import 4.code.options;
import 4.code.about;

class Header{

public void title(){

String fullTitle = "/o/ - Auto";

public void menu();

public void board();

public void goToBottom();

public void refresh(a);

class Thread extends Board{
public void /QTDDTOT/-QuestionsThatDon'tDeserveTheirOwnThreads(OP ThatMidEnginedGuy){

String fullTitle = "/QTDDTOT/ - Questions That Don't Deserve Their Own Threads";
int postNumber = "19823388";
String image = "Auto-11.jpg";
String date = "10/05/18(Fri)06:19:11";
String comment = "A dedicated thread for asking all your short automotive questions that necessarily don't need a thread of it's own. Also known as /SQT/.

>Some Tips -
1. Always Google your question before asking.
2. Look for General Threads or other Threads that regards your question's subject. Asking in generals would give you a more defined answer.

Also, look through the thread to find unanswered questions and answer them if you can.

Have a Great Day Ahead!

Previous Thread - >>19808180"

public void comments(){
if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19823644 && dateTime=="10/05/18(Fri)08:17:29")

"I found a big stockpile of 10w30 mobil 1 synthetic in my deceased father's stuff... At least $100 worth. It's at least 4 years old. Can I used old, sealed oil? It has been shielded from sun, extreme heat and cold but it is an unheated garage so it probably got below freezing.";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19823753 && dateTime=="10/05/18(Fri)08:52:36" && image=="Screenshot from 2018-10-05 06-51-01.png")

"I cracked my front bumper on my 09 Corolla recently. The bumper is cracked into two separate pieces
Duct tape or crazy glue?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19823831 && dateTime=="10/05/18(Fri)09:13:47")

"Hello, couple of days ago I bought my first car BMW1 1.6i 2007 with 89k on the clock. Car is in great shape, like new. I don't know when to maintain it, clutch oil and stuff like that, could you please give me some insight on what mileage should I maintain it etc. Thank you in advance.";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19823843 && dateTime=="10/05/18(Fri)09:18:14")


if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19823863 && dateTime=="10/05/18(Fri)09:24:24")

Bondo, sand, paint, clearcoat, buff"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19823869 && dateTime=="10/05/18(Fri)09:26:36")

"Checking out an unusually good condition 2000 Neon with 30k on it tomorrow. What are some ways of sound proofing the interior?";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19823870 && dateTime=="10/05/18(Fri)09:26:55")


if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19824087 && dateTime=="10/05/18(Fri)10:30:49")

"My buddy's Explorer Trac is gonna shit the bed pretty soon, and he preferably wants a full size sedan that's dirt cheap.
So between:
>mid 2000s Taurus/Sable (Duratec, Vulcan if a clean enough one shows up)
>Crown Vic
>early 2000s Impala/Malibu
these strike me as cars you'll either find grandmas getting rid off nowadays that were babied around, or white trash selling them to pay off their DUIs. Opinions on those and other suggestions? I phased out a 90s Camry or equivalent import since those will still typically be priced higher than that list."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19824099 && dateTime=="10/05/18(Fri)10:34:27")

Crown Vics are cheap, plentiful, and hard to kill. It’s a pretty solid choice if he doesn’t mind the gas mileage."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19824169 && dateTime=="10/05/18(Fri)10:55:45")

Your car comes with an user manual and a service schedule, you will find all your answers in there."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19824182 && dateTime=="10/05/18(Fri)10:58:47")





You know, the owner's manual for the car. The one in the glove box. It tells you the answers for all the questions you asked, plus more. You don't have it? Purchase it from your local dealer or get a used one off of ebay."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19824281 && dateTime=="10/05/18(Fri)11:21:11")

I never understood why people used different rims in the back. I thought it might make sense for drifting since you'd change the rear wheels more often than the front wheels, but what about the mazda in the picture? What purpose does it serve?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19824486 && dateTime=="10/05/18(Fri)12:16:29")

Probably aero or different brake cooling.
It's a race car, so there has got to be a valid reason to have that kind of rim at the front."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19824637 && dateTime=="10/05/18(Fri)13:00:01" && image=="IMG_20181003_122406.jpg")

"How long will it take for a cooling engine to 'burp' itself completely?

I recently put a new engine in my Miata, and burped the cooling system quickly before putting it to the road. Since then I've put 1000km on the new engine, and the coolant level is still dropping, albiet very slowly. I've topped it up about 5cm back up to the low line about 3 or 4 times now.

I don't see any telltale blown head gasket white smoke on a cold start. In the morning when getting out of the city at first I can see some steam when I get off the throttle in the first 5 mins, but it's cool now so I feel like that's normal condensation.

Pic unrelated, the retarded ride height setting this car had when I got it"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19824689 && dateTime=="10/05/18(Fri)13:14:11" && image=="absolutely appalling.jpg")

"Reposting from old thread to get a response.

On going brake problems.

Developed a brake squeak at low speed while going straight AND turning. Had my brakes resurfaced by a company because people told me that was the problem even though I felt no pulsing. Brake company glassed the rotors.

Bout and installed new brake rotors myself. I rebuilt caliper pins, boots, pads, and clips. Only thing I couldn't do was the caliper piston seal. Everything else is gold. Greased the fuck out of everything.

First drive and two issues pop up.

First, that brake squeal is still there. New parts didn't solve anything. Took brakes a part, everything seems legit, grease still there, wtf?

Second, my front right brake feels like it is grinding rather than making smooth contact. Checked the pins, the squish properly. Still grinding.

What do I do? How do I fix these issues?

In response to the dude about sanding the pads, I've done this. The problem I'm having is that it was on the old rotors with old pads and the new rotors with new pads, but just started about 1000 miles ago and is getting worse."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19824807 && dateTime=="10/05/18(Fri)13:47:44")

Have you tried swapping for road pads? Because track/race pad compounds make a shitload of noise and there is nothing you can do about it"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19824853 && dateTime=="10/05/18(Fri)13:59:18")

Yea, I threw my old pads on there that have like 70% left on them and same problem still existed. This also occurred with the last rotors with different brand pads than what I have on now with new rotors and new pads.

The squeaking is intermittent at low speed when the brake isn't pressed. Turning makes it worse. At high speed you don't hear it. Also, the pads don't make brake noise generally other than the grinding from the front right. It is only the squeaking from low speed travel."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19824887 && dateTime=="10/05/18(Fri)14:08:13" && image=="2085436726.jpg")

"Reposting from last thread, I know jack shit about cars. Had a run in with an invisible curb while turning in my shitbox. How much do you estimate this will cost? 99% sure it just needs to be painted over, the metal is a little bent but it's still solid and structurally sound. How hard would this be to fix myself? I've found DIY kits online for as little as $50 but I'd go more expensive so I don't get shit quality paint.
Sand > primer > paint > clear coat?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19825302 && dateTime=="10/05/18(Fri)16:16:04")

I don't know how to repair rocker damage, but after the physical damage is repaired, then you do the cosmetic repair the way you have it except I like to do wet sanding, and I clear the paint off the whole piece, not just the damaged area. Pray your car hasn't been in the sun long enough for the sun to bleach the color so you don't end up with two different colors of "cosmic green" or whatever color that is."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19825333 && dateTime=="10/05/18(Fri)16:26:18")

It's just black. I'm honestly not even worried about the slight bend in the metal, once it's all colored again I'm thinking it'll barely be noticeable if you're just looking at one side of the car. it just needs to look good enough for Uber's car 'inspection' because I wanna start doing that part time."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19825441 && dateTime=="10/05/18(Fri)17:00:04" && image=="fuckyeahbrazzerseducationday.jpg")

"The fucks the deal with XL or Xtra Load tires?

I want to buy these won't tires and they come in regular or Xtra Load. From what I read online XL tires have thicker sidewalls because they take on more air pressure, and thus are more expensive.

But my Costco is selling the XL tires for $200 less per set of 4.

What the fuck? These are Michelin Xi3's for whatever that's worth."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19825449 && dateTime=="10/05/18(Fri)17:02:17")

Maybe the dust cover on the back of the rotor? Maybe the wheel well covers that scrapes somewhere?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19825455 && dateTime=="10/05/18(Fri)17:04:34")

I'll check the dust covers again. Don't think it was the issue the first time I looked, though. Wheel well shows no signs of rubbing even when jacking up the wheel to simulate suspension compression."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19825810 && dateTime=="10/05/18(Fri)18:42:13")

">don't know how to drive manual
>buy a manual car
>drive it on the public roads

How am I not breaking some sort of law here?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19825831 && dateTime=="10/05/18(Fri)18:45:53")

Well it's not like you are going too far if you don't know how to drive a manual anyway"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19825850 && dateTime=="10/05/18(Fri)18:50:02")

Oh I'm making it move alright. It's more like
>this guy's gonna stall while making a U-turn and cause a 10 car pile up because he literally only touched a clutch for the first time yesterday"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19825932 && dateTime=="10/05/18(Fri)19:07:07")

Does the size start with a P or LT (P205/75 R16 vs LT265/75 R16)?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19825963 && dateTime=="10/05/18(Fri)19:13:48")


if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19826026 && dateTime=="10/05/18(Fri)19:26:14")

The tire can handle more weight, for example you have tires on a truck and didn't want to shell out extra for an LT tire that can handle the added weight in addition to the other requirements needed for an LT tire desigination.
>Does this apply to me yay or nay
It's not going to matter if you have these or non-XL tires, unless you need the extra weight capacity.

To be clear: If they are cheaper than the non-XL get them."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19826030 && dateTime=="10/05/18(Fri)19:27:32")

To follow up, the added weight is usually from hauling cargo."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19826204 && dateTime=="10/05/18(Fri)20:29:02")

"Hello /o/, I'm having an interest in modern rally and I would like to know if there is a possibility to watch WRC live or recorded videos of the events without having to pay those extra channels, etc";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19826276 && dateTime=="10/05/18(Fri)20:59:34")

Pls respond"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19826287 && dateTime=="10/05/18(Fri)21:03:56")

Yeah, it should be fine to use. Maybe change it a bit sooner than you otherwise would."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19827510 && dateTime=="10/06/18(Sat)04:06:08" && image=="1997_nissan_truck_xe_4wd_standard_cab_sb-pic-666870849990780209-1600x1200.png")

"family friend offered to sell me his old Nissan D21 4x4 with rebuilt tranny and engine for 1500$. It's a manual so I will have to learn to drive it. Should I jump on it? Pic related";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19827644 && dateTime=="10/06/18(Sat)04:53:02")

"Can an average Mercedes Benz look good in colors other than black, white or shades of gray?

