import 4.code.options;
import 4.code.about;

class Header{

public void title(){

String fullTitle = "/diy/ - Do-It-Yourself";

public void menu();

public void board();

public void goToBottom();

public void refresh(a);

class Thread extends Board{
public void /EMT/EternalMachinistThread.(OP Anonymous){

String fullTitle = "/EMT/ Eternal Machinist Thread.";
int postNumber = "1484006";
String image = "$_20.jpg";
String date = "10/21/18(Sun)07:11:04";
String comment = "Thread hymn. [Embed]

Last thread: >>1473850

>Haas automation videos.
>Titans of CNC [Embed] [Embed] [Embed] [Embed] [Embed] [Embed] [Embed] [Embed] [Embed] [Embed] [Embed] [Embed] [Embed] [Embed] [Embed] [Embed] [Embed] [Embed] [Embed] [Embed]"

public void comments(){
if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1484007 && dateTime=="10/21/18(Sun)07:11:32")

>abom79 is a good channel for manual machining and good "big old iron" work
>ThisOldTony provides great videos in the range of hobby garage machining
>Clickspring shows what can be done with truly rudimentary tools
>Robrenz is a wealth of high precision machining, toolmaking, and metrology
>Joe Pieczynski has good tips for the budding machinist on a variety of topics mostly related to manual machining
>NYC CNC is half-decent most of the time if you can get past the tormach shilling bullshit [Embed] [Embed]
and maybe [Embed] [Embed]
and [Embed] [Embed]
and this guy does aluminum and steel casting (cool) [Embed] [Embed]
and for old iron and restoring it [Embed] [Embed]
and this guy isn't particularly funny, but sometimes interesting [Embed] [Embed]
and stefan gotteswinter [Embed] [Embed]
and another guy that does metal castings [Embed] [Embed]
and watch this redneck build a million dollar business in his barn [Embed] [Embed]
and this guy isn't too big an idiot [Embed] [Embed] [Embed] [Embed]"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1484071 && dateTime=="10/21/18(Sun)09:34:17")

welp I'm suckered in now, already started ordering stuff for a CNC conversion on my chicom lathe (G0752)

One thing that just irks me is when turning aluminum and it doesn't break the chip--it just has to. For process reliability with CNC automation it's not really negotiable."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1484489 && dateTime=="10/22/18(Mon)00:20:02")

next you'll be buying a 25k cnc lathe"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1484646 && dateTime=="10/22/18(Mon)10:12:39" && image=="gage_b.jpg")

can anyone id this gage block set? grade b, 1995 mfr date

looks like a very 'harbor freight central machinery' font on the paper. did they sell gage blocks in the 90s? got it for $10 at an estate sale...

also got a phase ii qctp 5 pc set for $20"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1484649 && dateTime=="10/22/18(Mon)10:27:41" && image=="me, probably.png")

"Non-machinist here. Normie machinists keep telling me that DIYing a metal lathe is a stupid idea and not to try it.
Are they wrong?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1484651 && dateTime=="10/22/18(Mon)10:30:59")

if you want to make parts for your projects (which is what 99+% of people want), just buy a lathe

if you really want to make a lathe, do it"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1484652 && dateTime=="10/22/18(Mon)10:33:32")

>DIYing a metal lathe is a stupid idea and not to try it.

google it, and once you've read enough blogs where a super enthusiastic guy spent tons of hours and didn't finish the main way before he gave up, you'll see why almost nobody makes a metal lathe."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1484654 && dateTime=="10/22/18(Mon)10:38:06")

Nope, no project in mind, I just want to make a lathe.

I have read a bunch already. Learnt why the concrete lathe is a terrible idea, watched a series of someone building the Gingery lathe.
I did have an idea though, that you could still use concrete to cheaply add weight and rigidity to it by pouring it into a steel sheet metal case."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1484657 && dateTime=="10/22/18(Mon)10:46:37")

>watched a series of someone building the Gingery lathe.

I didn't mean to imply that it's impossible, just that is is an incredible amount of work to produce a half-assed metal lathe with simple tools, no matter how you do it. If you do it, document the whole process in a blog with videos and photos, and it will be something I and others will enjoy."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1484658 && dateTime=="10/22/18(Mon)10:49:21")

buy a 3d printer and build a plastic one since it's easy to print the parts you need. Once you have a good working design and mess with it and build small projects with the plastic one you can move into building a metal one."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1484659 && dateTime=="10/22/18(Mon)10:52:29")

>buy a 3d printer and build a plastic one

link to a video or blog of a working metal cutting lathe that is mostly 3d printed plastic?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1484661 && dateTime=="10/22/18(Mon)10:57:28")

probably taiwan or japan or something"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1484662 && dateTime=="10/22/18(Mon)11:01:45")

Well, I don't expect it to be a quick process, I was planning on like a year to make it in my spare time. Plus, I'd have to learn some skills as well, like metal casting. Other stuff, like filing shit down as perfectly flat as I can and measuring it up, I can probably just learn on the go, but casting would be something I'd have to learn to do a bit before applying it to this project. So maybe 18 months all up."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1484723 && dateTime=="10/22/18(Mon)13:56:22")

You kind of need to be able to machine steel components to make a lathe."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1484725 && dateTime=="10/22/18(Mon)13:58:23" && image=="3da6c3201de06efd4e5f05e3307ea5f3799aae9bdc0e8032a33cc836a3b644d1.png")

What came first, machined steel components or lathes?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1484752 && dateTime=="10/22/18(Mon)15:33:23")

files, files came first"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1484766 && dateTime=="10/22/18(Mon)16:10:05")

A lot of toil for inferior products."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1484776 && dateTime=="10/22/18(Mon)16:34:29")

But those people who invented the first machine tools had skilled blacksmiths/foundry men (or were themselves blacksmiths or foundry men) at their disposal, not to mention an army of quasi slave labor with files known as "apprentices".
And even then it would be shit compared to even a modern Chinaman lathe."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1484802 && dateTime=="10/22/18(Mon)17:10:01")

"Update on the Kent machine quote, some guy called and asked if I wanted a Fagor control instead of the Fanuc which he referred to as "conversational".

Not sure if that's a good thing or not."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1484843 && dateTime=="10/22/18(Mon)18:17:14")

Fanuc is better, fagor is shid. I've used both"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1484845 && dateTime=="10/22/18(Mon)18:22:54")

The advertisements make them look nicer."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1484849 && dateTime=="10/22/18(Mon)18:36:06")

I've used both, but mainly various versions of FANUC (seems to be more common in general). I could go with either though I am much more familiar with FANUC. "Conversational" refers to a type of fill in the blank programming, which is easy and convenient for one off's and such to quickly get semi-simple parts out. I don't know what you want the machine for. If it is just production, then it doesn't make much of a difference. If otherwise, conversational programming is a serious thing to consider."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1484899 && dateTime=="10/22/18(Mon)20:28:53")

I use CAM software for everything, I honestly haven't used the conversational stuff at all.

While I'm not convinced of the NYC CNC approach of making the model and CAM on the PC to keep it for next time, I do usually use CAM because it's what I'm familiar with. I use a manual knee mill for simple stuff like squaring up stock."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1484938 && dateTime=="10/22/18(Mon)21:34:54")


if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1484965 && dateTime=="10/22/18(Mon)22:16:22")

">Tormach hack, stock 110 stepper IPM based on 1,000 lbs rated table capacity

Welp, I know what I'm gonna be doing tomorrow.

250 or 300 IPM on a Tormach without servos, nice."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1484968 && dateTime=="10/22/18(Mon)22:25:03")


if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1484970 && dateTime=="10/22/18(Mon)22:32:30")

smallest hole one is better"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1485293 && dateTime=="10/23/18(Tue)15:41:32")

Total Package Price for (1)
With 20 tools Carousel ATC
With Auto-lubrication unit
With flood coolant system

With Fagor 8055i CNC control $ 68,500.00


if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1485325 && dateTime=="10/23/18(Tue)16:26:49" && image=="why tormach is inferior.png")

Haas minimill vs Tormach 1100m"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1485411 && dateTime=="10/23/18(Tue)18:48:19")

Certainly at 25k it would be."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1485457 && dateTime=="10/23/18(Tue)21:06:49" && image=="diy tap wrench2.jpg")

but remember my tormach was about 10k with 5k of addons and accessories.

They're a little higher now, but not too much.

Moral of the story is machines are expensive unless you can do it with crappy ones.

Also the 1100M is 2HP with 7,500RPM spindle. I guarantee the Haas is a better machine but at least compare them honestly.

The MX looks to be more comparable. 10K RPM spindle though, rigid tapping, etc."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1485490 && dateTime=="10/23/18(Tue)22:13:36" && image=="1519286262563.jpg")

"retard question:

if I'm using a Lathe and I want to centre drill a hole through the entire length of a workpiece can you just keep drilling past the jaws of the chuck and do it in a oner? or do 80% then flip over and drill from the other end?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1485500 && dateTime=="10/23/18(Tue)22:41:13")

center drills aren't meant for deep drilling, but with a drill bit yes you can drill through the spindle bore"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1485515 && dateTime=="10/23/18(Tue)23:24:37")

that tap handle looks so ghetto. I had to make one that screwed together and had knurled handles and shit."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1485632 && dateTime=="10/24/18(Wed)08:12:23")

it also only bent when used with cheeter pipe"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1485781 && dateTime=="10/24/18(Wed)14:16:44")


>what wages should I expect for being a CNC programmer, 2015"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1485788 && dateTime=="10/24/18(Wed)14:38:10")

You'll be fine, may have to use a gundrill if the work is too long."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1485810 && dateTime=="10/24/18(Wed)15:47:25")

The chuck is mounted to whats called the spindle, and the spindle should have a hole all the way through the middle, out the back of the machine. Its so you can stick long stock into the chuck, or for precisely what you are saying which is drilling "into" the chuck.

