import 4.code.options;
import 4.code.about;

class Header{

public void title(){

String fullTitle = "/vr/ - Retro Games";

public void menu();

public void board();

public void goToBottom();

public void refresh(a);

class Thread extends Board{
public void /CRT/Thread-AnonLied,PeopleDiedEdition(OP Anonymous){

String fullTitle = "/CRT/ Thread- Anon Lied, People Died Edition";
int postNumber = "5077814";
String image = "DSC06845ARW sesc sh.jpg";
String date = "10/01/18(Mon)22:58:52";
String comment = "Previous thread: >>5047030

>Try to keep it /vr/-related: Nothing past 5th gen(+ Dreamcast). Slight OT might be okay if related to CRTs (E.G. 16:9 compatible models, flatscreens, etc.) Systems with backwards compatibility are also pretty safe territory, assuming you're focusing on the older games. PC CRTs are also a-ok.
>Produce OC! Get out your real cameras and take beautiful pictures of your CRTs displaying recognizable characters with the kind of beautiful accuracy that brings tears to the eyes of young and old alike! If you take 100 photos, at least one of them will turn out alright! (maybe)
>Try to be as detailed as possible when asking info on a specific model. As always, google is your friend, and we are your friends with benefits. Older archived threads aren't a bad place to look either.
>Share appreciation for others choice of technology and personal philosophy of gaming. As always show courtesy in your discussion and moderate yourselves first.

Discussion of video processing and scaling devices is okay, but try to keep the focus on CRTs and CRT accessories

CRT Pastebin (Never Ever) :
Guide to CRT Hunting :
Guide to Video Monitors :
General Purpose CRT Adjustment Guide :
S-Video Pasta :
BKM-10R Protocol Info :
JVC RGB card cloning guide :

/crt/ Discord Server :

Thread Survey :
Collaborative Consumer CRT Project Survey :"

public void comments(){
if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5077836 && dateTime=="10/01/18(Mon)23:24:13" && image=="jvcModel AV-32D304.jpg")

>start feeling hopeless I'll never find anything locally and be forced to face the scalpers
>find this 5 minutes away for free and pick it up
Did I do good? To my shock it had component when I thought it only had S-Video."

if(Kya !kDashing02 && title=="" && postNumber==5077839 && dateTime=="10/01/18(Mon)23:45:33")

JVC D-Series sets are good shit."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5077919 && dateTime=="10/02/18(Tue)10:25:53")

"Is the N64 RGB mod easy to do? The most "modding" I've done is installing a modchip in my saturn, which just required me to solder a line to the PSU for power and that was it. I have an early model with serial number starting with NS1, so apparently I can use the cheaper/easier mod.

Also I assume I could use my super nintendo RGB cable after that with no issue, right?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5077920 && dateTime=="10/02/18(Tue)10:27:28")

"Do Composite RCA to BNC adaptors exist?";

if(Kya !kDashing02 && title=="" && postNumber==5077923 && dateTime=="10/02/18(Tue)16:58:41")

If it is one of the earlier models that just need an amp installed, it just involves running a few wires and either buying a pre-made board with the amp and everything already soldered to it, or putting together a tiny one yourself. Depending on board revision, and whether you want/need CSync or not, it may require an extra wire or two.

Unless you're feeding into a video processor of some sort, you might want to just stick with S-Video. Going to RGB for N64 doesn't do a whole lot; At most, slightly better colors in most cases.
Moving to getting one of the mods meant for the later boards might have a bit more worth, for the deblur option, but that's something I haven't had a chance to compare for myself.

It's just a physical connection. Female RCA to Male BNC adapters are cheap and plentiful online."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5078012 && dateTime=="10/02/18(Tue)18:16:56" && image=="DSCF6419.jpg")


if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5078019 && dateTime=="10/02/18(Tue)18:20:05" && image=="DSCF6401.jpg")


if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5078023 && dateTime=="10/02/18(Tue)18:21:51" && image=="DSCF6400.jpg")


if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5078035 && dateTime=="10/02/18(Tue)18:34:36")

It's not the right game, but still, you are now manually hearing a certain acoustic guitar music."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5078101 && dateTime=="10/02/18(Tue)19:19:28")

">Assemble Super Socket 7 build list
>Centerpiece is Voodoo 5500
>Build Machine
>GPU BIOS is damaged
>Use backup video card
>K6-3+ not really appropriate for Diablo II

Well, fuck me sideways, I just wanted native Glide support. At least the Daewood monitor off Craigslist is pretty cozy. I should see how some other games look on it. Tons of Dreamcast stuff too.

You guys have any decent finds lately?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5078108 && dateTime=="10/02/18(Tue)19:23:45")


JVC shit is really good. It's what I'd go for, besides a Trinitron."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5078176 && dateTime=="10/02/18(Tue)20:01:45")

fuck me Diablo 2 on a crt looks good."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5078196 && dateTime=="10/02/18(Tue)20:13:43" && image=="P_20180929_211126_vHDR_On.jpg")

JVC made some ridiculously high TVL SD consumer sets. The D-series is really spectacular. Panasonic Tau and Toshiba TheaterviewSD sets are also superb. All worth keeping an eye out for along side Trinitrons, maybe even looking out for over them."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5078204 && dateTime=="10/02/18(Tue)20:20:42")

JVC TVL claims on consumer TVs are most probably bullshit.
They are still very high Q sets, but don't take the TVL spec at face value (again, for consumer stuff)"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5078214 && dateTime=="10/02/18(Tue)20:25:26")

I've heard that before but never seen it substantiated."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5078219 && dateTime=="10/02/18(Tue)20:29:12")

What's high for a consumer set? IIRC consumer sets are ~300 whereas PVMs are 600, "HR" PVMs at 800, and then BVMs can range higher than that.

I also heard that TV manufacturers actively preferred to give fewer TV lines on consumer sets because the plebs liked the "softer image""

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5078224 && dateTime=="10/02/18(Tue)20:31:02")

some 29" are claimed to be what, 800TVL ?
There are TVL patterns to do the measurements.
Or the dot pitch could also give an idea

I'm thinking they went with single lines instead of pairs"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5078246 && dateTime=="10/02/18(Tue)20:45:09")

I'd like to see someone do a count or at least an estimate.

Consumer sets are usually in the 350-450 range, maybe some as high as 500 or 550. The JVC D-series tubes are supposedly in the 800 TVL area. I've heard conflicting remarks that it's just horizontal lines which doesn't matter, as opposed to vertical lines as it should be. This to me doesn't even make sense but I need to see more proof before deciding."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5078253 && dateTime=="10/02/18(Tue)20:47:45")

On consumer sets, claims are in "lines horizontal resolution"
On monitor sets, claims are in "TVL" or "TV Lines"
So who knows what pattern they used for the consumer sets."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5078260 && dateTime=="10/02/18(Tue)20:49:20")

sounds like bullshit to me. That'd put them in line with the higher end HR PVMs"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5078270 && dateTime=="10/02/18(Tue)20:53:39")

JVC wasn't exactly foreign to producing monitors that competed with or surpassed Sony's pro monitors. It wouldn't surprise me if they produced consumer sets with high end features to compete. Once again, I'd really like to see someone do some tests.

Yeah, I don't even know what lines of horizontal resolution would quantify. To me that just sounds like inflating numbers to make it seem like the set is better than what it really is."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5078279 && dateTime=="10/02/18(Tue)20:57:18")

being a competitor in the professional monitor market isn't the same thing as, for some reason, making their consumer TVs with the high-end screens of the professional monitor lines."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5078302 && dateTime=="10/02/18(Tue)21:07:36")

I never said they used their pro monitor resources, I'm merely stating JVC had the technology."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5078372 && dateTime=="10/02/18(Tue)21:47:29")

They claim 800 horizontal lines = 600TVL/PH"

if(Kya !kDashing02 && title=="" && postNumber==5078408 && dateTime=="10/02/18(Tue)22:00:02")

It was worked out that they're giving a measurement for the full width of the screen rather than measuring width height for width. The latter is the proper TVL measurement, so they end up with 800 where it'd actually be 600 as a proper TVL measurement.

Taking their advertised measurement and multiplying it by .75 would give the proper number. Still very nice sets either way."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5078431 && dateTime=="10/02/18(Tue)22:12:03")


Can we agree that because you play PC games on a PC monitor rather than console games on a TV set, that PC gaming is therefore inherently better than console gaming?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5078439 && dateTime=="10/02/18(Tue)22:16:14")

No, that's so stupid only a mustard can think of it."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5078520 && dateTime=="10/02/18(Tue)23:00:28" && image=="pretty big crt.jpg")

"I gave myself a month without my GDM Fw900. I moved it upstairs and away from my desk. I have been using this 144hz lcd (Asus 24"). I just commented to the wife that I am going to have to get the beast back out again. I can't stand lcd. This is just terrible. Games look like crap, and the colors are just slightly off. I do calibrate the GDM every few years, but still....I would think that a nearly 2 decade old monitor shouldn't be able to compete with LCDs, but it can, and does...and it blows the doors off.

Why do I listen to dweebs on the internet? The only thing that LCDs are good for is text clarity. I will be reverting to a dual monitor setup like I had previously (pic related). Don't believe the lies anons. LCDs are shit. You either get good colors and motion blur, or shit colors and next to no motion blur. I don't care how much space and electric the GDM takes up. It makes perfect colors and no motion blur at refresh rates that allow for spectacular motion sickness. (1280x800@140hz is AMAZING)


if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5079218 && dateTime=="10/03/18(Wed)09:37:02" && image=="IMG185314172.jpg")

"How'd I do, boys?";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5079232 && dateTime=="10/03/18(Wed)09:45:57")

depends on price
ok if less than $80"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5079235 && dateTime=="10/03/18(Wed)09:47:00" && image=="20181002_173540.jpg")

Free, my man. No rgb but 750tvl"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5079240 && dateTime=="10/03/18(Wed)09:49:35")

cool then, be sure to use s-video"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5079242 && dateTime=="10/03/18(Wed)09:50:55")


You can get RGB with the slot, build a slot card yourself or buy one."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5079243 && dateTime=="10/03/18(Wed)09:51:18")

Yeah I've got both sets hooked up through svideo. I still haven't gotten around to unlocking rgb on the Sony."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5079251 && dateTime=="10/03/18(Wed)10:07:28")

Are the expansion cards model specific, or is there a generic jvc expansion card?"

if(Kya !kDashing02 && title=="" && postNumber==5079252 && dateTime=="10/03/18(Wed)10:08:21")

JVC, Panasonic, and a few Ikegamis all use the same card."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5079254 && dateTime=="10/03/18(Wed)10:10:29")


There's a Panasonic version of the card as well, model number BT-YA702P."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5079278 && dateTime=="10/03/18(Wed)10:33:26")

Hell yeah, I just ordered. The seller automatically accepted an offer of $55. I should have tried lower first, but what are you going to do. $65 total for a scart ready monitor feels decent. I'll probably make this a desktop monitor because of the 15" screen."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5079341 && dateTime=="10/03/18(Wed)10:58:22")

Nice, 3 is the best Metal Slug."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5079446 && dateTime=="10/03/18(Wed)11:54:23")

"Should I avoid cheap scart cables or is one as good as any? They're like $7 on Newegg but definitely Chinese.";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5079469 && dateTime=="10/03/18(Wed)12:06:28")

I'm curious about this as well. I've seen cheap chinkshit SCART cables on amazon for a similar price, which is definitely enticing compared to the cables I got a few years back for some of my consoles from that are like 25 bucks each IIRC.

I've seen some reviews that talk about slight image issues or audio buzzing due to lack of shielding. I'm wondering if these are things that someone could fix themselves by slicing open the outer cable and doing DIY shielding though. At any rate, they're cheap so it could be worth a shot."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5079491 && dateTime=="10/03/18(Wed)12:22:26")

I use a cheap unshielded RGB SCART cable with my PS2 and there is a 50/60Hz buzz which gets louder/quieter depending on whats on the screen. The picture quality is great on my consumer CRT though and I don't really notice the buzzing while playing a game."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5079495 && dateTime=="10/03/18(Wed)12:24:14" && image=="hydra-automatic-8x-scart-switcher-videoswitcher-and-converter.png")

From what I've heard, you only need to spring for better cables if you happen to be using a switcher."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5079502 && dateTime=="10/03/18(Wed)12:26:27")

In general from what I understand problems incurred from poor-quality cables is more apparently if you're using a capture card or upscaler to an HDTV, with CRTs doing a better job of masking any imperfections. I do know that none of my shielded cables have no buzzing noise though.

I don't have a SCART cable for dreamcast. I might get one off amazon for like 7 bucks just to see how it is."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5079506 && dateTime=="10/03/18(Wed)12:29:12")

I wish there were more info/options regarding scart switchers. You look online for info and you just get everyone telling you to get these switchers like the hydra that cost like 200 dollars or however much. That price simply isn't worth the convenience of not needing to unplug. Currently I just have a caribiner on the front handle of my PVM with all the consoles' scart connectors held, and I manually plug/unplug when I switch consoles. I wish I didn't need to do that, but none of the options I've seen that people can attest are good are worth the price."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5079525 && dateTime=="10/03/18(Wed)12:36:56")

I spent £4 on my PS2 cable and even if its not the absolute best quality its a huge step up from composite."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5079564 && dateTime=="10/03/18(Wed)12:55:58" && image=="Retro-Access SCART + OSSS.jpg")

Avoid them like the plague. Seriously, don't subject yourself to how terrible they are. I bought a cheap $10 one for my Saturn from eBay and it was the worst decision I've made since getting into professional monitors.
What this anon >>5079491 is describing is exactly what will happen.
I don't know where you guys heard that but it's definitely not true, I don't use a switcher or an upscaler or anything, and the buzzing is unbearable on the three rgb-capable monitors I have. I do use the Open Source Sync Stripper(pic related) for two monitors, but not the third. It ruins the experience for atmospheric games, and gives me a headache if I listen to it for too long. I don't know what it is about an RGB signal, but it's way more prone to interfering with and creating noise on the audio channels.
My new multicore coax individually-shielded SCART cable from Retro-Access came in yesterday and it's heavenly. Sweet relief."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5079610 && dateTime=="10/03/18(Wed)13:13:46" && image=="evagreen.jpg")

>check site
>90% is out of stock
>few cables that are in stock are 55 dollars each

Yeah I'm gonna pass on these guys."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5079654 && dateTime=="10/03/18(Wed)13:32:57")

Read the messages they have pasted all over their site about how to order, silly. They build your cable to order once you purchase it and then send it to you, and they only allow a certain number of orders per day so that they don't get swamped with them. If you want to buy something from them, do it in the morning.
My only regret with buying a $35 cable from them is that I should have just done that first instead of spending a third of that on garbage."

if(Fun Allowed && title=="" && postNumber==5079732 && dateTime=="10/03/18(Wed)14:12:30" && image=="hniG2sw.jpg")

"The non-persistence of CRTs was very fatiguing, even at 85 hertz. I'm glad to be rid of that :-)";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5079738 && dateTime=="10/03/18(Wed)14:16:17")

Disgusting faggot."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5079748 && dateTime=="10/03/18(Wed)14:25:00" && image=="1537375260326.jpg")

What are you even blathering on about?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5079754 && dateTime=="10/03/18(Wed)14:27:08")

I have this exact Trinitron in storage somewhere, it's what I used growing up. How does it compared to other CRT monitors?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5079771 && dateTime=="10/03/18(Wed)14:37:25")

I mean, it's one of the best, so you were very lucky to have had it when it was retailing for more than $1,000"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5079796 && dateTime=="10/03/18(Wed)14:54:41" && image=="20181003_134741.jpg")

It was pretty great, but it was also one of the only CRT monitors I've owned. I remember the printer back then was like $400 for an inkjet too, around 2000.

