import 4.code.options;
import 4.code.about;

class Header{

public void title(){

String fullTitle = "/diy/ - Do-It-Yourself";

public void menu();

public void board();

public void goToBottom();

public void refresh(a);

class Thread extends Board{
public void /3DPG/(OP Anonymous){

String fullTitle = "/3DPG/";
int postNumber = "1493921";
String image = "3dp9.jpg";
String date = "11/08/18(Thu)16:55:37";
String comment = "Old and complicated thread: >>1486813

Simplicity edition...

Need help with prints? Post:
>filament type, bed & extruder temp, print & fan speed, etc

>general info
Additive Manufacturing Technologies:3D Printing, Rapid Prototyping, and Direct Digital Manufacturing, Gibson Rosen Stucker

>open source community
#RepRap @freenode

>buyfag buyers guide
Any cheap chinkshit kit

>basic 3d printing FAQs (lots of useful stuff)

>why do my prints look like shit, visual troubleshooting

>how to calibrate's_Calibration_Guide

>where do I get files to print?

>what programs do you make your own files with

>what kind of filament do I want
Begin with a roll of known brand PLA before moving to more demanding materials.

e3d and its clones
BMG or E3D

>Make collage for the next thread"

public void comments(){
if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1493958 && dateTime=="11/08/18(Thu)18:14:52")

"Can litophane be done with transparent or orther than white filament?";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494144 && dateTime=="11/09/18(Fri)03:24:40" && image=="Prints.jpg")

">>1493872 here, we bunched together all of the prints. A huge variety in different methods - some more succesfull than others.";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494148 && dateTime=="11/09/18(Fri)03:31:55")

"To the attention of the guy who printed a gun with DLP that was full of lines:";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494189 && dateTime=="11/09/18(Fri)07:20:11" && image=="Trash.jpg")

And here's what's left of them. Highest result: 170kN (17 metric tonnes), that's a fuckload for a print with only 4 hours of printtime on an UM2. I'm glad I put the 200kN software limit in this morning, our load cell can't take more than 250...."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494192 && dateTime=="11/09/18(Fri)07:24:05")

Which one won?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494225 && dateTime=="11/09/18(Fri)09:27:07")

"Thinking of getting a Geeetech A10M to give 2-into-1 dual extrusion printing a go (to leave my main production printers unmoletsted). Is there a compelling reason to not get it? I'd just be using it for dual color, not multi material (e.g. soluble supports)";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494228 && dateTime=="11/09/18(Fri)09:29:05")

Yes, I've seen it done with opaque red but it was less than a mm thick"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494230 && dateTime=="11/09/18(Fri)09:36:56")

"After i send m600 to change filament will the printer rehome itself after resumig print? since i always accidentally move the nozle when changing the filament, and this is the first time i need to do it mid print";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494232 && dateTime=="11/09/18(Fri)09:37:21" && image=="45143362_332947614187300_6709447800704204800_o.jpg")

"Pew Pew Daily Dose";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494234 && dateTime=="11/09/18(Fri)09:38:59")

Wait what restrictions were there other than the 60mm hole?
Surely you put in a minimum height?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494237 && dateTime=="11/09/18(Fri)09:47:48" && image=="IMG_20181109_154517.jpg")

"this is the first and last fucking multicolor print i have ever done.
such a tiny print and so much fucking work.
first the power cable fell out during the first filament change so i had to put the old one back and reprint, the the filament broke during second change, and print failed and then on 3rd attempt after changing the filament again it finally worked. Fucking 30 minutes of constant for for 5 minute fucking print.
FUCK THIS next time i will just color it with a fucking sharpie"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494247 && dateTime=="11/09/18(Fri)09:55:28")

Restrictions were:
>60mm spherical cutout
>Needs to be printed on an UM2+
>Needs to be printed within 4 hours
>Show us Solidworks, .stl and .gcode so we can see you aren't a cheating bastard that puts support in the spherical cutout
Apart from that, no restrictions. Next year we'll make the cutout 80-100mm to make sure they don't destroy our load cell."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494248 && dateTime=="11/09/18(Fri)10:00:36")

But wait, what's stopping someone from just making a 5mm thick print and filling the whole print plate with plastic? There has got to be a minimum height, this doesn't make sense."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494249 && dateTime=="11/09/18(Fri)10:06:03")

Thanks doc"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494257 && dateTime=="11/09/18(Fri)10:22:04" && image=="Knipsel.jpg")

The cutout is spherical, about the size of a tennis ball (pic related), so the print by definition needs to be 60mm high."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494264 && dateTime=="11/09/18(Fri)10:34:18")

I wonder if you could do something really dirty like printing a fast shell then just extruding like the Dickens into the space at 20C hotter."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494265 && dateTime=="11/09/18(Fri)10:36:30")

Ah i see
Was the winner by any chance just a 60mm high pipe with 60mm inner diameter and as much wall thickness as you can get in 4 hours?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494269 && dateTime=="11/09/18(Fri)10:41:03" && image=="collage5.jpg")

The winner was left bottom in this pic, I'll upload high res next. Basically, a beer keg with a 60mm spherical hole in it, it managed to hold 170kN and then exploded in spectacular fashion.

The trick is using a lot of wall thickness and 70-90% infill, that way the material is much more efficiently used. You then up the wall speed to where you can get to within 4 hours, and presto, print. Like I said, some teams were doing 0.8 nozzles, 0.6 layer heights @ 110m/s, that's well over 1cc/min."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494272 && dateTime=="11/09/18(Fri)10:42:07" && image=="20181109_093449.jpg")

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494274 && dateTime=="11/09/18(Fri)10:42:41")

lol what are some of those prints"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494277 && dateTime=="11/09/18(Fri)10:43:40")

That's ingenious, love the simplicity. I don't get what the design at the top, second from the left was going for."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494280 && dateTime=="11/09/18(Fri)10:48:51")

Remember, these are first year students with a few weeks of Solidworks training at most. What works great in CAD doesn't always work, and it's a harsh reality once they get printed. It's exactly the kind of lessons they need, and it's a much worse error if you design something in CAD, sent it out for CNC milling at a huge price, and then it comes out weak, frail and broken."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494283 && dateTime=="11/09/18(Fri)10:52:55")

Might I suggest an interesting modification to the challenge, perhaps for the second year?

All the entries are ranked from 1-n based upon the final maximum loading but they're also ranked by material used, 1 point for 1st, 2 for 2nd and so on. The two scores are combined and the winner is the one with the lowest total score."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494286 && dateTime=="11/09/18(Fri)10:55:40")

We already did that. Made a scale from 1 to 10 for maximum load, print time, and material used. All three combined gave us our overall winner, which was the third model from the right in the top row. Highest load (which is more exciting to me and most people ITT) was left bottom."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494331 && dateTime=="11/09/18(Fri)12:50:08")

Is there any rule as to which designs performed better? I assume things like the cage-looking ones failed almost immediately, followed by the egg-shaped ones since they'd just fold/telescope inwards"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494432 && dateTime=="11/09/18(Fri)14:44:55")

The cage types ones were mostly too frail to succeed, they failed below 10kN. The eggs were funny since they have a load peak, fold inwards, then have another peak, then fold in, repeat untill you hit the bottom of them. Some actually got quite strong eventually, exceeding 30kN.
The strongest ones are just plain 2D (mostly) cylinders with careful selection of wall thickness, infill and loads of material pumped into them. The beer keg was the strongest despite not being completely 2D."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494437 && dateTime=="11/09/18(Fri)14:54:45" && image=="Spline (2).jpg")

Was there anything like pic related where 100% of the material went to wall thickness and a stable shape rather than having an infill? How did those perform?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494439 && dateTime=="11/09/18(Fri)14:58:51")

Anon that's a bad shape, remember the 4 hour time limit? That thing has got a load of accelerations and deceleration."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494440 && dateTime=="11/09/18(Fri)15:07:01" && image=="20181109_220602.jpg")

"Just fuck my shit up.";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494445 && dateTime=="11/09/18(Fri)15:17:50")

Not really, I'm almost tempted to try it myself and strap it into the testing machine next week."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494449 && dateTime=="11/09/18(Fri)15:19:16")

How retarded do you have to be to fuck up this bad? All you are doing is pausing and changing the filament, it isn't hard"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494474 && dateTime=="11/09/18(Fri)16:12:10" && image=="ito.jpg")

"What kind of braid is this supposed to be?";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494645 && dateTime=="11/09/18(Fri)22:29:46")

"Where's that guy who said he'd post a comparison between a Form 2 and chinese DLPs?";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494657 && dateTime=="11/09/18(Fri)23:02:16")

No supports for that overhang?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494661 && dateTime=="11/09/18(Fri)23:14:33")

wait, so the best performing print was able to suspend 38000 lbf? What am I missing here?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494791 && dateTime=="11/10/18(Sat)04:20:04")

Anon it's not supposed to be an overhang.
That's the point."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494793 && dateTime=="11/10/18(Sat)04:48:40")

Not him but isn't it printed vertically from left to right?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494808 && dateTime=="11/10/18(Sat)06:20:09" && image=="20181110_131735.jpg")

This model does not require any supports.
I hate supports and if possible make my designs not require them.
With that print the nozzle stuck and caused an extruder to skip a few steps causing a failure of the whole print."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494810 && dateTime=="11/10/18(Sat)06:21:19")


if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494826 && dateTime=="11/10/18(Sat)07:04:18")

Tsukamaki; it's technically not a braid. Good luck making it."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494827 && dateTime=="11/10/18(Sat)07:05:44" && image=="IMG_20181110_120318.jpg")

"How to remove this edgy logo from my ender?";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494838 && dateTime=="11/10/18(Sat)07:42:40")

Printer? The whole thing looks like you're either going a bit too fast or your Z screw is wobbling."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494853 && dateTime=="11/10/18(Sat)08:35:47" && image=="junk.jpg")

"Fuck Fusion360";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494860 && dateTime=="11/10/18(Sat)08:44:08")