Just have to make sure your spindle bore is larger than your drill bit.
You can do half and flip it around, but that introduces all sorts of problems

Also, there is a stubby drill bit called a "center drill" thats made to put a cone shape on the end of a piece of stock so that it can be used with lathe centers.
Im assuming when you said center drilling, you meant boring a hole right through the middle and not actually using a center drill. Though im not sure if calling it "center drilling" is necessarily wrong either.

Do you own a lathe yet?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1485811 && dateTime=="10/24/18(Wed)15:48:27")

30k a year"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1485884 && dateTime=="10/24/18(Wed)19:40:23")

beware of doing any stacks were you'd need the deviation sheet.
simple manual machines rely on a lot of mass to reduce vibration, that could be a challenge.
how long is the work piece? Center drill a hole big enough for the web of your next drill. Drill with the shortest length drill you have in that size, progressively increase the length of drills until you break through. Using different length drills keeps the drill from walking (hole is straight)."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1485896 && dateTime=="10/24/18(Wed)20:37:34")

"what does it mean when I was turning a part and it was cutting ok at first but then when I came back to it after a break I was getting tons of chatter and uneven finish?";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1485899 && dateTime=="10/24/18(Wed)20:42:13")

spindle bearings cooled down"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1485906 && dateTime=="10/24/18(Wed)20:46:57")

should I just let it run for a while before I start back up? the reason I stopped was because the part was too hot."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1485911 && dateTime=="10/24/18(Wed)21:14:16")

part might have expanded from the heat and shifted in the chuck jaws perhaps?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1485923 && dateTime=="10/24/18(Wed)21:46:56")

I don't know. I think my concentricity got fucked up too. I was trying to make this part all in one setup but it didn't work. I did the left part first with a lh tool and got it completely straight, but then after I did the right and middle parts I checked the left part with my indicator and the needle moved like .003 over the 3 inches. then middle part was flat and the right part was off by .005 even though the measured taper was only .0015."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1485925 && dateTime=="10/24/18(Wed)21:47:58" && image=="Untitled.png")

forgot my drawing"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1485937 && dateTime=="10/24/18(Wed)22:28:21")

I'm making 40k after 2 years."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1485970 && dateTime=="10/25/18(Thu)00:54:21")

>Do you own a lathe yet?

no but I do have some access to a Colchester 2500

why? does /emt/ have a canonical list of good lathes for playing about in your garage?

the question was more filling in the gaps in my knowledge which are massive because I've only done basic facing, chamfers, knurling and drilling shallow holes"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1485975 && dateTime=="10/25/18(Thu)01:06:48")

A french guy with a file"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1485996 && dateTime=="10/25/18(Thu)02:56:40")

Was that in a three jaw? You flipped it around in the chuck to do the other side? Yeah your concentricity is fucked"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1486020 && dateTime=="10/25/18(Thu)04:16:22")

taking too light cuts if it's heating up like that, deep cuts make chips that carry the heat away from the part, it's "rubbing" with light cuts and making your part heat up."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1486021 && dateTime=="10/25/18(Thu)04:21:24")

I used to have my parts heat up before I figured out what the machine can actually do.

try a bit deeper cut anon. You gotta make a good chip."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1486292 && dateTime=="10/25/18(Thu)18:49:44")

>does /emt/ have a canonical list of good lathes for playing about in your garage?

As big as you can possibly fit"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1486375 && dateTime=="10/25/18(Thu)22:46:05")

it was in a 3 jaw but I used a left hand tool to do the left side.

I was doing .025 passes. I thought more than that would give me problems with tool pressure bending the part."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1486378 && dateTime=="10/25/18(Thu)22:59:15")

the ones with steps and handrails on the toolpost are good"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1486381 && dateTime=="10/25/18(Thu)23:08:14" && image=="IMG_4055(1).jpg")

So I tried to blue my part with a torch, but I passed the blue color up and now it's a splotchy gray. Can I heat it up again to reattempt blue or would I have to strip the oxide layer off first?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1486382 && dateTime=="10/25/18(Thu)23:09:19" && image=="IMG_4056.jpg")

Other than my finish fuck up, the part came out well. All of the dimensions are within ~ .002""

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1486391 && dateTime=="10/25/18(Thu)23:22:22")

You need to strip the oxide of off you want to go backward. Watch clickspring on youtube. He has a lot of good videos on blueing"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1486425 && dateTime=="10/26/18(Fri)01:10:46")

looks okay you could try rust bluing it

degrease it thoroughly then boil peroxide and table salt to dissolve the salt in it, coat it in that mixture to make it rust, then boil (in a clean degreased pot) de-ionized water (water needs no minerals in it) and put the rusty part in it (after washing off salt mixture)

watch the orange rust turn to black, then card it off a little and it's a good pretty firearm bluing"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1486730 && dateTime=="10/26/18(Fri)16:22:14" && image=="uuuu.gif")

"Praise the machine god.";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1486731 && dateTime=="10/26/18(Fri)16:23:21")

>Are they wrong?

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1486746 && dateTime=="10/26/18(Fri)16:59:13")

jesus, the jaws on that center chuck are probably holding on those last 3 with a single scroll"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1486748 && dateTime=="10/26/18(Fri)17:00:42")

I only want to know why someone would put themselves in so much risk"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1486770 && dateTime=="10/26/18(Fri)17:39:42")

you should really just make an extender instead of all those chucks"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1486776 && dateTime=="10/26/18(Fri)18:01:35")

>you should really just make an extender instead of all those chucks

another NPC sighting!"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1486777 && dateTime=="10/26/18(Fri)18:02:00")

trying to use that small ass chuck?
or maybe wants to put some wear and tear on the bed farther from the chuck?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1486817 && dateTime=="10/26/18(Fri)19:19:22" && image=="mobile infantry.jpg")

"buying a cnc lathe soon. what kinds of tool holders should I have? I already have these on my list.

>cnmg facing and turning insert holder
>.375 boring bar w/ ccmt inserts

what kind of threading insert holders should I have? I was thinking about SER inserts but I'd like to have your opinions. I also think I should have smaller boring bars but if I need them I'll buy them later."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1486855 && dateTime=="10/26/18(Fri)20:12:09")

how in gods green earth can you afford to buy a cnc lathe but have no idea what fucking cutters to buy"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1486867 && dateTime=="10/26/18(Fri)20:28:55")

I have an idea, but I want some other's opinions on what works best. I probably won't get any good answers here mind you, but I figured it was worth a try."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1486898 && dateTime=="10/26/18(Fri)22:30:19")


if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1486974 && dateTime=="10/27/18(Sat)02:34:27" && image=="IMG_4061.jpg")

So that made it look infinitely worse. Also ruined the smooth finish and feels like anodized aluminum now."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1486978 && dateTime=="10/27/18(Sat)03:04:48")

Sorry anon, I should have looked at his advice moe carefully. Here's midwayusa doing it."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1487092 && dateTime=="10/27/18(Sat)09:15:34")

Oh don't worry about it, not your fault. I had actually watched a video that did it exactly as you described. Just wanted to give a heads up in case anyone else wants to try it."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1487104 && dateTime=="10/27/18(Sat)09:47:27")

I just slap some birchwood casey gunblue paste on it, then wipe it off. It works perfectly fine and looks pretty uniform. Buy the stuff at walmart for like 7$"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1487110 && dateTime=="10/27/18(Sat)09:53:54")

"There is a Bridgeport with a DRO near me for $1800
What exactly should I be looking for when I go look at it?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1487118 && dateTime=="10/27/18(Sat)10:27:54")

Should it move?
>make sure it moves.

Should it not move?
>make sure it doesnt move."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1487131 && dateTime=="10/27/18(Sat)11:12:42")

the y axis. check the y axis ways. it might not even matter to you all too much anyways, it only pisses me off when im trying to indicate anything or do anything precision"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1487173 && dateTime=="10/27/18(Sat)12:54:31" && image=="IMG_20181028_033450.jpg")

>simple manual machines rely on a lot of mass to reduce vibration, that could be a challenge.
That's why I was thinking about filling SHS with concrete.
Pic related is the basic design I was thinking of for the bottom part of the bed. Pretty simple, it's gotta be big and heavy, but I wanted something that can be taken apart and moved if necessary, so this comes out to five parts, at approximately 30kg each.
I've got some ideas on the bed ways, but it's still formulating in my head.
The middle section, the little gusset tabs I'm thinking will also be good for attaching other stuff there, like the rack for a rack and pinion thing, or for a sheet metal or plastic guard to keep fingers out of twisty bits."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1487222 && dateTime=="10/27/18(Sat)14:17:22")

By the time you do all the work it would be cheaper just to buy one."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1487243 && dateTime=="10/27/18(Sat)14:33:53" && image=="IMG_4065.jpg")

"Made the punch insert";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1487246 && dateTime=="10/27/18(Sat)14:35:01" && image=="IMG_4066.jpg")

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1487250 && dateTime=="10/27/18(Sat)14:36:18" && image=="IMG_4068.jpg")

After I polished it, I drew the temper back to yellow"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1487340 && dateTime=="10/27/18(Sat)17:01:58")

"So I just bought a Starret Last Word, its physically in good shape, came in the hard case and with the red box.

Its functional, but the arm is slow to return and sometimes sticks.
Im hoping i can pull it apart and clean it and lubricate it. Has anyone done this before?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1487360 && dateTime=="10/27/18(Sat)18:00:47" && image=="Screenshot_2018-10-27_18-00-11.png")

>slow to return and sometimes sticks.
>Im hoping i can pull it apart and clean it and lubricate it. Has anyone done this before?