I got its bigger brother I think a few years afterwards since I didn't like early TN panels and thought LCDs were always going to be like that. It was also pretty great too."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5079810 && dateTime=="10/03/18(Wed)15:01:18" && image=="IMG_20180202_165424.jpg")

"How much would you pay for a 19" Ikegami that's composite only";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5079821 && dateTime=="10/03/18(Wed)15:08:19" && image=="IMG_20180913_210756.jpg")

"Have some PVMeme.";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5079823 && dateTime=="10/03/18(Wed)15:09:09")

What kind of tvl count?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5079837 && dateTime=="10/03/18(Wed)15:13:27")

$80 max"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5079840 && dateTime=="10/03/18(Wed)15:14:07")

I really like your vacuum cleaner"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5079841 && dateTime=="10/03/18(Wed)15:14:34")

not even svideo ? 10 bucks"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5079847 && dateTime=="10/03/18(Wed)15:17:20")

Bonjour Mr Baguette"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5079876 && dateTime=="10/03/18(Wed)15:29:07")


if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5079884 && dateTime=="10/03/18(Wed)15:33:49")

S'alright m8.

The projector stand is a novel, if extremely risky, solution too. I see it is already becoming a hot meme around here so kudos for potentially reducing the CRT pool and raising the future resale value of my large collection."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5079890 && dateTime=="10/03/18(Wed)15:38:03" && image=="component transcoder.png")

"So I'm using one of these component transcoders so I can use my systems on component-enabled TVs. The CSY-2100 knockoff. Requires some adjustment, but things mostly seem fine. The main issue I'm having is that there seems to be a bit of interference going on. I can notice it a little on my trinitron, but it's very apparent when hooking it up to an LCD monitor.

Upon inspection, I'm assuming the interference is coming from the DC input, which is right next to the component outputs. Does anyone have any ideas on a possible DIY fix to shield the signal from the power input? I guess I could dig around and find another AC adapter with the same specs and see if that helps, but I'm guessing it won't."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5079895 && dateTime=="10/03/18(Wed)15:40:47")

bigass filter cap on power jack pins"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5079903 && dateTime=="10/03/18(Wed)15:42:01" && image=="Erard%20le%20pied[1].jpg")

It's a bespoke TV stand, not a projector stand. It supported a TV for a decade before I bought it, and it will again for a couple more.
They were quite popular over here, way more than console TV that I never encountered in the wild."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5079905 && dateTime=="10/03/18(Wed)15:42:10")

Anything I could do that wouldn't require soldering?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5079906 && dateTime=="10/03/18(Wed)15:43:06")

>no soldering
you're in the wrong hobby m8"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5079912 && dateTime=="10/03/18(Wed)15:45:43")

I'll take that as a no. Also electronic tinkering isn't my hobby, I just want to get the thing to give me a good picture without having to go back to square one."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5079930 && dateTime=="10/03/18(Wed)16:00:03")

You can't fool me, Maurice"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5079934 && dateTime=="10/03/18(Wed)16:05:45")

What game?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5079935 && dateTime=="10/03/18(Wed)16:06:33")

Luckily it does seem to just be a shitty AC adapter. I found another 12V adapter and there's no interference ripples anymore."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5079938 && dateTime=="10/03/18(Wed)16:10:14")

That thing is really only good for 6th gen and some 7th, especially Xbox and GC/Wii. It won't display proper 240p but obviously excels at 480p and 720p."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5079941 && dateTime=="10/03/18(Wed)16:11:16")

Front mission but I dunno which one."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5079950 && dateTime=="10/03/18(Wed)16:17:20")

HD CRTs aren't necessarily bad. I have a Toshiba HD CRT from the mid 2000s and it handles 240p very well. It doesn't try to run the signal as 480i leading to problems with stripes or flickering, and I ge the same input lag scores as I do on my SD CRTs.

The only downside is that it doesn't have scanlines. So while I prefer using my older consoles on the SD CRT, there's nothing fundamentally wrong with this one. Of course this can absolutely vary by manufacturer and model."

if(Kya !kDashing02 && title=="" && postNumber==5079954 && dateTime=="10/03/18(Wed)16:19:07")

>480p and 720p
1080i is where it excels; 480p is treated rather well though.

Have you actually had a chance to compare it directly against an known lagless source, be that an SD set or PC, depending on source?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5079967 && dateTime=="10/03/18(Wed)16:24:12")

Using 240p test suite for the pattern tests, and the manual input lag test. Doing the automatic lag test where you split the signal isn't something I'm willing to do because it would require me to haul a giant CRT into another room either way. But rest assured, I get the same scores on the manual input lag test as I do on my SD PVM."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5079980 && dateTime=="10/03/18(Wed)16:32:35")

>The projector stand is a novel, if extremely risky
It looks like it would have the same type of support as a tv stand. It should hold a tv no problem. Your brain and mine both see it as a potential hazard, but it is an optical illusion. So long as the legs are solid, and the support doesn't wiggle, it will work just fine. Center of gravity is the key to this, not the shape of the stand. I felt the same way when I first looked at one of these, but realized that its just odd to look at. I too would rather have storage space under it.....But to each their own."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5079990 && dateTime=="10/03/18(Wed)16:36:27")

It's ideal for SNES and every 5th gen console with a few exceptions for dither-heavy games like Silent Hill that benefit form composite."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5079991 && dateTime=="10/03/18(Wed)16:37:10")

wtf is this supposed to mean"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5079994 && dateTime=="10/03/18(Wed)16:38:59")


He thinks he's superior because he prefers videogames to look like shit."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5079996 && dateTime=="10/03/18(Wed)16:39:34")

Only mutts use S-Video because RGB-capable equipment is far more sparse in North America than it is in Western Europe and Japan."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5080008 && dateTime=="10/03/18(Wed)16:49:17")

I fucking hate S-video. The worst fucking cable design known to man. Every time I plug one of these pieces of shit in, I'm praying that I'm not going to fucking break something.

If they were smart they would've designed it to work like component cables or RGBS breakout cables, where every piece of the signal is separate with its own rca jack, so one for chroma and one for luma. And don't even get me started on how like 90% of s-video cables for vidya games are garbage and trying to find one that's decent is like searching for the fountain of youth."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5080014 && dateTime=="10/03/18(Wed)16:51:20")

The S-Video connector design looks pretty nice, better than the wonky SCART connector. A pretty pointless standard though since they could have just introduced RGB input instead. All color TVs use RGB internally anyway."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5080016 && dateTime=="10/03/18(Wed)16:52:32")

svideo was introduced with Hi8 and SVHS"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5080019 && dateTime=="10/03/18(Wed)16:53:59")

I know, but it's still a pointless standard since it wouldn't be harder to just add a straight RGB port."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5080020 && dateTime=="10/03/18(Wed)16:54:11")

SCART is pretty flimsy, sure, but at least it's shape and size make it impossible to accidentally try to jam it in the wrong way. The issue with s-video is that it's a circle with multiple pins inside so orientation matters, but it's much harder to get the orientation right when it's shaped like a circle.

But SCART is shit too. If I had my way all analogue connectors would be RCA jacks. One jack for composite, two jacks for s-video, 3 jacks for component, 4 jacks for RGB+S. And fuck it, let's have 5 jacks for VGA's RGB + H/V sync"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5080062 && dateTime=="10/03/18(Wed)17:12:28")

"Remind me, csync is the best output for a ntsc scart cable right?";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5080063 && dateTime=="10/03/18(Wed)17:12:53")

Some Commodore 1084 monitors have S-video over 2 RCA connectors just like you're describing. It's a lot nicer"

if(Kya !kDashing02 && title=="" && postNumber==5080170 && dateTime=="10/03/18(Wed)18:31:12")

Issue with that is you end up compensating for the slight delay because you're expecting to press the button at a given time. The split and photograph method gives more concrete proof.

Not to say it has a massive delay or anything, but I could definitely see a frame or two slipping in without being noticed."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5080179 && dateTime=="10/03/18(Wed)18:39:13" && image=="IMG_2008.jpg")

"I actually like my s-video Sanyo shitbox";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5080182 && dateTime=="10/03/18(Wed)18:39:24")

"Does anyone have any experience with this company. They're selling snes scart cables made in the US for $20.";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5080285 && dateTime=="10/03/18(Wed)20:04:27")

I just ordered one, will report back when I receive it."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5080296 && dateTime=="10/03/18(Wed)20:12:13")

shame they only bother with super nintendo"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5080337 && dateTime=="10/03/18(Wed)20:32:22" && image=="PVM gets hammered.gif")

"getting my desk ready for replacement of the GDM. Photos in a bit. I need to shower and put on sneakers for the 2 story travel from up stairs storage to the ground floor table. Wish me luck anons. That beast is heavy. If I don't end up banned for terrorizing Babbage's gramps in another thread, I will be back. If you don't hear from me again, figure that it happened.

gif unrelated"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5080576 && dateTime=="10/03/18(Wed)22:53:46" && image=="20181003 GDM on desk.jpg")


if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5080628 && dateTime=="10/03/18(Wed)23:24:15" && image=="paul_newman[1].jpg")

">now know from experimentation that high resolution CRT monitors combined with shaders will produce an excellent fake 15khz image
>the same experiment was replicated with a high-end CRT projector
>and most recently with a CRT HDTV (findings to be published soon)

and the final step: CRT Rear Projection HDTV. Oh they'll call me every name in the book when I come on here and advocate for them won't they?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5080634 && dateTime=="10/03/18(Wed)23:27:34")

>Evangelion LD boxset
What player is that and what else do you have in your LD stash?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5080643 && dateTime=="10/03/18(Wed)23:36:59" && image=="Itfits.jpg")


if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5080672 && dateTime=="10/03/18(Wed)23:55:50")

That poor PC, she'll never walk again"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5080683 && dateTime=="10/04/18(Thu)00:02:49")

>That poor PC, she'll never walk again
Its not even a "pc" lol. Its a quad core I5 16gb ram monitor riser. My "pc" is on the floor to the right. I was going to turn that I5 into anything from an emulation box to a NAS server, but I already have a dual core NAS. It certainly is feeling the crunch however. Some day Ill figure out what I want to do with it, but for now it is serving its purpose well."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5080689 && dateTime=="10/04/18(Thu)00:05:07")

That is a great photo. Very very good. It took me a few moments to put it together in my head.

>This car runs on SVGA
>This monitor is porche powered

The boot and the bonnet (As you brits say) is all mixed up."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5080802 && dateTime=="10/04/18(Thu)01:33:28" && image=="IMG_20180923_013907.jpg")

The player is a CLD 925.
Apart from Eva, I have around a hundred of regular movies on LD, all of them in PAL/FR.
The only noteworthy sets I have are the Eva and End of Eva boxsets, along with the limited japanese GitS movie boxset.
I have another shipment coming from YA with the rest of the Eva series LD, along with some other stuff.
Pic related is the latest haul"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5080818 && dateTime=="10/04/18(Thu)01:44:32")

"should I get a "progressive scan" DVD player to go with my 14L5?

What about a ps3?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5080874 && dateTime=="10/04/18(Thu)02:37:27")

"is this a good place to ask about a ps2 or ps3 component cable that isnt dogshit but isnt over 30 dollars";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5080912 && dateTime=="10/04/18(Thu)03:25:02")


you can try find a HD retrovision ps2/ps3 cable. I believe they have a limited stock on amazon. I dont think they ship outside the US at this time though"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5080918 && dateTime=="10/04/18(Thu)03:34:37")

if you can find the 3-1 energizer component cables they are probably the best cables i've ever owned."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5080919 && dateTime=="10/04/18(Thu)03:35:03")

thank you very much man"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5080921 && dateTime=="10/04/18(Thu)03:36:04")


these ones."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5080963 && dateTime=="10/04/18(Thu)04:09:06")

this is even better because my ps2 is right on top of my original xbox, and my xbox component cable has frequent sync drops and bad audio buzz

thanks very much"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5080985 && dateTime=="10/04/18(Thu)04:23:53")

"I just found the only set with scart in Australia that isn't fuckhuge. It's a Daewoo. The problem is the brightness is way too high and I don't have the remote so I can't get into the menu. I tried a universal remote but I couldn't get the menu up with any code I tried.

Any ideas?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5080997 && dateTime=="10/04/18(Thu)04:29:18")

no problem. i bought multiples. they are a godsend."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5081091 && dateTime=="10/04/18(Thu)06:32:55")

smartphone remote app. There are lots of free ones, something might work."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5081124 && dateTime=="10/04/18(Thu)06:59:45")

use component instead?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5081127 && dateTime=="10/04/18(Thu)07:05:20")

"Can a UK N64 power pack be used on a Japanese N64 safely?";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5081128 && dateTime=="10/04/18(Thu)07:05:47")


if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5081134 && dateTime=="10/04/18(Thu)07:17:37" && image=="01111_hLTGecf38M0_1200x900.jpg")

"Are all Trinitrons created equal?

Some guy on craigslist is giving the one in the pic away, but I have no details on the model. It looks newer."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5081135 && dateTime=="10/04/18(Thu)07:21:23")

as far as I know black case trinitrons are older models. but a free CRT is a free CRT"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5081149 && dateTime=="10/04/18(Thu)07:49:50")

Doesn't look particularly special. The black casing probably means it's 90s. I have a 32" sony that looks somewhat similar from 1993, for reference. Also keep in mind that it looks like it only has mono sound, so you'll want a separate sound setup.

No harm in taking a look, assuming you're not traveling some huge distance. Just don't be expecting anything amazing. If you're lucky it'll have s-video input"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5081652 && dateTime=="10/04/18(Thu)13:59:38")

What model set is it?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5081681 && dateTime=="10/04/18(Thu)14:24:59")


if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5081828 && dateTime=="10/04/18(Thu)16:07:20" && image=="15386835006361227547661.jpg")


if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5081836 && dateTime=="10/04/18(Thu)16:12:39")

I like this."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5081851 && dateTime=="10/04/18(Thu)16:20:21")

my controller smells like my toes now"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5081860 && dateTime=="10/04/18(Thu)16:26:21")


if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5081872 && dateTime=="10/04/18(Thu)16:35:58")

You are the reason why I take everything apart I ever buy and use rubbing alcohol to sterilize everything that cannot go in the dishwasher.

I enjoy the decorations. I can't judge you for the way you use your controller, but I will continue to disassemble and clean.