Lol don't extrude a curved surface bruh."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494884 && dateTime=="11/10/18(Sat)09:39:00")

"Does anyone know if Cura can lower the extrusion rate when approaching the end of a line? What I mean is, when using low acceleration/high speed, you tend to round sharp corners by over extruding due to the pressure build up in the printhead.";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494911 && dateTime=="11/10/18(Sat)10:47:37")

"does the ender 3 come with a mini usb cable in the box or do you have to buy one?";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494913 && dateTime=="11/10/18(Sat)10:52:16")

Offset face, not push/pull"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494924 && dateTime=="11/10/18(Sat)11:06:59")

Yes. That's about 6 or 7 brand new crew cab pickups in terms of weight - impressive by anyone's standards."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494970 && dateTime=="11/10/18(Sat)12:40:20")

What is the test? The weight it can hold when plates are stacked ontop?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494982 && dateTime=="11/10/18(Sat)13:29:35")

The test is put it into an Instron testing machine, crush it with up to 250kN of force, and then see which one could take the highest amount of load for the lowest amount of printtime and material."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494983 && dateTime=="11/10/18(Sat)13:31:03")

>Instron testing machine
that fucking triggered me"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494985 && dateTime=="11/10/18(Sat)13:32:33")

Why? It's not a tensometer if you're using it to test compression strength."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494990 && dateTime=="11/10/18(Sat)13:51:19")

It is called a fucking universal testing machine."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494993 && dateTime=="11/10/18(Sat)13:54:39")

It's literally called a ''Pullbench'' in my native language, but I'll use UTM next time."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1494998 && dateTime=="11/10/18(Sat)13:57:43")


neat, it's like a more advanced bridge building project

ur out of ur mind"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1495001 && dateTime=="11/10/18(Sat)14:06:50")

>ur out of ur mind
Care to elaborate?

It doesnt matter how it is called in other languages unless you call it by its correct name. But an Instron testing machine? Does it test Instrons? Its fine if you say "ill do tests on the Instron". Its like calling every car an Audi because you drive an Audi.

Vent over"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1495002 && dateTime=="11/10/18(Sat)14:08:33")

>Does it test Instrons?
We've got a smaller one that we could probably crush in the bigger one. In that case it would indeed be an Instron testing machine."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1495035 && dateTime=="11/10/18(Sat)14:59:42")

Fair enough.

Are you satisfied with the machine by the way?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1495045 && dateTime=="11/10/18(Sat)15:11:30")

As far as I know our uni didn't pay for it (Instron 5980 btw), and we haven't broken it yet, so I guess it's good enough. Attachments are easy to swap, it can deal with the loads we put it up against, only downside is the software that runs on an ancient desktop computer next to it. Also, .csv datasets are in English notation, which needs conversion if you want to make nice Excel graphs in our language version. I'd prefer if it could just generate a .csv dataset for all test samples in a batch at once, that would make it a bit easier for analysing data afterwards - but if you're doing testing at 10mm/min, you have plenty of time to sort your data while the machine is running."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1495050 && dateTime=="11/10/18(Sat)15:18:04")

Thtas an oldish software then, ours can dump out multiple measurements if needed. Still the software sucks.
The machine on the other hands is garbage, noisy as fuck signals, fine if you are above 1kN load.
Better than nothing i guess."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1495069 && dateTime=="11/10/18(Sat)15:55:52" && image=="VID-20181109-WA0000.webm")

Here's a .webm of the winning one failing in spectacular fashion. Sadly, it lacks the audio of that thing blowing apart and me cursing within 0.1 seconds of that."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1495167 && dateTime=="11/10/18(Sat)19:58:26")

Why not? It worked before, but now it's busted.

It automatically selects offset face when you use push/pull there."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1495319 && dateTime=="11/11/18(Sun)03:47:21")

"I kinda wanna buy a CR-10, but I'd like to mod it to include dual Z lead screws, autoleveling, an E3D hotend, and a direct drive extruder to be able to print flexible materials. When you add all that up, and of course the time and effort it takes to mod it, is there any reason I shouldn't just buy a Prusa i3 MK3 instead?";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1495350 && dateTime=="11/11/18(Sun)05:48:08")

Just buy a corexy kit and replace the hot end. A number of them come with induction sensors, but you can use a touch sensor just as easily."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1495371 && dateTime=="11/11/18(Sun)06:50:43")

put a sticker over it"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1495422 && dateTime=="11/11/18(Sun)09:47:44")

You must have a bad case of the retard my friend
My first bicolor print came out perfect except for a 1mm blob after filament change, using cura color change option on a $200 monoprice mini"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1495508 && dateTime=="11/11/18(Sun)12:30:59")

"Want to get into 3D printing and am currently using a pretty hard budget for basics to learn and make small things. Thinking about SLA and saw the SparkMaker which sounds good enough and is inexpensive, but what does /3dpg/ know/think about it?";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1495541 && dateTime=="11/11/18(Sun)13:22:34")

"I got a nice cartesian printer but I am looking for a huge delta printer (Z 600mm+) for reasons. Any recommendations?";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1495544 && dateTime=="11/11/18(Sun)13:27:19")

I'd love to hear that thing go. Impressive."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1495569 && dateTime=="11/11/18(Sun)14:13:04")

"Want to get a printer for figure and kit pieces to possibly get into stop-motion animations or at least making scenes or dioramas and whatnot. What would be best for this? Since I'm not looking to specifically make actual full figures filled with details like the anon from last thread I don't think I'd need to get SLA/DLP. I'd be making small things like items and model kit parts.
If recommending a specific printer model I have about up to a $700 budget, possibly $1000 though I'd rather have it on the lower end while keeping quality since pieces will need to fit properly with joints and all that.
And last question is just how far can you scale a normal sized print and keep most if not all of its quality? I've found some nice prints I'd like to use but they're full size to be used by a person when I need them nice and small, around the 1/12 scale."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1495573 && dateTime=="11/11/18(Sun)14:16:33")

>small things like items and model part kits
How small? FDM starts having issues detail at things less than 3cm or so and really starts to suffer if the details are less than 0.5mm unless you do a lot of tinkering in my experience. There are some cheaper SLAs on the market worth looking into for that price."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1495578 && dateTime=="11/11/18(Sun)14:23:13")

Unless you have highly specific needs that require SLA, your first 3D-printer should probably be FDM.

Ever since I started working with a Tractus T3000 I have a seething hatred of delta printers. The only one I have ever seen that worked properly was a Mass Portal, if you have to have a delta I'd considered one of their large models.
Really though, ditch the delta idea and just stick with a very large cartesian printer instead."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1495585 && dateTime=="11/11/18(Sun)14:27:32")

>less than 3cm
Well shit, definitely smaller than that as 1cm for entire size with pegs and holes down to 3mm or less. I'm not specifically certain on all the dimensions since they vary quite a lot. This would be such a piece as an example."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1495588 && dateTime=="11/11/18(Sun)14:33:05")

That's pretty much SLA territory, at least to my knowledge. Things that small get pretty rough unless you post-process them a lot (and lose tolerances in the process)."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1495606 && dateTime=="11/11/18(Sun)14:40:26")

Any particular printer to recommend for that? Never messed with SLA but heard enough of it being a bit of a hazard and messy."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1495651 && dateTime=="11/11/18(Sun)15:54:42")

Cheap SLA printers can only use crappy, weak resin compared to thermoplastics. I would just 3D print it and then drill the hole with a proper drill bit. The peg might be a problem. Just get sandpaper and a caliper I guess"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1495718 && dateTime=="11/11/18(Sun)18:12:04")

Everything I've read says it's mostly junk. Your first printer should be FDM anyway."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1495723 && dateTime=="11/11/18(Sun)18:14:39")

That's printable. I've been printing epic miniatures, you'd be surprised how small you can go.

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1495730 && dateTime=="11/11/18(Sun)18:31:16")

What printer do you use? Looks good on those little points and edges."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1495905 && dateTime=="11/12/18(Mon)02:52:00")

CR-10S, my printing profile is also in that thread."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1495958 && dateTime=="11/12/18(Mon)06:45:23" && image=="IMG_20181112_114319.jpg")

"Does anyone know what is causing this patterns? The bed doesn't wobble btw";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1496010 && dateTime=="11/12/18(Mon)08:55:47")

Oh wow. What does this shoot, nerf darts?
I wish I was smart. I feel like a retard reading this."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1496015 && dateTime=="11/12/18(Mon)09:03:27" && image=="esper_00[1].jpg")

>Oh wow. What does this shoot, nerf darts?
Yes, it nerfs.
Here's a smaller one I'm working on."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1496101 && dateTime=="11/12/18(Mon)11:42:28")

This one might actually be ineresting for me, whats the hardware list?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1496106 && dateTime=="11/12/18(Mon)11:50:44")


Hardware kit for the smaller one will be up for sale at the end of this week."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1496123 && dateTime=="11/12/18(Mon)12:26:57")

jea, talking about the smal one"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1496130 && dateTime=="11/12/18(Mon)12:36:36")

What does the bed temperature curve look like? Some people have that and it's actually the bed temperature oscillating and shrinking/expanding accordingly"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1496243 && dateTime=="11/12/18(Mon)16:06:31" && image=="zcwhhwfaA6-8.png")

">install visualsfm
>try "ripping" a shapeways model by taking screencaps from the 3d display
>360 screencaps coincidentally
>have to convert them all because visualsfm only supports jpg
>try rendering them
>always get tiny ass dots surrounding a point that's not even centered
>no visible model anywhere
What am I doing wrong?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1496246 && dateTime=="11/12/18(Mon)16:12:08")

Are you the guy who wants the transformers?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1496248 && dateTime=="11/12/18(Mon)16:13:22")


if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1496290 && dateTime=="11/12/18(Mon)17:49:26" && image=="la archivo.png")

"Kind of wondering if the screencaps I used were at fault.
All grey on a grey background in small sizes. Maybe it's fucking with the software."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1496318 && dateTime=="11/12/18(Mon)18:43:38")

I suggested that route, im happy you tired anyways.