I use wd40"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1487366 && dateTime=="10/27/18(Sat)18:10:20")

Well... There's a lot of debate in the manual machinist world, hold on a while and I'll go dig up some of my tool holders for turning/boring/etc.

dude you have to card that stuff off to reveal the pretty blued metal surface underneath...

A wire wheel and very lightly go over it, don't get wire bristles stuck in your eye either."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1487386 && dateTime=="10/27/18(Sat)18:36:38" && image=="IMG_4076.jpg")


if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1487402 && dateTime=="10/27/18(Sat)19:07:03" && image=="insert styles.jpg")

see if you can wiggle the table, push and pull on it, it should move only almost imperceptibly, otherwise it's worn out.

it will be worn out in the middle of both axes if it is.

if you can see scraping marks at the ends but not in the middle, it's probably worn out.

Also make sure it has way covers, if it doesn't, it's probably worn out.

what the heck I think you went too deep...."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1487405 && dateTime=="10/27/18(Sat)19:10:08" && image=="spade drill.jpg")

spade drills are a great way to remove a lot of material fast, carbide inserts and you can make the drill body yourself."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1487406 && dateTime=="10/27/18(Sat)19:11:10" && image=="triangles.jpg")

ok try a thin bristle wire brush"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1487407 && dateTime=="10/27/18(Sat)19:12:59" && image=="turning boring.jpg")

btw I quite like my parting blade.

Iscar do-grip dgfh, you slide it in or out in the holder for deeper cuts or more rigidity"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1487412 && dateTime=="10/27/18(Sat)19:18:56")

Did the rust turn black?

Almost looks red still."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1487415 && dateTime=="10/27/18(Sat)19:22:20")

I took mine apart slightly, it works in one direction now. I put a new bezel on it too. Probably needs sent off to a repair shop."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1487455 && dateTime=="10/27/18(Sat)20:38:51")

Dark gray with speckling of black."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1487472 && dateTime=="10/27/18(Sat)21:00:15" && image=="1509680778685.jpg")


anyone know what haas center this is? how much are they?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1487474 && dateTime=="10/27/18(Sat)21:02:52")

VM series? Or a VF series with a 5th axis trunnion"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1487488 && dateTime=="10/27/18(Sat)21:32:54")

the 5th axis trunnion the NYC CNC guy has is nicer I think."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1487498 && dateTime=="10/27/18(Sat)21:50:07")

"Tool regrind anon here. Work is getting an old Mazak CNC mill in a few months.
Im going to be the guy doing objective R&D on reground tool geometry at certain speeds and feeds in certain materials.

Nobody in the shop has CNC mill experience (bossman knows tool geometry, but not sure if he has any experience either). So he has delegated me the guy because I do hobby machining at home. Problem is I have no experience either, all my machining work is winging it by ear and by feel.

Im actually interested in learning as I plan on getting some sort of CNC mill at home to make some cash on the side making small parts or something.
What are some good resources should I be looking into so I dont go in completely blind? It doesnt have to be a crash course because I have time to study it."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1487505 && dateTime=="10/27/18(Sat)22:01:33" && image=="compressor.jpg")

nyc cnc's old videos, at man unlimited's videos?

Truth be told I don't know what you're looking for, but I've certainly watched enough youtube videos to get some shit done on my own. Also check the OP links like the Haas tips stuff."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1487512 && dateTime=="10/27/18(Sat)22:09:25")

>Truth be told I don't know what you're looking for

Im not quite sure what im looking for either. I have never watched any CNC machining videos at all. Just hoping to learn just enough to not fuck my opportunity of making myself more important up."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1487665 && dateTime=="10/28/18(Sun)03:41:32")

Uh, your work should have a grinding machine. Not a mill if they want reground tools"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1487711 && dateTime=="10/28/18(Sun)06:52:12")

I thought it sounded like they're gonna have him CNC stuff to test the tools..."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1487713 && dateTime=="10/28/18(Sun)06:57:16")


i have a starrett 196 plunger indicator. it worked nice but was dirty as fuck until it fell (with the magbase) 2 ft onto the ground directly on the plunger. i took it apart, cleaned it, made a new polycarbonate crystal. now it looks beautiful and doesnt work. it jams up somewhere on the main helix.

afaik, you don't lubricate them. if they are, clean out the lube."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1487759 && dateTime=="10/28/18(Sun)09:38:47" && image=="honing_land_01_en.png")

I work at a grinding shop, we have grinding CNCs. We regrind old tools and we produce our own custom carbide tools.
The mill is to test our own new tools and fix problems with regrinds.

We spent 2 years working on getting a contract with this large company, creating a custom tool for their specific application. We made a lot of test tools and just waited to hear back from them on how they performed in real life, instead of text book knowledge. We could have immensely cut that time down by getting the small mistakes out of the way by doing a lot of testing in house.

We also have big name customers in production that have their processes locked down. They know exactly what their tool life from our regrinds should be.
Say they randomly see an average 5-10% decrease in their tool life, they will bitch at us and we will have to figure out exactly what in the tool geometry changed on our end. Doesnt happen much but it can on occasion.

Last time it happened it was something really basic that should have been weeded out quickly in a day, but it took a while sending tools back and forth. On the cutting edge and gash lip of a performance carbide drill, an operator had been putting round hones when they should have been chamfer hones. Round hones are .001-.002 and chamfer hones are usually .003-.004. By eye and under a microscope they look the same so the tools looked normal, but ti just took time of going through the process of making new tools to figure it out. Much less painless when you are doing it in house instead of relying on communication"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1487765 && dateTime=="10/28/18(Sun)09:45:02")

I havent taken the last word apart yet.
The reversing lever seems loose. When the lever is set in the down position, the indicator works perfectly fine. It just seems like the lever walks its way into the middle where it will no longer return to zero. Also I try to reverse it and the lever wont stay in the reverse position. Not sure what I should do with it."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1487841 && dateTime=="10/28/18(Sun)12:10:25" && image=="VideoToGif_GIF.gif")

"Is it bad practice to turn between centers without dogs?";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1487865 && dateTime=="10/28/18(Sun)12:57:09" && image=="bevel vs microbevel endmills3.jpg")

yes, deep cuts and it won't spin

i have no idea

what do you make of the geometries in pic related?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1487867 && dateTime=="10/28/18(Sun)12:58:33")

ya need a cover to cover up that leadscrew"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1487869 && dateTime=="10/28/18(Sun)12:59:55")

"Also, insert designation chart that needs added to the sticky."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1488022 && dateTime=="10/28/18(Sun)17:14:43")

"What kind of metric tap and die sets do you guys have?
It was easy to get old Ace and Greenfield SAE taps, more than ill ever use. I cant find shit for Metric though.

Im thinking of just buying a Gearwrench or Irwin 40 piece set, both about ~100$."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1488040 && dateTime=="10/28/18(Sun)17:30:11")

>metric tap and die sets

my harbor freight metric set is surprisingly decent. it even seems to have the fine thread variants. the vermont american metric single taps and dies are good too. i've got all UTD/ace/greenfield for imperial though."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1488056 && dateTime=="10/28/18(Sun)17:41:07")

>what do you make of the geometries in pic related?

There are only a few factories who actually make raw carbide so a lot of brands will have the same exact base carbide. Also realize that there are patents on certain edge geometries and flute construction etc etc.

A lot of tools are close but slightly different for legal reasons, not for performance reasons.

Objectively, there would have to be a "best" endmill, under 100% ideal conditions with your machine and your material. But honestly in many cases itll be splitting hairs, and down to you to actually tune your programs to your application.

Id ignore the marketing and just run them all at feeds and speeds that are recommended by the manufacturer and then stick to the easiest one to tune in well with your setup."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1488068 && dateTime=="10/28/18(Sun)17:49:13")

Also, just an aside. We have heard from multiple big name customers that GorillaMill makes pretty poor performing endmills and they are all marketing while your basic run of the mill OSG or Gheuring or Niagra cutters just blow them out of the water."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1488075 && dateTime=="10/28/18(Sun)17:53:36")

the monster tool company endmill in that pic is one of their low helix ones for steel"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1488126 && dateTime=="10/28/18(Sun)19:25:24" && image=="IMG_4084.jpg")

"Made the last part of the punch! Knurling is way simpler than I thought it would be!";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1488140 && dateTime=="10/28/18(Sun)19:47:45")

It's always somewhat amazing to watch, you keep dialing up feed force thinking nothing's happening and then all of a sudden it comes out just right. it pretty much always makes parts look nicely finished."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1488158 && dateTime=="10/28/18(Sun)20:25:47" && image=="IMG_4086.jpg")

All of muh parts. Not sure how I feel about the blue now. Should have taken it all to gray"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1488160 && dateTime=="10/28/18(Sun)20:27:29" && image=="IMG_4087.jpg")

As expected on a test it got it in the center (compared with center head square)

What should I make next? I have a lot of 1" and .5" barstock."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1488220 && dateTime=="10/28/18(Sun)22:42:05")

boring bar insert holder? got a mill?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1488222 && dateTime=="10/28/18(Sun)22:43:26")

looks like gorilla mill makes a bunch of stuff for hard materials too, like low helix stuff with small chip gullets just to increase the cross-section.