>my controller smells like my toes now
Yep. Exactly. My soul is puking right now."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5081875 && dateTime=="10/04/18(Thu)16:37:40")

kek whats the matter, can't stand a little toe jam?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5081882 && dateTime=="10/04/18(Thu)16:42:21")

>kek whats the matter, can't stand a little toe jam?
I am not a clean freak, but I do hate what happens to used controllers. The wierd grey spooge that gets caked into all the nooks and crannies. I like to think that it is just dead skin cells, which seems like a perfect place to grow any 3rd world virus or bacteria known to man. Since every used piece of electronics smells like a mix of curry, cat piss and a paper mill, I like to try to get it as clean as possible."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5081906 && dateTime=="10/04/18(Thu)17:06:09")

I tend to clean my controllers. So no toe jam is in the buttons"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5081937 && dateTime=="10/04/18(Thu)17:24:40" && image=="8a1.png")

I am both laughing and grossed out at the same time."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5082013 && dateTime=="10/04/18(Thu)18:14:44" && image=="DSCF6410.jpg")

>fucking with fake scanlines and shaders
Why? All you need is a PC CRT and 3840x240.
They're easy and cheap to find, they're often on low hours and they give you razor sharp scanlines like the best PVMs. It's not even that annoying to set up.
Plus you get to experiment and upscale with 640x480, or even more if you have 3D games you wanna upscale, without sacrificing the CRT look."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5082027 && dateTime=="10/04/18(Thu)18:27:46")

Possibly the most retarded thing ever."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5082108 && dateTime=="10/04/18(Thu)19:23:42" && image=="image (3).jpg")

Special request to any kind anon with the means:

can someone PLEASE take a picture of the meshes in the PC port of Daytona USA running through a VGA CRT computer monitor? Here's the download since it's pretty irritating trying to find now that rom sites are closing left and right:"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5082119 && dateTime=="10/04/18(Thu)19:29:11")

are you saying to run it without the Direct3D patch for the game? since you didn't include it."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5082121 && dateTime=="10/04/18(Thu)19:30:41")

There's a direct 3D patch? Well that'd be cool to see but what I'm really interested in is the software renderer."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5082130 && dateTime=="10/04/18(Thu)19:36:16")


if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5082132 && dateTime=="10/04/18(Thu)19:37:15")

That's the deluxe edition, this is just a straight port of the Saturn version."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5082215 && dateTime=="10/04/18(Thu)20:20:30" && image=="fake.jpg")


if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5082221 && dateTime=="10/04/18(Thu)20:27:27")

any good guides on shopping for these? it would be a lot better for my setup"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5082231 && dateTime=="10/04/18(Thu)20:36:29")

If you are referring to native 240p at 120hz this will create ghosting in the image when things move on screen. Additionally it is impossible to use on large CRT HDTVs."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5082274 && dateTime=="10/04/18(Thu)20:59:58" && image=="IMG_9626.jpg")

">PVM 8044Q
>Extron 160xi
>GTX 960 -> DVI-I -> VGA -> Extron -> RGBs -> PVM
What's REALLY odd is that when hitting "test" in the nvidia control panel, everything looks fine @ 320x240, 60Hz. BUT after It saves the custom resolution and I select it, it's doubled like this."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5082293 && dateTime=="10/04/18(Thu)21:11:52")

Also realizing this was for 640x480, but regardless both have the same result"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5082298 && dateTime=="10/04/18(Thu)21:14:20" && image=="Screenshot_1.png")

And pic related is my current setting for 320x240"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5082331 && dateTime=="10/04/18(Thu)21:33:23")

fake what?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5082334 && dateTime=="10/04/18(Thu)21:35:35")

"Why were CRTs so fucking heavy? I can remember my old tube TVs and computer monitors weighing tons";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5082340 && dateTime=="10/04/18(Thu)21:42:52")

All that glass and a big transformer."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5082341 && dateTime=="10/04/18(Thu)21:43:42")

giant tube of glass, sometimes steel chassis"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5082373 && dateTime=="10/04/18(Thu)22:07:38")

that's what happens if you try running 480p to a TV capable of 480i max"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5082381 && dateTime=="10/04/18(Thu)22:10:21")

It turns you gay if you watch it."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5082382 && dateTime=="10/04/18(Thu)22:11:27" && image=="IMG_9627.jpg")

Yea but the same thing happens when I run 320x240 (except when it's "testing" the resolution, which yields pic related)"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5082428 && dateTime=="10/04/18(Thu)22:41:42" && image=="Senna.jpg")

I don't know I needed a name after I resized it."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5082513 && dateTime=="10/04/18(Thu)23:44:15")

So what are you actually trying to show us?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5082514 && dateTime=="10/04/18(Thu)23:45:17")

Nvidia control panel is fucked up and glitchy when it comes to custom resolutions

Try using xrandr."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5082519 && dateTime=="10/04/18(Thu)23:47:26" && image=="hottestmeme.png")

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5082520 && dateTime=="10/04/18(Thu)23:47:34")

Looks like nvidia drivers are doing scaling. I'd ditch what nvidia control panel is doing, use CRU, give the output new data with only 320x240 in the list, everything else deleted/deselected, and give it a new ID.

Ye, xrandr under linux just werks for me, I've got a spreadsheet to generate commands"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5082524 && dateTime=="10/04/18(Thu)23:49:28" && image=="1487571629995.png")

">tfw you give up on looking for a universal CRT for both my sixth-gen consoles and previous-gen stuff because some asshole is buying up all the BVMs and PVMs and selling them for $1k in my area
At least the HDMI plug'n'play cable I got for my GC looks really nice on my monitor, so there's that at least. My only regret was buying these component cables for it, had I known about the HDMI converter that was in the works I wouldn't be out $300. But fuck, I'll be damned if I can find anything reasonable that isn't some shitty CRT in Commiefornia or price gouged to hell."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5082525 && dateTime=="10/04/18(Thu)23:50:02")

you can do black frame insertion on top of 240p120 to get rid of the ghosting if you don't mind the 60Hz flicker. Or just run 480p60 with a scanloin shader. Both will reduce effective brightness though."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5082534 && dateTime=="10/04/18(Thu)23:56:04")

I was lucky to snag one during the time where production companies were starting to get rid of them and before retro-fetishists swooped in. I don't know how I'd cope if mine were to burn out one day."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5082536 && dateTime=="10/04/18(Thu)23:58:14")

you can still get a 14 inch for what that component cable is worth
20 inch prices are fucked, though. too hard to ship and also the cat is long out of the bag"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5082557 && dateTime=="10/05/18(Fri)00:10:18")

Black frame insertion on a CRT results in a terrible dimming of the image, I'd never use it. Shader brightness loss is acceptable, especially since you can crank contrast up to compensate for it. Or if your monitor supports high impedance mode (or maybe low, can never remember which) then you can flip that switch and get the loss of brightness back."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5082561 && dateTime=="10/05/18(Fri)00:16:22")

At least as long as some asshole keeps buying them up just to resell them to losers who can't fucking wait 3 months for a monitor that will likely outlive them."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5082573 && dateTime=="10/05/18(Fri)00:23:19")

If you live in California, what's keeping you from going to the amazing AV surplus auctions they have there? I've seen pro monitors as good as 20L5s going for $10 in them, and the only thing that's kept me from bidding on them is the fact that I'm two states away from LA."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5082586 && dateTime=="10/05/18(Fri)00:31:50")

>I tend to clean my controllers. So no toe jam is in the buttons
I still will continue to deconstruct and sterilize every component that comes into my house. I always check outdoors to verify there is no cockroaches, and if there is not, they come inside for a serious cleaning. I don't have shame, and if anything I get them cleaned and working as best as possible.

>My only regret was buying these component cables for it
You will always be able to get your money back by reselling something like that. They are in hot demand, and the value will probably continue to go up.

>I was lucky to snag one during the time where production companies were starting to get rid of them and before retro-fetishists swooped in.
I found my GDM that way....Long before they became a meme. I wish I knew about PVMs at that point, or I would have gotten a few.

>the cat is long out of the bag
If anything, it is easy to find a consumer grade CRT in large sizes. 14" is too small for my lifestyle, but I would jump on the right price for a PVM if it popped up. All I can do is keep my eyes open."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5082587 && dateTime=="10/05/18(Fri)00:32:16")

>tfw you give up on looking for a universal CRT for both my sixth-gen consoles and previous-gen stuff because some asshole is buying up all the BVMs and PVMs and selling them for $1k in my area
Keep your eyes peeled, once in a blue moon a good deal turns up.

Alternatively, get a VGA monitor and start looking into upscalers."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5082602 && dateTime=="10/05/18(Fri)00:39:18")

There's no way this venture is even economically viable. The people who do this PVM reselling shit probably have a house full of the things and they list them for fucking ridiculous buy-it-now prices on ebay that nobody ever takes the bait on. And they just keep relisting and relisting and relisting, and making zero fucking money. Maybe once in a blue moon you actually have someone retarded enough to drop a fucking G on a decades-old boob tube."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5082604 && dateTime=="10/05/18(Fri)00:40:03")

"Question: Has anyone purchased an RGB-modded NES and was it worth it?";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5082610 && dateTime=="10/05/18(Fri)00:45:15")

whats the site though?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5082626 && dateTime=="10/05/18(Fri)01:01:58")

Just Google "AV Surplus Auctions" along with other keywords and plenty of websites will turn up."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5082629 && dateTime=="10/05/18(Fri)01:05:34")

">own a 14" and 20" pvm
>own a 29" Nanao arcade monitor
>own tons of consoles and a dedicated arcade cabinet

>recently got a nice oled tv
>have a decent sound system
>set up an emulation pc that boots into launchbox
>decent scanline filter
>using retroarch's runahead feature
>games sound great, look fantastic on an oled with the same vibrancy and black levels as a decently calibrated crt without any imperfect geometry, and runahead is making (at least nes and snes) games near just as responsive as on actual hardware

G-guys. Help"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5082634 && dateTime=="10/05/18(Fri)01:11:40")

the NES is honestly the only system I wouldn't go for the RGB modding as it's not native in any format and a pain in the ass to do it yourself. just get an AVS instead and use an hdmi-rgb converter if you want the same experience. best part is you can modify the firmware to change the color palette to your choice too

i'm pretty sure it's a similar case for the super NT in regards to SNES hardware but i don't have one

>t. guy who RGB-modded his NES"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5082642 && dateTime=="10/05/18(Fri)01:22:26")

Differentfag here. I'd love to RGB mod my NES and have it look as crisp as an emulator, but I just can't justify the expense. 100 for the board and then having to worry about either doing a botched DIY job or sending it to someone else to do, who will certainly charge a pretty penny for his services."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5082660 && dateTime=="10/05/18(Fri)01:35:29")

"Are Viewsonic monitors any good? What should I be looking for in a computer crt monitor, just a rebranded trinitron?";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5082667 && dateTime=="10/05/18(Fri)01:43:44")

"Anyone in florida want to roll the dice?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5082691 && dateTime=="10/05/18(Fri)02:00:19" && image=="1506532671472.png")


if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5082705 && dateTime=="10/05/18(Fri)02:13:53")

"Has anyone ever heard of AOC, a computer monitor manufacturer?";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5082736 && dateTime=="10/05/18(Fri)02:41:32")

Good for you mate, and enjoy it while the rest of us can.
I honestly think that LCD was a black mark on display technology, and overall a step back from CRT for the sake of convenience and cost cutting, but OLED, other than being a fixed pixel display, is much better."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5082891 && dateTime=="10/05/18(Fri)05:30:43")

a lot of us are making these same realizations"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5083173 && dateTime=="10/05/18(Fri)09:25:17")

Seems fine to me"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5083178 && dateTime=="10/05/18(Fri)09:28:09")

I'm going to continue to enjoy my CRT, but when microLED becomes widespread I think that may be the end
>all the benefits of OLED + no organic materials so no decay or burn in
4K microLED + framemeister set to 720p with scanlines = perfect scaling and amazing picture


if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5083274 && dateTime=="10/05/18(Fri)10:42:47" && image=="1536978236629.jpg")

"Does anyone know why the onscreen menu on a pvm would yellow? I'm talking about the white letters that come up on the screen when you change the volume or any other setting. The on screen menu just seems darker in general, but the picture on the tube is otherwise the same. Also, the volume seems to be dying, if that's of any help. (Maybe the two are linked?)";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5083278 && dateTime=="10/05/18(Fri)10:44:07" && image=="IMAG0691[1].jpg")

"i'm trying to adjust my Trinitron, but i don't know what this:

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5083557 && dateTime=="10/05/18(Fri)13:29:37")

Hey screw you man, stop complaining. At least there's a steady supply of BVMs and PVMs in your area. I've only seen them for sale in my area two or three times in the past six months."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5083558 && dateTime=="10/05/18(Fri)13:31:28" && image=="SonyPVM20301-1024x812.jpg")

"The 2030 is the most choice PVM of all";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5083568 && dateTime=="10/05/18(Fri)13:36:26")

>no BNC RGB or component inputs
>have to use a nonstandard 26-pin monstrosity
I love the way the case of the 2030 looks, but no thanks."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5083572 && dateTime=="10/05/18(Fri)13:39:47")

>cant get a simple cable and it will take any scart just fine
If youve got scart why would you want any other connection, it has s video too"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5083582 && dateTime=="10/05/18(Fri)13:45:33")

>judging a set solely on the basis of its ease of connections.
you can make a 15-pin D-sub to CMPTR input adapter cable for about ten dollars.

Once you do that the PVM-2030 has one of the most beautiful images you'll ever see. Better than later PVMs."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5083584 && dateTime=="10/05/18(Fri)13:47:08")

Interesting, didn't know that. Well I'll add it to the list for monitors to keep an eye out for, I'm happy with my 14-inch PVM and 20-inch Ganz security monitor for now."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5083585 && dateTime=="10/05/18(Fri)13:47:42")

Nothing wrong with buying a CRT from 1992."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5083605 && dateTime=="10/05/18(Fri)13:57:13")

This is the key item
Also the tv has a built in amp for audio"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5083632 && dateTime=="10/05/18(Fri)14:09:05")

I legit want to lick that controller. More pics please."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5083684 && dateTime=="10/05/18(Fri)14:33:34")

The D series is not HD. This is a curved 240p/480i set with component. I have one and theyre really damn good."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5083708 && dateTime=="10/05/18(Fri)14:47:32")

"What's the word on Panasonic BT CRTs? They look pretty similar to the Trinitrons.";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5083716 && dateTime=="10/05/18(Fri)14:48:59" && image=="s-l1600[8].jpg")


What a rip-off. You can buy a cheap RGB SCART cable and a DB25 breakout board for less than $8 shipped. Cut the end of off of the SCART cable, strip the wires, and then put them into the breakout board and then tape it all up to hold. PVMs can receive audio through the CMPTR connector so you can wire that up too, but you can also splice an RCA cable and put that into some unused pins of the 25 pin connector so you wouldn't have to solder there either. (but really you ought to just solder the audio wires together properly, it's not that hard)."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5083727 && dateTime=="10/05/18(Fri)14:54:13")

Quality monitors often overlooked and comparatively underpriced due to muh pvm. Also look out for JVC, they have some quality units."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5083789 && dateTime=="10/05/18(Fri)15:32:15")

Yeah, wookiewin's shit is all overpriced as fuck."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5083790 && dateTime=="10/05/18(Fri)15:33:14")

BT-H line is a clone of JVC DT-V
flat glass, aperture grill, no stock input."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5084004 && dateTime=="10/05/18(Fri)17:35:22")

Chinese crap, a 1080p LCD set I had died only after a year and a half, and thei tablets suck ass"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5084012 && dateTime=="10/05/18(Fri)17:41:44")

search for your models service manual"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5084102 && dateTime=="10/05/18(Fri)18:24:20" && image=="pvm-2950q.jpg")

>The 2030 is the most choice PVM of all

Consider the following:
>7 extra inches of screen
>Component support
>no DB25 meme inputs"

if(Kya !kDashing02 && title=="" && postNumber==5084138 && dateTime=="10/05/18(Fri)18:39:05")

No component support, but can always go searching out a 3230 as well."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5084341 && dateTime=="10/05/18(Fri)20:05:08")

"I found this monitor in my mom's attic that only has a db9 port but my graphics card only has digital ports. Would there be any noticeable input lag or loss of video quality by using a db9 to dvi-d adapter?";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5084445 && dateTime=="10/05/18(Fri)20:53:22" && image=="71PnIYMZdhL._SL1500_.jpg")

What are peoples' experience with figuring out the best way to switch between different RGB sources without having to manually plug/unplug SCART cables? I'm seriously confused regarding the various SCART switchboxes out there, with people saying they're all trash unless you get some expensive custom one. And I'm not paying 100+ dollars just to avoid cable switching.