The plain background should be fine. You might need larger images.
The major problem here for "structure from motion" is that the lights are fixed and they cast shadows in different positions depending how your rotate your object.
Also the lack of texture on the object gives very little information to calculate matching points.

I am not on my home machine but i have a script that grabs images from shapeways at any resolution and from a lot of views. Ill post it, when i get back, around Friday hopefully that will help your case.

Also your problem sparked my interest in structure from motion. And i have started working on my own dumbed down version of visualsfm. Where i can define keypoints on the 2D image and the program calculates the 3D points. It tedious but works.

In the meantime try out the free version of Zephyr 3DF. Its limited to 50 pictures."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1496353 && dateTime=="11/12/18(Mon)19:13:58")

What makes Zephyr better, fren?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1496365 && dateTime=="11/12/18(Mon)19:32:08" && image=="20181113_023100.jpg")


if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1496421 && dateTime=="11/12/18(Mon)21:22:16")

Oh lord, you're actually building it. Let us know how it goes, I guess."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1496464 && dateTime=="11/12/18(Mon)23:27:43")

No better or worse. Just another software to try. Perhaps that can sort your problem out."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1496557 && dateTime=="11/13/18(Tue)05:50:20")

"I've been tuning my Ender 3 to run smooth. Now I finally getting decent prints again, but I notice a lot of stringing.
What factors can I tweak to reduce stringing?

I rand a 70% scaled down Benchy, 30% infill, at 0.1mm layer, 50mm/s, 200 deg PLA with a 60 deg bed. Retraction is something like 8mm at 70 mm/s"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1496576 && dateTime=="11/13/18(Tue)06:58:13")

You sometimes have to dial down the temperature a notch down when you reduce the layer height. Try 195°C. Also the Retraction looks a bit excessive, it can cause to let some molten filament stay right behind the nozzle, try 4mm at 50mm/s. Last thing: maybe look or clean the are on the nozzle, sometimes gunks of black degraded plastic can cause stringing."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1496606 && dateTime=="11/13/18(Tue)08:21:57")

"Should you turn your objects 45º when slicing for a CoreXY/H-Bot? Doing this makes most of the lines be drawn using only one of the two motors motor. The first difference I notice when printing is that it's much quieter than printing the other way.";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1496620 && dateTime=="11/13/18(Tue)09:00:54")

that retraction is way too high, both speedwise and lengthwise
try the combing settings in cura"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1496621 && dateTime=="11/13/18(Tue)09:01:56")

Wouldn't it be better if the lines were done by two motors?
half the job per motor, no?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1496629 && dateTime=="11/13/18(Tue)09:19:25")

I own one and can confirm they are not good printers, especially for beginners.
My buddy did the Kickstarter, got the printer then tried to is it. The resin vat leaked during the first attempt and covered the LCD screen in resin, ruining it. He gave me the printer to dick with. I'm going to machine a new vat from aluminum and wait till the fhd upgrade comes out for it. The print quality is vastly superior and I might actually make it worth the couple hundred bucks invested into it.
If you want a good sla, get a photon. They are on sale right now."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1496637 && dateTime=="11/13/18(Tue)09:44:42" && image=="IMG_20181113_070627[1].jpg")

Still refining it."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1496676 && dateTime=="11/13/18(Tue)11:13:57")

"Creality LCD or Anycubic Photon?";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1496680 && dateTime=="11/13/18(Tue)11:22:05")

>Wouldn't it be better if the lines were done by two motors?
No, because one is working against the other when doing diagonals. One is pulling the carriage torwards Y+, the other one is cancelling it."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1496687 && dateTime=="11/13/18(Tue)11:33:38")

>when doing horizontals

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1496694 && dateTime=="11/13/18(Tue)11:58:13")

They're not working against eachothers but together.
If a line is drawn from 0,0 to 5,5 both x and y have to move +5."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1496699 && dateTime=="11/13/18(Tue)12:15:32")

The move against each other in the Y axis, each motor can only do a diagonal, in order to make an horizontal one needs to make a diagonal up, and the othe rone make the same diagonal down

It's absurd how much more quiet it runs like this"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1496731 && dateTime=="11/13/18(Tue)13:58:16")

Color scheme looks just about right for what Nerf's making these days, nice"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1496743 && dateTime=="11/13/18(Tue)14:35:20" && image=="3dPrintingToday-New-16689EFE-6C59-4B0D-A0EC-60F415F8D94D-6030115217.jpg")

"Anyone here print car parts? Always wanted to see what effect different length intake trumpets had. Apparently some teams aren't just prototype testing but actually racing with printed parts.";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1496749 && dateTime=="11/13/18(Tue)14:48:31" && image=="Intake.jpg")

Been there, done the drawing work for a school project. Even bought some Colorfabb HT filament to print the manifold itself before the project time was up and I had to focus on other uni stuff.

I've got some .stl files for trumpets that I've printed in PLA, they should fit standard Jenvey throttle bodies. Printed in something like colorfabb_HT or Novamid, they'd be an awesome replacement for carbon fibre ones, allowing for rapid iteration on n/a engines. They might even be a bit lighter depending on the designs. I'll see if I can drag up some pictures of the printed parts."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1496752 && dateTime=="11/13/18(Tue)14:56:21")

Wow, I'm jealous. I wonder if I could print parts to assemble an ammo belt for my Vulcan"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1496757 && dateTime=="11/13/18(Tue)15:01:57")

That's awesome. What car were these designed for?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1496763 && dateTime=="11/13/18(Tue)15:11:09")

Only in PLA. Live in a fairly cool climate, and parts printed for the interior ended up sagging and deforming from their own mounting points in about a week in 24C interior daytime temps, whereas a painted exterior cosmetic piece held on by a wedge on the exterior of the car(on a B surface) had stayed firm and held fast for the past 6 months. Nothing performance related at all, all have been quality of life things. Haven't had the luxury of needing more interior pieces as everything became easily replaceable and accessible for me now, negating the need to further design and print."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1496777 && dateTime=="11/13/18(Tue)15:27:20")

Opel Kadett GSi, so for a GM C20XE."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1496809 && dateTime=="11/13/18(Tue)16:16:04")

Also, from 0,0 to 5,5 only one of them needs to move, since it's a 45º line"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1496882 && dateTime=="11/13/18(Tue)18:32:19" && image=="20181114_013114.jpg")


if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1496883 && dateTime=="11/13/18(Tue)18:36:21" && image=="20180704_122402.jpg")

Made an air filter adaptor for a go kart."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1496884 && dateTime=="11/13/18(Tue)18:36:29")

"Hey all, I've got a Wanhao i3 Mini clone and wanted to upgrade the fan. I've heard good things about Petfang, but there doesn't seem to be one for my printer. Which of these would likely work best?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1496885 && dateTime=="11/13/18(Tue)18:38:44")

>They are on sale right now
Is there a particular site/store for that? Seeing it in a few different places with about $150 differences, one in particular listed for $435."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1496915 && dateTime=="11/13/18(Tue)19:52:49")

>aluminum vat
I thought the whole point of SLA was the vat is transparent so the projector can shine on the bottom, exposed area?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1496926 && dateTime=="11/13/18(Tue)20:06:52")

Good for a place to get your gear? They recommend and use Paypal so I imagine it wouldn't hurt much trying them."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1496932 && dateTime=="11/13/18(Tue)20:30:07")

"Is it possible to sculpt in Blender with textures on now?";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1496937 && dateTime=="11/13/18(Tue)20:51:47")

I got my ender 3 there & it all went well."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1496946 && dateTime=="11/13/18(Tue)21:19:25")

Do you mean using a textured brush or being able to see the material under the brush while you sculpt? Latter doesn't make much sense to me, seems like it would get distorted really fast unless you made very minor changes"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1496954 && dateTime=="11/13/18(Tue)21:35:54")

"How often do you anons actually print? As much as I am looking forward to getting my own printer, I realized I might not make enough to warrant actually buying it. How much does it typically cost for ordering a printing service to print your parts, assuming they don't require a large sized printer?";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1496955 && dateTime=="11/13/18(Tue)21:42:10")

I print something every week or so, sometimes more often if I'm prototyping or testing out a new design. I've gone at most a month or two without printing anything at all, and that's just because I was busy with other stuff but wishing I had time to print.

>How much does it typically cost for ordering a printing service to print your parts
I'm only familiar with Shapeways but they've taken a severe dive in customer satisfaction since their new CEO arrived (costs keep increasing, quality isn't getting better, shipping time is getting longer). There's no "typical cost" for most companies in general unless you know what material and size you need ahead of time, but be prepared for anything over 2-3 inches costing $40+ per print delivered to your mailbox (and that's being optimistic)."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1496958 && dateTime=="11/13/18(Tue)21:51:02")

No, just having the textures visible while I'm modifying the sculpts so they can work as a reference."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1496962 && dateTime=="11/13/18(Tue)21:53:19")

Fuck, that much? I have been drafting a blimp my dad sketched and was going to 3d print a model for him, but at a reasonable scale it sounds like I should just buy a printer."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1496990 && dateTime=="11/13/18(Tue)23:45:43")

I print almost every day. If it's not something useful I just print things that look interesting or difficult to try different settings.

Shapeways and other printing services are stupid expensive. You can get a decent quality FDM printer for under $400 easily which can make itself back in a jiffy."

if(Cont. && title=="" && postNumber==1496992 && dateTime=="11/13/18(Tue)23:54:59")

Maybe next year. For Christmas we are getting my dad a big new toolbox and cleaning up the garage... and hopefully make room for a cnc mill.

Then I imagine making a casting plate for it."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1496993 && dateTime=="11/13/18(Tue)23:57:34")

The only other real option would be to use 3Dhubs or some similar service, which is pretty much just a middleman for finding some other person with a 3D printer and some spare time to print your part. Unlike with professional companies, there's not really any dedicated QC and it's subject to the settings and tolerances of that specific person's printer.