Not surprised those perform poorly on any old machine in any old material, but if you really push that fucker through some prehard stuff or something you might see a difference?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1488229 && dateTime=="10/28/18(Sun)23:11:34")

No but I do have a milling attachment for the lathe. I do already have a few boring bars though."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1488230 && dateTime=="10/28/18(Sun)23:17:07")

Small spade drill insert holder?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1488231 && dateTime=="10/28/18(Sun)23:17:54" && image=="1.png")

Welp I messaged a guy on craigslist and on a whim drove 45 minutes and picked it up.
I have a handful of Kromedge taps already and they have always cut fine and seemed of decent quality."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1488232 && dateTime=="10/28/18(Sun)23:19:02" && image=="2.png")

95% of them are new, and the ones that may have wear on them were only lightly used. Also that light rust and white oxidation stuff came with wd40."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1488238 && dateTime=="10/28/18(Sun)23:46:46")

those are nice tap wrenches, did you ever get the quick change gearbox installed on your lathe?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1488246 && dateTime=="10/29/18(Mon)00:16:34" && image=="98-9902436d25[1].jpg")

Based on the Craftsman logo and a few newspaper listings that set dates from around from 1977. Here is an earlier listing from 1970 when they still used wooden cases (upper left). That is $460 in today's dollars. They were likely made by Ace/Hansen. Hansen is owned by Irwin these days and their quality is very uneven. Their high-end stuff is still decent but their low-end stuff is garbage. Likely made in China"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1488247 && dateTime=="10/29/18(Mon)00:18:02")

Just to be clear, it is their new stuff that is wonky. Their old stuff is pretty good."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1488251 && dateTime=="10/29/18(Mon)00:28:07" && image=="Sears Craftsman Power and Hand Tools 1977-78_0087.jpg")

Oh, hey, I found the exact set. $453.10 in today's dollars. This was their 'low-end' chrome plated carbon steel set, not the high-end HSS set. Just to be clear, you will wear through that chrome plating if these see moderate or more use. They may still cut well when that happens, I'm not sure. As more durable metals were starting to make their way down to the consumer grade cutting tools Sears was selling, the Kromedge brand started to shift lower down on the quality scale. By the 1980s it was basically their bottom tier for everything. Eventually, they retired the name completely."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1488268 && dateTime=="10/29/18(Mon)01:43:08")

cover for that open bearing"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1488285 && dateTime=="10/29/18(Mon)03:01:28")

and a cover for that exposed leadscrew"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1488398 && dateTime=="10/29/18(Mon)09:12:50")

Im a different anon, my Atlas only has standard change gears sadly.
The big wrenches are a factor in buying it though, ive acquired some larger taps and dies and didnt have large wrenches for them.
I would have ended up paying ~20$ a piece for the two large ones on ebay.

Interesting. The manual/advertising booklets inside both said 1977 on them.
I knew they were carbon taps and dies, but all the Vermont/Ace Hansen/Card and other vintage USA made taps I have aside from HSS Greenfields are all high carbon and have always worked fine.

But with that said, I honestly havent actually had a problem with the handful of chinese made Vermont American high carbon taps, Nip made Century high carbon taps, or even the low end Irwin high carbon taps.
They are all so much better than the cheese grade 15$ harbor freight sets its not funny. I only use the harbor freight set to clean threads up."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1488585 && dateTime=="10/29/18(Mon)15:20:04")

What do you mean? every other lathe in this size I've seen has an exposed lead screw

Sadly no 4" stock. I am going to just buy one though. only like $20 for the cover."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1488588 && dateTime=="10/29/18(Mon)15:27:10")

flat stock might work"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1488609 && dateTime=="10/29/18(Mon)16:10:40")

>every other lathe in this size I've seen has an exposed lead screw

I believe he means the spindle thread, because you really dont want that getting dinged up.
Usually its covered by screwing on a face plate with the dogs turning your stock"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1488618 && dateTime=="10/29/18(Mon)16:49:30")

they say if you screw up the spindle nose, the lathe is junk"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1488630 && dateTime=="10/29/18(Mon)17:08:29")

hey you can always chase the threads lol

or turn it down and make an adapter"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1488689 && dateTime=="10/29/18(Mon)19:23:54")

"how do I indicate a long part in a 4 jaw chuck if one end is in the tailstock instead of a spider? I got it in with my one indicator but then when I put a second indicator 2 inches down it was still fucked.";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1488695 && dateTime=="10/29/18(Mon)19:33:54")

is your tailstock offset?

do drill bits bend when going into stock?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1488711 && dateTime=="10/29/18(Mon)20:00:14")

I checked tailstock alignment with a test bar before I started"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1488715 && dateTime=="10/29/18(Mon)20:03:22")

is the centerline of the jaws crooked or something?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1488740 && dateTime=="10/29/18(Mon)20:39:46")

The only way that happens is if the part is in there crooked, you can indicate something center at one spot but still have it running crooked as hell.

Gotta move your indicate down and make sure it's concentric to the rotational center of the chuck.

You put the indicator on your carriage and slide it in and out right?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1488741 && dateTime=="10/29/18(Mon)20:40:13")

I don't know. I was worried that the part I was working on last week was out of concentricity, but then when I was trying to fix it today I couldn't get it straight."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1488743 && dateTime=="10/29/18(Mon)20:45:14" && image=="Untitled.png")

if this picture makes any sense I had the left dial zeroed out but the right one was flipping around. one of the indicators was on a magnetic base on the cross slide and the other was on an arm attached to the tool post. thinking about it now I think I needed to adjust the jaws so that one dial would go one way and the other would go the other way until they met in the middle."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1488751 && dateTime=="10/29/18(Mon)20:49:07")

no you need to get it indicated concentric to the rotational center of the chuck all the way down the part, not at just one spot. Try again?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1488753 && dateTime=="10/29/18(Mon)20:53:27")

if it's concentric at two different points it should be straight across the entire length. I just don't get exactly how to dial in both at the same time."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1488828 && dateTime=="10/29/18(Mon)23:19:34")

take note of how far the dials are moving while adjusting?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1488949 && dateTime=="10/30/18(Tue)07:33:08")


damn these look nice for low powered lathes + aluminum"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1488961 && dateTime=="10/30/18(Tue)08:17:14")

"are there any good indexable id threading tools that aren't $100 or should I just try to grind one?";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1488965 && dateTime=="10/30/18(Tue)08:27:54")

Aliexpress has sets for $20

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1488967 && dateTime=="10/30/18(Tue)08:34:47")

I mean one that won't break or have the screw strip the first time I try to remove it"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1488982 && dateTime=="10/30/18(Tue)09:11:22")

I have a handful of boring bars and turning tools that are all chicom specials and knock on wood, havent had one break or strip out. Ive broken the inserts a few times being a dummy, but they are cheap and they cut."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1488986 && dateTime=="10/30/18(Tue)09:21:16")

>should I just try to grind one?

takes like 5 minutes with a threading gauge, like 10 if you're fucking with a protractor

while you're at it, make another one on the other end of the tool bit"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1488990 && dateTime=="10/30/18(Tue)09:38:31" && image=="triangle threading insert.jpg")

what insert you looking for?

I suggest the triangle threading inserts. They are different for ID and OD threading, but they seem to work quite well."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1488991 && dateTime=="10/30/18(Tue)09:39:55")

Different anon, but it looks like you can find those chinesium IR a60 inserts for about a dollar a piece on ebay, and the holders for about 6-7$ a piece."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1488999 && dateTime=="10/30/18(Tue)09:50:17")

>IR a60 inserts for about a dollar
Made of steel material, have corrosion resistance and good flexibility. Material:"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1489002 && dateTime=="10/30/18(Tue)09:53:45")

Why cause problems for yourself with shitty tools when you could just grind up some HSS though?

If he wants to get shit done quicker by then he can surely afford (or buy used) a quality insert boring bar."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1489010 && dateTime=="10/30/18(Tue)10:05:09")

They are carbide inserts, things don't need to be marked up 1000% to be carbide. They could be shit carbide, but they seem to work fine, you can go to jewtube and look up reviews of chink tools and inserts and see them in use."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1489014 && dateTime=="10/30/18(Tue)10:13:00")

>Made of steel material, have corrosion resistance and good flexibility.

cut n paste engrish, sellers don't even know what they're selling"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1489020 && dateTime=="10/30/18(Tue)10:17:12")

Because in all honesty they actually work well."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1489021 && dateTime=="10/30/18(Tue)10:18:14")

They just make the shit and sell it, they were contracted to do it by people who do know what it is."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1489026 && dateTime=="10/30/18(Tue)10:38:27")

>They are carbide inserts, things don't need to be marked up 1000% to be carbide.

$1.00 is probably less than the scrap value of the carbide inserts, this reeks of communist party subsidization to destroy western competition."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1489345 && dateTime=="10/30/18(Tue)19:52:48")

I have a od holder that uses 11er inserts. how do those ones with two points work?

I need to cut 1/2-28 and 1.1-12 threads. I was hoping for something I could use in a cnc turret, even if I have to shim it."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1489360 && dateTime=="10/30/18(Tue)20:16:50")

this, I'll buy american companies and not chinese liars any day"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1489361 && dateTime=="10/30/18(Tue)20:22:15")


the second point is apparently some kind of chip remover thing or something"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1489417 && dateTime=="10/30/18(Tue)22:29:56")

"all i know is ive def made $11 worth of threads with my 10mm id and od chink threading tools, and when it breaks or dulls you dont loose your threading position you just rotate n go";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1489433 && dateTime=="10/30/18(Tue)22:46:54")

Its a losing battle.
You are spending more out of spite, which ultimately only hurts yourself in a war that already has been lost."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1489494 && dateTime=="10/31/18(Wed)03:13:03")

Got any id threading insert holders you love and cannot part without?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1489499 && dateTime=="10/31/18(Wed)03:29:03")

>to destroy western competition.
Any actual machine shop will pay out of the ass for top of the line tools, that you as a hobbyist opt to spend 10% of their price for a 70% as good tool isn't going to wreck those western companies. Hobbyists would just grind their own tools or use old shit otherwise."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1489534 && dateTime=="10/31/18(Wed)05:55:47" && image=="threading inserts.jpg")

The boring bar there with the triangle insert in it. Goes a long way, doubles as boring bar.