Is it true that you can use the cheap ones so long as you open it up and cut the voltage line to prevent interference?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5084524 && dateTime=="10/05/18(Fri)21:27:53")

"I might be being a brainlet, but I got a 4 way component switcher for really cheap at a thrift store and it has s video, component, and composite. My crt only has s-video and composite, if I get component cables and output using s video to the TV I will have signal degradation to s video quality correct? I want to get an s video cable for the original xbox (not retro) but they seem somewhat uncommon so I could just get component instead.";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5084528 && dateTime=="10/05/18(Fri)21:31:03" && image=="crosspoint.jpg")

Extron Crosspoints are cheap as shit and professional quality."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5084545 && dateTime=="10/05/18(Fri)21:38:01")

"Walking in the suburbs and saw 2 curbside crt's, one was a curved Toshiba with the fledgling 'colorstream' component and a pleasant chassis. Too bad I didn't have a car, I would have saved it.";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5084547 && dateTime=="10/05/18(Fri)21:38:22" && image=="Panasonic FT2700.jpg")

Panasonic, JVC, NEC, Mitubishi and Ikegami are all better than Sony's PVM/BVM monitors."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5084549 && dateTime=="10/05/18(Fri)21:39:24")

Those Toshiba's are kick ass."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5084578 && dateTime=="10/05/18(Fri)21:57:00")

That would require me to get SCART-to-BNC adapters for every single console in addition to the 50-80 dollars for the matrix switcher itself. Not exactly solving the issue."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5084580 && dateTime=="10/05/18(Fri)21:58:34")

Are you outputting to a monitor which accepts BNC?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5084602 && dateTime=="10/05/18(Fri)22:08:28")

Let me go spend a fuckton of money on BNC breakout cables for every single console. Oh, and and a bunch of those RCA audio breakouts since the extrons don't use RCA audio jacks. All to avoid paying for a more expensive scart switcher, when my entire point of contention was price."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5084620 && dateTime=="10/05/18(Fri)22:15:50")

God damn anon SLOW DOWN"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5084623 && dateTime=="10/05/18(Fri)22:16:40" && image=="phoenix-adapter-03.jpg")

Okay, buy a $200 SCART switcher and $35 SCART to BNC adapters for every console as well as $40 SCART cables on each console if a $25 extron crosspoint is too expensive for you."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5084669 && dateTime=="10/05/18(Fri)22:39:48")

Even if that were true, they're much less common. Especially ones with RGB input. The few times I see non-sony professional monitors, whether on ebay or in the wild, they're almost always the ones that are composite/s-video only. What a waste."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5084671 && dateTime=="10/05/18(Fri)22:42:30")

I'm not sure if you're trolling or just retarded. You only need a single SCART to BNC adapter if you're using a SCART switcher. If you're using a BNC switcher, you need SCART to BNC adapters for every single console."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5084673 && dateTime=="10/05/18(Fri)22:44:37")

stop switching systems so often"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5084762 && dateTime=="10/05/18(Fri)23:26:06" && image=="tm91.jpg")

"Just picked up an Ikegami TM9-1 as my first monitor for cheap online (other set is a 27" JVC D series). Absolutely love it for my coffee table setup. Only problem I found is that the screen is slightly tilted. Doesn't bother me too much but seems like it would be easy to fix with a little know-how. I read the manual and it says nothing about a service menu. Anyone have any input on this?";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5084767 && dateTime=="10/05/18(Fri)23:27:37" && image=="Mitsubishi Diamond Pro 37.jpg")

open it up and rotate the yoke

Their rarity makes them all the more legendary. If you have to settle for a Sony, so be it."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5084772 && dateTime=="10/05/18(Fri)23:28:28")

don't they have SCART in Australia?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5084774 && dateTime=="10/05/18(Fri)23:29:24")

The 2950qm has ypbpr"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5084782 && dateTime=="10/05/18(Fri)23:32:34")

maybe if you're using a setup while involves BNC you shouldn't use SCART because it's just a waste."

if(Kya !kDashing02 && title=="" && postNumber==5084869 && dateTime=="10/06/18(Sat)00:14:43")

I know; I was talking about the 3230.
Downside over the 2950 is no Component support, upside is BIGGER and slightly higher TVL.

2950 having explicit support for PAL60 and a 16:9 toggle is pretty handy though."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5084995 && dateTime=="10/06/18(Sat)01:35:09")

That image was literally me in '92 in college but with a mullet and a cassette boom box next to me. Good times dog.
But as far as your TV is concerned, it's probably bad/bulged capacitors somewhere. Or maybe a bad cap is leaking and causing trace corrosion? Maybe a ribbon cable or some connection being bad? No way to know without ripping the fucker apart and anyone who's worked on CRTs will tell you how dangerous it is. The first time I tried to RGB mod an old POS consumer TV I ended up in the hospital because of a shitload of electricity still lingering in the TV. I'm not trying to scare you or anything, just know what your doing. Godspeed my dude."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5085012 && dateTime=="10/06/18(Sat)02:06:06" && image=="gdm clock.jpg")


It never looks right in photos. I am lacking the anti-glare coating, and I think this contributes to it. Got a quick pick of a screensaver earlier tonight & I think it really highlights the color and depth. This photo actually looks like what is on the screen pretty accurately."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5085181 && dateTime=="10/06/18(Sat)04:35:37")

"Are there any advantages to dots over slots?";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5085470 && dateTime=="10/06/18(Sat)10:08:57")

"So I stumbled upon this toshiba miniature TV/DVD-player combo, screen's probably about 9". It's absolutely nothing special whatsoever, but I decided to open it up to take a look inside, and I noticed some sort of pin connector going from a circuitboard where I think the DVD portion of the device is, with 4 wires going to the tube. Red, green, blue, and yellow wires.

Which leads me to believe that this little piece of shit might be going straight RGB from the DVD player to the TV, and it looks like I could easily tap into that. I think I'm going to try to disconnect it and see if I can hook it up with BNC connectors and see if that works. Not going to do any miracles, but I've only ever seen the thing outputting via composite"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5085564 && dateTime=="10/06/18(Sat)10:52:57")

finer dot pitch, and also just looks better."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5085682 && dateTime=="10/06/18(Sat)11:30:43")

"Will I die if I try to rotate the yoke while its on to actually see how much im turning";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5085695 && dateTime=="10/06/18(Sat)11:38:06")


Looks pretty safe based on this:

Though I'd feel safer with a glove and trying to use only one hand. Just don't touch the anode cap."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5085718 && dateTime=="10/06/18(Sat)11:48:27")

Damn its so much easier than on mine
Theres huge motherboards on all sides making reaching in almost impossible"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5085968 && dateTime=="10/06/18(Sat)14:02:47")

this post is illogical"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5086119 && dateTime=="10/06/18(Sat)15:17:19")

Unless you're in euroland that DVD is encoded in component color space, and those are not rgb"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5086124 && dateTime=="10/06/18(Sat)15:20:10")

You bought a switcher, not a converter. No.

Also transcoding any signal to S-Video is a fairly undesirable conversion and is usually expensive for decent results."

if(Kya !kDashing02 && title=="" && postNumber==5086215 && dateTime=="10/06/18(Sat)16:22:26")

Being in Europe doesn't change DVD as a standard. It's still MPEG2; 4:2:0 YCbCr/YUV internally. It's not impossible, but I doubt the DVD player portion would be converting to RGB before passing it over to the TV side. I'd expect it's jungle to just be able to accept YPbPr and send it off to the neck like anything else."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5086216 && dateTime=="10/06/18(Sat)16:27:23")

>this post is illogical
When I take a photograph of the monitor, the blacks which are black appear almost grey. The "anti-glare" coating works by keeping external light from distorting the colors in this way. I removed it because it became scratched on a belt buckle while carrying it. Always protect your glare coat. I have tried to source a Circular polarizing film, but cannot find a piece large enough to cover the glass entirely."

if(Kya !kDashing02 && title=="" && postNumber==5086230 && dateTime=="10/06/18(Sat)16:43:40" && image=="DSC04655ARW.jpg")

>The "anti-glare" coating works by keeping external light from distorting the colors in this way.
Getting quality photos of a set whether it has an anti-glare coating on it tends to do best in low light anyway."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5086384 && dateTime=="10/06/18(Sat)18:32:42")

>Getting quality photos of a set whether it has an anti-glare coating on it tends to do best in low light anyway.
This is true, but I was really inspired by the OP's ability to capture the color of his monitor, while still being in a room with good lighting. It doesn't help that I am using a 2012 cell phone, or that the "subject" is a CRT. Just getting a clear picture is sometimes tricky.

have a (you) OP. I have possibly 5-6 posts already, and I have to comment that you have done a great job showing your monitor, and its quality. I also re-loaded diablo II and am playing through for old time's sake."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5086396 && dateTime=="10/06/18(Sat)18:44:50")


if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5086563 && dateTime=="10/06/18(Sat)20:30:49")

where do you get phoenix adaptes like that? I'm sick of chopped up rca cable ends."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5086565 && dateTime=="10/06/18(Sat)20:33:12")

RGB internally wouldn't be that weird, the conversion is trivial when you're already doing DVD decoding. I've also seen s-video used internally.

DVD players with RGB SCART out are reasonably common in yuroland"

if(Kya !kDashing02 && title=="" && postNumber==5086574 && dateTime=="10/06/18(Sat)20:37:07" && image=="DSC06845ARW sc se Dual.jpg")

>while still being in a room with good lighting.
While it isn't true in this case, some of the shots that have a particularly well lit room but still with a properly exposed picture are actually composite images; Taking two separate photos of the same scene, except with one to get exposure for the room (lights on) and one to get proper exposure for the picture on the screen. Remove the terribly under exposed portions of the second photo, align it with the first and then adjust transparency to blend the two together.

The OP is a composite image, but instead of being two different photos, it's the same image with two different color balances applied. One to deal with the light coming from the ceiling light, and then one to deal with the light coming from the CRT itself. It's not impossible to get both to look right in one go, but is definitely more difficult.

Anywho, thanks for the (You).

I'm assuming it's older? If so, if you think a slow ass r60 Thinkpad (Core Duo T2400 paired with an X600) running XP, I might be able to give it a shot.

Didn't mean it'd be weird, just odd; Well aware of the S-Video bit though."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5086584 && dateTime=="10/06/18(Sat)20:44:19")

>I'm assuming it's older
It's a game from 1996, anything above a Pentium shouldn't have any problem running it."

if(Kya !kDashing02 && title=="" && postNumber==5086590 && dateTime=="10/06/18(Sat)20:49:17" && image=="DSC02293s.jpg")

Still worth checking, considering how trash this laptop can run sometimes."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5086628 && dateTime=="10/06/18(Sat)21:11:09" && image=="bleeding edge.jpg")

"What would cause smearing/ghosting on a PVM like this? Is this a symptom of one or more Capacitors going bad?";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5086743 && dateTime=="10/06/18(Sat)22:23:02")

are you seriously the same person asking again?
I know the pic is from the guy complaining about the ebay seller, but still..."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5086748 && dateTime=="10/06/18(Sat)22:26:19")

it's your cables. try wiggling around the connections on your console and tv. if that doesn't fix it you might need a better cable"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5086772 && dateTime=="10/06/18(Sat)22:45:26")

There's been posts before showing before/after cleanup of ghosting by changing caps."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5086846 && dateTime=="10/06/18(Sat)23:25:14")

while using my feet to play the controller I let out a massive wet fart that smelled like steak and cheese. Then all of a sudden I thought of Shaquille O'Neal"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5086848 && dateTime=="10/06/18(Sat)23:26:07" && image=="28_Apple-Studio-Display-21-BlueWhite.jpg")

"A year or so ago someone was asking in /crt/ about those Apple 21 inch studio monitors. The OSD is a software that only runs on early OSX or mac classic. You can't change any of the OSD settings without the USB+vga talking with the software.

Did anyone ever find out how to bypass this? I would guess once you set it up, it would remember the settings per resolution. I feel like VM is the solution but dammit I hate fucking with a VM for a few hours to find out it will never work.

I have one of these and no resolution fills the screen because the idiot I bought it from 6 years ago replaced the battery after tossing his G4."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5086853 && dateTime=="10/06/18(Sat)23:29:39")

"Is there a general fix for a tube that is not as in focus around the outer parts of the image, but shaper closer to the center?";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5086864 && dateTime=="10/06/18(Sat)23:37:03")

>The OP is a composite image
OK, that makes a good bit of sense. I wondered, but just assumed you knew some magic with your camera and lighting that I was not attuned to. Very good trick, and thanks for filling me in on the methods. Either way, you picked a game that I played continuously on a pentium III 800mhz until my first Dual core AMD. There was no need to upgrade from 1998 until nearly 9 years later. Some people get screen burn in from constant display of objects....My eyes have burn in of the health and mana orbs."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5086941 && dateTime=="10/07/18(Sun)00:28:42")


The plastic part is what you want to touch. I've read sometimes they can be energized slightly.
Also be careful of the terminals at the 12 o clock position at the top (usually four of them). Not every crt has those insulated or a plastic cover over them."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5086971 && dateTime=="10/07/18(Sun)00:42:48")

>Did anyone ever find out how to bypass this?
Just buy an old mac. Fucking around with a VM will probably end up not working."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5087027 && dateTime=="10/07/18(Sun)01:18:54")

>.My eyes have burn in of the health and mana orbs.

If I had decent lighting in here, I could likely get both in the same shot and with the same exposure. I don't, and doing a composite image is just easier and more reliable."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5087101 && dateTime=="10/07/18(Sun)02:15:18")

"where do i go to shot for a tv stand
everyone is all for wide flat screens i want something fat and narrow for TVs"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5087162 && dateTime=="10/07/18(Sun)03:10:18")

"Does anyone know how to get into service mode on a Daewoo?";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5087584 && dateTime=="10/07/18(Sun)09:46:39")

I bought something similar to this for my 20" consumer set:"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5088220 && dateTime=="10/07/18(Sun)14:59:23")

"What are the thoughts on projection tvs
Ive got a Sony WEGA KDS-60A2000
60 inch and has hdmi vga s video component the works and looks amazing for new and old"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5088285 && dateTime=="10/07/18(Sun)15:24:53")

Use emulation to bring out the best in it. You need to pre-scale with Retroarch + shaders. Real hardware hooked up via the televisions internal scalers will look like dog shit. Emulation with the right settings will be a top tier image."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5088294 && dateTime=="10/07/18(Sun)15:27:19")

"or better, don't waste your time on rear projection PoS";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5088351 && dateTime=="10/07/18(Sun)15:51:55")

Idiotic post. There is plenty good to be brought out of a rear projection CRT, especially one that "looks amazing" in his words so that means it's still in great shape."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5088474 && dateTime=="10/07/18(Sun)16:40:50")

>Then all of a sudden I thought of Shaquille O'Neal

Dude, I've been playing Shaq-FU recently, even today. Please post more pics, it's too much of a coincidence to be chance."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5088773 && dateTime=="10/07/18(Sun)18:24:23")

Dynamic convergence"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5088870 && dateTime=="10/07/18(Sun)19:13:12" && image=="1538008589529.png")

Laugh at me boys

Got an advanced av pack with s video, ran it through the component switcher and there was audio and video interference, so I thought the cords were faulty. Thought I could just splice other cable ends on so I cut the cable

Turns out it was just the component switcher, connecting direct to TV was fine. Good thing I kept the video intact so all I need to do is buy another red and white stereo audio cord.

Pic related"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5088964 && dateTime=="10/07/18(Sun)19:56:19")

Nice meme."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5089035 && dateTime=="10/07/18(Sun)20:29:47")

Nothing wrong with rear projection as long as you understand the technology and keep realistic expectations. The main problems you run into with them are focus, convergence, and burn-in issues. If you manage to find a good unit that doesn't have too much of these problems then they will excellent in low-lighting conditions. With a huge screen and zero lag if it's an older one.

If it's an HD unit then all the same caveats apply you would have with a direct-view CRT HDTV. One thing to look out for: forced bilinear filtering on SD input. You will have to go into the service menu to turn this off. Or not bother with it and send prescaled video like has already been suggested.

Lag on RCA and Sony rear projection CRT HD units is very low. Probably about 2 frames, so they are suitable for non-critical duties.

Split-screen multiplayer via emulation could be interesting on a HD set. You can increase internal resolution, and at 1920x1080i each player would have a good viewing area."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5089049 && dateTime=="10/07/18(Sun)20:34:51" && image=="504pio.1.jpg")

However, unfortunately this set is not a CRT. It's an LCD rear projection TV. Still a great television and most of the same concepts apply, but it's not a CRT.

This is a CRT rear projection HDTV."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5089075 && dateTime=="10/07/18(Sun)20:44:30" && image=="00707_jbyZ0FX3wb8_600x450.jpg")

and here is one for free

These are disappearing from the world. Not even retro gaming enthusiasts want them (but they should). It's a shame, really."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5089084 && dateTime=="10/07/18(Sun)20:47:42")

Hmm, thanks. I'll be sure to be careful when I do open it up."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5089098 && dateTime=="10/07/18(Sun)20:57:23")

what benefit would it yield over a pure crt projector?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5089139 && dateTime=="10/07/18(Sun)21:20:30")

CRT projectors are notoriously fickle and hard to calibrate beasts. If you're not planning on putting them into a permanent bolted-down home cinema room I would not bother with them. They need a pretty good throw distance to get the most out of them. They can work at short distances, but you will have slightly blurry corners. A lot of them are quite loud as well."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5089146 && dateTime=="10/07/18(Sun)21:26:11")

Guessing that would be on a circuit inside the tv, instead of a service menu item?"

if(Kya !kDashing02 && title=="" && postNumber==5089154 && dateTime=="10/07/18(Sun)21:35:06")

Doesn't need as much room to install, and shouldn't need as much fiddly adjustments to get thing converged (at least workably converged) since it has a relatively set throw.

RP CRT sets are exactly the same thing, just installed into a box with a screen and set up for a very short throw, which is why RP CRTs tend to be rather blurry.