You might be able to get cheap/free prints at libraries and universities, I've heard a lot of places have started doing stuff like that as a "tech initiative" or something."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1496995 && dateTime=="11/13/18(Tue)23:59:35")

If you were in Australia I'd offer to have a look at the parts and print it if reasonable for far less than Shapeways charges. Shipping overseas would be ridiculous though."

if(Cont. && title=="" && postNumber==1497007 && dateTime=="11/14/18(Wed)00:52:00")

Oh that's right. My local library actually does it. I will have to learn how to 3d print though. Luckily my in law works for the library. Normally its pretty janky. They just take what the kids give them and run it and the librarian doesn't really know anything. Now I'm motivated again to finish my model"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1497039 && dateTime=="11/14/18(Wed)03:21:11")

>How often do you anons actually print?
How often do you use a power drill? A 3D printer is a tool anon."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1497046 && dateTime=="11/14/18(Wed)04:07:02")


You've always been able to do that... Just switch the viewport shading to Texture or Material"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1497059 && dateTime=="11/14/18(Wed)05:01:34")


if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1497070 && dateTime=="11/14/18(Wed)06:14:11")

This is for the Duplicator i3, not the i3 mini. Any idea if it would still work?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1497078 && dateTime=="11/14/18(Wed)06:40:31")

Sorry I thought that was your printer, I'll have another look later."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1497099 && dateTime=="11/14/18(Wed)08:00:56" && image=="20181113_211057.jpg")

Well that kinda improved it, I think my extruder was also clogged and I'm planning to tighten down the leveling knobs to bring the springs under more tension and lower the baseline with the z-stop tonight.

But I keep getting these little "stalagmites" when the extruder moves to a different section, which leaves strings too.

Any idea how I can reduce these?
This print was with supposedly clogged extruder btw. At the roof, the layer misaligned and the shit went bananas, but I think the print was a bit wobbly due to height."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1497119 && dateTime=="11/14/18(Wed)08:48:24")

Would this fit?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1497163 && dateTime=="11/14/18(Wed)10:32:10")

that's just from when the extruder does a z-hop
if you're using cura, under certain circumstances you can actually turn off z-hop and just rely on combing which produces amazing results but this does not work in every case, i personally just leave a 1mm z-hop on because i don't really care about those spike thingies and i've had my model knocked over too many times by a travel move that was on the same level as the topmost print surface."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1497213 && dateTime=="11/14/18(Wed)12:56:24")

What darts are those?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1497217 && dateTime=="11/14/18(Wed)13:05:10" && image=="WhatsApp Image 2018-11-13 at 12.11.24.jpg")

">client orders model made for standard oval stones
>does the silicone rubber mold just fine
>wax pattern seems perfect
>realizes the gems are non-standard in more than one way as she's about to do the actual casting

Jesus Christ, I feel bad charging her for another print"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1497220 && dateTime=="11/14/18(Wed)13:07:40" && image=="WhatsApp Image 2018-11-14 at 14.48.32.jpg")

With a gem that has a more standard girdle it looks fine

Options are:
- grind down the gem pavilion to make it fit the model
- alter the model to make it fit the non-standard gems, print another copy of every single one of them
- alter the model to make it fit standard gems, toss the non-standards out"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1497223 && dateTime=="11/14/18(Wed)13:10:58")

>Jesus Christ, I feel bad charging her for another print

why, if it was her error?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1497225 && dateTime=="11/14/18(Wed)13:13:26")

It's called empathy, jew."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1497243 && dateTime=="11/14/18(Wed)13:40:39")

6MILES Men-gun darts cut to half-length. They're hard to find now. Closest match are green Adventure Force refill pack darts"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1497286 && dateTime=="11/14/18(Wed)14:54:13")

Neat. I have so many ideas I can't wait to get my hands on a printer."

if(GAS THE BOOMERS, AGE WAR NOW && title=="" && postNumber==1497294 && dateTime=="11/14/18(Wed)14:59:54")


Looks like banding on the Z axis, this means either the rods are bent, causing too much vibration or there is no space between the stepper motor and the z rods in the Axis Couplers (which should act like springs)"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1497307 && dateTime=="11/14/18(Wed)15:10:43")

I've always wanted to build my own car. Looks like I'll have to settle for a model and a dream.
Anyone design their own cars?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1497327 && dateTime=="11/14/18(Wed)15:30:41" && image=="wheelie.png")

"Suppose I print this wheel, and make a silicone mold out of it. What kind of casting rubber can I use, in order to make useable toy wheels?";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1497330 && dateTime=="11/14/18(Wed)15:37:15")

Get rid of those supports senpai."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1497333 && dateTime=="11/14/18(Wed)15:38:56")

I'll try to convince the customer to have a prototype made in SLA or polyjet, but I'll print one just because"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1497334 && dateTime=="11/14/18(Wed)15:39:42")

If the wheel is symmetric, looks like he needs them - the spokes are inset, so the only thing that would be touching the printbed would be the very edges of the nubs, resulting in a shit surface.

Honestly I'd split it in half and glue them together."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1497336 && dateTime=="11/14/18(Wed)15:43:45")

If there is a center axis to which the spokes attach i believe that thing could be handled with just bridging"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1497337 && dateTime=="11/14/18(Wed)15:44:16")

>Honestly I'd split it in half and glue them together.
190 IQ solution right there"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1497381 && dateTime=="11/14/18(Wed)17:13:39")

"Please help. I'm fucking dumb and still getting stringing problems.

My current settings on my Bowden printer:
Print temp 185
Retraction distance 8
Retraction Speed 45
Print Speed 25
Travel Speed 150

I can't turn temp lower without things not fusing properly. I'm concerned about turning retraction speed or distance up as well since as far as I know these are already pretty high.

What do?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1497388 && dateTime=="11/14/18(Wed)17:22:07")

I tried almost everything but I cant, for the love of god, get one decent print with this filament. Meanwhile the chink shit that came with it printer perfectly out of the box, with a printer that ran like ass.

Is it possible your filament is so shit, you cant print anything with it? Or is it just my incapability? The filament I got right now seems much more rigid/hard than the chink shit"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1497398 && dateTime=="11/14/18(Wed)17:35:28")

It could be off. Filament does expire and being hard/brittle is a sign of that. Try the bend test."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1497401 && dateTime=="11/14/18(Wed)17:37:27")

>Try the bend test.

Que'st que what?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1497406 && dateTime=="11/14/18(Wed)17:45:23")

Get the end of your filament and try to bend it 180 degrees around a finger or something. If it snaps it's probably off.

Mind you, I can't find another reference to this so I might have just made it up or mis-remembered something."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1497408 && dateTime=="11/14/18(Wed)17:50:37")

None of my filaments have ever been this flexible without deforming permanently/whitening even out of the box, I think you're misremembering something"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1497424 && dateTime=="11/14/18(Wed)18:11:10")

Try drying filament. Evaporating water might be pushing filament trough nozzle."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1497432 && dateTime=="11/14/18(Wed)18:32:10" && image=="20181115_002900[1].jpg")

Put in the last cm's of chink shit I had laying around, same fucking settings.

Is the new filament (left) really shit or am I doing something wrong or something?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1497436 && dateTime=="11/14/18(Wed)18:44:37")

"any recommendations on duct upgrades? Was thinking of printing a hero me.";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1497545 && dateTime=="11/14/18(Wed)22:05:53")

"Any reason I shouldn't spray prime my minis when super glue is still drying? I've got a game on tonight and want all of my minis at least primed, nuln-oiled and drybrushed. (Yes I know it's a cancerous painting technique)";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1497546 && dateTime=="11/14/18(Wed)22:06:56")

Fuck. Wrong thread. If it helps this be vaguely related I've 3D printed these minis."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1497560 && dateTime=="11/14/18(Wed)22:40:14")


Looks like it's thinner than the last spool, causing some underextrusion. Maybe bump that up, just a guess."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1497576 && dateTime=="11/14/18(Wed)23:22:09")

paint has solvents that can be similar to the ones in glue. and you never know until it's too late"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1497596 && dateTime=="11/15/18(Thu)00:28:16")

It's always nice to see someone from /wip/ here.

I don't think there's anything wrong with it, particularly if you use something like the 2X Rustoleum or something similar. I've spray-primed some stuff still drying and it's been fine afterwards."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1497762 && dateTime=="11/15/18(Thu)11:19:42")

"What videos/YouTube channels does /3DPG/ watch or think is a good resource for someone just starting out?";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1497766 && dateTime=="11/15/18(Thu)11:42:37")

tomb of 3d printer horrors has the best ender 3 guide ever"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1497779 && dateTime=="11/15/18(Thu)12:20:21")

"Are these guys for real? 230C for PLA?";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1497780 && dateTime=="11/15/18(Thu)12:21:36" && image=="20181115_191915.jpg")

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1497786 && dateTime=="11/15/18(Thu)12:28:42")

If you want to consistenytly achieve 220C, yes, you need a printer that can do at least 230. If you want to make Innofil PRO1 PLA as strong as possible you should print at 240C, but that's some exceptional stuff."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1497790 && dateTime=="11/15/18(Thu)12:30:12")


if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1497800 && dateTime=="11/15/18(Thu)12:59:53")

>Posting clients designs online
Sure way to end your business in this field."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1497803 && dateTime=="11/15/18(Thu)13:06:09")

anon you can't see anything from those pictures
it would be a completely different thing if he posted the stl files"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1497942 && dateTime=="11/15/18(Thu)16:02:38")

"Is the new e3d cyclops+ worth it? I'm looking for a dual material hotend to print HIPS with ABS as the breakaway support.";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1497995 && dateTime=="11/15/18(Thu)17:44:43")

"I work for a small SLS manufacturer, ask me questions";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1497997 && dateTime=="11/15/18(Thu)17:47:56" && image=="IMG_20181115_224030.jpg")

"New Ender-3 and getting some inconsistent extrusion, not seen this before on my other printer with same settings. Any ideas?