Every time I see one in other colors it looks cheap, but Lexus and BMW's look fine in different colors"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19828526 && dateTime=="10/06/18(Sat)11:42:25")

"What is the legality (live in ky) of having led brake lights that pulse a couple times real fast before they stay lit. I love them, I first saw them on ambulances, they grab attention even if the ambulance is not in front of you. I have been rear ended 5 times, people just don't notice my firebird, and I'd love to integrate a set of these into my taillights. Not the gay ones that flash 10x for a full second before they light continuously, just a 2-3 pulses in 250ms or so.";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19828630 && dateTime=="10/06/18(Sat)12:12:08")

There are a lot of recent cars that have those flashing brake lights for emergency braking, so I guess there is no rule against having attention-grabbing pulsing brake lights."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19829024 && dateTime=="10/06/18(Sat)13:43:36")

There is a lack of law regulating that to my knowledge so technically legal
t. kentuckian"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19829057 && dateTime=="10/06/18(Sat)13:51:43")


if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19829091 && dateTime=="10/06/18(Sat)13:57:11")


They're technically illegal on a federal level unless they were specifically authorized for your specific car by NHTSA. Its why a lot of aftermarket parts have 'not for highway use' or 'for offroad use' written on them.

However local cops typically don't enforce said laws as they're really only concerned with them working at all."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19829119 && dateTime=="10/06/18(Sat)14:05:40" && image=="drive-3.jpg")

"What is he Driver fixing here?";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19829238 && dateTime=="10/06/18(Sat)14:30:56")

So they'll use it as an excuse to pull you over when they have nothing else."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19829242 && dateTime=="10/06/18(Sat)14:31:58")


if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19829249 && dateTime=="10/06/18(Sat)14:33:31")

No tyipically thats the secondary reason they pull you over.

Kind how you get dinged for tint, or in the case of resident trap Frosty drugs, when you were speeding or doing something stupid in the first place."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19829572 && dateTime=="10/06/18(Sat)15:52:56")

"I recently dropped my torque converter
How fucked could it be?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19829602 && dateTime=="10/06/18(Sat)16:00:07" && image=="nozzle.jpg")

"How do I unclog my water nozzles? They've been sitting without use for two years, tried using a needle but it was only a temporary fix, the nozzles would (30 seconds later) stop spraying again.
Does soaking them in vinegar work?
Please help, I don't want to pay for new ones just because the old ones are clogged with shit."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19829663 && dateTime=="10/06/18(Sat)16:19:46")

"My car has a squeaking noise from the back when it's cold and moving slowly in a straight line, and after it warms up the same noise happens sometimes while turning. Could it be the rear differential?";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19829716 && dateTime=="10/06/18(Sat)16:33:30")

"Over 5700 RPM my engine makes a metallic ringing noise.
Also, after driving it hard and revving it hard, it has trouble keeping oil pressure. When warm and kept at low revs, oil pressure reads normally (25-30 psi at idle) When revved hard, it'll be down to 7-15 PSI and twitch around between those numbers (When it does this I pull over and wait 10-15 minutes) and under load pressure is pegged between 30-35 psi.

I'm assuming it's the crank bearings going and I should probably save up for a new engine. There is no "knock" and the oil is to the high end of the hash marks on the dipstick. It doesn't burn oil."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19830007 && dateTime=="10/06/18(Sat)17:47:00")

Blow compressed air in them, use vinegar if it fails"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19830023 && dateTime=="10/06/18(Sat)17:52:05" && image=="1482258795509.gif")

"I've got 1000 dollars. What sort of car should I be looking for on that sort of 24 hours of lemons tier budget? I've considered mopeds but winters here are cold, and for longer distances a moped isn't viable.
Local CL:"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19830029 && dateTime=="10/06/18(Sat)17:53:43")

Try taking them off and flushing the lines out. Just a guess."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19830032 && dateTime=="10/06/18(Sat)17:54:58")

>use vinegar if it fails
I guess I'll try this. Thanks anon."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19830117 && dateTime=="10/06/18(Sat)18:19:51")

My nozzles get clogged every few months, I guess tap water around here is not the purest you can find. Regardless, I use to blow 10bars of compressed air in them and that's enough to clear them completely.

Easy, takes less than a minute and you don't have to remove anything from the car. Try that if you have pressurised air available"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19830126 && dateTime=="10/06/18(Sat)18:20:32")

hell yes"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19830128 && dateTime=="10/06/18(Sat)18:21:04")

>Try that if you have pressurised air available
I don't, it's apparently illegal in my country for some stupid reason."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19830152 && dateTime=="10/06/18(Sat)18:28:45")


Not a lot of choices..."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19830158 && dateTime=="10/06/18(Sat)18:30:16")

>air under pressure is illegal
Does England really?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19830168 && dateTime=="10/06/18(Sat)18:31:36")

Some nice picks, thanks anon. Yeah, the budget and location both make things harder."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19830187 && dateTime=="10/06/18(Sat)18:36:43")

I live in the middle east."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19830195 && dateTime=="10/06/18(Sat)18:37:48")

"Will jb weld hold an actuator onto a compressor housing?";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19830350 && dateTime=="10/06/18(Sat)19:17:52")

Well, I mean, you can use an air gun from any fuel station that lets you blow air into your tires"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19830384 && dateTime=="10/06/18(Sat)19:26:24")

"What’s stopping me from turbo charging a 3.5L v6 Camry?
>already pretty fast for a soccer mom car
>giving it more air/better intake/better inter cooler/more open exhaust would= a good giglgle machine, right??"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19830445 && dateTime=="10/06/18(Sat)19:49:05")


if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19830481 && dateTime=="10/06/18(Sat)20:03:15")

England might have a majority muslim population but I still don't think it's considered the Middle East."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19830492 && dateTime=="10/06/18(Sat)20:06:01")

>What’s stopping me from turbo charging a 3.5L v6 Camry?
Money, knowledge, experience, ability to start a project or see it through to successful completion... not to mention your parents probably wouldn't let you."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19830542 && dateTime=="10/06/18(Sat)20:21:55")

Any ideas then?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19830558 && dateTime=="10/06/18(Sat)20:28:43")

Not him but might be a bad wheel bearing. Might be coming from the brakes too."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19830563 && dateTime=="10/06/18(Sat)20:31:21")

Brake hanging, dust shield bent, rock caught somewhere, heat shield rubbing on drive shaft, wheel bearing starting to go bad"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19830670 && dateTime=="10/06/18(Sat)21:03:32")

"Is it true civilians in Iran are only allowed a max of 125cc motorcycles? Wanna go there one day and ride a bike through the entire country, but something that small might be annoying as fuck";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19831131 && dateTime=="10/06/18(Sat)23:37:14")

"Stupid question
I want to get better speakers in my car.
Nothing high end, just something to make it sound not like my current speakers do. For reference I'm talking about a 2011 ES350
Question is, if I get new speakers, is the stock wiring in it adequate for a better system(not getting a sub, just speakers). Or will I likely have to put new cable in?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19831143 && dateTime=="10/06/18(Sat)23:39:53")

Being arrested for espionage is a lot more annoying anon."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19831176 && dateTime=="10/06/18(Sat)23:52:53")

Stock wiring is adequate"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19831180 && dateTime=="10/06/18(Sat)23:54:58")

Stock wiring is adequate but speakers don't usually make a huge difference. An amp will make a huge difference."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19831184 && dateTime=="10/06/18(Sat)23:56:37")

Do aftermarket headunits act as amps? Or will I have to get a separate amp for quality speakers?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19831189 && dateTime=="10/06/18(Sat)23:58:04")

While they have more stock power than they did decades ago, they're still pretty inadequate for a proper system."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19831204 && dateTime=="10/07/18(Sun)00:03:03")

No they don't. A few might but they would be more expensive obviously. Usually aftermarket headunits can put out like 15 watts rms per channel I think? Been a while since I've done any of this.

You don't have to get an amp but unless you have a good ear for tone you'll hardly notice the difference between your stock speakers and good aftermarket ones. Adding an amp to the system is a gamechanger. You could get a powered subwoofer too and just keep the volume on it down to not sound like a hooligan.
To take advantage of all that you would need an aftermarket head unit. It all starts getting expensive. Best bang for your buck, on a limited budget, is probably just get an amp to power your existing speakers."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19831225 && dateTime=="10/07/18(Sun)00:11:27")

I see. Thanks for the insight anon"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19831363 && dateTime=="10/07/18(Sun)01:12:35")

I beg to differ here. Aftermarket speakers almost always sound better than stock. I've never replaced stock speakers and thought it wasn't worthwhile. As a matter of fact, I usually changed out my deck first, then tried to convince myself the stock speakers would be alright, but that was never the case. I sure as hell wouldn't just add an amp to a totally stock system. You'd end running speaker level inputs to the amp creating a nightmare of tracking down noise. Not to mention, factory speakers are usually rated below (15w) what an aftermarket deck puts out. This is all assuming you don't have a super premium sound system, even then dealing with the proprietary shit they have going on is another nightmare."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19831475 && dateTime=="10/07/18(Sun)02:09:30" && image=="1538579352822.jpg")

"How hard would it be for a person who has driven automatics for the past 3 years to learn manual?";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19831502 && dateTime=="10/07/18(Sun)02:22:20")

Same as most of us here.

A day of learning the clutch, a month of regular driving to get used to it."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19831629 && dateTime=="10/07/18(Sun)03:37:24")

"So I'm learning how to drive stick on a 2002 Mustang GT (probably the 1st mistake) and I'm noticing it's very twitchy and jerky when starting on 1st and gradually less twitchy when changing to 2nd and 3rd. Is that normal due to the cable clutch, am I driving it wrong (most likely answer) or is something wrong? It is a very old car with a lot of miles (213k).