Still putting together a guide/table of sorts, but for working out what sort of set a given model is, this is a good thing to go by.

Sony Specific, obviously.

First Block of Letters:
KV = CRT Television, NTSC Tuner
KX = CRT Monitor, no Tuner
KD = CRT Television, Digital (ATSC) Tuner
KW = Widescreen CRT Models (Uncommon)
KP = CRT Rear Projection
KDP = CRT Rear Projection with Digital (ATSC) Tuner
KWP = KWP-65HD1, Wide CRT Rear Projection
VPH = CRT Projector
CVM = Color Video Monitor
PVM = Professional Video Monitor
BVM = Broadcast Video Monitor
SSM = Surveillance (and) Security Monitor
GVM = Graphical Video Monitor
PHM = HDVS Picture/Viewing Monitor
HDM = HDVS Master Monitor
PGM = Upscaler Expansion stuff
HMD = Home Media Display
CPD = Color Professional Display
GDM = Graphical Display Monitor
DDM = Data Display Monitor; Here be Dragons

Non-CRT Prefixes
KF = LCD Rear Projection
KE = Plasma
KZ = Plasma (Euro?)
KLV = LCD with NTSC Tuner (with exceptions)
KDE = Plasma with Digital (ATSC) Tuner
KDL = LCD Flatscreen
KDS = LCoS Rear Projection with Digital (ATSC) Tuner
VPL = Other Projection Tech (LCD and LCoS)"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5089162 && dateTime=="10/07/18(Sun)21:40:44")

if your tv has a service menu, the menu likely has a dynamic convergence adjustment. If not, then you would probably have to put magnetic strips on the tube itself to help things converge"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5089181 && dateTime=="10/07/18(Sun)21:54:23" && image=="IMG_0561.jpg")

"Do all crts have convergence rings? This shitty apex doesn't have them unless someone removed them. Yoke looks glued too. Thomson tube.

Screen will be good practice to buff out scratches since it definitely has some. tl;dr it is real beat up and dirty."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5089185 && dateTime=="10/07/18(Sun)21:56:57")

apparently a few brands of crt calibrate a convergence device at the factory and then lock it in so it is nonadjustable"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5089205 && dateTime=="10/07/18(Sun)22:16:14")


Ah I see, thanks.

This one is a silver apex, but I used to have a black apex from 2003 that look ok. Same size 27".

Oh well. This tube is beat to shit anyhow. The convergence is pretty bad everywhere except dead center. I just wanted to mess around with it but its not even worth it."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5089207 && dateTime=="10/07/18(Sun)22:18:07")

>DDM = Data Display Monitor; Here be Dragons
what do you mean by this"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5089220 && dateTime=="10/07/18(Sun)22:26:03")

he probably means either
>they're really cool (they are)
>you'll never find one"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5089224 && dateTime=="10/07/18(Sun)22:27:32" && image=="P_20181007_192444_vHDR_On.jpg")

"Got a free 1954q today, already have better monitors like an ikegami htm2050ra1 but it's pretty cool. Just need to fix the neckboard, has broken traces.

Grandia on Saturn really is gorgeous."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5089229 && dateTime=="10/07/18(Sun)22:31:32")

and we've hardly got any information about them"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5089302 && dateTime=="10/07/18(Sun)23:13:09")

VM might be possible if it was still supported in Intel OS X."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5089385 && dateTime=="10/07/18(Sun)23:54:54")

"Are those little 8-9" PVMs worth it? Kinda curious what their picture looks like since they're so small. And I figure it'd be a neat thing to have on a desk. I already own a 20" PVM though.";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5089392 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)00:02:29")

"I actually went into my first CRT today, so what is the reality of the chances of dying from electrocution from them?";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5089409 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)00:15:45")

unless you can get it cheap not really.

flyback and annode cap are the dangerous parts, practice safety around them"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5089414 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)00:18:23")

Do those parts actually kill you if you touch them? I was using rubber-tipped gloves and wore rubber-soled shoes which I was inside but I'm still curious what they can hold. I was only adjusting the yoke, but the internal of the CRT still interests me."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5089418 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)00:21:09")

In theory it could, I've mostly heard stories of people losing control of their bowels or getting painful shocks, even after discharging. The thing is, what if you have a heart condition you don't know about? That electric shock could be enough to stop your heart. That's the concern of death."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5089421 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)00:23:52")

That's actually very interesting. Kind of weird we haven't had a video yet of some dude dying due to touching the innards of a CRT television."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5089427 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)00:26:32")

It probably doesn't happen very often at all. I'm surprised there's not plenty of people getting shocked unexpectedly or even losing control of their bowels, stories at least."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5089440 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)00:40:56" && image=="5669286589_2539ce0707_b[1].jpg")


if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5089448 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)00:47:00")

Maybe there aren't stories because they're all dead."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5089452 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)00:49:46")

the thing is Sony is easy to document. When you get to things like the Ikegami HTM-3203 or the Panasonic AT-H3017W, or the Mitsubishi Diamond Pro 37. Shit just doesn't seem to exist in any meaningful quantities."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5089453 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)00:50:04")

It doesn't matter. If it doesn't have the magic letters RGB and PVM printed on the case they don't want it. Normies don't want GDMs or televisions."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5089456 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)00:51:06")

You can find some stuff through the wayback machine and"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5089495 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)01:29:35" && image=="20181004_184651-5312x2988.jpg")

"KV-27FS320, Megaman X Collection on PS2";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5089504 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)01:33:28" && image=="bangs.jpg")

">Had a portable CRT as a kid
>No idea what model
All I remember is it had a 2-3 foot antenae, & must have had Composite in cause I played mario bros. on it constantly. Flat rectangular design. grey I think. I want to say it was like 6-8 inches high, & a foot & a half long. Might have been a sony. Anyone know a model that matches this? Might have had a built in radio too, but that could have been me tuning into analogue TV channels. Also it had a circular nob on the side."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5089513 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)01:40:08")

it's fucking Barq's you Troglodyte"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5089519 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)01:46:33" && image=="Front.jpg")

>Not kicking back with a nice Bang & Olufson CRT"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5089605 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)02:44:05")

by all means get them as you please
RPCRTs have limited viewing angles because of fresnel lens."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5089614 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)02:59:17")

meme brand, bullshit prices"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5089629 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)03:09:56")

>RPCRTs have limited viewing angles because of fresnel lens.
If you sit > 90 degrees from the TV. Don't do that. It's a non-issue."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5089636 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)03:15:43")

let me guess, you have an RP that you're currenty selling."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5089646 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)03:20:20" && image=="Battlestation 2018-10-07.jpg")

"Because I took a photo of the battlestation:";

if(Kya !kDashing02 && title=="" && postNumber==5089669 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)03:49:26")

I am well aware.

The issue with those are finding manuals at all, but that's an issue with nearly anything that isn't a Sony. The JVC/Panasonic sets are lucky to have some service manuals and the like available, or at least some sort of info. SOME Mitsus have info while other are forgotten, and then Ikegami which doesn't have shit.

The portion that would actually be useful from that isn't terribly hard to put together. That being the first few, the PC bits, and the PVM bits, and a combination of wikipedia's FD trinitron page, sony's site, and a couple minutes in google can get you all of that.

The only strange/uncommon ones are the DDMs, HDVS sets, and the PGM; The former of which no one is ever going to come across or really be able to use, and the latter of which are limited in their uses. You'll either know what you're looking for, or if you confuse it for a PVM, then people can point and laugh at you over why your SNES won't work on it.

It's the middle part that is going to need work put in. Sure, figuring out the newer (M, S, V) models forward is easy but everything before that just seem so jumbled you'd almost think someone was just had a really bad game of scrabble.

You've got:
VXR(likely known)
AD (likely figured out)

and then for end letters:
L(admittedly used later)
RS(not to be confused with the other RS)
RX(not to be confused with the other RX)
CR(Pretty sure figured out)

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5089731 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)04:53:04")

I posted a link to one of the elite models that is currently being given away for free. If you can't sell that you can't sell any of them.

Read critically next time."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5089732 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)04:54:59")

>limited viewing angles
>not an issue
you too"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5089753 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)05:33:24")


if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5090179 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)10:56:13")

"Anyone who knows of a good HDMI to RGB-SCART converter? I wanna watch modern content on my CRT and I don't want to be stuck with burning DVDs.";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5090187 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)10:58:43")

>bullshit prices
They're pretty plentiful in Scandinavia and are at least in Denmark and Sweden they tend to be fairly cheap also. If you live anywhere else they're likely not something I would recommend getting though."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5090295 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)11:57:02")

They're cheap plentiful and generally well cared for in the UK too.

The remotes? Not so much. Then again I have a Logitech Harmony so IDGAF."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5091097 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)18:49:50" && image=="00C0C_lmFsgnNHwZx_1200x900.jpg")

"Would you buy 2 of these for $50 each?";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5091101 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)18:50:22" && image=="00X0X_jRLH3Ghpcc7_1200x900.jpg")

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5091146 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)19:17:44" && image=="trinitron_kv_14m1a_1630327.jpg")

"Hey i'm looking for a CRT TV with an RGB-SCART input to use with an MSX computer and there's a Sony KV-14M1A being sold locally. Anyone know if the SCART at the back accepts RGB or if it's just an S-Video thing?";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5091270 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)20:15:24")

"tfw havent turned on my bvm since i got the super nt back in february";

if(Kya !kDashing02 && title=="" && postNumber==5091279 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)20:18:49")

Any set with just a single SCART connector on it is going to have RGB."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5091324 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)20:39:17" && image=="IMG_2104.jpg")

I think we're the only console crt fags on this board"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5091404 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)21:35:47")

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5091405 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)21:36:31")


Does anyone know anything about this set? Era, model family, application? I'm probably going to buy it if only because it has RGB inputs, but I've never seen some of the stuff on this set so I'm kind of thrown for a loop. It's definitely older but that's all i can gather."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5091419 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)21:45:23")

It's a PVM-1910 and it is an excellent set. You should not hesitate to buy them both for $50 because they are worth quite a lot more than that.

In terms of image quality they have a very bright and powerful image that is among the very best you will ever see for a classic game, but have lower TVL counts than later PVMs, which actually makes old games look better.

Don't pass on them, you'll regret it."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5091427 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)21:52:39")

Nice! Yeah, I'm going to pick them up.I spoke to the seller and he said he's hold on to them for me. He runs a prop rental house and said he has a "stack" of 8" too if im interested.
I'm not sure if the second one is the same model, or if there is a second one. The seller just said he thinks he has 2, both 19" but wasnt 100%. I told him I'd take them both and would look at an 8". What's happening to me, i went from no crts 3 weeks ago to possibly having 6 buy the end of the week.
That's me too. The JVC is fucking tits."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5091431 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)21:56:26")

re: application

It's 15khz only, no HD functionality at all. 100% analog, no on-screen display.

Line A = composite video and possibly s-video (unless "tuner" is something else)

RGB = true RGB. Not component video.

Sync is C-sync or combined sync. I can't remember if composite video sync is supported, but I believe it is not.

Absolutely zero input delay. You will not find lower in the world.

Best used to play games from the 80s or 90s. Especially good for arcade games from the time that were designed for RGB output. Games like R-Type, Street Fighter 2, King of Fighters, Gradius, Ghouls n' Ghosts, and Metal Slug will look absolutely amazing on this through RGB."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5091441 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)22:03:38")

When you get out and start looking for them they're out there and usually if you find one there's a good chance you'll find more. The people who complain they can't find any are looking in the wrong places."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5091463 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)22:11:12")

Yeah, the JVC was free from a friend and there might be another free monitor coming from a different friend. LA/ the valley is littered with rental houses and studios. I haven;t resorted to going door to door but its tempting. The guy i met with today about the pvm-1910 said he has 3 warehouses. The one we were in was filled to the brim with a/v equipment . He said most of it was gutted and used as props, but he said he definitely has plenty of old working gear. He bought out CBS' stuff when they were liquidating old stock."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5091624 && dateTime=="10/08/18(Mon)23:27:47" && image=="IMG_20140825_222315.jpg")

Sony helpfully labels their SCART inputs according to what they can input and output.

The top socket in this example has composite in/out (arrows pointing both ways) and S-Video in (S). The bottom one again has composite in and out but also RGB in (three dots).


if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5091701 && dateTime=="10/09/18(Tue)00:17:03")

"Can I use component cable to plug into rgb inputs if I use a coaxial/rca adapters?";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5091730 && dateTime=="10/09/18(Tue)00:36:11" && image=="thing.jpg")

"I have a white PVM 1271Q like pic related. I've been thinking about what I want to do with it.

I had thought occasionally to make a cocktail cabinet out of it. But that seems a shame considering how nice the exterior of the monitor looks. So I guess I will build a bartop out of it instead.

But instead of a traditional bartop that is all one unit, my plan is to create a pedestal with controls and computer hardware built inside, and then place the PVM on top of it, with some holes in the top of the pedestal for the PVM's feet to notch into.

What do you think of this concept? I believe this rather abstract concept gets the idea of what I am talking about across. The bottom would be painted light gray with black controls to match the PVM color scheme."

if(Kya !kDashing02 && title=="" && postNumber==5091741 && dateTime=="10/09/18(Tue)00:42:15" && image=="DJcvxvbW0AAi4zv.jpg")

>and possibly s-video (unless "tuner" is something else)
It uses the same sort of tuners as the Profeels did. VTX-100 and VTX-1000 for examples. Composite, Audio, and control one one DIN connector.

It'd look something along the lines of Sony's early 80s computers. I like it."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5091790 && dateTime=="10/09/18(Tue)01:04:15" && image=="genesis baseball scared.jpg")

"Figure I'd ask this here since there's no /techsupport/ thread and the guys here are the most likely to know something. I have a model 1 genesis (non-HD-graphics, no ext port on back) that's stopped working. I was playing Ecco and the screen glitched out and then froze probably about 30 seconds in, with glitching graphics. Then I try it again and with various carts and it keeps freezing at the TMSS screen. Then I stop getting anything at all.

At first I assumed it was a faulty voltage regulator. But I checked both 7805s with a multimeter and they're working fine as far as I can tell. I also tried two different first-party genesis 1 AC adapters and also tested them both and they're both functioning properly. And I'm no soldering guru by any stretch of the imagination, but I checked the bottom board for any obvious dry joints or other issues like that, and everything seems fine in that regard. No obviously fucked up caps or anything either. I've also tried RF, composite, and RGB with no success getting a signal on the screen, but the TV does seem to recognize that there's a signal coming from the TV. I've also hooked in headphones as a final check to make sure it's not just some sort of video problem.

And lastly I've tried a ton of different games and none work. Black screen every time.

If I can't get it working it's not the end of the world, but this baby is my original genesis and I'd like to get it back in working order if possible. But at this point I have no clue what's causing the issue."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5091994 && dateTime=="10/09/18(Tue)04:42:46")

I have not stumbled upon a single SCART-equipped TV set that didn't accept RGB."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5092303 && dateTime=="10/09/18(Tue)10:37:14" && image=="37ABDD00-13CC-4C20-9393-1770DF3DEBAE.jpg")

They’re cute meme novelties, and can actually be usable if you make it a point of keeping them close to your face.

That said with the current prevailing price on eBay, you’re better off paying a small premium to get to 12”-14” unless you live in a closet or are deathly allergic to using two hands to hold a tube."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5092373 && dateTime=="10/09/18(Tue)11:13:32")

"What's a good console to hook up to that pvm-1910? I've already got the Playstation hooked up to a different pvm and an snes hooked up to a jvc through scart. I'm thinking a model 1 genesis is about the best I can do with 350tvl +rgb with no input lag.";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5092420 && dateTime=="10/09/18(Tue)11:38:53" && image=="747211-faroudja_system_ld100_super_ntsc_rgb_line_doubler.jpg")

"some dude in my area has an faroudja ld 100 for sale. not sure what to offer off the bat for it.

it is strictly a line doubler so 480p max res output i believe.

I hope to use the vga out and connect that to extron 1:4 vga and then to multiple vga crts simultaneously. obviously not strickly for vidya but the transcoding of the most popular analog inputs to rgbhv / vga would enable any console to be presented at 480p.