So apparently the inserts with the second ridge are for certain thread pitches? I've never actually used it like that, I always cock the point to be right with a fishtail thread gauge, and the second point doesn't engage at all.

Externally your triangle holder doesn't need to have the perfect angle for threading, you can just rotate the toolpost slightly. There are different inserts for internal/external threading though.

left = internal"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1489854 && dateTime=="10/31/18(Wed)19:23:46" && image=="fixture.jpg")

"curse the person that decided that bottoming taps should be the most uncommon sort.

also, still making dick molds if anyone wants one"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1489865 && dateTime=="10/31/18(Wed)20:03:16")

If you've got spares you can just grind the end off of a plug and make it into a bottom tap, at work the toolroom is insane and sends taps off to be sharpened that have been used once so we end up with tons of starters and plugs but no bottoms, that trick has saved me so many times."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1490180 && dateTime=="11/01/18(Thu)15:23:17")


yep, one shitty hex clamp is not enough to hold those in.

gonna try knife edge clamps, 4x the holding power, does mar the part a little.

might even put a pointed set screw into the end of the penis shape there for extra holding"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1490471 && dateTime=="11/02/18(Fri)06:02:22")

Those things are so floppy that it makes me feel like it won't drill straight, but it does."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1490473 && dateTime=="11/02/18(Fri)06:09:31")

">tfw your school gets a HAAS VF4 SS 5 axis

I know its a HAAS, but 5 axis stuff was never offered before and its exciting to have the opportunity."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1490489 && dateTime=="11/02/18(Fri)07:27:03" && image=="pitbull.jpg")

btw if anyone is wondering, those hex clamps fucking suck. Have only used them successfully when more than one clamp is employed to hold a part down.

Need broad surface in order to use them, really not a great solution. Better to deal with putting a mark on the part and use a knife edge style."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1490496 && dateTime=="11/02/18(Fri)07:42:46")

Nice, very jealous. The Haas of today seems to be a lot better than the Haas of 10 years ago.

NYC CNC did a shop tour of a place that makes USAF jet parts, the video has apparently been deleted between now and yesterday though... Must have been something they didn't want shown.

Anyway, they had been a Mazak shop for years and years until their equipment was in need of repair and it had a multi-month wait time to get it fixed. Haas had some machines ready to go nearby, they put them on the floor and apparently are working out pretty well.

Starting to agree with the Titan guy, who makes parts for Space-X and other Aerospace. 5-axis machines are the new go-to, 3-axis is almost obsolete for high-end work. Less setups to get the work done means less risk involved maintaining fixtures and transferring parts over (chip stuck between fixture and part? woops!). Important for expensive material.

For job shops and smaller shops I'm sure 3-axis will be around for another lifetime."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1490544 && dateTime=="11/02/18(Fri)10:02:59")

Fagor controllers are FUCKING SHIT. Avoid like the plague."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1490550 && dateTime=="11/02/18(Fri)10:13:13")

How good or bad the result would be if that impeller was machined out of casting wax and then cast?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1490614 && dateTime=="11/02/18(Fri)13:44:07")

Unless those fins are thicker than a Latina whore, absolutely terrible."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1490620 && dateTime=="11/02/18(Fri)13:51:19" && image=="pitbull clamps.jpg")

mcmaster saves the day again"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1490624 && dateTime=="11/02/18(Fri)13:54:35")

and wich ones are good kind anon?
I learnt with fagor and now I struggle with Heindenhain. unless you elaborate your post you may be talking about just a personal opinion."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1490664 && dateTime=="11/02/18(Fri)15:29:50")

my school has a 5 axis but no mastercan processor for it so it's basically useless."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1490730 && dateTime=="11/02/18(Fri)17:56:15")

Fuuuck. That really sucks."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1490734 && dateTime=="11/02/18(Fri)18:01:01")

I would love to use a 5th axis machine.

I don't understand, why can't you just CAD&CAM in mastercam so you could just take the program to the machine in a usb and use it that way?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1490736 && dateTime=="11/02/18(Fri)18:02:00")

which raises the question, how does one make a file with a forge or whatever you use?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1490737 && dateTime=="11/02/18(Fri)18:02:25")

it's just been sitting there all year because no one has anything to run on it. I wrote a simple program by hand that basically just used it as an indexer but I wasn't able to run it anyway because we didn't have the stock I needed for a fixture."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1490739 && dateTime=="11/02/18(Fri)18:04:14")

you can make the toolpaths in mastercam but you need a machine specific processor to generate the g codes from them. since there are multiple different types of 5 axis machines codes that work on one might crash a different machine."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1490741 && dateTime=="11/02/18(Fri)18:05:03")

You pound out the shape of a file and use a chisel to handstakingly engrave every single tooth and ridge into the metal."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1490742 && dateTime=="11/02/18(Fri)18:06:31")

>forge flat bar
>make bar have small ridges
>make bar super hard

Strange, on HSM I just pic whatever machine is being used in post processor and it spits it out like normal."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1490746 && dateTime=="11/02/18(Fri)18:09:48")

>I just pic whatever machine is being used in post processor
you probably have all those processors availible. my school either didn't pay for more than the basic 3 axis one or didn't bother installing them. we also have an edm machine that's just been sitting there for the last year because they don't want to pay for a new dpi tank."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1490748 && dateTime=="11/02/18(Fri)18:14:04")

Wow. Sounds really shitty.

I kinda wanna do that now."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1490750 && dateTime=="11/02/18(Fri)18:24:51")

>my school either didn't pay for more than the basic 3 axis one or didn't bother installing them.
Sounds about right, did you think of using Fusion360 or have you given up on having 5 axis goodness?

can't be shittier than doing 4th axis cuts with a manual mill and an indexer. this was apparently "something" every machinist does according to my shop teacher. yeah right."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1490751 && dateTime=="11/02/18(Fri)18:25:03")

Before all this, you need references. The granddaddy of all measurement is just a flat surface, like a surface plate. You can get that by just rubbing flat-ish things together until they make each other flatter (I think you need three minimum different things to rub together). Then use that to make straight edges. Then arbitrarily divide said straight edge into some sort of unit (establishing a repeatable reproducible unit itself is it's own long and difficult tale).

It's not that terrible. Look up the actual method of how they did it. You can go fairly quickly. And the master would probably just have his apprentices do all the tedious work like this."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1490758 && dateTime=="11/02/18(Fri)18:41:08")

use fusion 360, it's free for non-commercial stuff, and startups making less than 100k/year

get that 5-axis experience in bro"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1490760 && dateTime=="11/02/18(Fri)18:42:16")

didn't clickspring or whoever do a video on the history of files and how to make one the way they did?

anyway, buy soft steel, make a hardened flat-face chisel and hammer ridges into it at an angle, then harden it as good as you possibly can."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1490791 && dateTime=="11/02/18(Fri)20:30:40")

does fusion360 come with any tutorials? the metal fabrication club I'm in at my school is planning on buying some manuals for mastercam. I wanted to make a simple propeller, but apparently those are super complicated."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1490792 && dateTime=="11/02/18(Fri)20:33:55" && image=="fusion 360 instructions.jpg")

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1490796 && dateTime=="11/02/18(Fri)20:39:45")

Okuma OSP controllers, Mazak Mazatrol, Fanuc, Enshu Enac, Mitsubishi, Digi Mori/Mori Seiki.

If you learn how a Fanuc controller works, learning all of the above is quick and easy. They're pretty close together, like a language with accents. Enac is literally a Fanuc clone, Mazak likes to put the stuff in different pages but it's pretty much the same.

Just look for a controller with lots of buttons. Fanuc made some cheaper production controllers with literally no letters or number physical buttons, where you have to navigate an actual fucking scrolling menu to find a letter. It's terrible.

Still better than a fucking FAGor controller."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1490800 && dateTime=="11/02/18(Fri)20:44:41")

>that list of controllers/machines
It's not extensive mind you, there are quite a lot of other good machines and controllers. Haas actually has a pretty nice controller even if the machine can be on the cheaper side.

Mazak, Haas, and Fanuc are probably the most widespread machines/controllers depending on your area, if you know how those work you can work pretty much any other machine/controller.

Heindenhain is on the other end of the spectrum (on the Agie Charmilles Mikron I worked on). Whereas Fagor tries to simplify shit but fails horribly and ends up being a hindrance, Heindenhain Mikron tries to give you limitless ability at the expense of any similarity to other controllers or straightforward ease of use."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1490824 && dateTime=="11/02/18(Fri)21:30:15" && image=="talon grip clamp.jpg")

"is there a better work stop than these mitee bite talon grips? needs that edge that digs in, the mitee bite pitbull clamps will dig into the other side and hopefully push it into the talon grip


problem is the talon grips are $26 for 2 of them and I need like 40 of them (or more), so I will have to make them."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1490929 && dateTime=="11/03/18(Sat)00:18:34")

I mean does it come with any kind of instructions for more advanced stuff? the things I have the most trouble with in solidworks and mastercam is tangent arcs and anything involving non-orthogonal planes."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1490950 && dateTime=="11/03/18(Sat)02:02:15")

I was in the same boat a year ago. Bought some of gingery's books to get started. Honestly the book sdon't really explain the man hours required for such a project as well as a patience to learn from a several day worth of effort fuck up. Honestly, if you are looking for the sake of learning lathes and such, just get a cheap chinese mini lathe. It'll be superior to any scratch built lathe you could build, plus you can use it to build better parts for itself and other projects."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1490951 && dateTime=="11/03/18(Sat)02:05:58")

not even in field but know techs that shit on fagor lol"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1490953 && dateTime=="11/03/18(Sat)02:22:22")

all over youtube, lots of autodesk guys teaching.

nyc cnc a good source too."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1490974 && dateTime=="11/03/18(Sat)05:45:41")

I use pirated NX, it comes with a postprocessor builder so you can make a machine specific postprocessor. Maybe mastercam also comes with it, idk, don't use it."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1491610 && dateTime=="11/04/18(Sun)09:14:41")

"Anyone got any experience with phase converters? I was wondering if I needed any fancy add ons for the 50hp I ordered";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1491710 && dateTime=="11/04/18(Sun)12:14:07")

Did you do skim passes? If so, how many? Can you post a picture of your setup?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1491743 && dateTime=="11/04/18(Sun)13:01:14")

"I want to learn how to machine simple metal parts, but I've never machined anything in my life and I have no tools or even space for tools (live in an apartment).