Also I naturally stalled it a few times driving in a place with a lot of stop signs on a very steep road. My natural inclination is to withdraw the clutch slowly, but it seemed to work better when I gave it the beans and dumped the clutch while dropping the E-brake. What's the ideal method of overcoming a stop on a 15%+ grade with my car?
Am I doing it more or less right but just need more practice? Will it survive this abuse?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19831678 && dateTime=="10/07/18(Sun)04:14:11")

O-Oy Vey anon, what makes you think I would be arrested for espionage haha, I am but a simple tourist."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19831685 && dateTime=="10/07/18(Sun)04:16:39")

What >>19831502 said, along with one other thing: You'll learn to properly drive a manual aboouuut a week after you first stall it infront of an embarrassing number of people at an intersection.
The healthy dose of shame that brings is the #1 motivator to get your shit together."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19831758 && dateTime=="10/07/18(Sun)04:59:01")

"What's the thing called where your monthly installments drop as the cars value depreciates?";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19831880 && dateTime=="10/07/18(Sun)06:06:44")

"I'm starting out my driving lessons today (at the age of 22 because I was a lazy dick) and while I might be thinking ahead a bit too much, I have a question.
I've heard from someone that it's mechanically speaking bad for a car to be used less than every day, can anyone confirm or say that's bullshit?
I don't have a lot of long distance travel in my near future, I'm hoping to start uni soon in a different city but I'll live close by, so any driving I would do (excluding driving somewhere to hang out with friends, because that is admittedly pretty rare) would be before and after the weekend, so once a week on average excluding non-regular drives, an hour-ish either way.
IS there a point in getting a car in that case?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19831897 && dateTime=="10/07/18(Sun)06:18:36")

"Are coilovers and other hard suspensions actually as bad and rough as people claim? I've only ever driven my truck which is only shocks up front and leaf springs in the back and I've never felt like it was anything bad at all. Does it get much worse?";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19831910 && dateTime=="10/07/18(Sun)06:28:25")

>mechanically speaking bad for a car to be used less than every day,
Who said that lmao
Its generally better to start it less often but drive it for longer than start it like 4 times a day for 15 minutes to go to the shop and back"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19832041 && dateTime=="10/07/18(Sun)07:53:14")

Pls respond"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19832120 && dateTime=="10/07/18(Sun)08:31:33")

"how much should i pay for a clean 1997 toyota t100 4x4? is 4k too much";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19832145 && dateTime=="10/07/18(Sun)08:44:04")

Really depends on the roads around you. If you have interstates/highways made from concrete, you can start feeling the seams. Most of the time my car is fine around town, but one interstate was thrown together quick as shit, and the bumps/irregularities are really obvious. Its annoying enough that I will drive my other car if I need to go on that interstate."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19832216 && dateTime=="10/07/18(Sun)09:07:59")

10 years on automatic and just started learning manual myself. There's one thing nobody ever fucking tells you because all of the youtube videos and blog guides were made by people who were taught to drive on manuals: throttle control is totally different. In an automatic the gas pedal controls both throttle and power. Want to go faster, you push harder on the gas. If you pay attention to your car you also associate pushing harder on the gas with shifting up a gear because it happens automatically, and letting off the gas with shifting down a gear. You also have a different throttle point for each road speed. Want to hold it at 70mph, you keep the throttle pressed down deeper than it was at 60mph, and so on. In a manual it's different. Unless you're revving it, the gas pedal really only has one point you have to hold it at. You don't need to give the gas any more pressure to drive at 70mph than you do at 20mph, because it's the gears and clutch controlling the power now. In the right gear, the engine WANTS to be traveling at the right road speed, and all you need to do is give it enough gas to overcome friction losses.

Nobody ever told me that, and I kept giving it too much gas at all the wrong points, and if I needed more power because the engine was about to stall I went for the gas pedal. I would give it too much gas when shifting up a gear, not enough gas when shifting down a gear, and keep fucking changing the amount of gas I was giving it when taking off in 1st gear. Every time I stalled I knew it was happening and tried to give it more gas, which was wrong. You give it constant, unchanging gas, and use the clutch to give it power. If you have to take off from a stop aggressively, like making a left turn to merge into traffic, you hold the gas a little deeper but still steady and unchanging, and 100% of the change in car motion between stop and fully moving is done with the clutch and the clutch alone."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19832287 && dateTime=="10/07/18(Sun)09:36:00")


if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19832300 && dateTime=="10/07/18(Sun)09:39:01" && image=="Ass band.jpg")

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19832338 && dateTime=="10/07/18(Sun)09:48:20")

You give terrible advice for operating a M/T vehicle. You 100% need to use the throttle in concert with the clutch. If it were like you said, there would be a lever on the dash to set the throttle, like a riding lawn mower."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19832384 && dateTime=="10/07/18(Sun)09:58:17")

Put a video on youtube and link it here and we'll tell you if you're doing it wrong. Otherwise it's just guessing. Old clutches are usually smoother, but your cable could he frayed or dirty or something."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19832392 && dateTime=="10/07/18(Sun)10:01:56")

Sounds about right. They're not nearly as desireable as the Tacoma because there's not much offroad support for them and they're just not as good offroad but they're still good trucks."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19832394 && dateTime=="10/07/18(Sun)10:03:30")

What in the hell are you talking about?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19832417 && dateTime=="10/07/18(Sun)10:10:06")

See? People who didn't start on automatics and drive on them for years have no idea."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19832425 && dateTime=="10/07/18(Sun)10:14:01")


if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19832438 && dateTime=="10/07/18(Sun)10:18:28")

All good points. If you're working with the stock stereo system that can complicate things, for example I have a car that has a built in little shitty Bose amplifier that I would have to bypass if I wanted to put my own amp in.
I think you tend to lose bass with good aftermarket speakers, but you gain the highs. They probably figure you'll have a subwoofer for the lows. If you don't have one, it can sound less full than stock speakers.
I feel that sending a strong and clean signal to shitty speakers will give better results than sending a shitty weak signal to good speakers. You can actually go a fair amount over rated power to the speakers with a good amp before blowing the speakers out, whereas just cranking up the volume from the stock stereo can blow out good speakers. That's where I was coming from, and you can always upgrade the speakers later.
Of course the best course of action would be to upgrade everything all at once but that's a lot of dough.

To the guy who posted the question: make sure impedence matches across anything you swap out. If you just upgrade the stock speakers make sure your new speakers have the same impedence (4 Ohms or whatever it may be). You can pop a speaker out and look on the back of the magnet and it will tell you."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19832440 && dateTime=="10/07/18(Sun)10:18:36")

You will be replacing your clutch every 10k miles if you drive like this. No one has a clue, because you're doing it wrong and it's perplexing how you are actually driving a stick doing this.

Your explanation above would make sense for a CVT and only a CVT."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19832455 && dateTime=="10/07/18(Sun)10:22:02")

Literally how?
>don't press the gas when upshifting
>blip the gas when downshifting
That's called rev matching.
>don't constantly press the throttle to go faster when you should be upshifting instead
That's called driving efficiently.
>don't gun the gas when starting from 1st
That's called not stalling."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19832462 && dateTime=="10/07/18(Sun)10:24:59")

I did start on automatic. I'm guessing the car you're driving now has a tiny anemic engine that gives 100% throttle at like 40% pedal travel otherwise I have no idea how you would come to these conclusions.
Only thing I agree with is that when I start off in 1st gear in a manual I keep the throttle fairly steady and use the clutch to modulate how fast I take off; seems to be smoother to focus on the clutch instead of the throttle."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19832473 && dateTime=="10/07/18(Sun)10:29:12")

"Looking to buy a car, in the past I've just bought used from my family members but I've got a job now and want to get something a bit better than an old hand me down. The criteria I'm looking at:

1. As low/cheap maintenance as possible (so probably Japanese)
2. Decent/good gas mileage
3. Modern (Less than 5 years old, newer is better)
4. Not too tiny (I'm tall, and so are my friends/family)
5. Within a ~$10,000 price tag. I could stretch this a bit, maybe to ~$15,000 if I have to but I'd prefer a bit less if it's possible.

Any recommendations? I'm thinking of just going with a Honda Accord or something."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19832482 && dateTime=="10/07/18(Sun)10:32:48")

The car shifts for you in an A/T. You still have to manage the gas pedal in a M/T, but you also have to do the gear changes too.

>You give it constant, unchanging gas, and use the clutch to give it power
>You don't need to give the gas any more pressure to drive at 70mph than you do at 20mph
>100% of the change in car motion between stop and fully moving is done with the clutch and the clutch alone
>don't gun the gas when starting from 1st
>That's called not stalling

You're a poor driver and shouldn't be giving any advice."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19832495 && dateTime=="10/07/18(Sun)10:36:31")

You're not listening to me, I didn't say you don't manage the gas pedal at all. I said the gas pedal management is totally different."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19832499 && dateTime=="10/07/18(Sun)10:37:43")

Bugatti Veyron
Ford Pinto
Pogo stick
Cougar with a saddle"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19832501 && dateTime=="10/07/18(Sun)10:39:05")

Those are your quotes, buddy. You don't know what you're doing so stop pretending."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19832522 && dateTime=="10/07/18(Sun)10:47:15")

You're telling me when you start from 1st gear standstill you're not
>giving constant steady gas
>releasing the clutch steadily

But instead are
>gunning the gas
>dumping the clutch"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19832523 && dateTime=="10/07/18(Sun)10:47:23")

Mazda 6
Good luck finding a 5 year old Accord for 10k."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19832534 && dateTime=="10/07/18(Sun)10:50:15")

I could bump the price a bit. I mean obviously cheaper is better but if it's going to last I don't have a problem spending a bit more. I could drop $15k cash no problem and then maybe get a loan on top of that."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19832557 && dateTime=="10/07/18(Sun)10:58:52")

>If you pay attention to your car you also associate pushing harder on the gas with shifting up a gear because it happens automatically,

That's down shifting

> Unless you're revving it, the gas pedal really only has one point you have to hold it at.


>and 100% of the change in car motion between stop and fully moving is done with the clutch and the clutch alone.

Jesus Christ you're fucking retarded.