I am unsure however how it would handle a 480p input like a ypbpr wii. if it at least transcodes it then sweet. If i do get it it will probably make me go crazy and buy an svhs deck because I am confused about what year it is and '''''''''major advances in the av world''''''
faroudja is a funny word and launch price of like $15k makes me think $50 will get me this ez pz."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5092591 && dateTime=="10/09/18(Tue)13:19:02" && image=="1370674569220.jpg")


if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5092604 && dateTime=="10/09/18(Tue)13:29:10")


if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5092620 && dateTime=="10/09/18(Tue)13:39:50")


if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5092647 && dateTime=="10/09/18(Tue)13:55:52")


t. author of that copypasta which I am not going to post"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5093008 && dateTime=="10/09/18(Tue)17:01:46")

"Are there any statistics on the prevalence of skin conditions of all kinds over time? If the x-rays are what cause my skin to be so clear, there should be a bump when CRTs fell out of fashion.";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5093016 && dateTime=="10/09/18(Tue)17:04:48")


So the stuff i've been reading about "RGB televisions are rare, get a Sony PVM" and "you need to mod the TV by hijacking the OSD lines" is a bunch of rubbish for americans that don't have SCART on almost every TV set?"

if(Kya !kDashing02 && title=="" && postNumber==5093020 && dateTime=="10/09/18(Tue)17:06:02")

>a bunch of rubbish for americans that don't have SCART on almost every TV set?
Pretty much. Europe has plentiful and easy access to RGB displays."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5093029 && dateTime=="10/09/18(Tue)17:08:56")

Japan too, they had JP21 and that weirdly shaped port."

if(Kya !kDashing02 && title=="" && postNumber==5093031 && dateTime=="10/09/18(Tue)17:10:41")

JP21 wasn't on everything like it was on Euro TVs, but still far easier access than the Americas."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5093039 && dateTime=="10/09/18(Tue)17:12:24")

I've heard RCA had SCART on some of their sets, but it's unclear if these took RGB or not. Those are pretty rare though."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5093049 && dateTime=="10/09/18(Tue)17:18:43" && image=="sony-kv-21sp1-for-playstation.jpg?w=353.jpg")

What's weird is that a TV released specifically for the PS1 was advertised as having an RGB input, but used some kind of weird proprietary cable for it."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5093056 && dateTime=="10/09/18(Tue)17:24:58")

the connector is the same as the PS1, can build an adapter for JP21/SCART/whatever to it pretty easily."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5093062 && dateTime=="10/09/18(Tue)17:27:30")

they didn't want it to be used with other consoles"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5093064 && dateTime=="10/09/18(Tue)17:30:21")

specs say interlaced in only so I suspect 480p Wii in won't work. manual suggests it's doing some fancy deinterlacing so may add lag and/or have issues with 240p"

if(Kya !kDashing02 && title=="" && postNumber==5093139 && dateTime=="10/09/18(Tue)18:01:18")


The RCA Dimensia. And no, it doesn't have RGB wired up. Someone on neo-geo uploaded some photos of the manual several years back, and it explicitly states that it's only wired up for composite video and not RGB. Sadly, they got deleted at some point.

That said, there is at least one Sony model that seems to have been sold in the US/Canada in some small numbers which does have a fully wired SCART input; Specifically, the KV-3400, which seems to have been marketed as a Profeel in certain regions. All for the wonderful price of $2700 in 1994, or ~$4600 today."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5093313 && dateTime=="10/09/18(Tue)19:25:20")

>you think of this concept?
I think it would be cool."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5093390 && dateTime=="10/09/18(Tue)20:28:32" && image=="20181009_170100.jpg")


Alright boys, I went and picked it up today. I'm very glad that I did. The old guy had tons of CRT monitors, but i only picked up one today. He has them in a different warehouse across town, so he just took a bunch of pictures. Most of the monitors are a little older, I didn't see any Ikegami or JVC models; but he did have some pretty nice high-end computer monitors. I bought the 1 PVM-1910 and gave him another $50 bucks for a PVM-2030 he had at the other warehouse, it was one of the ones he had a picture of. I hate to be a flipper, but I'll probably sell the 1910 for $100 and end up with the 2030 for free. Like I said, most of the stuff was older so I didnt jump and offer him a wad for the lot. I paid him upfront for the other monitor because I was worried that now that he has pictures of the stuff, he might go and post the rest of them on craigslist."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5093546 && dateTime=="10/09/18(Tue)22:22:50")

"Does anyone know what the pinout would be to connect a playstation to a 25 pin CMPTR connector?";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5093578 && dateTime=="10/09/18(Tue)22:43:26" && image=="IMG_20181009_212655_1.jpg")

"Can I do anything with this? Its a 19" Trinitron. Sorry for stubid question";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5093597 && dateTime=="10/09/18(Tue)22:55:43" && image=="20181009_224851.jpg")

"Found this rca truflat outside. Been testing snes games on it and everything looks pretty nice. Are these considerd good for retro?";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5093613 && dateTime=="10/09/18(Tue)23:05:38")

Look up the model number and check the specs. What kind of inputs does it have? I've heard anons complain about flat screens having bad "geometry" but i still don't know what they mean."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5093617 && dateTime=="10/09/18(Tue)23:08:38")

It's a 20F511T and it has three composite and 1 s-video input"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5093646 && dateTime=="10/09/18(Tue)23:30:06")

It's nothing special but the s-video should be serviceable for most retro. The price was right and you kept it from the dump for now, not bad anon."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5093667 && dateTime=="10/09/18(Tue)23:44:15")

Hold on to the PVM 1910. It might not seem exciting now but as you get further in this hobby it's the one you'll have wished you kept."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5093668 && dateTime=="10/09/18(Tue)23:46:06")

I will be pedantic here and remind everyone (as if they really need it) that millions upon millions of CRT PC monitors were "RGB".

But of course that's not what we're really talking about here."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5093671 && dateTime=="10/09/18(Tue)23:50:25")

Also if you -really- want to sell it then I'll buy it off of you for $100 + the shipping cost."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5093680 && dateTime=="10/09/18(Tue)23:54:43")

I'll assume that was meant for me and keep that in mind. I'm mostly concerned with space. I also already have a couple of arcade machines so i'm not too into playing arcades games on a table top set."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5093743 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)00:37:49" && image=="neckboard.jpg")

"So how do you think I should approach this one? Use paper clips for bridging? At least it was free.";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5093823 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)01:33:24")

why not wires?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5093834 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)01:38:47")

It's a good beater to take to fighting game tournaments or gatherings. And no, I'm not just talking about Smash."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5093867 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)02:04:48")

sure I could do that too."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5093884 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)02:20:22" && image=="$_86[1].jpg")

I'm about to take the easy way out for a cab build by using a Dell PC monitor. I think these might be the easiest high-quality monitors in the world to get a hold of. And they are completely accurate to the arcade too, so long as the game you are playing was meant for 31khz."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5094045 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)04:59:44")


It's dead, Jim... I would not trust any repair carried out on a board like that, especially on a high voltage component"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5094048 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)05:03:13")

>letting a monitor go to waste because "oh no SCARY VOLTAGES"
That can be fixed"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5094062 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)05:28:56")


I'm not saying let it go to waste, just that if you can't do a proper repair it's probably best not to try. You could get it to work, but the longevity and safety of such a repair is questionable, long-term. It's possible to find a replacement neck board listed somewhere or use the monitor for parts to fix another one. High-voltage boards are designed to a spec to prevent contacts from arcing over to eachother - note the slots that are routed between some of them from the factory.

Some cracks can be repaired, but if you somehow reduce that clearance when attempting to glue together a jigsaw puzzle this bad, running wires with insufficient insulation and/or snaking around other contacts there, you're gonna have a bad time. There's also large chunks of the groundplane that are completely snapped off from the rest of the board, you would have to bridge them not just with a wire, but the full surface area if you want to sufficient grounding comparable to the way it was."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5094071 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)05:39:52")

>they are completely accurate to the arcade too, so long as the game you are playing was meant for 31khz
Not that i think you mad a bad choice, but if you think a lot of games were made for 31kHz specifically you're in for a surprise."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5094328 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)10:10:11")

"Have any of you guys ever used the db25 connector on a pvm for a console? I can't seem to get a proper wiring diagram on the db25 side, all I'm finding is a db25 to Playstation controller pinout.
Also, I need to add 220uf capacitors into every rgb line, right?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5094348 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)10:35:47")

It’s fixable if you have the skill and the patience. I’d put it aside and have a go at it on a lazy day."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5094358 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)10:44:38")

>db25 to Playstation controller pinout
That definitively has nothing to do with the the db25 on PVMs. DB25 has been used for a lot of things, most notably PC parallel ports and Amiga serial ports."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5094385 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)11:02:15")

Yeah, I'm not trying to use it for the Playstation controller. The db25/CMPTR connector seems to be the rgb connector on the 2030. There are scart to db25 adapters available but I'm more than capable of making a cable, I just can't find the proper pinout."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5094397 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)11:20:13")

"Anyone know what would cause a sort of ghosting effect on a CRT that looks like the tail of a comet? There's a very subtle effect like this on my PVM that can be seen if there's a colored background with something bright over top. For example, a purple sky with snowflakes or other white spirtes traveling down, you'll see a very faint band to the right of each white snowflake. It doesn't happen on black backgrounds and it's too faint for my camera to pick it up, or I'd post a picture. I also tried hooking up the game console to my LCD monitor via component transcoder, and I don't see any of the effects, so I don't think it's an internal problem with the console or in the SCART cable.

Which means it's either a problem in the PVM or the SCART-BNC breakout cables I'm using, right? For reference the system I'm using to test this is a Model 1 HD-graphics Genesis. I know systems like the SNES have inherent horizontal blurryness to them anyhow.

It's really not that big of a deal and only visible in very specific situations, but I really just want to know if this comet-tail-like banding is a sign of my PVM failing or something. I'd rather not find out that my monitor is failing and then have to pay the PVMeme prices that I see nowadays. 400-500 bucks for a decent sized monitor, good grief."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5094408 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)11:29:27")

"Jesus Christ, I can't stop running into cheap monitors. I just found a pvm-14L1 for $25. 600tvl but no rgb.";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5094416 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)11:38:53")

That's the worst feeling in the world. Pro monitor? Good price? Decent size? Oh, it only takes fucking composite and s-video, th-thanks.

Honestly for 25 bucks it's still worth it though."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5094421 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)11:40:58")

Yeah $25 is still worth it I can't keep buying every monitor that I come across but I also don't want to let scalpers get a hold of them or let them get scrapped."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5094430 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)11:51:03")

You could alwayys see if anyone on /vr/ who's nearby needs a halfway decent monitor. Something like that would still be good for stuff like unmodded N64/Gamecube via S-video, for example.

I'm still blown away that PVM scalping is even a thing. You'd think it's so niche that it wouldn't be a viable business venture."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5094450 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)12:03:50")

Yeah, I don't get it either but I guess you only have to catch a couple of rubes to make it worth it. I can kind of see how someone would be tempted at taking a stab at it though, I can't seem to avoid them at this point."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5094479 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)12:22:04")

I can't see it at all. Imagine the logistics of being a PVM scalper. Constantly searching high and low for these old things and then storing them in your house/storage taking up a fuckton of space, for the once-in-a-while time where someone actually pays your ridiculous ebay prices, and then having to deal with the nightmare of packing and shipping these things."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5094482 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)12:23:22")

At 14" s-video is good enough. No, really. It is.
But if you've already got half a dozen similar sets then you should pass and let the next guy have it."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5094487 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)12:25:48")

Try it with multiple systems and types of video cables. If it's still there over the composite input, or if you try another system then it is the CRT.

But I bet it is the cables. It sounds like signal ghosting. Strange to see it with low resolution."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5094492 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)12:29:02")

Oh, I never imagined shipping the stuff. Yeah, that sounds horrible. I just imagined buying them up and storing them and having a running ad on Craigslist. Theres a guy here in LA that operates like that and I'm sure he just buys from old studios or rental houses.
Yeah I'm going to pass on it. It's 50 miles away so a bit to far, but my girlfriend goes to school out there so I might be able to get her to pick it up. Shit, it might even be being sold by the school. I see their ads up on surplus auctions all the time. I agree with you about 600tvl svideo being enough. I've had 500tvl and 750tvl monitors hooked up with svideo and thought they each looked great, with one of the monitors being 15"."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5094505 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)12:38:23")

Enough were made to keep me occupied for a while."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5094508 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)12:40:16")

Yeah, I think it's the cable. The PVM can take component and I have a transcoder, so I hooked it up that way and then daisy chained it to my LCD monitor too. The ghosting is no longer present. Since both methods use the same console and SCART cable, that leaves the SCART-BNC adapter as the odd man out. I also tried it with my Saturn and got the same faint effect. With SNES I see banding but it's hard to tell if that's just inherent of the 2-chip SNES's shitty output.

It's a good quality cable though, or at least I thought. I got it from either or retro_console_accessories on ebay a few years back, I forget which of them. Any recommendations on where I should look for a better one? Or any easy way to fix the issue myself?

If not,it's honestly not that big of a deal. I've apparently gone this long without even noticing it, after all. I'm just glad I think I ruled out the PVM failing."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5094510 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)12:42:35")

Ohio? Also what surplus sites are you browsing to find these things?

I have a good-sized PVM myself, but I'd like to get another one that's desk-sized that I could use right next to my PC setup. If I could find one local for reasonably-cheap, I'd go for it, but I can't justify ebay-tier prices+shipping just for a secondary monitor."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5094525 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)12:53:42")

I'm in LA, but use govdeals and publicsurplus to browse around."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5094560 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)13:18:07" && image=="Screenshot_20181010-181553~2.png")

Literally 30 seconds on google"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5094683 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)14:43:57")

Yeah sorry, I tried Google but realize now I was looking for the info in the absolute wrongest way. Anyway, is there a good source for Sony style multi av connectors or am I stuck cannibalizing a good ps2 cable?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5094707 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)15:01:05" && image=="bYq6iR3[1].jpg")

For a basic cab of joysticks and buttons I found:

Soul Calibur 2
Soul Calibur 3: Arcade Edition
Hard Dunk
Tekken 4
Xtom 3d
Asian Dynamite
BlazBlue Calamity Trigger
Cosmic Smash
Dengen Tenshi Taisen Janshi Shangri-la
Demolish Fist
Guilty Gear X and all following revisions
The Rumble Fish
The Rumble Fish 2
The King of Fighters XI
The King of Fighters Neowave
Capcom vs SNK
Capcom vs SNK 2
Marvel vs Capcom 2
Power Stone
Power Stone 2
Virtua Tennis
Virtua Tennis Smash
Plasma Sword
Project Justice
Raiden III
Raiden IV
KOF Sky Stage

before I got tired of looking for games. There are probably a lot more. If you add a gun to the set-up you double the game list."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5094740 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)15:21:30" && image=="41YfwM664GL._SX385_.jpg")

I have never found a source for the connectors on their own.

Official PS3 S-Video cables are probably the cheapest source of good quality Multi-AVs, plus you get a couple of awesome metal RCAs into the bargain."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5094809 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)16:09:06")

Not that guy, but is there a device out there that's meant to make 15.7kHz signals compatible with 31kHz monitors? It seems like it should be totally doable."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5094815 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)16:16:08")

Any old line doubler should do that."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5094817 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)16:19:34")

find the service manual for the model and post a link, you might be able to rgb mod it but I'm not doing the legwork of looking up the service manual.

I found a smaller one on the curb a couple weeks ago, seems to have a good picture and component. You can't change inputs without a remote, but luckily I had a universal that worked.

It's fixable but damn I think I would try to source the board and drop it in.

I think it's called phosphor decay and is perfectly normal unless it's very pronounced."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5094819 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)16:23:21")

As someone who uses this exact set, I can say that these are the shit."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5094846 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)16:39:29")

Know any good cheap ones?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5094864 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)16:48:51")

I'm afraid not. I assume you need VGA? I'm looking for a solution myself. Best seems to be a retrotink2X or OSSC with a lagless DVI/HDMI->VGA converter."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5094893 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)17:05:48")

Or just emulate"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5094895 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)17:08:38")

A dedicated 31khz racing cab would be a good project too."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5094906 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)17:15:44")

"Not single CRT for sale at the UK Public Surplus Auction yesterday. Rather depressing.