What's a good way for me to learn?

I'm a full time PhD student at a university, so I might be able to use the machines (mill, lathe) at the mechanical engineering department."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1491778 && dateTime=="11/04/18(Sun)14:01:09")

I'm a machining student and they won't let us touch the machines until we understand how not to crash it or kill ourselves so its likely your school probably won't let you use the machines without some kind of training."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1491930 && dateTime=="11/04/18(Sun)19:24:16")

I have an American Rotary rotary phase converter, it runs an electric motor to generate the 3rd leg/phase of power to run stuff.

They have a special control box for more sensitive electronics like CNC machines."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1491952 && dateTime=="11/04/18(Sun)20:11:55")

hmm... I wonder if the capacitor bank draws power constantly while plugged in?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1491955 && dateTime=="11/04/18(Sun)20:18:38")

>Then arbitrarily divide said straight edge into some sort of unit
Why? Unless you're doing mass production and interchangeable parts, you don't need units."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1491963 && dateTime=="11/04/18(Sun)20:37:23")

Yeah, the 50hp is the AD model. How do you like AR? Has the converter given you any problems? What about power outages?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1492004 && dateTime=="11/04/18(Sun)22:17:18")

No problems with it, the generator is a baldor electric motor (gen-tec brand, says made by Baldor).

As for power outages, requires restarting the converter and machine, I think."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1492029 && dateTime=="11/04/18(Sun)23:52:25")

took my setup down and don't have any pictures, but basically I just took it down to .748 1.5" from one end, center drilled the other end, and then put my clearance diameter in the chuck with the other end in the tailstock. I used my left hand tool to take the left side down to .750, then used a right hand tool to take the right side to .702 without changing the setup.

g71 p10 q 20 d.025 u.02 w.01 f.008
n10 g00 x.702
g01 z-10. f.003
g00 x1.5
g70 p10 q20

program was basically this. I measured the part when it was done and reran the g70 line with a wear offset to get it to my exact diameter. I was too afraid I fucked it up to thread the middle part right then so I tried to indicate it in a 4 jaw on a manual lathe, but I couldn't get it straight. I ended up indicating at an arbitrary point on the right side, cutting my threads, and then taking an extra .02 off the left side hoping it would at least get those two features concentric."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1492052 && dateTime=="11/05/18(Mon)02:06:34" && image=="triceratops toy.jpg")

But if you bought a rotary converter from AR then you should learn how to grease the bearings properly.

There's a set screw on the bottom of the bearing housing at each end that you remove before pumping grease in, it pushes the old grease out through the set-screw hole so put a paper towel or something under it to catch the old grease.

>tangent arcs
>non-orthogonal planes

Ehh pic related maybe

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1492053 && dateTime=="11/05/18(Mon)02:07:36" && image=="triceratops toy2.jpg")


if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1492054 && dateTime=="11/05/18(Mon)02:08:39" && image=="triceratops toy3.jpg")


if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1492144 && dateTime=="11/05/18(Mon)08:24:42")

can you model things like that dinosaur in fusion 360 or is it easier to make it in something like maya and import it?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1492154 && dateTime=="11/05/18(Mon)08:52:39")

I don't know, I've never used something like Maya.

I grabbed that model from grabcad then attached it to a cylindrical base."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1493065 && dateTime=="11/06/18(Tue)23:07:13")

"is there a free g code simulator that doesn't suck? trying to debug a program and it's a pain in the ass trying to do it on the actual controller.";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1493080 && dateTime=="11/07/18(Wed)00:24:57")

What are you doing you need something like that for?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1493081 && dateTime=="11/07/18(Wed)00:29:28")

He might be trying to figure out if the machine he's on is not doing commands correctly and simultaneously working with a shit program"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1493085 && dateTime=="11/07/18(Wed)01:05:10")

I've used OpenSCAM a few times, it's not great and it only has 3 axis simulation, but it works for that"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1493128 && dateTime=="11/07/18(Wed)04:15:25")


if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1493131 && dateTime=="11/07/18(Wed)04:35:29")

>can you model things like that dinosaur in fusion 360

Didn't see this part, yes you can."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1493140 && dateTime=="11/07/18(Wed)05:47:01")

"NYC CNC guy is getting pretty interesting these days. In 10 years he'll probably be managing a multi-billion dollar business."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1493265 && dateTime=="11/07/18(Wed)11:58:01")

>multi-billion dollar business
no lol, he'll probably never get bigger than a few million. he's really trying to get away from job shopping and getting into educating and making his own products which is a small amount of money compared to job shopping."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1493446 && dateTime=="11/07/18(Wed)17:49:12")

>Not surprised those perform poorly on any old machine in any old material, but if you really push that fucker through some prehard stuff or something you might see a difference?

Yeah the different helix speeds, variable flutes, all the other more specialized options they have on their endmills are not new or unique. Its just marketing trying to spin it as new and unique.
The feedback we get arent just randoms with whatever machines. Its from the tool cribs buying hundreds of single tool types, buying what works best for their processes."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1493451 && dateTime=="11/07/18(Wed)17:54:34")

dude ur loaded"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494103 && dateTime=="11/09/18(Fri)00:11:41")

">make part between centers so everything will be concentric
>somehow still fuck it up
why does this always happen? am I not cut out for this work?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494104 && dateTime=="11/09/18(Fri)00:17:42")

probably didn't have the part on the centers good or something"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494178 && dateTime=="11/09/18(Fri)06:22:05")

Do you even 4 jaw chuck? Do you even dial test indicate?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494184 && dateTime=="11/09/18(Fri)06:47:16")

you didn't take out the center or something did you?

lock the tailstock perhaps?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494201 && dateTime=="11/09/18(Fri)08:25:53" && image=="IMG-20181109-WA0000.jpg")

"How bad did I fuck up?";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494254 && dateTime=="11/09/18(Fri)10:18:35")

oof, that's a nice cutter and you can't just replace the pad and be good, it will keep breaking inserts on that corner.

so, probably fucked up good."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494262 && dateTime=="11/09/18(Fri)10:31:03")

I recut the center in the spindle every time I had to stop and start again."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494282 && dateTime=="11/09/18(Fri)10:50:45")

maybe the material had some stress in it?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494296 && dateTime=="11/09/18(Fri)11:32:58")

that mainly works for grinding, turning still adds some stress to the workpiece"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494313 && dateTime=="11/09/18(Fri)12:06:50")

what does that mean? I was cutting some 12l14. I started over twice because I kept fucking up"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494316 && dateTime=="11/09/18(Fri)12:10:41")

so many things to keep in mind when turning between centers.
post pic of
your setup?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494318 && dateTime=="11/09/18(Fri)12:14:56")

the material wants to bend into a certain shape when you remove material from it and weaken it, on seamed tubing it will try to flatten out the way it was before it was rolled into a tube and welded (a flat sheet).

Watch this video for some info on overcoming material stress:

if you're using the very ends of a long bar they will want to curl up like a banana, usually."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494320 && dateTime=="11/09/18(Fri)12:26:34")

take off the opposite one and if there are any raised surfaces where that broke off, grind it down and use it?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494325 && dateTime=="11/09/18(Fri)12:36:06")

oh crap wrong video, he's only facing the ends of that tube there...

here ya go:"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494364 && dateTime=="11/09/18(Fri)13:37:05")

That's not the proper way to do it. If it doesn't run true then it doesn't run true."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494369 && dateTime=="11/09/18(Fri)13:38:49")

I don't get it"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494370 && dateTime=="11/09/18(Fri)13:40:25")

he had a rod stuck in the chuck that he turned a cone shape on every time he re-installed it, is what I think he means.

it should work fine, but I would say it won't engage in the center you put in the bar exactly the same every time."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494371 && dateTime=="11/09/18(Fri)13:40:46")

"Very nice OP!";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494374 && dateTime=="11/09/18(Fri)13:47:10")

"Is there any particular reason why we aren't seeing a home CNC revolution like the home 3D printing revolution that's currently taking place?";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494375 && dateTime=="11/09/18(Fri)13:49:52")

still costs material ($$$), time and skill to use."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494376 && dateTime=="11/09/18(Fri)13:53:56")

Your tail stock needs to be aligned with the center of your spindle and your chuck needs to be running concentric to the spindle as well. Even a 3 jaw needs indicated once in a while. Put something precision in the chuck and check the runout. It should be within a couple thou. Then when that's running true, get the tailstock involved, that's also adjustable side to side."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494380 && dateTime=="11/09/18(Fri)13:56:30")

Because unlike 3D printers, CNC machines aren't toys and require a good bit of skill and knowledge to use."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494382 && dateTime=="11/09/18(Fri)14:01:12")