Seriously just fuck off."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19832565 && dateTime=="10/07/18(Sun)11:01:43")

No, don't put words in my mouth. I know how to drive a M/T and an A/T, as a matter of fact I own one of each type. I'm not going to argue the finer points of usage with someone who has shown he doesn't know his ass from a hole in the wall when it comes to stick shifts."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19832614 && dateTime=="10/07/18(Sun)11:16:52")

I still haven't seen either of you offer anything contrary but sperg outs."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19832668 && dateTime=="10/07/18(Sun)11:35:48")

>sperg outs
You live in your own little world, don't you? I assume you don't bother to read anything that doesn't totally agree with your POV or spoon feed you instructions like an child."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19832845 && dateTime=="10/07/18(Sun)12:27:44")

FFS I guess I have to write a sperg novel for your dumbass.
At a standstill to properly start off in a manual, you push the clutch in and shift into first. To start moving You smoothly let the clutch out, and at the same moment you start pressing on the gas, IE your left foot should be coming up as your right foot goes down in one smooth motion; by the time you hit the bite point with your left foot, your right foot should be anywhere to 1/8 or 1/4 throttle pressed on the acclerator, this whole process should take less than a second to accomplish.
ONCE you've let the clutch pedal out you press the accelerator pedal more to about half throttle to gain decent acceleration, up to about 15 to 20 MPH.
You want a decent but not overly sharp acceleration becuase the longer you're accelerating the more fuel you're burning. The goal is to get to cruising speed and put as little throttle on but while staying in the torque band to keep you at that speed whilst not lugging the engine
So now you want to shift to second; this process is similiar to first but not quite as you're still in low gear and the engine can be jerky if not finessed: let off the accelerator, push the clutch in to shift to second, again let the clutch out, give it a little bit of throttle (~1/8) hit bite point push the acclerator to 1/4 to a half. get to about 25-35 mph.
Now shifting to third is easier. Let off accelerator, Simply push the clutch in shift to third, let clutch back out push back on the accelerator to about 1/4-1/2 after letting the clutch out, get it it to about 40 then repeat the process to 4th, and then at 50-60 mph 5th and 6th, til your at crusing speed.
If your cruising speed is at 40 -50 then its perfectly fine to shift into 5th and stay there modulating your throttle from 0 to a 1/2 to compenate for slight inclines, declines and speed differences in traffic.

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19832851 && dateTime=="10/07/18(Sun)12:29:17")

Meant to respond to >>19832614 not >>19832668


If you need to sharply accelerate or you encounter a steep hill and 5th is not giving you enough torque to maintain your speed, you downshift, rev match if you want by blipping the throttle, shift it down to 4th, and if thats not enough blip the throttle again and downshift into 3rd to maintain your speed."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19832962 && dateTime=="10/07/18(Sun)12:54:06")

"should i fix my EVAP leak on my 05 civic lx ASAP or leave it for later when i have more money?";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19833159 && dateTime=="10/07/18(Sun)13:38:54")

So long as its not causing a vacuum leak you should be good."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19833456 && dateTime=="10/07/18(Sun)14:51:15")

"I'm stupid, please help
I know that when a turn signal is out that it will click fast
But when I checked my turn signals they were both working but doing the fast clicking

Should I check my tail lights or something?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19833493 && dateTime=="10/07/18(Sun)14:58:24")

They will also do that when they're about to go out but still technically working. If it's not too much work, I'd just shotgun new bulbs at it and see if it fixes it, they're not expensive."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19833499 && dateTime=="10/07/18(Sun)14:59:45")

Okay, I'll replace them both and see if that alleviates the situation"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19833509 && dateTime=="10/07/18(Sun)15:01:47")

If it doesn't fix it, the next thing I'd look at is the flasher relay. It's a little black box under the dash somewhere, turn on the hazards and listen for the clicking to find it. They're usually fairly universal but I'd check on Rockauto to make sure first."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19833510 && dateTime=="10/07/18(Sun)15:02:27")

*Turn on the turn signal, not the hazards. Some cars have a separate flasher for the hazards"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19833756 && dateTime=="10/07/18(Sun)16:00:12" && image=="1383477561273.jpg")

Cunningham's Law, faggot. You just fell for my bait. I was [spoiler]fishing for advice all along and just spent 2 hours on the road putting yours into practice. It substantially improved my starts.[/spoiler]"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19833911 && dateTime=="10/07/18(Sun)16:35:25" && image=="State of this guy.jpg")

>still being this assblasted
>trying to save face
>It was Cunningham's Law
>using spoilers on any board other than /tv/
What a sad piece of shit you are, anon."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19833943 && dateTime=="10/07/18(Sun)16:46:41")

What the fuck is the point of spoilers if none of the boards support them anyways?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19833950 && dateTime=="10/07/18(Sun)16:49:34")

They're supported on boards where spoilers can actually be spoilers."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19834011 && dateTime=="10/07/18(Sun)17:07:31")

The lower the gear, the more it's going to magnify any shifting errors or rpm mismatches, no matter how small."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19834057 && dateTime=="10/07/18(Sun)17:16:54" && image=="Coffee.jpg")

"2000 Honda Civic LX. Transmission is bucking a little with an occasional shift into second. Sometimes reverse kicks, too. Transmission fluid is still clear pink and it is just touching the "full" line.

Is there anything I can do to fix this without getting the transmission serviced? 128k on the engine/tranny."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19834489 && dateTime=="10/07/18(Sun)19:02:28")

Manual or Auto?

If manual it sounds clutch related."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19834512 && dateTime=="10/07/18(Sun)19:09:13")

"Is it true in a NASCAR race, the person in front isnt necessarily in first place? At least not until the end of the race?";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19834545 && dateTime=="10/07/18(Sun)19:19:02")

That's what all foreigners end up getting arrested for in Iran.

>it's very twitchy and jerky when starting on 1st and gradually less twitchy when changing to 2nd and 3rd. Is that normal

Yes its normal as anon >>19834011 said, the lower the gear the more amplified any mistakes will seem, that being said
you're either not smoothly using the clutch, taking too long to shift, shifting way too high in the rev range or some combination thereof

As for your hill starts it sounds like you're not comfortable with the bite point on your clutch, knowing exactly where it is will tell you exactly when you need to give it gas, but bear in mind that even on steep slopes you may chirp the tires to get enough momentum to over come the grade. The parking brake method is good for beginners but its not optimal

My suggestion is this: If you haven't already, start practicing getting the car moving without using gas at all on a flat surface; this will teach you the finesse of knowing where the bite point is, just don't use this trick long term as can and will burn your clutch, as you get better you can add gas and learn to accelerate more quickly which teaches you how to start on hills."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19834615 && dateTime=="10/07/18(Sun)19:37:02")

Auto, sorry. Just a commuter."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19834619 && dateTime=="10/07/18(Sun)19:38:03")

You have to complete your laps. Sometimes pit-stops will put you behind or in front of competition."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19834777 && dateTime=="10/07/18(Sun)20:22:17")

Right, but lets say the guy in first goes into the pits, he loses his first place position. But then when the others go to the pits, he may be back in first...but that doesnt necessarily mean he is out in front of all the cars...right?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19834835 && dateTime=="10/07/18(Sun)20:34:15" && image=="received_322703405172422.jpg")

"Today, I was cruising 80 on the interstate in 5th gear. My transmission tunnel started smoking, so my first thought was to turn off the car, I pulled over and my radiator cracked and spewed coolant everywhere.
Anyways I was wondering if I could have fucked anything up by just turning the car off there. I didn't realize I didn't push in the clutch and it was still in gear until I was parked. Car is currently on the side of the highway and I haven't tried driving it since"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19835074 && dateTime=="10/07/18(Sun)21:27:03")

nah youre fine."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19835109 && dateTime=="10/07/18(Sun)21:34:24")

Yes. If he is in first and pits in, then goes back out while everyone else goes in, assuming everyone is on lap 200, he is once again in first. Several strategies include tire and fuel management to eek out 1-2 laps over a competitor before going in for a refuel or tire swap. Other strats are to go all out while someone pits in hoping to make up a couple seconds a lap over someone who may be doing a management strategy, hoping that the cost of fuel and tires will pay off."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19835511 && dateTime=="10/07/18(Sun)23:18:37" && image=="t4422clrvff11.jpg")

"If I buy a catback exhaust for my car, what all will need to be done to the car? Is it just bolt on or will I need to get parts fabbed up or have the car tuned?

Also, is $542 too much for a magnaflow catback? I can't seem to find it any cheaper for my car because its a literally who car that nobody wants (toyota matrix xrs)"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19835542 && dateTime=="10/07/18(Sun)23:26:30" && image=="1524906416941.gif")

"Want to attach a chainsaw engine to a bike but I don't know whether to post about it on /n/, /diy/, or /o/";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19835591 && dateTime=="10/07/18(Sun)23:46:21")

Literally taking buying just a muffler and cat and getting and exhaust shop to do the pipe work for you will be cheaper.

The only reason to get a full exhaust kit is if your looking to actually make significant hp gains because you've maxed out the gains you can make with the engine and intake.

Otherwise all you're getting for running a new exhaust is sound improvement."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19835644 && dateTime=="10/07/18(Sun)23:59:19" && image=="image0-31.jpg")

"Given these choices which would you rather get?
>clapped out 92 Civic VX hatch with 230k+ miles but all new parts and a thick stack of receipts, LOTS of rust holes but have been sprayed with rust inhibitor for $1300
>91 Miata with about 150k with a 1.8 swap and a bunch of ebay parts (rotors, led lights, cosmetic rice, loud shit exhaust) with rust but not as much as the Honda
>98 celica gt vert with 146k, automatic and completely stock, was in a rear end collision and the back is fucked up but the frame is straight and it runs just fine for $2500

I'm leaning towards the celica because it's the least shitty one but the other options are much more fun to drive"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19835649 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)00:00:58" && image=="642-15759.jpg")

It should just bolt right in if it's like this though right? I don't want to have to take it to a shop"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19835661 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)00:05:30")

Yeah it will bolt right in, and its your money so."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19835667 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)00:07:29")

Have you tried looking up plans for a two stroke bike conversion? Do you have all the other parts like clutch/throttle cables/ Chain and sprocket/ Clutch cable?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19835717 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)00:36:14")

I have 4 bikes I can take parts from
This looks like one of the better designs I've seen
Do you know of a more stable way to do it without cutting off the pedals?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19835750 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)00:50:21")


Most of the designs I see using a two stroke are using something akin to this.