I'm glad they're finally putting the photos online instead making me drive an hour over to see what's there.

Years ago this place was a treasure trove."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5094918 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)17:26:46")


Damn that’s super simple and comfy. I love it"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5094936 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)17:36:15" && image=="s-l1600[1].jpg")


Caution: might lag"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5094942 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)17:38:10")

this thing actually rocks with custom firmware"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5094950 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)17:41:33")

I can absolutely do it. It's for a 1954Q and I'm gonna get it fixed.

>It's fixable but damn I think I would try to source the board and drop it in.
sure, got any spares lying around?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5094958 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)17:46:09")

the problem I can see is that there aren't big planes on which you can solder for board consolidation.
The right solution might be to just OSHPark the whole thing"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5095014 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)18:26:31")

AFAIK changing component to VGA shouldn't cause any lag. VGA is basically the same as RGBS but with Sync divided into two lines for horizontal and vertical. And I know Comp-RGB transcoders are zero-lag, so this shouldn't be either. Unless it's doing any sort of upscaling or whatever in addition."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5095076 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)19:04:08")

What can you do with the custom firmware?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5095079 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)19:06:53" && image=="megaman_2.jpg")

"nestopia @ 3840x240 on shadow mask vga monitor";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5095081 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)19:09:30")


if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5095091 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)19:14:20")

discussion is at shmups forums"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5095130 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)19:34:48")

I just need the psx side connector with all the pins in place, anything ps2/ps3 should be good enough . I might go third party if only because some of those look to be easier to pry apart."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5095242 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)20:42:54")

you are talking about >>5086628
it is said to be capacitor related, but nobody really knows how to fix it
people sure do ask all the time, though"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5095265 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)21:01:03")

That's similar to the effect that I have, except
1) the "tail" is lighter, not darker
2) it's only a tiny fraction as prominent
3) it was minimized when I went SCART-Transcoder-Component inputs rather than SCART-to-BNC, meaning it's probably an issue with the cable."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5095271 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)21:05:06" && image=="Hbol3Gd.jpg")

Went and got the monitor today for $5 at a local thrift store. It has some burn in from the previous owner not extending their image to the edge of the tube.

Not my pic, from this project

I have another identical one in storage I might pull out and use instead if it is still good.

Here's hoping this will have a metal cage surrounding it that isn't attached to the plastic housing, making it possible to de-case the monitor. Doesn't make a huge difference to me, but it feels more arcade-y to look down into the machine and see a bare CRT instead of just a generic PC monitor.

Back-up plan: using a Sony HMD-A440 that I know for a fact will come completely out of the plastic case intact."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5095283 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)21:12:49")

it is a scaler, and tries to do some fancy deinterlaing."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5095286 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)21:13:56")

"Does anyone have experience using a vga to s video converter to use a CRT tv as a second monitor? Is there any lag?";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5095290 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)21:18:02")

It will work as long as your software is set-up correctly. But it is tricky."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5095291 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)21:20:03")

Software on the pc and not the actual convertor itself right?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5095364 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)22:09:09")

Yes, and you must make the right hardware choices with your PC if you want to preserve 240p correctly"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5095370 && dateTime=="10/10/18(Wed)22:11:07")


if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5095671 && dateTime=="10/11/18(Thu)03:12:21")

Do these have the "death grip" problem where the connectors are too tight and can destroy some ports on the consoles' end and on the RCA end?
I heard from an Amazon review that it has a "death grip".

Been looking on getting these since I'm looking to buy a PS2 and a Wii."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5095680 && dateTime=="10/11/18(Thu)03:16:04")

sounds like bullshit"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5095730 && dateTime=="10/11/18(Thu)04:36:13" && image=="ixos_x11.jpg")

Try some IXOS RCAs then come back and tell us it's bullshit.

Those things are tighter than a Scotsman's wallet."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5095803 && dateTime=="10/11/18(Thu)05:43:16")

I think the whole death grip thing is dependent on luck of the draw. Ive got a few monster cables that are notorious for being very tight but not all of them are like this"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5095812 && dateTime=="10/11/18(Thu)05:49:19")

fuck no they're not. They only populate the pins used for that cable - so you can't build an RGB cable out of composite or S-video one like in your pic. This is with the pack-in cables, anyway."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5095880 && dateTime=="10/11/18(Thu)07:06:12")

The S-Video cable has all pins present, albeit not wired up.

Trust me, I'm a hoarder."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5096027 && dateTime=="10/11/18(Thu)09:03:04" && image=="bbc-micro-model-b-master-electron-rgb-scart-cable.jpg")

"How feasible is it to take a shitty cheap SCART and turn it into a good one DIY? Is it as simple as slicing open othe outer sheath and putting something for shielding around the individual wires inside?

It'd be great if I could get 5 dollar chinkshit cables and then make them as good as the 40 dollar cables from the UK site."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5096181 && dateTime=="10/11/18(Thu)10:52:07")

you can reduce some problems by using csync or luma as sync."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5096185 && dateTime=="10/11/18(Thu)10:55:16")


I have monsters cables like that. Solution is to bend the outer ground shielding a little bit."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5096195 && dateTime=="10/11/18(Thu)10:59:40")

Believe me I tried that. The collars are machined from solid with relief slots cut to allow the tiniest bit of flexibility.

Nice quality but definitely not thoughtfully engineered."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5096210 && dateTime=="10/11/18(Thu)11:10:16")

Im not referring to changing the sync type, but reducing crosstalk and stuff like that"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5096223 && dateTime=="10/11/18(Thu)11:18:19")

the biggest crosstalk is caused by using composite as sync 3.57 / 4.43 mhz subcarrier. If the composite cable is not shielded you'll get jailbars or checkerboard.
Both luma as sync and pure sync don't have a subcarrier."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5096243 && dateTime=="10/11/18(Thu)11:35:55")

Given the use of csync already, can I add shielding to scart cables myself to turn cheap ones into good ones?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5096250 && dateTime=="10/11/18(Thu)11:41:31")


if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5096327 && dateTime=="10/11/18(Thu)12:43:41")

Feasible, but you'd definitely spend more than $35 of your own time doing it, assuming you're starting with zero skill."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5096626 && dateTime=="10/11/18(Thu)14:41:56")

"If a CRT only has 350 TVL, and the CPS2 has a resolution of 384x224, does that mean the CRT can't resolve the full detail of the game?";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5096797 && dateTime=="10/11/18(Thu)15:38:28")

TVL are line pairs, so CPS2 would only require 192 TVL"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5097241 && dateTime=="10/11/18(Thu)19:33:06")

Rated TVL is in terms of total lines, not pairs. It's also per picture height, not across full width."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5097283 && dateTime=="10/11/18(Thu)19:57:25")


does it resolve all the pixels or not"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5097295 && dateTime=="10/11/18(Thu)20:03:32")

Not extreme sharp, but yes."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5097304 && dateTime=="10/11/18(Thu)20:07:37")

So why do people care about having 500+ TVL, wouldn't it be better to have less so you don't have as thick of scanlines"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5097308 && dateTime=="10/11/18(Thu)20:09:36")

because some people like the extreme sharp and scanny loins"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5097478 && dateTime=="10/11/18(Thu)21:35:04")

And some people don't, like me. Which is good because it's cheaper."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5097492 && dateTime=="10/11/18(Thu)21:46:32" && image=="IMG_20181011_1957540.jpg")

"Recently acquired a Trinitron KV-1222RS from 1983. The only input is RF but I don't particularly mind, because it's what I used as a kid.
And on 13", the image looks just fine."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5097494 && dateTime=="10/11/18(Thu)21:46:56" && image=="s-l1600.jpg")

"Just for fun let's talk about some ebay CRTs. Just to keep the conversation going.

First one: This Barco 12" medical monitor, intended for use with an ultrasound machine.

Barco has a reputation for making some of the best CRT projectors in the world. I would assume a medical monitor produced by them would built to the very highest standard.

Input appears to be a 5-pin connector similar to what you would find on a computer motherboard, but that should be no issue to adapt.

This thing is probably not 15khz or even 31khz. It's probably a fixed frequency high resolution monitor, maybe XGA aka 1024x768.

Good for /vr/? Depends on what you're doing and how you feel about different topics. I wouldn't hesitate for a second to use it in a cocktail mini-arcade cabinet. But it may be better for /v/ gaming and playing indie games in that form factor."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5097508 && dateTime=="10/11/18(Thu)21:52:36" && image=="$_57.JPG_5a531e9917e7f9.60676747.jpg")

Over the air video is about equivalent to composite video in a best-case scenario.

To get the most out of this monitor you would need to send it a signal OTA. There are home UHF transceivers you can buy on ebay for $50 if you ever wanted to try it."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5097512 && dateTime=="10/11/18(Thu)21:55:32" && image=="s-l1600 (1).jpg")

"DotX 29" video wall monitors.

$300 each or best offer.

They were used in a video wall of a nightclub. If they don't have significant burn-in or wearing they would be excellent for /vr/."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5097517 && dateTime=="10/11/18(Thu)21:59:54" && image=="IMG_20181012_015914-01.jpg")

"Turns out, getting a scanline filter to line up properly on a SXVGA monitor is an absolute bitch. Cheaper and more versatile than a proper 240p set at least.";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5097534 && dateTime=="10/11/18(Thu)22:07:54" && image=="20181011_210349.jpg")

My poor (fucking nice) sharp tv. I have to take the back off and fix it when I'm not feeling so lazy. No idea the brand of this cable, but it looked "high quality". Monster are also tight, but if you twist while removing they let loose very well."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5097567 && dateTime=="10/11/18(Thu)22:21:40")

>Turns out, getting a scanline filter to line up properly on a SXVGA monitor is an absolute bitch
This should work automatically if you have your emulator set to exact multiple scaling."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5097568 && dateTime=="10/11/18(Thu)22:22:13")

"Any advice on using a universal monitor chassis? I've got what I think is a good tube from my cab, but the chassis is fucked. The guy I got it from reported fuzziness and intermittent flickering, which from reading sounds like probably bad caps. But the chairs looked like it was lived in by a squirrel by the time I got it.

My order obvious question is: are there any reports of using a universal chassis on a standard tv tube, turning an old TV into an arcade monitor?"

if(Kya !kDashing02 && title=="" && postNumber==5097626 && dateTime=="10/11/18(Thu)22:43:00")

Analog OTA Video IS RF. Just being broadcast rather than being sent from a local source directly.

Introducing a video sender into the mix would just mean more places to have the quality reduced even further.

Getting the best quality out of that would just be a matter of getting a decent quality modulator to take whatever composite+audio input you cared to use with it, and pump it to the VHF antenna connector on the back. It's all the same baseband composite + audio signal, modulated for transmission no matter what. All you're trying to do is feed it to the TV as cleanly as possible, and a direct connection is going to be much more reliable than setting up a transmitter."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5097678 && dateTime=="10/11/18(Thu)23:17:08")

"Is there a way to play my SNES mini on a PVM though scart?";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5097694 && dateTime=="10/11/18(Thu)23:34:24" && image=="s-l1600[1].jpg")

Would something like this work for that? How would it differ from the old RF adapters systems used?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5097703 && dateTime=="10/11/18(Thu)23:39:58")

Which mini are you referring to?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5097716 && dateTime=="10/11/18(Thu)23:46:46")


if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5097731 && dateTime=="10/11/18(Thu)23:59:34" && image=="dywtkm.gif")


Is it as safe as this guy says? Coincidentally I took a CRT safety cert course about eight years ago and while I passed, it scared me right the fuck out of ever sticking my hand in one of these things while it's on."

if(Kya !kDashing02 && title=="" && postNumber==5097768 && dateTime=="10/12/18(Fri)00:39:01")

I can't speak for the quality of any particular device.

It's doing the same exact job as the RF adapters do, regardless of whether they're external or internal to the system; The only matter is what level of quality you get out of it, and in the case of that one in particular, if you wanted to push it over a certain channel. Something dedicated like that would be useful for stuff that doesn't have go to RF option though

That model, over the coaxial connection, would be fine with your standard channel 3/4 from any old RF cable.

I wouldn't know how it's wired up internally or what have you, but finding a way to potentially mod it for Composite + Mono Audio could also be an option, but not sure if you'd want to do that to a nice old set like that."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5097772 && dateTime=="10/12/18(Fri)00:44:36")

There are hdmi to scart adapters"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5097776 && dateTime=="10/12/18(Fri)00:46:49" && image=="636px-CAVSystem60Flyer2.jpg")

Rear projection was used in a lot of arcade machines, so it puzzles me why /vr/ takes such a dump on them. If you start digging into the history of Japanese arcades it becomes apparent a lot of people have a limited view of video gaming history in the west."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5097784 && dateTime=="10/12/18(Fri)00:51:44")

Whether or not these systems have a great image or not is kind of irrelevant to me. Any pleb can create a razor sharp image with a small production monitor + the appropriate video source.

Someone who took an old rear projection TV and adapted it into a home-made Megalo set-up would be the guy who wins big respect from me as a CRT enthusiast. That would take a lot of space and dedication."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5097789 && dateTime=="10/12/18(Fri)00:52:50" && image=="arcade_taito_11.jpg")


if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5097897 && dateTime=="10/12/18(Fri)02:12:03")

Rear proj was the only way to have big screens.
Rear proj fared super bad if the arcade was decently lit
All rear proj cabinet end up with credit count, insert coin and life bars burned in for good
literally no one seeks rear proj cabinets even if they have ample space, that should tell you something. If they do seek them it's for joystick panels"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5097902 && dateTime=="10/12/18(Fri)02:13:14")

>rear projection
m8y I have news for you"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5098029 && dateTime=="10/12/18(Fri)05:00:54")


The perfect thing for a supervillain's hideout"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5098168 && dateTime=="10/12/18(Fri)07:42:15")

I'm using RetroArch image overlays, not filters. No automatic scaling, but no performance hit either."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5098267 && dateTime=="10/12/18(Fri)09:12:27")


if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5098304 && dateTime=="10/12/18(Fri)09:41:57")

what game is this?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5098348 && dateTime=="10/12/18(Fri)10:08:24")

Metal Slader Glory. English translation finally came out a few months ago."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5098437 && dateTime=="10/12/18(Fri)10:52:01")

It's still rear projection. Did not say it was a CRT."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5098445 && dateTime=="10/12/18(Fri)10:56:48")

>Rear proj fared super bad if the arcade was decently lit
Which is why some cabs had blackout curtains.
>All rear proj cabinet end up with credit count, insert coin and life bars burned in for good
I've seen lots of them that didn't have significant burn-in, and when they are new they naturally do not have it. I like to think of arcades in their hey-day when the machines were new and shiny as much as I like the idea of machines with a patina on them from heavy usage.

Taking a machine design and making "better than it ever was" is also appealing."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5098776 && dateTime=="10/12/18(Fri)14:39:02" && image=="fucking hell.png")

">Found a PVM-20M4U locally
>It's too fucking sharp
You guys telling me RGB monitors past 600 lines would look fine for 240p content might want to re-think that opinion. Don't get me wrong, it's great, & I'm glad I didn't pay out the ass for it; BUT, a 600 line PVM like an M2 model looks WAY better for 240p content. The scanlines are simply too thick once you go past 600 lines."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5098885 && dateTime=="10/12/18(Fri)15:58:48")

"PVM 20L2 is NOT worth $500 correct? Saw an ad on CL for that. eBay seems to be a bit more expensive.";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5098895 && dateTime=="10/12/18(Fri)16:06:40")

Ew nigga, don't pay that much. You'll just encourage scalping. They pop up all the time for dirt cheap. Get creative with your search techniques."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5098920 && dateTime=="10/12/18(Fri)16:27:11")

"there's a free TV that has component in. Do retro games work with component?";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5098947 && dateTime=="10/12/18(Fri)16:37:48")

Got any search strategies?

Let me guess, it's that one faggot who puts the sonic title screen on every single PVM/BVM/etc listing and wants a grand for an old ass tube screen? I hope to god nobody actually gives that fag any money.