0.4mm nozzle
0.3mm layer height
220°C temp"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1497999 && dateTime=="11/15/18(Thu)17:53:08")

Is your other printer direct drive?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1498000 && dateTime=="11/15/18(Thu)17:54:10")

not really all that interested in SLS tbqh"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1498033 && dateTime=="11/15/18(Thu)18:48:43")


if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1498035 && dateTime=="11/15/18(Thu)18:52:38")

Are you planning on making the plans available for the 3d printed parts?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1498155 && dateTime=="11/15/18(Thu)23:50:52")

I've heard of a few causes for this problem, but for me the jury is out.
-slipping of the bowden fitting connector at the hot end
-gear slipping at the extruder
-random inconsistent diameter of the filament itself

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1498210 && dateTime=="11/16/18(Fri)02:41:47" && image=="bofors.jpg")

"because why not";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1498231 && dateTime=="11/16/18(Fri)04:55:05")

Did you replace the stock bowden fittings (you should)?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1498248 && dateTime=="11/16/18(Fri)06:12:29")

are your machines metal capable?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1498291 && dateTime=="11/16/18(Fri)08:05:29" && image=="ehk1[1].gif")

>Are you planning on making the plans available for the 3d printed parts?
Yes. I'll put them up on thingiverse next week.

Here's the hardware kit."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1498309 && dateTime=="11/16/18(Fri)08:39:32")

Just got my new ender 3 yesterday prints have been pretty good.Been using pla+ and cura on the stock settings so far with no dramas"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1498322 && dateTime=="11/16/18(Fri)09:23:32")

Not that guy but would this thing solve the problem instead of getting brand new fittings?

(getting my ender3 in the mail soon)"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1498333 && dateTime=="11/16/18(Fri)09:43:01" && image=="IMG_20181116_152740.jpg")

"Trying out the new gyroid infill in cura 3.6, really looks like a sponge. Strong as fuck at just 20%. I like it.";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1498336 && dateTime=="11/16/18(Fri)09:54:16")

nothing too special tbqh"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1498413 && dateTime=="11/16/18(Fri)12:02:38")

Why the fuck are you replying then tbqh"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1498415 && dateTime=="11/16/18(Fri)12:04:47")

New fittings are like pocket change. Why even ask the question? It's like stressing over a badly clogged nozzle; just buy the fittings. It's a known fix."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1498417 && dateTime=="11/16/18(Fri)12:11:10" && image=="1470715759577.gif")

"I just started looking into 3D printing and it's a bit overwhelming desu. How did you all begin?

And what are some good beginner prints to get you familiar with how the machine operates, its capabilities and basic troubleshooting etc?

Perhaps there is a learners "course" for lack of a better word that is out there.

Looks neat."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1498423 && dateTime=="11/16/18(Fri)12:21:50")

>how did you all begin
Back in 2012 when kits were few and experience was rare. I got the Printrbot LC since it was affordable at the time, then moved onto the Prusa when I thought it was time for an upgrade.

>beginner prints
A lot of the benchmarking prints on Thingiverse work well enough, like the thin wall or bridging ones. It can be a lot of trial and error but shouldn't be too difficult."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1498426 && dateTime=="11/16/18(Fri)12:28:49")

just putting it out there tbqh"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1498427 && dateTime=="11/16/18(Fri)12:30:17" && image=="1517867203775.jpg")

>How did you all begin?
lol just bought a Tronxy X1 and went from there
pic rel, one of my first prints with it"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1498429 && dateTime=="11/16/18(Fri)12:38:02")


I read the RepRap wiki a lot but that was back in 2013 and is probably considered oldfaggy and irrelevant nowadays. Once i settled on a design i liked (they are all open-source) i bought as much of the parts i could locally and ordered what i couldn't find online. The guys at the #reprap IRC channel on freenode were often helpful when i had questions. I learned a lot, but it took more than a year to get all the parts gathered, built and running into a (sort of) working machine. I wouldn't recommend this way of doing it, it's the 3d printer equivalent of "install gentoo".

The original Prusa i3 MK3 (not any of the billion chinese ones) is on the expensive side, but considered the most polished and beginner-friendly printer. It holds your hand through many things like having most of the parameters pre-configured and set up as software presets. You never need to muck around with compiling firmware, doing PID autotunes, extruder calibrations or anything like that.

From there as a baseline, generally the cheaper and chinkier you get, the more potential problem-solving you're going to be running into, and the more good quality components you may end up buying to replace the shitty ones. There are exceptions to this but consider it a rule of thumb."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1498434 && dateTime=="11/16/18(Fri)12:48:29")

Correct, but the bottom of the vats have an FEP film. The vat walls can be made with just about anything. There's plenty of printable replacement vats on thingiverse. I like aluminum because it looks nice and I can true up the bottom and use a thin gasket for leak protection."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1498447 && dateTime=="11/16/18(Fri)13:23:59")

>Prusa i3 MK3
I've heard good things about this model but it was awhile ago. Does it still apply?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1498457 && dateTime=="11/16/18(Fri)13:41:20")


Yeah, 3d printers don't advance that fast. The core technology hasn't changed much and the basic features are the same across all hobby FDM printers. What differentiates them is the build quality and comfort features. The very first i3 design is from 2012 and it has received many incremental improvements since that version, like a sturdier frame, sensors for automated bed calibration, better hotend, recovery after sudden power loss etc.

There are better deals out there like the chinese Creality Ender 3, but the original Prusas are the most sure-fire recommendation because the company emphasises on "out of the box beginner experience" so much."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1498463 && dateTime=="11/16/18(Fri)13:49:54")

This, the guy who runs the company (Josef Prusa) is the one who created the design everybody copies in the first place, and he has a vested interest in continuing to improve his own product. They've recently branched out into SLA printing as well though those are still on pre-orders. I've got zero complaints about my MK1 i3 so far after 4/5(?) years."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1498466 && dateTime=="11/16/18(Fri)13:54:31")

The Prusa printers are a bit outdated in that they use that linear rod based kinematics system.
They ought to update it to use standard 20x20 extrusions and rollers as the kinematics system which also doubles as a frame meaning less printed parts and no odd parts like the Prusa frame.
Completely standard parts you can order for next to nothing straight from China and a few small printed parts."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1498474 && dateTime=="11/16/18(Fri)14:13:40")


There's nothing wrong with linear rods and they're definitely not "outdated technology". The main reason the chinks recently switched to using V-slot extrusions is because they shave off manufacturing costs by performing doing double-duty as both the frame and a linear rail. Extrusions also aren't the straightest things in the world, and while rods can get bent in shipping there are manufacturers like Igus that produce chemically hardened rods with very good (h6) tolerances specifically for CNC applications."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1498480 && dateTime=="11/16/18(Fri)14:19:27")

So doing more for less.
Yeah sure old stuff works but that doesn't make it any less outdated if there's new stuff that can do the same and more for a cheaper price."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1498487 && dateTime=="11/16/18(Fri)14:43:49")

Other printer is a bowden setup too. I think maybe it's the tube and couplings, ordered replacements but printer arrived before them.

I'll try print that solution in the meantime and report back!"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1498515 && dateTime=="11/16/18(Fri)15:42:40")

"Just bought some ASA, just so i have some.
What is it good for?
How should i print it?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1498521 && dateTime=="11/16/18(Fri)15:52:56")

>Prusa is the one who created the design everybody copies.
Thats wrong and XZ-Head Y-Bed is a shitty setup anyways."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1498522 && dateTime=="11/16/18(Fri)15:53:22")

>buys ASA for no reason
>doesn't know how to print it

It should be the same as ABS"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1498523 && dateTime=="11/16/18(Fri)15:54:56")

I could look it up and figure it out, i was just interested in your opinions."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1498526 && dateTime=="11/16/18(Fri)15:57:35" && image=="print (2).jpg")

>but that's wrong
You serious? Most of the popular printers look like that even if they try to disguise it, pic related
>shitty setup
So what do you propose instead? If it was so shitty, I'd think that the most common kind would be something else by now after so many years."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1498576 && dateTime=="11/16/18(Fri)17:22:15")

"Are there any great advantages to having a printer where the Z-Axis is handled by the print bed going up and down rather than forward and back? Been eyeballing that new Ender 5, but I don't know if it's any better than the 3.";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1498579 && dateTime=="11/16/18(Fri)17:30:24" && image=="asdasd.jpg")

"How do I get better at FreeCAD?
Or might it even be worth learning OpenSCAD?

PS: I want to build a robot"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1498583 && dateTime=="11/16/18(Fri)17:42:21" && image=="rms7.png")


if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1498586 && dateTime=="11/16/18(Fri)17:46:46")

I talked about it with a colleague from work (who does robot stuff as a freelancer). He said that fusion 360 is actually the only real way to go, but I don't really want that desu (because i would have to setup a windows vm/partition)
/g/ infected me with the freedom thing, but that's fine."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1498592 && dateTime=="11/16/18(Fri)18:00:43")

Why not use Fusion 360?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1498594 && dateTime=="11/16/18(Fri)18:01:44")

I'm blind. I can recommend Fusion as well, though, easy to use."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1498595 && dateTime=="11/16/18(Fri)18:01:56")

Because I want to stay as free as possible."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1498631 && dateTime=="11/16/18(Fri)19:03:16")

>there are manufacturers like Igus that produce chemically hardened rods
I bought Igus aluminum rods once. They were 400mm and came bent right from Germany. The chinese linear rods are so much better for the price."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1498632 && dateTime=="11/16/18(Fri)19:04:31" && image=="20181117_020332.jpg")

"Keeping it simple lads.";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1498705 && dateTime=="11/16/18(Fri)22:19:02" && image=="daburu.jpg")

Are you ready to post that script, fren?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1498730 && dateTime=="11/16/18(Fri)23:12:53")

Except it can't. Aluminum extrusions aren't suitable for anything other than hobby machines. Like the name suggests they're extrusions, not exactly a good form of manufacturing precise parts unless milled after"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1498810 && dateTime=="11/17/18(Sat)03:36:51")

>he actually built the wobble machine
absolute madlad"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1498811 && dateTime=="11/17/18(Sat)03:38:25")

but a filament printer isn't a capable of making precise parts too"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1498815 && dateTime=="11/17/18(Sat)04:07:26" && image=="Sells Mendel.png")

Point A you are full of shit. The sells Mendel predates Prusa so he didn't come up with XZ-Head Y-Bed.