>Skill to use

Are you suggesting there's no skill in properly using a 3D printer?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494394 && dateTime=="11/09/18(Fri)14:07:59")

There's very little skill in reaching the bare minimum level with PLA, especially if you buy a Prusa or some other expensive brand of turnkey printers. But even at its deepest, there is less skill in 3D printing with plastic than in any kind of metalworking CNC."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494444 && dateTime=="11/09/18(Fri)15:12:06")

like I said I cut the center in the spindle before I put anything on it and I checked the tailstock with a test bar."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494446 && dateTime=="11/09/18(Fri)15:17:55")

That doesn't matter, check your fucking chuck and then come back."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494459 && dateTime=="11/09/18(Fri)15:34:23")

">casually watch machining videos
>dick jokes
>dick jokes everywhere
>especially the Haas channel"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494467 && dateTime=="11/09/18(Fri)16:01:19")

>not liking to work with shafts all day
>not liking to put milky white lubricant on
>not making stainless steel dildo for an order
(Not kidding this was a mold order for a giant dick and balls dubbed goliath)"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494516 && dateTime=="11/09/18(Fri)17:08:05" && image=="NIGEL-FARAGE.jpg")

>even at its deepest, there is less skill in 3D printing with plastic than in any kind of metalworking CNC"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494529 && dateTime=="11/09/18(Fri)17:32:50")


If he is getting away from job shopping, it is because he realized he could not make money doing it. What he is doing is pushing for higher margins. I think this is smart. I was looking at some of his workholding stuff, it is super simple, the kind of thing you might whip up ad-hoc, but for the price just might be worthwhile to have around."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494543 && dateTime=="11/09/18(Fri)18:05:26")

>2k for a fixture plate
I mean if you have the money go for it"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494544 && dateTime=="11/09/18(Fri)18:07:28")

John's problem is that he doesn't like lathes and older equipment, seriously a mill turn would have turned his quaint little business into a large one."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494567 && dateTime=="11/09/18(Fri)19:17:47")

There is literally nothing hard about 3D printing shit out of plastic."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494569 && dateTime=="11/09/18(Fri)19:24:23")

>I recut the center in the spindle every time I had to stop and start again.
Please elaborate what the "center" you're recutting is because if it's what most of us think of when we hear "lathe center" you're an idiot."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494583 && dateTime=="11/09/18(Fri)19:48:48")

>Apprentice in a Machine Shop
>Dick jokes
>Dick jokes literally everywhere
>It's hard to go 30 minutes without hearing a dick joke

In all honesty it doesn't sound like youtube is all that far off from a actual shop, it's dick jokes all the way down."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494646 && dateTime=="11/09/18(Fri)22:34:03")

>seriously a mill turn would have turned his quaint little business into a large one.

The guy obviously does not have a lot of $. He mentioned at one point some of the guys around there were interns (I assume unpaid). What I find super interesting about the guy is that he is successfully bootstrapping himself. Lots of people talk about it, but he is doing it.

Not that I am any sort of badass, but I get the feeling most of his work is not exactly tight tolerance.

Anyway, I don't think he can afford to drop $250k - (big fucking number) on a mill turn, and does not have a business model to justify it.

$2k would be a rounding error on a new machine. But I'm referring in particular to his tiny vice stuff as a component in your own fixturing. Almost throw away cheap."

if(Sage && title=="" && postNumber==1494665 && dateTime=="11/09/18(Fri)23:37:10")

I’ve been machining (absolutely NO programming) for 5 months and I make 38k"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494684 && dateTime=="11/10/18(Sat)00:19:39")

I still don't get it then. even if your stock is way off in a 4 jaw once you cut it should be concentric."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494687 && dateTime=="11/10/18(Sat)00:22:42")

I am stuck with a ghetto setup and there's nothing I can do about it. there's no faceplate so I have to put a straight shank dead center in the normal chuck and hook the drive dog onto one of the jaws."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494690 && dateTime=="11/10/18(Sat)00:30:03")

that should work just fine"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494691 && dateTime=="11/10/18(Sat)00:30:34")

were your centers not actually in the center of the workpiece?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494692 && dateTime=="11/10/18(Sat)00:33:25")

well it was center drilled at both ends so it should have been"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494697 && dateTime=="11/10/18(Sat)00:41:24")

Not if he's been taking it in and out like he said he has.

Then there's something else going on. Is there a reason you can't do it in one shot? How out is the concentricity? How are you checking that it's out? How big is the part, how big is the lathe? There's a lot of questions you need to answer before real help can be given."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494711 && dateTime=="11/10/18(Sat)01:21:10")

">tfw might be homeless soon and am going to try and go around from machine shop to machine shop begging to sweep their floors and clean their machines if they'll let me learn

I'm in a school for CNC machining, but right now I need a foot in the door to get in. What can I do to convince someone to give me the chance to show what I'm worth?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494712 && dateTime=="11/10/18(Sat)01:21:39")

Where are you at?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494713 && dateTime=="11/10/18(Sat)01:22:24")

Reno Nevada, USA

I'd prefer to stay where I am, but I'm not completely against the idea of moving where the work is."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494715 && dateTime=="11/10/18(Sat)01:25:22")

Sorry man, wrong side of the country."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494717 && dateTime=="11/10/18(Sat)01:30:19")

I still appreciate it. You didn't have to take the time to respond.

When I get a job I'll let you guys know."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494721 && dateTime=="11/10/18(Sat)01:34:07")

Either do a contract for a shop or a business, get some work experience, or create your own product to sell?

Southern IL here, what's happening?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494727 && dateTime=="11/10/18(Sat)01:40:06")

>what's happening
Anon needs a job and he's kinda what we're looking for at my shop but he's on the other side of the country so it's not going to happen."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494728 && dateTime=="11/10/18(Sat)01:40:20")

I'm trying to find some place that will let me work there and possibly come in on my days off to learn skills if its possible.

I've been thinking of asking one of my teachers in the program I'm in if I can get a reference and possibly if he knows someone that needs someone to clean out CNC machines and sweep floors.

I'm just trying to find anything that lets me learn and build my skills because right now all I have is some basic gcode programming and blueprint reading. I'm working on learning fusion360 right now as well to try and help my case."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494730 && dateTime=="11/10/18(Sat)01:44:11")

I'm putting my test indicator against it and spinning it around. there's around 1-4 thousands of movement depending on where I put it. the part is 14 inches long."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494732 && dateTime=="11/10/18(Sat)01:45:26")

O-ok. What kinda stuff you doing?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494742 && dateTime=="11/10/18(Sat)02:05:48")

Don't, everyone uses mastercam, legit version or not. Go look up the Haas programming books. They're a great intro even though some of it is HAAS only code. Most of it will work on most machines though for cutter comp and drill cycles. No one will hire you to sweep floors. Practice your shop math, make sure you can read a print and know what the symbols mean and how to use a caliper."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494744 && dateTime=="11/10/18(Sat)02:09:16")

That's not how you check concentricity. At best that gives you circularity. You need to take the part out and put it on a V block then check the other diameters to the one resting in the block."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494747 && dateTime=="11/10/18(Sat)02:13:38")

if it isn't round you must have cut an eccentric into it.

need calipers or a mic to check the diameter in several places along the bar.

surface plate inspection is better of course"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494748 && dateTime=="11/10/18(Sat)02:17:36")

Putting it flat on a surface plate won't check concentricity either, it needs a V block or some kind of precision rotary holder."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494751 && dateTime=="11/10/18(Sat)02:20:14")

Thank you for the advice. I will look into the programming books and try to find a way to get access to mastercam."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494754 && dateTime=="11/10/18(Sat)02:24:36")

It's easy to pirate but the USB emulator is dicks to get working."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494755 && dateTime=="11/10/18(Sat)02:30:07")


if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494757 && dateTime=="11/10/18(Sat)02:39:18")

if it's round and the axis of rotation is the centerline of the part doesn't that mean it's concentric? what good does checking diameter do?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494776 && dateTime=="11/10/18(Sat)03:23:39" && image=="pallet.jpg")


not seen this "fixture strip" technique titan is showing off here. Not sure how it would be better than the pallet I'm working on.

A few shitty hex clamps and ready to carve 20 or so out of a long bar."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494778 && dateTime=="11/10/18(Sat)03:27:09")

btw anyone have any experience using aluminum for fixtures like that? how quickly do they really wear out? My machine is nothing special horsepower wise.

I have a 3/8 steel plate subplate I'm going to make some T slot keys to fit to the table for, and on top of that aluminum flat bars with clamps and pins to hold the aluminum workpieces."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494781 && dateTime=="11/10/18(Sat)03:29:34")

workpiece bar then gets flipped over into the dick mold bar with individual pitbull clamps to finish it off.


if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494783 && dateTime=="11/10/18(Sat)03:43:15")

The spinning top episode is my favorite."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494784 && dateTime=="11/10/18(Sat)03:45:34")

welp, Titans academy videos have actually been useful.

mitee bite locating rails are some hardened steel for backing up stuff on aluminum fixture plates. Definitely not going to pay $35 for a single 10" piece though. Damn, they aren't even hardened.

Surface grinder comes in handy again.

Definitely the fiber rope vs steel cable one."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494785 && dateTime=="11/10/18(Sat)03:52:07")

Tormach owner here.

If you're a trained machinist you'll hate having to slow things down and make compromises on the tormach.

If you're just starting out the tormach is a good choice because you'll save way more than 5 grand because you'll be spending 30 dollars per tool holder instead of 100+. You don't have to worry about 3 phase power or if your concrete can handle the weight. If you break something you can fix it yourself and don't have to have a technician do it. The rapids are slower so if you mess up your offsets you won't be as likely to wreck the whole machine. etc. etc.