Earliest consoles I know of that natively support component are PS2/Gamecube/Xbox. However, you can take an RGB signal and convert it to component with one of those little transcoder boxes. They cost like 40-50 bucks and you don't have to worry about upscaling or latency or any of that. This is what I use since PVMs are either horrendously priced or impossible to find."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5098949 && dateTime=="10/12/18(Fri)16:37:54")

Get it"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5099090 && dateTime=="10/12/18(Fri)17:38:39")

Search crt, tube tv, old TV,broadcast, monitor, Sony TV, jvc, Panasonic, 19", shit even TV and just cruise through the ads. Don't skip ones with no pictures, sometimes those are the best because it's an older person and/or no one else is jumping at them. Try all the services, offerup, letgo, Craigslist. If you're really fucking looking for one :
If you have any film production related businesses in your town it doesn't hurt to swing by and talk to them."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5099093 && dateTime=="10/12/18(Fri)17:42:14")

Thanks senpai, I appreciate it."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5099223 && dateTime=="10/12/18(Fri)18:51:52")

hd retrovision has snes and genesis and ps1 component cables"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5099257 && dateTime=="10/12/18(Fri)19:15:48")

Those aren't the systems outputting component. Those systems are outputting RGB and then there's a RGB-Component transcoder inside the cable.

Those are perfectly fine solutions if you just own one or maybe two systems and want higher quality output. But if you have a lot of systems, it makes more sense to get a single transcoder that can be used with all RGB-enabled systems, rather than paying a high premium to have transcoder cables separately for each system."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5099442 && dateTime=="10/12/18(Fri)21:13:52")

heh somehow I knew it was in phoenix
I'll sell you my 14L5 for 500 LOL
but honestly you'll never find any here, especially at a fair price. just drive to LA and buy one there"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5099762 && dateTime=="10/13/18(Sat)01:11:05" && image=="comfy or hipster.png")

">PS2's audio buzzes when I turn up the volume
>RGB colors change if the scar cable isn't plugged in firmly
>Noticing checkerboard pastern when playing DVDs
Looks like I need a new Euro Scart cable if I want to finish Fear Effect. What's the best PS2 scart cable I can buy?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5099789 && dateTime=="10/13/18(Sat)01:37:13")

a cheap $10 cable should work fine"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5099821 && dateTime=="10/13/18(Sat)02:08:58")

>Do retro games work with component?
Yes, but that shouldn't be the deciding factor. What type of TV and how large is. Having component on a 240p/15khz tv is very desirable. The most "Common" system that uses component and outputs 240p in the USA is a Wii."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5099857 && dateTime=="10/13/18(Sat)02:36:38" && image=="plays_1.jpg?v=1524825529.jpg")

"Will the PS1/2 BNC cable that Retro-Access sells work with a PS3, provided the display is multiformat?";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5099870 && dateTime=="10/13/18(Sat)02:45:02")

Yeah, you'd still need a composite in on your pvm tho"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5099902 && dateTime=="10/13/18(Sat)03:30:56")

yes but if you only need it for PS2/3, you might just try to find a nice component cable + RCA-to-BNC adapters.
PS2/3 do not require additional components in the cable."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5100198 && dateTime=="10/13/18(Sat)09:55:31" && image=="1538935458399.png")

"I love PVMs because when something goes wrong (like my brightness having the same luminescence of a glow-in-the-dark sticker), I earn the godly pleasure of having to open the fucking thing up and adjusting 10 pots until I find the one I actually need, then noticing my scrolling is off really badly so I have to open the 240p suite AGAIN and open the TV AGAIN, so that I can readjust everything AGAIN and receive my inevitable electric shock AGAIN.

Why do I even fucking play video games."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5100214 && dateTime=="10/13/18(Sat)10:06:56" && image=="1536697854476.jpg")

Lessons to be learned from this:
1. Don't be an OCD tweaker
2. Get the service manual and learn what the pots actually do BEFORE you start twiddling them willy-nilly
3. Get all the required adjustments done and test thoroughly BEFORE putting everything back together
4. Learn not to touch the live parts of the set and for god's sake use a non-conductive tool, not a fucking screwdriver
5. Don't be an OCD tweaker
6. Shut the fuck up"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5100215 && dateTime=="10/13/18(Sat)10:08:14")

hmph! umu"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5100274 && dateTime=="10/13/18(Sat)11:10:29")

Bandridge SCART switchers are as good as any and are pretty cheap."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5100297 && dateTime=="10/13/18(Sat)11:34:49")

"What's the appeal of outdated display tech? Too poor to buy an OLED or Quantum Dot? They've surpassed CRTs finally.";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5100329 && dateTime=="10/13/18(Sat)11:49:33")

You're retarded"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5100359 && dateTime=="10/13/18(Sat)12:04:30")

Whilst you may be right in terms of contrast ratio and colour fidelity, scaling of SD content is a big issue, along with the associated input lag.

That's the main reason we stick with CRTs"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5100372 && dateTime=="10/13/18(Sat)12:12:12")

If you want to play old games on real hardware it's kind of a no brainer. People throw away crt's daily."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5100397 && dateTime=="10/13/18(Sat)12:30:45")

Not in picture quality they haven't."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5100480 && dateTime=="10/13/18(Sat)13:32:37")

What's the point of owning a car when buses surpass then in efficiency, comfort and capacity?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5100517 && dateTime=="10/13/18(Sat)14:05:51" && image=="bob filner.png")

"Does anyone know anything about audio buzzing issues with Super Famicom or SNES? I got a new sound system and I just realized my SFC has a really horrible buzzing. It's not the cables or equipment because my Genesis and Saturn are both running through the exact same RGB setup and their sound is crystal clear. It's also not my SFC's SCART cable, because I swapped it out for an OEM composite cable to rule that out, and the buzzing was the same.

It has to be a problem with the SFC itself. Question is, what could it be? Faulty voltage regular? Capacitor issue? Is this due to the SFC AC adapter being for 100V rather than 120V?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5100530 && dateTime=="10/13/18(Sat)14:13:49")

bad cap(s), likely the big one on power supply
bad regulator, can happen
bad motherboard revision, cannot say as I'm not a SNES audio expert.
bad solder joints on multi-av out ground pins."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5100538 && dateTime=="10/13/18(Sat)14:24:54")

Thanks for the starting points. I just realized the Model 1 genesis uses the same voltage/polarity as the SFC, and I have two of those. I tried both but neither solved the buzzing, so it's not the power supply.

Next I guess I'll disassemble and check the regulator. Never checked capacitors before though, guess I'll give that a shot."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5100570 && dateTime=="10/13/18(Sat)14:44:29")

Different anon, also having audio buzzing but on my model 1 Genny. Thanks for this list, should help me fix it."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5100575 && dateTime=="10/13/18(Sat)14:47:28")

for the MD/Gen, the power supply cap is in the AC adapter.
I had an MD that had really loud buzzing, the cap in the adapter had broken solder joints."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5100576 && dateTime=="10/13/18(Sat)14:47:41")

I have a shadow mask monitor with 750 lines and I can't really see scanlines at 240p unless it's on a white background. It might be different on an aperture"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5100578 && dateTime=="10/13/18(Sat)14:48:57")

NES / FC and SNES /SFC have a big power supply cap in the console, unlike MD."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5100586 && dateTime=="10/13/18(Sat)14:56:16")

also note that unlike Nintendos, Segas have a lof of electrolytic caps, for both power filtering and audio coupling. Either look for bulged/leaking ones, or change all of them."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5100624 && dateTime=="10/13/18(Sat)15:20:11")

Strange, I assumed anything power supply related would be in the power supply. Do you know which cap it is? Largest one under the heat sink, directly behind the 7805? Looks like it's listed as C67 on my board."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5100627 && dateTime=="10/13/18(Sat)15:21:47")

I hear audio buzzing in both Geneses, but only when connecting headphones directly to the headphone jack. Through a sound system I don't hear it whatsoever."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5100630 && dateTime=="10/13/18(Sat)15:22:48")

and also nowhere near as bad as the buzzing I'm hearing on the SFC"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5100635 && dateTime=="10/13/18(Sat)15:25:33")

yes, this one. It's the biggest one and the most prone to fail. It's common practice to replace it the first time a console is opened.
Headphone amp in the MD isn't exactly the best in terms of SNR, so a bit of floor noise is normal. YM2612 also generates noise, that only gets partialy filtered."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5100643 && dateTime=="10/13/18(Sat)15:38:58")

Is there a way to test a capacitor without taking it out of the circuit? Or should I just go ahead and order a replacement and do it no matter what? I've also never done any soldering before."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5100659 && dateTime=="10/13/18(Sat)15:46:59")

>Is there a way to test a capacitor without taking it out of the circuit?
it can be shorted, but other than that you have to remove to test, and if you might as well change it
>I've also never done any soldering before.
It's not THAT hard but it does require a bit of knowledge and also knowing your equipement.
A full recap is very tedious and can lead to botches you might need to repair."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5100671 && dateTime=="10/13/18(Sat)15:53:35")

Yeah, if I were to go down this route, I'd start off just replacing the big capacitor, trying out the system and seeing how it is, and then reassess from there. At least the big guy is fairly far removed from other components, so the likelihood of fucking other things up appears to be minimal.

Guess I'll order a cheap parts kit and switch it out next weekend. BTW, do you know the name of that one shop that sells old console replacement part kits? I know you can get all the necessary stuff for consoles like SNES and Genesis for like 5 bucks, I just forget the name.

And while we're at it, do you know if there are any special issues with any particular board revisions? All I know about mine is that it's a normal lmao2chip. Board revision is labeled 1993 SNS-CPU-GPM-02."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5100696 && dateTime=="10/13/18(Sat)16:03:08" && image=="1473398243506.jpg")

Thanks for the advice!

I've seen people to reduce buzzing on headphone jack to keep the volume slider below half-way point. The issue I'm having is definitely worse than the standard YM2612 noise.

On my 20" rf only Mitsu I noticed a definite improvement in image quality by using a quality shielded RCA cable w/ F-type adapter, as this wizard here recommends. I really like the way my model 1 Genny looks w/ this set up. My SNES mini and NES were improved too but the Genny looks the best."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5100702 && dateTime=="10/13/18(Sat)16:04:10")

I wish they had cheaper shipping to yurop, they have some very nice svideo ports that I can't on ebay or aliexpress"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5100708 && dateTime=="10/13/18(Sat)16:08:58")

thanks bruh"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5100956 && dateTime=="10/13/18(Sat)18:57:35")

That's my exact tv I've had for ages.

The fucking color is vivid as shit. The brightness and contrast seem to do fuck all too. Damn screen is blinding"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5101038 && dateTime=="10/13/18(Sat)19:47:01")

I think the first version of SNES has a higher s/n ratio.if all you're getting is buzzing though, it could be a ground connection not making it through"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5101187 && dateTime=="10/13/18(Sat)21:04:37")

"convince me not to get it"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5101191 && dateTime=="10/13/18(Sat)21:06:14")

been saying this for years, but doesn't stop people from fetishizing BVMs and such"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5101205 && dateTime=="10/13/18(Sat)21:12:17")

"people will die because of this video"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5101229 && dateTime=="10/13/18(Sat)21:28:45")

By "first version" do you mean anything besides a 1chip? Mine is from 1993, SNS-CPU-GPM-02. I'm still getting normal sound, just with a fairly loud buzzing white noise alongside it.

According to some stuff I was reading, I can diminish the white vertical band in the middle of the SNES screen by putting a certain cap on the 5V regulator. Perhaps this might also help the sound issue as well. The kit I bought from Console5 says it includes a cap to do that, and it should arrive within the week.

Honestly, what's the point of doing this? Component is about as good as straight RGB, converting RGB to YPbPr is simple, and it's easy to find a later CRT with component inputs. Juice doesn't seem worth the squeeze"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5101234 && dateTime=="10/13/18(Sat)21:31:20")

non RGB / component tvs are aplenty and many component tvs are HD and/or hueg aka shit"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5101265 && dateTime=="10/13/18(Sat)21:46:26")

I thought most decent CRTs of the 2000s have component. I have two trinitron wegas from that era with component inputs, both standard definition. 24" and 27" each. One was my family's living room TV from back in the day that I took and it's in immaculate condition with good geometry and convergence and I regard it as second only to professional monitors. The other was a pickup in college and has a little tilt and convergence issues in the corners, but is otherwise solid."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5101326 && dateTime=="10/13/18(Sat)22:33:49" && image=="20181013_195345.jpg")

"Crt royal on a MSI Optix G24C 144hz monitor for reference.";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5101375 && dateTime=="10/13/18(Sat)23:00:43")

by first version I mean the kind with four rubber feet, printed eject button
you have what I'd call the second version
I run mine into a 120 ohm resistor into a volume pot, then into an audio isolation transformer, then into my stereo. I get a noise floor lower than my PC.
I recommend trying to put a resistor on each audio line, this can help with audio circuits sometimes. Something between 120 ohms and 1k."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5101452 && dateTime=="10/13/18(Sat)23:40:14")

what cassettes do you have anon"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5101458 && dateTime=="10/13/18(Sat)23:43:46" && image=="death grips.jpg")

ha ha ha death grip"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5101469 && dateTime=="10/13/18(Sat)23:47:15")

if you have to room go for it. 36 inch is incredibly cumbersome though"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5101471 && dateTime=="10/13/18(Sat)23:48:42" && image=="1525696097482.jpg")

>mfw this might actually drop the price of PVMs since the quality is so fucking good
Holy moley"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5101473 && dateTime=="10/13/18(Sat)23:50:20" && image=="well.jpg")

>removing the flyback with a screwdriver"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5101476 && dateTime=="10/13/18(Sat)23:52:49")

I'm pretty sure he's grounding it first."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5101559 && dateTime=="10/14/18(Sun)01:19:45")

I still think composite was one of the stupidest things that ever got to be a standard."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5101562 && dateTime=="10/14/18(Sun)01:20:47")

It won't drop the price on PVMs since they are valuable based on their meme status rather than their image quality."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5101584 && dateTime=="10/14/18(Sun)01:29:18" && image=="s-l640[1].jpg")

>Honestly, what's the point of doing this?
Component TVs are not too common, and they tend to be from the later era of CRT.

Theoretically you could RGB mod any color television, including ones made back in the 60s and 70s. If you were looking to restore an old arcade machine with a CRT that was similar to the original one then you might want to look for an old television and RGB mod it. Your chance of finding an old TV that looks great is much higher than finding an old arcade monitor that looks good.

The technique to do the mod varies, but even 80s tv's had very primitive OSDs you can probably tap into."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5101592 && dateTime=="10/14/18(Sun)01:34:16")


He didn't remove it with it, only discharged. I would have used a glove too tho."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5101663 && dateTime=="10/14/18(Sun)02:54:06" && image=="Screenshot_20181014-015019.png")

"Can anyone identify? The chassis style is like the widescreen hd Sony's, with the feet for it's stand and such, but this looks pretty small and 4:3. Never seen one like it, is it SD?";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5101670 && dateTime=="10/14/18(Sun)03:02:23")

check the back for its model number?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5101673 && dateTime=="10/14/18(Sun)03:07:49" && image=="00b0b_6x2UNqP2LNk_1200x900.jpg")

"Shall I check out the rear projection crt meme which is gaining groundswell recently";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5101674 && dateTime=="10/14/18(Sun)03:08:04" && image=="1469042197079.png")

Sony HS series, not standard def"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5101675 && dateTime=="10/14/18(Sun)03:08:51")

I ain't got it, it's for sale"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5101679 && dateTime=="10/14/18(Sun)03:11:08")

Ok I can rest easy, now"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5101745 && dateTime=="10/14/18(Sun)04:37:30")

I wouldn't buy any of them that are not listed by the selling as working absolutely perfectly. You're spoiled for choices when it comes to these things.

Other than that: yes please, want to see them get another look before writing them off."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5101907 && dateTime=="10/14/18(Sun)08:06:16" && image=="yfw.jpg")

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5101979 && dateTime=="10/14/18(Sun)09:22:00")

None, I don't even have a deck.
Most of them have a TV tuner in them, so I'm waiting for an affordable professional model to come up to grab one in order to avoid paying a 132 euros TV "contribution""

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5102012 && dateTime=="10/14/18(Sun)09:52:51" && image=="Lighthouse_Keeper-1.png")

He's asking about audio cassettes Etienne..."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==5102039 && dateTime=="10/14/18(Sun)10:23:21")

"New bread
>New bread