And using a chain and sprocket will be much more efficient, than the friction drive he has. That also looks extremely unbalanced and I wouldn't be surprised the bike leans to the right while being ridden."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19835785 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)01:01:47" && image=="YES.jpg")

>When you see a 787B"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19835929 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)01:38:20")

Would they sell those sprockets in a bike store or a home depot or someplace similar, or would I have to get them online?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19835981 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)02:01:01")

I have been meaning to get a new exhaust system, I know it connects to the end of the headers, but I don't know if it runs the length of the car, does anyone know what specs to look at or could tell me?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19836068 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)02:44:21" && image=="serveimage(136).jpg")

"Yuropoor here, have a mk 4 golf now but it's a piece of shit. I'm thinking of getting a Mazda 3/6 from around 2005-2008. Is it a good choice? I know they're probe to rust but they don't salt streets here much. Thinking of spending 3-4k yuro. I noticed 6 are cheaper usually but I'd rather have a 3 cause it's smaller and it'd be just my 2nd car.";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19836139 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)03:20:46")

"18 or 19 inch wheels?";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19836154 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)03:27:28")

>mk 4 golf now but it's a piece of shit
What makes you think a mazda 3 would be any differrent its the same class
Go for 1 series if you want a hatchback its actually fun with it being RWD and isnt a total POS
Otherwise generally go for something that was and still is a higher class of a vehicle and mazda arent that reliable from my experience"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19836172 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)03:33:33")

What else would you suggest? I think a 3 would definitely be better than this mk4, shit just keeps breaking. I just want something relatively cheap but reliable that'll last me a few years. Tbh this 1.6 mk4 would've been okay if it was a little more powerful and didn't break shit left and right so I don't really have high standards for a "fun to drive" car."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19836206 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)03:49:44")

Whatever you buy will break its a 10-13 year old car after all
As I said if you want a hatchback get a 1 series a 120d is pretty respectable in terms of power and fuel economy is pretty good too
I would also look at a clk270cdi those are pretty bulletproof in terms of drivetrain and suspension but other parts not that reliable
Maybe a 330d too if you want to go fast? You have to be more specific"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19836224 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)04:01:52")

Aren't BMWs terribly expensive to fix if things go wrong? I'm poor so I don't want to pay out my ass when I need something done, I never even considered BMW. Like I said, I don't need anything in higher class, just something fairly reliable and cheap enough for me. Would be great if it was more powerful than this 1.6 mk4 but it's not really a necessity. I don't know much about cars but because of pretty shitty experience with this vag, I thought a jap car would be a better idea."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19836265 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)04:33:04")

I’m getting my first full time job soon and want to finance a newer daily so I can throw money at my shitbox in peace.
I’ll be working full time at about 12/hour so I’m looking at 1,600 dollars a month minimum. I was told it was best to have a job for ~6 months before approaching banks about loans so they know I can pay them, so my down payment would be anywhere from 2-5k.
I have no credit history so I expect to get reamed in interest (20% seems plausible). Using all this information what budget would you give me and what cars would you suggest? I kind of wanted a GT86 but they’re pretty steady at 30k in my area which puts them at the end of my budget, and desu I’d rather finance a Scion with 50,000 miles for 1/3rd of the price."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19836368 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)05:36:50")

Its only a matter if you have interest in your car
My first car was a 2001 mercedes C-class which according to anyone who hasnt owned one is the most unreliable piece of shit car but in the end my friend with a "reliable" shitbox ended up paying more in repairs than I did mainly because I wrenched on my own car and I bought mainly 2nd hand parts where it could be done
Older BMWs are pretty quirky but there is so much info out there and so many totales ones that parts are like napkins
My friend had a mazda 3 from same year as the one you are looking at and he cant win this fight with his DPF filter for 2 years now it constanlty fucks with him and again he paid more in repairs for that alone than I did on my merc for a year but his car was plastic hell inside while my merc was comfy quiet and full of nice touches but I sold it for a BMW cus I wanted to go fast"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19836505 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)07:03:09")

"What's a good rule of thumb for how many miles a used car should have on the meter? I've seen 10 000 miles per year, is that reasonable?";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19836506 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)07:04:03")

"i'm looking at buying a toyota t100 truck. the guy said everything is fine except a pressure sensor went out so you have to pump the gas a couple of times before you try to start it in the afternoon but it cranks up fine in the morning.

what pressure sensor is this dude talking about and how hard would it be for me to replace?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19836511 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)07:05:13")

the average is like 14k miles per year or some shit"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19836527 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)07:17:09")

So a 2011 Mazda3 with 60 000 miles is a pretty low mileage? I'm a Yuro though and not a burger and we probably drive a lot fewer miles per year on average."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19836548 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)07:25:12" && image=="12715486_944895298935516_5997099765386841691_n.jpg")

I bought a fucking yacht (LS400) and its the biggest car I have had. I have to admit, I struggle to park the thing. I got a new head unit and it came with a reversing I install it? Or does that make me a retard?"

if(The poster currently known as A freaking Audi && title=="" && postNumber==19836559 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)07:32:36")

Love me some reverse camera. Gets you within inches of the curb or other vehicle if you want to.

No shame in your game for adding features that makes your life easier."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19836933 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)10:30:49")

A little less than average yes"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19836937 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)10:33:12")

Get a 3k miata or civic, you can't afford a newer car. Work on building your credit, sure, but it doesn't have to cost you money."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19836955 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)10:40:35")

I would call the site that sells it or the manufacturer but judging from the picture it looks like it bolts up to the downpipe on one end and runs to the back of the car but you still need a muffler. That thing at the back looks like a resonator not a muffler.
For best results you should ask them if they have an exhaust manifold, downpipe amd muffler that they recommend with it, if you're going for power.
Be aware this cat will make it harder to pass emissions."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19836962 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)10:43:41")

/diy/ is the only board with people who know anything about anything. /o/ is for shitposting."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19836974 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)10:49:27")

Where I live we don't have to test our cars for emissions after they are produced, could I run this without a muffler?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19837034 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)11:07:07" && image=="1482442452113.jpg")

They never answer my questions though
You guys always do"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19837357 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)12:33:00")

>never touched an exhaust system component
It'll bolt right in, no problem."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19837630 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)13:38:05")

"Do I need to change my oil + filter even though my car has only done ~500 miles since it was changed last October?

It's been undriven for most of the time because it was facing electrical gremlins, so it was off the road. It's been intermittently driven around since, but not enough to warrant a change based on mileage."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19837724 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)13:58:49")

"Options for decently reliable somewhat fun 1 year daily beater for around 1k eurocucks?";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19837735 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)14:02:56")

E36 or E46, depending on which is cheaper.
>Abundance of parts
>Perfect yuro vibes
Just please, don't get something like a 5 series diesel - half of us yuropeans already have one"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19837995 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)15:08:20")

yes but it would be pretty loud"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19838006 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)15:10:39")

I do once a year on my low mileage cars but you can probably go longer. It's good to at least get the engine nice and hot once in a while to get the water condensation out of the oil (leaves as steam through the pcv)."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19838008 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)15:12:19")

"Should I drain the atf from my torque converter or nah? I got a barrel of atf so it's not like it'd be a waste";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19838072 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)15:25:49")

"i had steering wheel vibration at 70mph for about 100 miles total of driving, in the past couple of days it's slowly gone away and is now back to normal. as far as i'm concerned my car is in great mechanical health, first thing i did was check my tires and they were all at pressure during this period, brakes, suspension, steering rack are all fine.

is my car having mood swings or am i hallucinating because of a brain tumor?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19838107 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)15:38:30")

Have you driven on the same road you experienced the steering wheel vibration on since? It could have been the road being shitty"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19838148 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)15:47:34")

"what is the absolute best manual RWD car you can get for under $10k right now?
not looking for speed, comfort, utility or fuel economy, just plain and simple driving experience
I already have an econobox for long trips/daily driving, I want something fun to goof off with on weekends"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19838155 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)15:48:55" && image=="e87 interior.jpg")


if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19838160 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)15:50:35" && image=="130i.jpg")

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19838164 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)15:53:45")

only manuals I can find near me are close to $20k at 80k miles
besides, BMWs generally are too expensive to own for my purposes"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19838186 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)15:59:44")

maybe a 125i then?
or just get a miata"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19838217 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)16:06:08")

"Does removing a catalytic converter improve airflow? And are yearly smog tests/emissions tests a thing outside of California?";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19838224 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)16:07:59")

yes and yes, depending on the state
from what I understand most people who do cat deletes put them back in for inspections"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19838227 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)16:08:13")

I just read about it today
it does but its not really significant unless you aim for big HP/tork gains"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19838231 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)16:09:36")

yeah, same 6 miles of the same roads over those 100 miles, i should've been clearer, this has been over many weeks. the road hasn't changed at all and it was always only at 70~"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19838239 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)16:12:19")

is a Miata still the best option?
what about Nissan, or older American cars?
there's got to be something more interesting than a Miata out there"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19838246 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)16:15:00")

there is
I just told you
and you want driving pleasure I doubt an american car will give you that unless all you want is power
a silvia would be good too but the drift tax o man
also maybe a 330ci?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19838270 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)16:21:29")

They're the same, the front has turbo fan cover things that are removable. It was semi-common in the 80s, it forces air to the brakes for cooling."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19838274 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)16:22:39")

>Does removing a catalytic converter improve airflow?
On anything with a modern monolith catalyst, no.
> And are yearly smog tests/emissions tests a thing outside of California?
Calif isn't yearly, so no again."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19838275 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)16:23:04" && image=="IMG_9229.jpg")

"can anybody help me diagnose a mechanical issue?
My gf has bought her first car (2002 polo, 70k miles) and having some difficulty shifting gears apparently. she reckons its suddently become really difficult to change into gears? and a really bad crunch when going into reverse. It's definitely not the clutch - it disengages the engine right at the top of it's travel - i initially thought it was slipping but i drove it a bit and am happy it's not.

any ideas? low tranny fluid?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19838327 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)16:33:43")

>female driver
Found your problem"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19838342 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)16:37:43" && image=="IMG_9233.jpg")

pic is related to first one. Yes she crashed it, I was on the back... all jokes aside i know women cant drive for shit but the car is a bit shit and i believe that something is actually wrong with it so if u can help - pls do"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19838475 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)17:25:10")

Could be a bad slave or master cylinder. Try pumping the clutch pedal quickly about 30 times (while stopped and in nuetral) and then see if it shifts smoothly for the next few seconds."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19838549 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)17:48:04")

Is the clutch operated by cable or is it hydraulic? Could be a cable not adjusted correctly or a leaking/malfunctioning throwout bearing.