I've actually worked with nice machines so I get frustrated with my tormach, but at the end of the day I realize I am making all that I want to and for way less money, I'm just not making it at the speed you'd want if you had to make 10,000 of a part."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494788 && dateTime=="11/10/18(Sat)04:07:17")

I do both, it's a different kind of challenge. I'm guessing you have no experience with FDM beyond at most grabbing a premade profile then wondering why your supports are falling over.

The main difference in terms of absolute difficulty is that FDM mistakes are cheaper."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494789 && dateTime=="11/10/18(Sat)04:11:12")

Weight is important but not everything.

Ways always come in pairs and the further apart you can make them the stiffer the saddle will be.
Will you buy linear rails?

High end machines use both cast iron and a concrete materials together so that the rates of expansion and contraction and flex work against each other.

Just like everthing DIY buying some cheap Chinese product is cheaper and faster and make work fine, but if you want to have fun and learn about machine design, I hope to see you build something cool!"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494790 && dateTime=="11/10/18(Sat)04:16:31")

>build something cool

I knew that spunky look on the guy's face meant something."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494795 && dateTime=="11/10/18(Sat)05:10:03" && image=="FVOOSGOI0DOCD2G.LARGE.jpg")

"How can I learn classical technical engineering drawing, with pencils and rulers? I know I could just use Solidworks, but it's cool to see it on paper. And I also don't have a computer powerful enough.";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494804 && dateTime=="11/10/18(Sat)06:13:10")


Find a book from the 1920's or 30's.

also this:"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494817 && dateTime=="11/10/18(Sat)06:42:21")


Oh yeah, in section 3.4 of the gtri document they recommend not specifying the dimensions of fastener holes or related cbores. That's just lazy, and will cause you problems later. Look up proper values (tight vs loose) from the machinist's handbook and use them in your drawing.

Re computer speed, even a $500 pc can run CAD just fine. The software is what is expensive - I think lots of software vendors are doing free/low cost entry level things these days to get you hooked.

I started with pencil and paper, but full parametric 3D CAD really is the only way to go in the end. The old pencil and paper skills are vastly under appreciated these days - though NOT for drawing creation. A drawing is really a specialized language to machine shop, and until you have thought about all machining opps and tolerance stackups, etc, etc, etc. and communicated this by your drawing your design/engineering is not yet done.

As far as the projected drawings go, parametric CAD makes that super simple. 3d model to 2d projections is a button click or two, then the dimensioning and fab notes can take forever (normally this is where I figure out tolerance stackups and finalize dimensions).

By all means, work with paper now, but as you get serious I think you will quickly find modern software tools amazing. There is nothing wrong with knowing the old methods though, and old hand lettered drawings can truly be things to admire."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494830 && dateTime=="11/10/18(Sat)07:15:59")

Thanks, I'll check it out.

>even a $500 pc can run CAD just fine
I'm from a 3rd world shithole, $500 is a fuckton of money here.

>even a $500 pc can run CAD just fine
That's not even a problem, you can just search "Cracked Solidworks torrent download". I actually have it installed, but it doesn't work well."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494831 && dateTime=="11/10/18(Sat)07:31:19")

>I'm from a 3rd world shithole, $500 is a fuckton of money here.

gotcha. This means some of my advice is wrong.

Note that the gtri document is going to create kind of American style drawings. They recommend using 3rd angle instead of 1st angle. This is the way God and Mr. Ford would have wanted. As far as I know the rest of the world uses 1st angle projection, which is really weird, but that is just the way it is.

In general American drawings tend to really speak to machinists with lots of fabrication related notes, whereas eurofags have more highly regimented dimensioning and tolerancing standards. I prefer the American style drawings, but you should do what you have to do. In general a proper drawing in either style fully specifies every dimension and has a tolerance for everything.

Take your best drawing of a part you want to a machine shop when they are not super busy and odds are they will tell you what is wrong with it."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494833 && dateTime=="11/10/18(Sat)07:33:56" && image=="Image650717953.jpg")

The rails I'm still thinking about. A lot of the stuff I'll try to find scrap or cheap stuff for, but the rails will probably be new for quality's sake. I read a little about rail geometry, and was initially going to use round bar even though that geometry isn't really ideal, but now I'm leaning towards a triangular shape. If i used square bar stock, rotated 45°, then welded onto a little bit of plate to attach to the rest of the bed, I could make the triangular rails quite easily, then I can just get some telescoping matching SHS for stuff to go on the rails, with a corner ground off.

This rail design could either be double sided and sandwiched between the two SHS', or single sided and bolted to the attachment points. I noticed that some lathes have a third or fourth rail, which I could also do. Then if it's three rails, the pinion could go on the free spot.

>N.B.: there'll be a lot of welding in my design, because I bought one and want to git gud at it"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494862 && dateTime=="11/10/18(Sat)08:47:09")

"How can I get something flat and parallel without a surface grinder?
I have a milling vise and the hard jaw was thicker at one end by a couple thousandths, enough that parts would slide down the other side because all the clamping force was on the other side.
I tried lapping it with sandpaper flat on a granite plate, just putting pressure on the thicker edge, checking it with the micrometer often and changing where I pressed down on it and how hard.
Doing it that way I got it so that it's equal at both sides, but in the middle it bulges out by about half a thou. When I keep lapping it, it's just removing material equally from the whole surface when I put pressure in the middle.
it's probably good enough where it's at, but if I wanted to get it flat to that extra half a thou, how would I do it?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494892 && dateTime=="11/10/18(Sat)10:16:39")

a milling vise hard jaw shouldn't be flexing from your hand pressure a half thou... get a more rigid surface plate?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494896 && dateTime=="11/10/18(Sat)10:19:11")

you could try the aluminum foil method, tape a sheet of aluminum foil down to your surface plate, put some lapping compound onto it, thin it out with some lighter fluid or similar, then use a hardened rod to roll/press the lapping compound into the aluminum foil."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494903 && dateTime=="11/10/18(Sat)10:32:46")


if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494906 && dateTime=="11/10/18(Sat)10:40:12")

I don't think it's flexing, I think it's rolling on the vise jaw's surface because it's got a curve to it.
Also I don't think it's possible to get more rigid than a block of granite."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494910 && dateTime=="11/10/18(Sat)10:46:54" && image=="toolbits.jpg")

Oh, so you're having a hard time keeping pressure on the right edge of it?

I've heard it's hard to scrape hardened stuff, but I would still try it.

with a honed square end pic related on a stick, or maybe one of those cermet inserts on a stick."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494912 && dateTime=="11/10/18(Sat)10:50:22" && image=="positive triangle cermet insert holder for scraping.jpg")

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494919 && dateTime=="11/10/18(Sat)11:00:15")

GD&T is a complicated thing. For concentricity your datum isn't part centerline, it's centerline of two features. If he doesn't have a V block, what he can do is mark it out on the part. Find the high side and low side, if they're in the same "pie slice" from the face of the part then it should be concentric. The way he's checking now is just giving him runout/circularity."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494921 && dateTime=="11/10/18(Sat)11:02:22" && image=="3d adaptive is nice.jpg")

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494922 && dateTime=="11/10/18(Sat)11:03:42")

Oh wait I get your question now. I don't mean measure the actual diameters, I'm saying put it in a V block and a test indicator ona different diameter. Then you spin the part. Assuming the parts are true round, any movement is your lack of concentricity."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494925 && dateTime=="11/10/18(Sat)11:07:33")

Solid works runs on raider
>the rest of the world uses 1st angle projection, which is really weird, but that is just the way it is.
>Tfw I fucked up like 500 parts because of this shit"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494927 && dateTime=="11/10/18(Sat)11:08:27")

>having a hard time keeping pressure on the right edge of it?
The edges were easy, but the middle isn't because any pressure I put on the middle ends up distributed over the whole surface as it rolls back and forth slightly.
I can try scraping, I've done that before to take off high spots but not on a large(ish) surface like this."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494928 && dateTime=="11/10/18(Sat)11:08:57")


if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494930 && dateTime=="11/10/18(Sat)11:14:14" && image=="cermet.jpg")

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494966 && dateTime=="11/10/18(Sat)12:33:48")

>Anyway, I don't think he can afford to drop $250k - (big fucking number) on a mill turn, and does not have a business model to justify it.
Mine was 50k. About 20 yr old works fine barely used except on aluminum and nozzle brass fittings."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494987 && dateTime=="11/10/18(Sat)13:35:54")

so you mean both features can be within tolerance for roundness but still have different centerlines?

how do you spin it if it's in a v block?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1495046 && dateTime=="11/10/18(Sat)15:11:40")

"New thread


if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1495067 && dateTime=="11/10/18(Sat)15:48:30")

Amazing. What brand and model is it?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1495147 && dateTime=="11/10/18(Sat)19:19:37")

>so you mean both features can be within tolerance for roundness but still have different centerlines?
Yes. Usually this only happens when you take a part out and put it back in to cut the other feature but if you cut one feature and something fucks up your alignment that can cause it too.

>how do you spin it if it's in a v block?
You apply light pressure downward and just roll it. Do it gently and stop every few degrees. Unless your surface finish is total ass, it's not that hard once you actually have your hands on it and try it."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1495890 && dateTime=="11/12/18(Mon)01:48:40")

Is this sort of forming even a thing in the US or elsewhere? It's interesting since he managed to make the part with barely any waste material."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1496608 && dateTime=="11/13/18(Tue)08:27:18")

metal spinning? probably, I don't know of any places that do it though. I would guess that the work is outsourced to poor people in Asia or elsewhere."