Pont B XZ-Head Y-Bed is comon because it's simple and cheap, not because it offers best performance. You don't wanna move the bed on any axis exept Z since its heavy and often on springs.

>So what do you propose instead?
XY-Head Z-Bed. That saild I have a XZ-Head Y-Bed machine myself but I can see its shortcommings compared to XY-Head Z-Bed printers, that achieve higher print qualities at faster speeds."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1498816 && dateTime=="11/17/18(Sat)04:09:41" && image=="20181117_220606.jpg")

">overhang is disgusting
cooling is not an option, it's abs
if i lower the extruder temp i get really shit layer adhesion and it starts cracking even in an enclosure
what do i try next"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1498819 && dateTime=="11/17/18(Sat)04:26:08")

if it's ABS, you can try brushing a very small amount of acetone or ABS juice on the rough parts to smooth it out"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1498823 && dateTime=="11/17/18(Sat)04:30:20")

yeah, i print in abs cos i do acetone vapor smoothing, im pretty sure this is a bit rough even for acetone
might try some slicer settings, possibly increase speed for overhang or something"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1498826 && dateTime=="11/17/18(Sat)04:38:55")

"I would like to add a bed thermistor to my printer.
Can i use any thermistor? I have a 100k one"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1498828 && dateTime=="11/17/18(Sat)04:44:20" && image=="device1.jpg")


That's unfortunate, but why did you need to buy very long sections of the softest type of rods they sell? Even if they weren't bent from the factory you'd bend them after mounting a direct drive extruder on.


Moving bed kinematics look like a bad idea but they work well enough. Some kinematics are better than others, but print quality issues can usually be addressed with just printing slower so it's not as big of a deal as it seems.

On XY-head printers you're usually limited to using bowden systems. You'd be surprised at how much weight the rods/rails and gantry can add up depending on the execution - i've seen CoreXY setups like this pic here where the gantry is heavy enough on one axis that might as well be the same as an aluminium bed."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1498833 && dateTime=="11/17/18(Sat)04:59:07")

printing slower is what I'm doing and its working for me. I print smal stuff most of the time so I'm speedlocked by cooling anyways. But in general printing slower just feels like a non solution when you see others doing better and faster.
A thing I've noticed is that vibrations on the head axis don't manifest as badly as vibrations on the Bed axis. Especialy at higher prints where the Object acts as cantilever. So the same weight on a moving bed affects the print more than on the printhead"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1498835 && dateTime=="11/17/18(Sat)05:13:41")

">Sale for printer ends
>Refresh page
>It's going again
What the fug, that feels suspicious."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1498841 && dateTime=="11/17/18(Sat)05:23:26")

is this gearbest? their 'sales' are a hoax"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1498844 && dateTime=="11/17/18(Sat)05:29:14")

No, is that 3Dprintersonlinestore. Saw that the Anycubic Photon was on sale for $435 from $600 but it's back up after ending last night."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1498845 && dateTime=="11/17/18(Sat)05:30:35")

who knows then, maybe they are just trying to clear old stock"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1498859 && dateTime=="11/17/18(Sat)06:13:16")


That's roughly the normal price that's "on sale" everywhere, i haven't seen it listed anywhere as 600$. Banggood has it for 490$ right now, Aliexpress has it at 430$:"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1498897 && dateTime=="11/17/18(Sat)09:18:41")

>Even if they weren't bent from the factory you'd bend them after mounting a direct drive extruder on.
Who the hell said I was going to do that?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1498947 && dateTime=="11/17/18(Sat)12:25:57")

>sells mendel predates Prusa
...right, but it's not really a popular design anymore, and it's not nearly as widespread as the i3 design is for the past few years. I'm not saying he came up with XZ-head Y-bed, but the current design he uses is probably the single most popular style of printer on the market today."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1498964 && dateTime=="11/17/18(Sat)13:40:48")

">that feel when you are printing a mount for a thing and it keeps coming up several mm too short o long in places so you keep fixing it and it always doesn't fit somehwere and now you are printing the 5th revision and are really starting to be pissed off";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1498965 && dateTime=="11/17/18(Sat)13:50:42" && image=="CF.jpg")

That's part of the design process though, and you should put fixing and improving a design in your design process.
>Start working at 16PM, halfass it
>Put it in the print at 17PM, go home
>Come back the morning after
>Design sucks, revise
>Reprint at 10AM
>Move on to different project
>Print done at 16PM
>Revise design
>Reprint at 17PM
Repeat untill part is perfect. Don't waste an entire workday on making the design perfect, make it rough and revise when you have it in your hands.

Pic related, 10 iterations for a chamber flag design."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1498966 && dateTime=="11/17/18(Sat)13:52:47" && image=="Confused skeleton.png")

Anon, 24 hour time doesn't work like that. Or, at least, not outside of wherever you are."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1498967 && dateTime=="11/17/18(Sat)13:56:09")

I tried AM/PM for once, but I'm used to a 24hr clock.
>Somewhere through the day: get idea/task to print X
>1600: start designing
>1700: start print, go home
>0900: come back, evaluate, fit, redesign
>1000: reprint, go be productive somewhere else
>1600: print done, evaluate, fit, redesign
>1700: Reprint
>Repeat untill good enough
Emphasis on good enough - perfectionism is the enemy of productivity in a lot of cases."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1498968 && dateTime=="11/17/18(Sat)13:58:04")

You ever get that mass-production issue solved?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1498970 && dateTime=="11/17/18(Sat)14:02:08")

Yeah, customer dialed down the order from 1000 to 600 with an option to more eventually, that means it's 3D-printing in a custom batch of TPU98 or silicone molding. I prefer 3D-printing, it's cheaper than the other possible suppliers, so we're going with that."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1498983 && dateTime=="11/17/18(Sat)14:15:35")

I still think you could have made that thing flat."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1498991 && dateTime=="11/17/18(Sat)14:22:56" && image=="Knipsel.jpg")

Like this? Wouldn't fit."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1499011 && dateTime=="11/17/18(Sat)14:40:29")

Make that cylinder part flat and print it on its side."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1499015 && dateTime=="11/17/18(Sat)14:52:52" && image=="Blokkendoos.png")

>Make a round part, designed to go in a round chamber, flat
I take it you never had one of pic related as a child?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1499022 && dateTime=="11/17/18(Sat)15:05:01")

A rectangle with the same height as the cylinder a width a mm less than the cylinders diameter and a thickness 1 to 2 millimeters will go into the chamber just as well as a cylinder while being flat and therefore extremely easy and quick to print."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1499025 && dateTime=="11/17/18(Sat)15:07:44")

But then the chamber isn't sealed. You don't want airflow through your barrel between rounds of shooting, especially in a sub-MOA category like this, so any chamber plug needs to seal the chamber as well as the rifle bolt would."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1499027 && dateTime=="11/17/18(Sat)15:13:12")

Oh well alright then.
What's the mechanism by which airflow affects accuracy? Thermal expansion?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1499032 && dateTime=="11/17/18(Sat)15:20:31" && image=="shapewaysSFM.png")

Yup, totally forgot about it.

Here is the script:
If you have Anaconda it should work right away.
With only Python installed you will need to install numpy, in the os console: pip install numpy
I only thested it on python 2.7

In the script you need to change variables on lines 9,10,11:
"product" to the url you want to get
"job" is an text you get from following the pic related guide
"imageCount" is the amount of pic to get

You dont necessarily need to change lines 13,14:
"outdir" is where the images are saved
"h,w" is the image size to get, maybe 1600 is too much

The script will get "imageCount" amount of images around the object."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1499033 && dateTime=="11/17/18(Sat)15:20:51" && image=="buks 1.jpg")

We shoot a few warming up shots (also to get rid of any excess storage oil/cleaning agents in the barrel), then zero the rifles to roughly 1mm at 20 meters (about 1/4 to 1/3 MOA).
These things have long barrels that aren't freefloated, so in theory they could warp the barrel during a heat cycle. However, the main difference between a hot and a cold chamber is the muzzle velocity, on a hot chamber you should be doing 210-220 m/s and cold chambers tend to start at 180. Less muzzle velocity means a more bullet drop, and every bit of accuracy is critical when you need your rifle to be this accurate.

A large part of it is between the shooter's ears though."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1499039 && dateTime=="11/17/18(Sat)15:44:29")

Ah so it's about temperature i see.
Would it be permissible to wrap your barrel and chamber in some fiber thermal insulation?
Also what's up with that non freefloated part? Just changing the place of your bipod will change your POI"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1499043 && dateTime=="11/17/18(Sat)15:50:39" && image=="140907-33 (640x427).jpg")

>Would it be permissible to wrap your barrel and chamber in some fiber thermal insulation?
This is a big meaty barrel we're talking about, the outside doesn't even got hot when the chamber is up to temperature. Entire rifle weighs 18-22kg depending on which gunsmith made it.