If it's grinding when putting it in reverse then it means the gears are still spinning when she tries to engage the gear, which shouldn't be happening.
So either she waits too little between pressing the clutch and engaging reverse (thus giving no time to all the things inside the gearbox to stop spinning) or the clutch doesn't disengage completely, which would explain both the grinding and the difficulty in shifting all other gears.

It doesn't matter if the bite point is right at the top of the pedal travel if pedal travel is then too little to completely separate the clutch from the flywheel.

Try to adjust the cable if it's cable-operated or try to bleed it if it's hydraulic, while also looking under the gearbox bellhousing to find leaks."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19838579 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)17:58:51")

"When are you "supposed" to feel turbo lag? One guy says only when you're going 60mph and floor it to pass someone, another says when you're launching from idle.";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19838615 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)18:09:32")

The problem is that people use "turbo lag" to refer to two different things: boost threshold (where in the RPM range the boost hits) and transient response (how long it takes to build the boost up when you put your foot down above the boost threshold)."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19838628 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)18:14:17")

So it does only have an "effect" at a particular RPM?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19838657 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)18:25:39")

Let's say you put it in high gear at low RPM, then floor it. It accelerates slowly until it reaches, let's say, 3800 RPM, and then you feel a surge of power. That's your boost threshold.

Now let's say you're cruising on the highway and downshift to third gear, which puts the engine at 5000 RPM (or whatever). You put your foot down, there's a brief delay, and then the car takes off like a rocket. That's your transient response. The transient response is typically faster at higher RPM.

The two effects are semi-related, but not the same thing. People call both of them "turbo lag"."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19838705 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)18:45:44")

>Are coilovers and other hard suspensions actually as bad and rough as people claim?
If you mean aftermarket adjustable coil over kits, if the springs and dampers are properly sized for your vehicle then the ride and handling will improve. Not sure what you mean by 'hard suspensions'. Biggest problem I see is someone will put 450lb/in springs on their stock shitbox that originally had ~200lb/in spring, then they slam it with the adjustable ride height(compressing the spring) and wonder why the car rides like shit. As it now has effectively 600+lb/in springs in a vehicle that may only way 2400lbs.
>I've only ever driven my truck which is only shocks up front and leaf springs in the back and I've never felt like it was anything bad at all. Does it get much worse?
Are you wondering if coil spring suspensions are worse than leaf springs?
That's a big difference in ride quality. Leaf springs are the springs but also the locating devices and suspension links for the rear. This makes the rear leaf springs a bit firmer than they need to be, it also makes the rear suspension not as compliant. With a truck the rear leafs are going to have higher than needed rate for an empty truck as the truck is designed to haul a load. Unladen the truck will feel 'over' sprung and bouncy.
As for 'worse'. The worst riding suspensions are going to be solid(live) axle suspensions. Parallel leaf springs < coil spring suspension(un-parallel four link < parallel five link < three link(torque arm)).
These suspensions can actually be made worse by using the incorrect bushing type to replace factory rubber bushing. Along with cheap or incorrectly valves dampers(shocks) for a given spring."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19838768 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)19:05:35")

>When are you "supposed" to feel turbo lag?
Ideally, never. Lag is from incorrectly sized turbo for a given engine. Or a rather large turbo on a 'race'(drag) car may have lag in the lower rpm range. But in any car built within the past 20years there should be no 'lag'. Back in the day there was lag but that had more to do with compliance in the system. Nothing like a turbocharged carb'd engine to make you go WTF. You could usually 'drive around' the problem by simply downshifting getting the turbos spooling and then re-upshift to get the car into 'bewst' quicker. But some cars were just shit from the factory *cough*Maserati Biturbo*cough*.
>One guy says only when you're going 60mph and floor it to pass someone, another says when you're launching from idle.
It really depends on the vehicle design and load on the engine. A modern 'turbo' engine should not feel/react that much different from a naturally aspirated engine.
Now if you upshift early and lug the engine you can create lag by not allowing the turbos to spool up. But most factory stock modern engines will not suffer from 'lag' during normal driving/correct shifting."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19839034 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)20:27:58")

Just get home from shop class?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19839044 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)20:31:15")

>Ideally, never
There's always some lag from turbos, it's the way it is. Twin turbo setups exist to keep the lag to a minimum. You need to use a supercharger if you don't want lag."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19839129 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)20:52:43")

"Computer says the ignition coil is failing. I was planning to get rid of this car in 3-4 months. I drive it maybe 10 miles a day. What are my odds of being able to ignore it and drive that long?";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19839142 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)20:55:22")

>What are my odds
Poor, if that's what the problem actually is."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19839143 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)20:55:23")


if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19839186 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)21:06:12" && image=="A9472651.jpg")

"I'm installing a parking mode cable for my dash cam that runs of constant and acc power and after a bunch of recommendations I've decided to use a couple of these Fuse holders.
I've not done a lot of wiring for things and when I have in the past it's all been with solder.

Can someone explain how I'm meant to use this connector? Is it one I'm meant to plug something into or a crimp/crust sorta deal where I stick the wire in then crimp/crush the sides down onto it?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19839201 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)21:11:19")

Is my computer a liar? What else might the problem be?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19839297 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)21:41:33")

"I drive a hunk of shit 97 Chevy Malibu and recently I've been having to pump the gas when I'm driving. It's like it's going to die from being low on gas if I keep the pedal in the same spot.";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19839307 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)21:44:16")

"Best oil brand for 5w30?

Valvoline is 50 cents more than mobile 1. Castrol is cheaper than both by a few dollars. I just want a full synthetic that will reach every crevice of the engine at redline."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19839341 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)21:53:47")

"Would you guys trust jack stands over ramps? My car is too low to just drive up the ramps so i plan on jacking it up and then just placeing the ramps under the tires and set it on the ramps.

Is the splash guard important? Its a pain in the ass to change the oil with it on and it takes 20 diffrent bolts to remove it. Im thinking about just leaving it off."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19839430 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)22:19:41")

"Just bought brand new car still makeing payments. 6 year old nephew climbs on the hood and "slides" off on his butt. He was wearing some shorts with a button on the backside and caused a 2 foot long scratch. I think its just the clear coat. What should i do? Its a 2018 camry.

Insurance claim? One of those "clear coat" scratch markers?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19839468 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)22:33:50")

firstly, beat the shit out of your nephew

secondly neither.

thirdly buff polish wax

forth(ly) kick the shit out of your nephew"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19839762 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)23:58:18")

">04 v70 starts smanging on the 1-2 shift
>check tranny fluid
>very dark, didn't smell test, but no particulate on the dipstick
>about 96k miles, don't think it's been changed once by the previous owner
>fucking nip, two nukes weren't enough

am I fucked? is this "transmission service" territory, or will a simple fluid replacement help? I've heard that if it's never been flushed, don't flush it because the sediment actually helps. or is that just an old daddies tale?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19839786 && dateTime=="10/09/18(Tue)00:07:24" && image=="images (1).jpg")

It's either a butt connector (put both exposed wires in and crimp together, it's permanent) or a bullet connector (pic related).
You cans till use whatever connector you are comfortable with (like fastons), just cut the end off and crimp/solder new connectors in."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19839793 && dateTime=="10/09/18(Tue)00:09:37")

forgot to say, I was gonna just do the ole drain'n'fill to replace. Im no /o/tist but I know the difference between that and a flush"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19839799 && dateTime=="10/09/18(Tue)00:11:17")

I THINK it's a butt connector.
Going to try and use it like one, if it doesn't work I'll just cut it off and solder the damn thing."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19839885 && dateTime=="10/09/18(Tue)00:38:00")

"My dad left the keys in the ignition before we took out the entire motor and transmission. Right now there's no engine, starter, etc and the only key to my house is stuck in the car. What do?";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19839951 && dateTime=="10/09/18(Tue)00:58:07")

Coat hanger in the window to pull a mechanical lock? It's a pain in the ass your first time, but it can work."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19840029 && dateTime=="10/09/18(Tue)01:22:46")

"I'm buying a used car for the first time, and I know used dealers are literally the worst jews on the planet, but will buying bumper to bumper full warranty from a separate company ensure that any problems a car I buy has will be covered?";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19840087 && dateTime=="10/09/18(Tue)01:39:10")

Is the trunk locked? I've gotten into my cars through the rear seats more than once.

Is this a manual? If so, I'd take a look at the shifter linkage bushings, otherwise it'll be a synchro. You can fix it if you really want to; it's probably $150 in parts and $600 in labor if you don't do it yourself. New fluid and better shifting technique (time your upshifts so the engine speed matches wheel speed in the new gear) can mask the issue if it's synchro, but it's not going to undo the wear. Flushing transmissions is an auto trans thing, it won't do shit for a manual.

Either is plenty safe, just make sure the car is chocked.

Go with a (0 or 5)w(30 or 40) synthetic, instead. It will start lubricating sooner and keep lubricating longer than the 10w30 basic bitch oil your old shitbox was specced for. I like Rotella T6 for my cars, but it's high in ZDDP (an extreme pressure lubricant), which will chew up your cats if you still have them. If that's an issue for you, I'd recommend German Castrol (I think it's a 5w40 now? Look for the "European Formula" label on the bottle). But really, anything marketed as full synthetic is going to be good enough to keep your car together for a million billion miles if you keep up on your maintenance. Even Walmart's house brand synthetic is pretty damn good.

Sounds like worn out contacts on your TPS, but it could be any number of things from that description."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19840089 && dateTime=="10/09/18(Tue)01:39:28")


if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19840093 && dateTime=="10/09/18(Tue)01:40:15")

Don't buy from a dealership. Save yourself a few grand and buy from Craigslist."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19840321 && dateTime=="10/09/18(Tue)03:14:03" && image=="20181008_174705.jpg")

"I was looking at the head I picked up recently and noticed that cylinders 1 and 2 have a brown shade to the exhaust valves, which stand proud of the head casting by about 1.5mm. Meanwhile, the other exhaust valves are flush and the same color as the intake valves. What does this tell me?";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19840374 && dateTime=="10/09/18(Tue)03:39:42")

Woke up and broke into my own car. New problem though; the keys are literally locked inside the ignition. They won't come loose at all in either direction.
Was hoping I wasn't gonna have to angle grind my smol pocket knife that I use as a keychain but it's my only option"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19840383 && dateTime=="10/09/18(Tue)03:45:22")

You've tried wiggling the steering wheel while you turn the key, right?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19840530 && dateTime=="10/09/18(Tue)04:58:13")

"I live in Nevada. I am buying my first car from a close friend (Friend A) in California. Shipping Fees are $500, so I'd rather pay another close friend ( Friend B ) to drive it over and then buy him a plane ticket home with my accumulated flight miles. The car is currently registered and smogged in California, and it runs with no issues.