>Also what's up with that non freefloated part?
This is a local shooting competition that's been around for at least 100 years here, and these rifles have evolved to the point where they can shoot a millimeter deep half moon out of a 5mm thick wooden peg without breaking the peg. They do this without freefloating, without any fancy optics, without short barrels, without aluminium frames. This is fuddery at the highest level, which has it's charms. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

>Just changing the place of your bipod will change your POI
We don't use bipods when shooting (pic related), but the place where it's supported should indeed change the POI. Huh, never thought of that, that's another thing to improve. I guess the barrel is just so rock solid that they don't even budge."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1499058 && dateTime=="11/17/18(Sat)16:23:58")

What i'm wondering is if i could just waltz in with my wonder-rifle, with all the bells and whistles, a freefloated barrel, thermally insulated barrel etc.
Heck you could even make an electrical system with a heating element and thermistor to maintain the chamber temperature at a very precice point, just lob a lipo battery and a rasberry pi in the stock.
Or would all that be against the rules?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1499088 && dateTime=="11/17/18(Sat)17:22:25")


if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1499096 && dateTime=="11/17/18(Sat)17:33:47")


I'm still rocking a triangular prism Mendelmax 1 and i think it's still a more solid frame design than the i3. But the big selling point of the i3 was always how cheap it was to make, not how sturdy it was..."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1499097 && dateTime=="11/17/18(Sat)17:34:50")

dat name"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1499109 && dateTime=="11/17/18(Sat)17:48:22")

True. But his point was that most designs copy from it and thus it must be good.
See >>1498526
And honestly, most of the printers in his pic look more like >>1499088
than like the I3."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1499118 && dateTime=="11/17/18(Sat)18:10:47")


Yeah... nah, they copy it because of the cheapness. The original "mendel" style printers always had a high part count, whether it's threaded rods or alu-extrusions. Even the Mendelmax ditched that design with version 2, it's the natural solution for a moving bed type printer.

They already started using extrusions on the i3 MK3, i wonder if they'll eventually ditch the sheet metal and go for something way more Ender-esque on the MK4 or 5..."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1499177 && dateTime=="11/17/18(Sat)20:26:30" && image=="46392865_341541716661223_9051758896191897600_o[1].jpg")

Files are up now"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1499186 && dateTime=="11/17/18(Sat)20:42:13")

How'd you cock that thing in the first picture in the thingiverse."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1499222 && dateTime=="11/17/18(Sat)21:23:20")

Awesome! A couple questions, does it shoot as fast as the caliburn spring gun, why is the one in your picture longer than the one on thingiverse, and does it shoot regular nerf darts or only the mini ones in your previous pic"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1499252 && dateTime=="11/17/18(Sat)22:17:29" && image=="esper_01[1].jpg")

>How'd you cock that thing in the first picture in the thingiverse.
Top-slide prime. You're moving the whole plunger tube and ramrod backwards until the plunger hits the catch.
>does it shoot as fast as the caliburn spring gun
Range is from 100fps to 150+fps. I'm still working on evaluating the tied elastic cord length to fps relationship so I'm not sure what the ceiling is yet. Highest numbers recorded were with scratch-built beige foam darts.

This platform doesn't have anywhere near the potential fps ceiling of the Caliburn though because that has twice the plunger stroke/volume and higher available spring loads. This design is an experiment in a reduced size and reduced cost platform."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1499281 && dateTime=="11/17/18(Sat)23:46:28" && image=="esper_darts.jpg")

Nice. How long are the modded darts that it shoots, pic related.

Also, why was the one in the last picture longer than the rest of them.

I'm going to buy a hardware set from you as soon as I can find the time to fix my printer. Thanks for responding to the questions too!"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1499358 && dateTime=="11/18/18(Sun)04:01:31")

">when printing always be sitting at my computer with printer behind my back
>did literally dozens of prints without a single issue
>start new print, decide to go shopping
>come back
>nozzle is wrapped in molten plastic dragging twisted plastic noodles all around the printer
god fucking damn it"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1499399 && dateTime=="11/18/18(Sun)05:31:57")

The radiated heat of your body helped with the initial adhesion."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1499405 && dateTime=="11/18/18(Sun)05:53:07")

>Show up with a gamer gun
Possible according to the rules, but then you'll be limited by the iron sights (Olympic air gun style) and your five team members' shooting capabilities.

>Freefloated barrel
1 gunsmith is doing it right now, he makes about one, maybe two guns per year. I suspect we'll move there eventually.
>Thermally insulated barrel
I've been looking at Dracos/Straightjacket type barrels, they should be perfect for this.
>Electrical heating system
Rules don't say you can't do that. Personally, I feel like chamber temperature isn't the biggest problem: it's the shooter. Consistently hitting a 15*15mm target dead on at 20 meters away with iron sights takes skill and the perfect rifle only enhances that skill. Old rifles used to hold you back once they warmed up and cooled down, the current ones are well above what the shooter can do, the next generation should be focused on making the shooter shoot better. So, lowest possible muzzle energy (less recoil), extremely fast projectile (less time to target), possibly hydraulic recoil absorption, and many more things."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1499435 && dateTime=="11/18/18(Sun)06:55:14")

just add a small see through display to the design which will show a ballistic cruve of the projectile, calculated by a built in laser distance meter so all you have to do is align a dot on the screen with the target and pull the trigger. you could even add a wind sensor so you can offset for that as well with your calculations"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1499495 && dateTime=="11/18/18(Sun)10:17:16")

"I have some gray prusa PLA that has gotten humid on me. Should I bother trying to dry it out - or just scrap it? Probably have a half roll left";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1499515 && dateTime=="11/18/18(Sun)11:17:30")

I think that would again violate the ironside rules"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1499521 && dateTime=="11/18/18(Sun)11:25:06")

>See through display
''All aiming devices may not include (plexi)glass, filters or any optical aids'' - such a display is pretty much illegal.
>Distance meter
Distance is constant.
>Wind sensor
Wind has very little effect on a 220 m/s projectile traveling 20 meters, especially considering the 35 gram weight (very heavy for a bullet)."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1499526 && dateTime=="11/18/18(Sun)11:28:21")

i see, in that case add a small servo which rotates ironsights themselves, so you can aim them directly at the target and the curve will be already accounted for"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1499554 && dateTime=="11/18/18(Sun)12:09:11")

Found the solution, never would've guessed.

The shaft for the extruder stepper motor was smaller than the hole in the drive gear that grips the filament. This caused the gear to be off center creating a kind of cam effect where the extruder was more likely to slip when moved further away from the filament. Put some heat shrink over the shaft for a snug fit, tightened up the tension spring and problem is gone!

Helps to just sit and listen/watch/feel the printer sometimes. Printed a huge flat shape and pushed the temp down and flow up until it started to skip reliably, noticed it had a perfect pattern to the skip whwn the 'cam' was at its lowest pressure on the filament."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1499560 && dateTime=="11/18/18(Sun)12:11:53")

That's not the problem sine they zero their guns before the competetion.
He's talking about the recoil shifting the guns position a bit during firing etc."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1499564 && dateTime=="11/18/18(Sun)12:15:34")

Yeah a freefloated barrel that is mounted on rails so that the barrel only moves backwards until the bullet has left the barrel at which point the recoil is felt seems very doable.
Just screw some liear rails to the stock and clamp the barrel on some sleds lol"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1499569 && dateTime=="11/18/18(Sun)12:17:25")

then just use a tripod, stick it into the ground and use some tight screws to secure the barrel"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1499571 && dateTime=="11/18/18(Sun)12:22:26")

There's probably a reason why nobody showed up with a gun that has just been screwed to a hundred kilo weight."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1499572 && dateTime=="11/18/18(Sun)12:24:41")

another solution would be to load in a blank that only makes a firing sound, and have a buddy hiding with a silenced sniper rifle on a hill behind you making the perfect shot, making it look like it was you"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1499574 && dateTime=="11/18/18(Sun)12:26:17")

1000 IQ thinking here"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1499576 && dateTime=="11/18/18(Sun)12:28:52" && image=="003.jpg")

Iron sights are already sighted in, meaning as long as the barrel temp stays constant, you're on target.

>Just screw some liear rails to the stock and clamp the barrel on some sleds lol
Like pic related?

Yeah, because you have to put the rifle on your shoulder, and 20kg is heavy as is.

Found a minor glitch in your plan."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1499581 && dateTime=="11/18/18(Sun)12:36:24")

Are there any restrictions on bullet weight?
Just turn some perfectly shaped aluminum saucers on the lathe"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1499585 && dateTime=="11/18/18(Sun)12:41:54")

No, only a maximum bore diameter of 19mm (basically, anything 12 gauge goes).

I've already 3D-printed some bullets to try. being 1/10th the weight of lead I should be able to drastically reduce felt recoil without reducing muzzle velocity. Just have to convince the shooting club that I can potentially blow up their gun, you know, different chamber pressure curves and all that."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1499587 && dateTime=="11/18/18(Sun)12:44:54")

>How long are the modded darts that it shoots, pic related.
1-3/8" (35mm). You can buy them at this length or just cut down longer ones using a jig. Half-Length aka Stefan mags can be bought or printed.
>why was the one in the last picture longer than the rest of them.
Optional muzzle brake and foregrip."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1499588 && dateTime=="11/18/18(Sun)12:44:59")

3d printed projectiles aren't gonna be dimensionally perfect but suppose it doesn't hurt to try"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1499590 && dateTime=="11/18/18(Sun)12:46:53")

They're within 0.1mm of the right diameter when printed with a 0.25mm nozzle and 0.05mm layer height, good enough. It's cheaper to develop a working projectile shape this way, than to make injection molds for each iteration."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1499594 && dateTime=="11/18/18(Sun)12:49:56")

Yeah the general shape is usually surprisingly close to spec, i'm talking about little abnormalities like the "seam" left by the layer starting in that place etc."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1499598 && dateTime=="11/18/18(Sun)12:55:06")

Cura allows you to set the Z seam alignment (starting point for each layer) at either the point that allows for the fastest print, at a corner, or at random. The latter makes a Z seam virtually disappear, and it's much less than the seam that's left by casting the bullets in the two piece mold we use now."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1499649 && dateTime=="11/18/18(Sun)13:52:24")

Awesome thanks!"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1499798 && dateTime=="11/18/18(Sun)17:34:53" && image=="20181119_003324.jpg")

"It may suck ass but at least it's direct.";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1499813 && dateTime=="11/18/18(Sun)18:13:00")

"Whats a typical feed rate / acceleration maximum for a CR10 Z axis?