I have paid for the car and am going to start completing the transaction tomorrow. Friend B can hold onto the car while I figure out transport.

I probably won't be able to get it insured since I'm currently unlicensed (Never needed a car until now) and most insurance companies will probably rape me since I'm 20 with no previous driving record. Everyone I've gotten a quote from wants $300/mo

What are my options? Am I just gonna have to bite the bullet and pay for shipping?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19840714 && dateTime=="10/09/18(Tue)07:00:01")

it's an autotragic, pls no bully. it was cheap."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19840937 && dateTime=="10/09/18(Tue)09:25:23")

I have a motorcycle and the clutch lever can be moved up and down. it still works fine, it's just annoying. Is there a way to fix that?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19840989 && dateTime=="10/09/18(Tue)09:49:02")

Lube Moly or Castrol, use what oil weight your manual recommends and nothing else."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19840993 && dateTime=="10/09/18(Tue)09:50:07")

It should have a bolt to tighten the whole lever assembly down."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19841002 && dateTime=="10/09/18(Tue)09:53:11")

You got to have insurance on the vehicle. if your friend has an accident both of you will be liable for the damge he causes as well as any legal repercussions that will come up which will be well in excess of the 500 youll pay for shipping"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19841010 && dateTime=="10/09/18(Tue)09:55:06")

The valves are burnt because whomever had thr engine last neglected to or didnt properly adjust them. Depending on the head, the seats may or may not be fucked as well."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19841250 && dateTime=="10/09/18(Tue)11:12:37")

Can't you just leave that one in the ignition and take the rest off the keyring? The car isn't going anywhere until you put an engine back in it."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19841284 && dateTime=="10/09/18(Tue)11:23:02")

Can you get on your parents insurance and pay them the difference? Second and third cars usually cost less."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19841491 && dateTime=="10/09/18(Tue)12:26:59")

Sorry, you need to consult a witch doctor, not a mechanic."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19841768 && dateTime=="10/09/18(Tue)13:40:50" && image=="IMG_20181007_213130529.jpg")

"Own a 2015 Ford Fusion and my LED screen is freaking out. At first it was some lines at the top of the screen but now it displays a messed up white screen, occasionally switching back to a warped radio station screen. The radio still works but I can't see anything on screen, which includes the backup cam when I put it in reverse. I don't know much about cars at all but I feel it's a problem with the screen. Any insight into the problem? Pic related is the screen when it worked consistently with the lines on top";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19842311 && dateTime=="10/09/18(Tue)15:54:01")

"so I just put a new carb on my engine. it idles fine but when i give it too much throttle it starts to bog down. if I'm carefull it can go to 4000 rpm but then cant go past that.";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19842345 && dateTime=="10/09/18(Tue)16:02:18")

What kind of carb? Is the accelerator pump squirting properly? Fuel level correct?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19842437 && dateTime=="10/09/18(Tue)16:24:27")

You probably need to ask a ford forum.

The only thing we can recommend is just find a good used unit, and replace it."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19843252 && dateTime=="10/09/18(Tue)19:42:50" && image=="1531950662236.jpg")

">driving along
>suddenly hot
>bout 200kms from town
>water pump is fucked but have spare in the back
>got the old one off
>manuel specs 27nm of torque on bolts
>no torque wrench in back and no idea how tight 27nm is
Help me out lads. Are we talking a nip, a heave or leaning on a breaker bar? I only have enough gasket forming shit for one attempt and I dont want to fuck it up and end up paying $500 for a tilt tray."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19843259 && dateTime=="10/09/18(Tue)19:44:21")

That's about 20 ft-lbs"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19843267 && dateTime=="10/09/18(Tue)19:45:40")

Imagine picking up a midsize dog (20lbs) , that's about as much force you need to put on the end of a foot long ratchet."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19843269 && dateTime=="10/09/18(Tue)19:45:44")

its a holley. ive adjusted the float levels and im pretty sure the accelerator pump is working fine. it acts normal up until 4000 rpm then it acts as if it doesnt have enough fuel. also it has about 6 psi of fuel pressure."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19843277 && dateTime=="10/09/18(Tue)19:47:05")

So we're talking like half strength, right?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19843282 && dateTime=="10/09/18(Tue)19:47:24")


hand tight not reefed on should be good enough. i was a mechanic for 10 years and never torqued any bolts besides head bolts really"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19843299 && dateTime=="10/09/18(Tue)19:49:23")

Thanks. This is what I was after"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19843301 && dateTime=="10/09/18(Tue)19:49:39")

20lbs is like little baby strength comrade."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19843330 && dateTime=="10/09/18(Tue)19:53:58")

Just look at the murrikan torque specs. Anything in inch-pounds is going to be hand tight with an open end wrench, anything up to about 70-80 ft-lbs is going to be hand tight with a reasonable sized ratchet, and anything over 80-90 is going to be laying into a breaker bar."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19843386 && dateTime=="10/09/18(Tue)20:03:10")

>Should I drain the atf from my torque converter or nah?
If there is a drain plug on the TC yes."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19843398 && dateTime=="10/09/18(Tue)20:06:25")

I just flipped it upside down and drained like a half quart from it then put in a half quart back in. I had it out along with the transmission so"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19843487 && dateTime=="10/09/18(Tue)20:25:58")

If you take the air cleaner off and open the throttle by hand, do you see a healthy squirt of fuel going into the venturis?

Is it a mechanical or vacuum secondary carb? Try having a friend stomp on it in neutral and see if a) the secondaries open correctly, and b) it looks like there's fuel flowing through them. If not, you may be looking at a clog somewhere in the secondary side of the carb.

After that you'll need to look at fuel mixture (remember, both lean and rich can cause bogging), fuel supply (are your pump, filter, and lines up to spec?), and ignition system (unlikely if you weren't having problems before, but failing coils/ignitors can cause symptoms like that)."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19843587 && dateTime=="10/09/18(Tue)20:44:19" && image=="1535798707300.jpg")

"How do I find a 3k civic?";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19843760 && dateTime=="10/09/18(Tue)21:25:43")

>the road hasn't changed at all and it was always only at 70
Tapered wheel bearings? How is it from 60-63? 63-65? Worse? Same?
Check for slop at 12 & 6, if there is rocking and it is not from sloppy BJs then your wheel bearings may be a bit sloppy and need adjustment, finger tight adjustment, snug it up til the slop is gone. Better to be a tad tighter than loose.
If the bearings are sealed but are mounted to a spindle or have a CV axle through them, try loosening and re-tightening the stub axle nut. Go for a drive, if the wheel noise is reduced then the bearing had slop in it and is worn out.
If there is no stub axle or spindle through the bearing and is a bolt on hub assembly(GM 3 or 4 bolt style) then there is no way to adjust and the bearing simply needs to be replaced."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19843800 && dateTime=="10/09/18(Tue)21:32:58")

>Just get home from shop class?

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19843822 && dateTime=="10/09/18(Tue)21:37:56")

>Is the splash guard important? Its a pain in the ass to change the oil with it on and it takes 20 diffrent bolts to remove it. Im thinking about just leaving it off.
It keeps junk from out of the engine bay. And on newer cars is fairly critical in aerodynamics and noise. Depending on how far back or what it covers, can also protect sensitive areas. German cars suck for that shit, but it does serve a purpose."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19843930 && dateTime=="10/09/18(Tue)22:03:58")

Check out FordTechMakulco, he has ford specific tech videos on YT."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19843942 && dateTime=="10/09/18(Tue)22:06:12")

>I just flipped it upside down and drained like a half quar
If there is no drain there is no way you are going to get any more out of the donut."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19844166 && dateTime=="10/09/18(Tue)23:06:13" && image=="1526169277507.jpg")

">looking at a '94 4runner with almost 300k miles
>v6, manual
>really clean, no accidents

I kinda want it even if I had to replace the clutch, is this a bad idea?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19844271 && dateTime=="10/09/18(Tue)23:34:54" && image=="a38.jpg")

">you will be this old someday"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19844275 && dateTime=="10/09/18(Tue)23:37:47" && image=="6000196771147[1].jpg")

"So I need to buy a car and get a license, US, btw. I drive okay I guess, but I'm 24 and I think I'll be prejudged by the cop because of that. Anyways, when I was 16 I failed the driver's test twice and haven't bothered since. How fucked am I if I fail a third time?";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19844719 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)02:04:49")

"alright so ive got very little braking power and i have no idea whats wrong. the booster is working I'm not leaking any fluid and the only thing wrong with any of the brakes is that one of the rear shoes is pretty low on material.";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19844752 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)02:11:47")


did you do the necessary tests to make sure the brake booster is okay? otherwise do the tests for the brake master cylinder.

low material shouldnt cause very little braking power, most likely either the booster or the master cylinder are dicked"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19844777 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)02:21:26")

Don't know if it's a state thing or a country thing but here you need to have the e-brake in a place where the examiner can reach it
Idk how much money you have but chevy cavaliers and pontiac sunfires are the cheapest of the cheap"

if(SA22C !pll4go9UvE && title=="" && postNumber==19844782 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)02:22:06")

Is the pedal super firm or are the pads not biting?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19844786 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)02:23:25")

nah m8. the only thing you should be worried about is the gaskets taking a hike. those 3VZE engines are notorious for that issue. Other than that, it's a decent deal."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19845332 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)06:48:34")

">take off exhaust manifold/extractors to weld up a crack
>put it back on with new perforated metal gasket
>big engine farting at the front of the motor
>try again three times and still leaking at the same spot
Any advice? I'm tightening from the inside to out and im sure its not warped as I wasnt welding anywhere near the flange."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19845542 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)09:00:42" && image=="maxresdefault.jpg")

"Not driven manual before but looking at buying a shitbox to learn in have a question about shifting.
I've seen things about rev matching and maintaining revs to have efficient gear changes.
But I've been watching some how to videos on YouTube and they haven't mentioned anything about revs when shifting.
They demonstrate driving and shifting up a gear.
>moving in first
>clutch in
>foot off the accelerator
>shift into second
>clutch out
>back onto accelerator

What happens if you take your foot off the accelerator and the revs drop while your changing gear?
Like if you were slow to change or having trouble finding for example third when shifting from second."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19845554 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)09:03:56")

Catastrophic damage to engine and transmission, usually ending in inferno. Some advice, carry a fire extinguisher."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19845558 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)09:05:14")

>not sure if joking"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19845561 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)09:05:37")

Nothing would happen. You'd shift into a higher gear with a lower rev then.
Worst case scenario (but you'd have to really try to get that) is that you stall the engine. But that'd require you to upshift 5 gears or so. And even then you could just floor it or kick the clutch back in to prevent that."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19845569 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)09:08:38")

Thanks anon.
I was thinking that would be the case but wasn't totally sure.