I uploaded marlin to my CR-10 board. When i G0 or G1 in the Z direction more than 100mm, the motor spins up starts to raise the X carriage then the carriage stops but the motor keeps whirring. I think it slips in the shaft coupling."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1499817 && dateTime=="11/18/18(Sun)18:22:14")

Acceleration was set to 50, i dialed back to 10 and it has stopped doing it."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1499850 && dateTime=="11/18/18(Sun)19:50:56")

"I'm close to making a purchase of a cr-10s, but noticed a newer model "Anycubic Chiron". Any reason to not get the Chiron for a first printer? The slightly larger build area and direct drive extruder seem like up grades.";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1499919 && dateTime=="11/18/18(Sun)21:25:44")

"did a 10 hour print with brand new esun magenta petg a couple days ago, came out great. printed at 60mm/s 240c/90c. I tried the same print today and I'm having first layer issues. re-ran the auto calibrate (prusa mk2s), adjusted first layer height etc. Seems like it's not sticking. Is there anything about petg that explains this? Did it get moist in 2 days of being out of the bag? It's colder today, is a couple degrees difference in room temperature enough to cause this?";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1499937 && dateTime=="11/18/18(Sun)22:13:21")

>It's colder today, is a couple degrees difference in room temperature enough to cause this?
PETG cools very very quickly. Most printer setups for printing it do so without the cooling fan.

Clean your build plate with alcohol thoroughly and try to warm up the room the printer is operating in."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1499949 && dateTime=="11/18/18(Sun)23:02:42")


Just inherited a New Matter MOD-t but have no software.

I've seen some of the prints from this device; not absolute shite. Excited to play around with it if I can get it going. How can I make it so?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1499954 && dateTime=="11/18/18(Sun)23:13:50")

>It's colder today, is a couple degrees difference in room temperature enough to cause this?
Yes. Even moreso if you're talking 1 degree Celsius. Even a breeze over your printbed can be enough to cause issues like that if it's chilly enough."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1499964 && dateTime=="11/18/18(Sun)23:25:58")

I should also ask what temperature you keep your room at in the first place, my place is consistently 27C+ but I still occasionally get adherence issues (with PLA and ABS, though)"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1499969 && dateTime=="11/18/18(Sun)23:44:14" && image=="1542211708868.jpg")

"Should I get an Ultimaker if I want to start printing more advanced materials right away without all the fuss?";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1499978 && dateTime=="11/19/18(Mon)00:18:31" && image=="musicbox.jpg")

"Why don't 3d-print the cylinder of music box?

I want to make my own tune so I searched for 3d-printed music box.
All I found was fully printed one with all parts made of plastic(look the image).
The comb made of plastic, it sounds like shit.

So I want to buy an ordinary music box, made of metal, and just replace the cylinder with 3d-printed one.
I'm wondering why no one ever tried this.

Will it be too weak that the pins of cylinder can't bear the constant pressure?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1499979 && dateTime=="11/19/18(Mon)00:20:40")

>I'm wondering why no one ever tried this.
Because within three rotations the metal sound bar will strip the drum clean."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1499981 && dateTime=="11/19/18(Mon)00:21:31")

The plastic one might sound better if you screw it to a sounding board. The music box is always a whole unit"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1499986 && dateTime=="11/19/18(Mon)00:47:42")


if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1499987 && dateTime=="11/19/18(Mon)00:50:07")

print slots in the cylinder and use metal shelf tabs instead. use actual metal for the tone arms"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1500028 && dateTime=="11/19/18(Mon)02:59:49")

You could probably do better with a Prusa, I've had some problems with UM2's printing flexible filaments since they have a bowden instead of direct drive extruder."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1500031 && dateTime=="11/19/18(Mon)03:07:43")

What about polycarbonate specifically? Aren't ultimakers generally better for that since they're enclosed?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1500035 && dateTime=="11/19/18(Mon)03:15:42")

PC should be stiff enough to work in a Bowden setup. However, UM's aren't enclosed by default so you need a seperate kit to make them fully enclosed. I've tried PC on an UM2, it worked kinda well but bed adhesion on the glass plate was bad (could probably solve that with an adhesion sheet) and I didn't have time to go through an entire spool, can't tell you as much as I'd like. An UM2 is a pretty good printer and will work for 99% of all usage cases."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1500045 && dateTime=="11/19/18(Mon)03:50:54")

It looks like most of the enclosures are acrylic, but that has a glass transition temp 35C below what the bed temperature is going to be. Will that be a problem? Also what if I'm concerned about giving off fumes in my apartment?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1500054 && dateTime=="11/19/18(Mon)04:23:52")

"Is support material a meme?";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1500062 && dateTime=="11/19/18(Mon)04:51:31")

"Lmao wtf
Was cutting ptfe tube with an xacto knife and saw a goddamn spark
It was blue in color and very small but still let out an audible zip"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1500063 && dateTime=="11/19/18(Mon)04:52:47")

Basically yeah
I can do like 70° incline just fine, designing your models with that limitation in mind is a piece of cake"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1500064 && dateTime=="11/19/18(Mon)04:55:34")

You wont get the chamber hot enough to melt acrylic lol
And as for fumes, just open a window as you open the enclosure
Also who cares if a printer comes with an enclosure since making one is so damm easy anyway"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1500070 && dateTime=="11/19/18(Mon)05:10:06" && image=="20181119_120744.jpg")

"All that's left is to true up the rails and do the electronics part.";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1500075 && dateTime=="11/19/18(Mon)05:16:53")


Is there is there firmware I can flash to the unit or something to make more mainstream options available to make MOD-t printing viable?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1500077 && dateTime=="11/19/18(Mon)05:20:56")

What hardware does it have?
If it has a propretiary board you might need to get a new one."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1500145 && dateTime=="11/19/18(Mon)09:02:57")

"how do i change pla for petg when petg has much higher nozzle temp which will turn pla into hardened goo?";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1500217 && dateTime=="11/19/18(Mon)12:21:29")

I already put some in my printer. Let's see if it can beat Simplify's full honeycomb in compression testing tomorrow."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1500266 && dateTime=="11/19/18(Mon)13:36:05")

Thank you.
I'll have to learn most of this but it's definitely going to be of help."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1500271 && dateTime=="11/19/18(Mon)13:51:57")

Google atomic method.

Ask away if you get stuck. Im also interested in the results."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1500279 && dateTime=="11/19/18(Mon)14:01:56")

If all else fails:
>heat to hottest temp of both materials
>Remove nozzle
>Shove leftover filament straight through heater element untill it comes out clean
>Apply bunsen burner to nozzle
>Quench in water if necessary
>Reinstall, don't fuck up next time"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1500281 && dateTime=="11/19/18(Mon)14:03:57")

>much higher nozzle temp which will turn pla into hardened goo
I've heated PLA to 250C when swapping to ABS and haven't had issues with printing afterwards"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1500285 && dateTime=="11/19/18(Mon)14:11:17")

i didn't do anything yet i just don't want to fuck it up

can petg be printed at lower temps? i am not sure if i have all metal hotend as my printer is only rated for pla and tpu"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1500294 && dateTime=="11/19/18(Mon)14:30:39")

I suppose it would depend on the filament in question; my hotend's teflon lined, and I've printed Inland's PETG at 220. I'm told that you can go even lower, but it starts to affect clarity & layer adhesion."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1500295 && dateTime=="11/19/18(Mon)14:32:30")

220 should be fine, when i did a test pla print that came with my printer it printed it at 230C"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1500370 && dateTime=="11/19/18(Mon)16:32:26" && image=="15403907309640.jpg")

"A hand mover thingy setup like pic related would be quite an interesting build.";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1500449 && dateTime=="11/19/18(Mon)19:09:17")

"Due to room temperature issues, I'm going to be making an enclosure. I'd like to make it fire proof for peace of mind, what material should I make the walls out of?";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1500452 && dateTime=="11/19/18(Mon)19:11:14")

If you make it properly the fire will not get far due to the lack of oxygen.
Just make an acrylic box you can place over the printer."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1500519 && dateTime=="11/19/18(Mon)20:20:18")

"Anyone: I took a 3D scan of something and converted the point cloud to a mesh. This is a very dirty mesh. Lots of noise/holes etc. Is there any free software out there that will help me close holes, clean the model, and eventually work the data into a cad model?

Scan was done in Polyworks Inspector. Polyworks Modeler is apparently the software that can do what I'm looking for, but my employer doesn't have a license and I'm to poor fo dat. Need something free or affordable."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1500555 && dateTime=="11/19/18(Mon)21:04:54")

Netfabb can fix it and Blender can decimate the model, but I don't think anything will let you convert it into a CAD model due to how they work"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1500593 && dateTime=="11/19/18(Mon)22:10:23")

I don't know much about them, except that the company that made them is no longer in business, and that the online community as a whole seems to care little about them, as I have found little info for it. I was hoping to find some hax or tidbits somewhere, but nothing yet."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1500607 && dateTime=="11/19/18(Mon)22:34:25")

"I'm trying to write some ending gcode sequence for a prusa i3mk2. The end goal is to raise the nozzle to a zheight of 50mm if the end of print is lower than 50mm (so i have some extra room to tweeze ooze and my pinda probe doesn't sit close to the heat bed before probing).

Its a pretty trivial thing but I'm new to gcode. I almost crashed the printer twice now trying out absolute and relative positioning. I just can't figure out the if/then part. If z<50mm, then G1 Z50

Any ideas how I could do this?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1500624 && dateTime=="11/19/18(Mon)23:12:45")

Tear it open and take pictures of the hardware."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1500717 && dateTime=="11/20/18(Tue)04:46:16" && image=="20181120_224149.jpg")

changed extruder from 150 to 140 and exactly the same result
used cura to slice the model and it's much better, not perfect but fixable with acetone

pic relate, top is cura, bottom slic3r."