I'm really excited to get a manual and learn but at the same time worried about going to buy one since I don't know anyone who can drive one so I would have to buy it then drive it home myself. And I live a fair distance from most of the cars I've found."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19845576 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)09:11:34")

to be honest you dont need to worry about this for a while, what matters is just that you practice it for a while and you'll intuitively figure shit out pretty fast. you're gonna fuck up going from neutral to first a bunch before you get it so just practice that first in an isolated area. do like 100 stops to neutral then start. shifting other gears is not hard at all and you will do it very quickly."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19845922 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)10:50:31" && image=="1466046852602.png")


I have to buy rims for my winter tires. I can have a 40mm offset or a 38 mm offset and both are the same price.

What the fuck does it mean and how do I determine what is best for my car?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19846084 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)11:21:36")

"What the best price to performance ratio initial D tier hoon car I can buy? An RX-7 and an Evo-X would be perfect me but I've resigned myself to a life of poverty.";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19846117 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)11:28:21")

$3k Civic with a few mods and an LS swap"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19846130 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)11:32:10")

Wait shit I could just mod my current car. Do I have to have rear wheel drive to be a hoon?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19846147 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)11:33:56")

Yes. Or you can convert your FWD to a RWD by swapping out the drivetrain and maybe the chasis"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19846161 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)11:35:35")

"My driver side sunroof drain pipe on my 08 Avalon is detached from the top. I blew it out from the bottom so I know it's not clogged. Don't want to break those little clips/electrical so I'm taking into the shop. What would you say is a reasonable price/time-estimate?
Thanks bros."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19846208 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)11:45:50")

Maybe its not your brakes....."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19846219 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)11:49:54")

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19846239 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)11:54:18")

Youre both retarded fuck off"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19846244 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)11:55:27")

5-10 minutes.
But the minimum is an hour so"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19846346 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)12:26:38")

Thanks for the response!"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19846378 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)12:37:58")

One more question...if for some reason the drain pipe needs to replaced can it be snaked down from the top or does it require more finesse?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19846568 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)13:23:00")

How Inisharu:D does it have to be? As far as cars actually featured in the show, the Miata is going to be the cheapest, followed by probably an S13. If you just want to hoon around in a nipmobile, look at an old Lexus SC or LS. They're cheap as fuck, RWD, come with the great 1UZ or 2JZ engines depending on the model, are comfy as fuck (which also means lots of low-hanging fruit for weight reduction), and have a pretty decent aftermarket. The SC is actually built on the same platform as the Supra, so Supra suspension and other bits will bolt right on.

Offset is the distance of the wheel mounting face from the center of the rim. You can find the offset of a wheel by measuring its width and dividing by two, then putting a straight edge across the inside rim and measuring down to the mounting face. The offset will be the distance you measure, minus half the width of the rim, in millimeters. A higher offset will move your tires in toward the car (risking clearance issues with the dampers and inner fenders), while a lower offset will move the tires outward (risking clearance issues with the fender itself and just sticking out and looking dumb). It's generally better to err on the side of too high offset than too low, since you can always shim them out with wheel spacers if necessary.>>19845542
>What happens if you take your foot off the accelerator and the revs drop while your changing gear?
This is actually what you want when upshifting. On downshifts or if you miss a gear and the revs drop to far on an upshift, you can blip the throttle to match the RPMs, but it's not necessary in a synchronized transmission. The synchros are there to spin up (or down) the input shaft the match the speed in the new gear.

I'd check for cracks and straightness, just to be sure."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19846594 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)13:29:11")

Can you be more specific about the problem? Regardless of where the problem is, I'd recommend bleeding the brakes. It's cheap and can rule several things out."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19846811 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)14:14:34" && image=="1447051106117.jpg")

"My 03 Chevy Avalanche broke down on me today. Lost power, wouldn't restart and was leaking fuel in the rear and transmission fluid in the front. It's at a shop now but wtf happened? Couldn't find anything like it on google.";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19846875 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)14:34:29")

"How often should you change the trans and brake fluid? I heard that if a vehicle hasn’t gotten the transmission fluid changed in a good while they should just leave it as is because it will do more damage to the trans, is that true?";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19846903 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)14:42:29")

Watch this for transmission fluid.
For brake fluid I change mine every 30k"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19847494 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)17:24:23")

You hit something and pretended nothing happened until now."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19847507 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)17:26:57")

Look outside your nearby area? I've driven 500 miles to get a car before, so its doable."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19847603 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)17:52:54")

I didn't though, just got the truck 4 months ago, got it checked out at 2 shops I trust and they couldn't find anything wrong with it before I bought it. Seems weird it would break down and start leaking gas and trans fluid at the same time."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19847895 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)19:14:28")

"Well , it happened. Nothing lights up when I turn the key. I had to push the car twice this week and park it on the other side of the street. Fuck my life. What should be my next step?";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19848021 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)19:42:33")

"I have a 2011 Hyundai Santa Fe. Recently, it has been unable to start. It starts immediately with a boost, and the battery analyzer says the battery is solid. Which leaves the starter or the alternator I think.

Any other troubleshooting tips to verify the cause? It seems random. The first time, it was after a short (2 minute) trip, the second was overnight, and the third was after a long (40 minute) trip.

Another suggestion I got was the battery wasn't good enough, not charging the starter enough, but that sounded less than viable."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19848030 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)19:44:12")

"Replacing a headlight in my car this weekend, do I need to get it aligned?";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19848088 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)20:03:55")

No, the aiming is separate from replacing the bulb but it can't hurt to check it. Park 25 feet from a wall and make a mark at 4 feet, the cutoff should be at the mark."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19848095 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)20:04:56")

Thanks pal"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19848365 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)21:11:07" && image=="Capture.jpg")

"Is it worth it to get LED headlight kids instead of high-end halogen bulbs?";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19848392 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)21:17:04")


if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19848450 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)21:26:50")

LED kits typically have horrible beam patterns when used in housings that were designed for traditional or halogen lamps.

You'll probably end up with shittier visibility and pissing off oncoming drivers."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19848462 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)21:29:20")

Recharge the battery, have it tested, if it passes, check your leads and connections to see if they're lose and clean with no corrosion, If that's good, pull your alternator and have it tested."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19848474 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)21:30:23")

Honestly sounds like your leads are loose, or corroded."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19848488 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)21:33:06")

"Can i put this engine in this car? And should i do it if i can?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19848510 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)21:36:36")

If you have to ask, then no, you don't have the capability of doing it.

Engine swaps, even with stock engines are not for noobs."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19848533 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)21:41:50")

Leads are tight, didn't check for corrosion though."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19848996 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)23:24:49")

"where did the bread on the hood meme come from, why bread of all things";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19849038 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)23:40:42")


if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19849060 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)23:44:56")

"Car key hole either has a broken key inside or is seized shut. I can't open my car door without my key fob. I also can't seem to find any lock cylinders that aren't generic cheapo shit.

Is there a way to fix it or get one off a junkyard car and re-pin it? It seems aftermarket manufacturers stopped making re-pinning kits for my car."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19849065 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)23:46:10" && image=="hqdefault.jpg")

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19849195 && dateTime=="10/11/18(Thu)00:28:43")

Does the key turn in the door?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19849205 && dateTime=="10/11/18(Thu)00:31:44")

No, it gets about 1/2 inch in and it won't go in any further. I just bought the car, I have no idea what the previous owner did to it."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19849218 && dateTime=="10/11/18(Thu)00:34:32")

Did you try white lithium grease and wd40?
If you haven't, do it. Don't get any on the paint"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19849253 && dateTime=="10/11/18(Thu)00:46:28")

No, but I did buy some all-purpose lubricant and sprayed in there liberally. Nothing, not even a millimeter of budging."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19849495 && dateTime=="10/11/18(Thu)02:13:50")

You could take the lock out and try playing around with the tumblers
Maybe if you pull all of them up the key will slide out"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19849554 && dateTime=="10/11/18(Thu)02:34:30")

Good idea. What if there's nothing in there though?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19849565 && dateTime=="10/11/18(Thu)02:38:05")

Next time It happens, and if the starter motor is within reach, try smacking it with a hammer, a tire wrench or something reasonably heavy and then try cranking again. If it starts it's most likely the starter motor that is on its way out or is very, very dirty"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19849575 && dateTime=="10/11/18(Thu)02:42:40")

Then what would be stopping the tumblers?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19849603 && dateTime=="10/11/18(Thu)02:54:26" && image=="1467077427580.png")


if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19849615 && dateTime=="10/11/18(Thu)02:58:57" && image=="da18-Djn_400x400.jpg")

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19849808 && dateTime=="10/11/18(Thu)04:33:39" && image=="Z5W7IZFQ.jpg")

"What is she driving?";

if(ThatMidEnginedGuy && title=="" && postNumber==19850115 && dateTime=="10/11/18(Thu)07:19:21")

"Ladies and Gentlemen, the new Thread's Up - >>19850107

Ladies and Gentlemen, the new Thread's Up - >>19850107

Ladies and Gentlemen, the new Thread's Up - >>19850107

Ladies and Gentlemen, the new Thread's Up - >>19850107

Ladies and Gentlemen, the new Thread's Up - >>19850107"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19850128 && dateTime=="10/11/18(Thu)07:25:08")

understandable, have a nice day"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19850188 && dateTime=="10/11/18(Thu)08:01:51")

>is there a point
yeah, to have fun"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==19850288 && dateTime=="10/11/18(Thu)08:51:14")

>What should i do?
get a proper belt or extension cable and let him learn some valuable life lessons"