import 4.code.options;
import 4.code.about;

class Header{

public void title(){

String fullTitle = "/diy/ - Do-It-Yourself";

public void menu();

public void board();

public void goToBottom();

public void refresh(a);

class Thread extends Board{
public void /SQTDDTOT/-Atleastyoutriededition(OP Anonymous){

String fullTitle = "/SQTDDTOT/ - At least you tried edition";
int postNumber = "1528290";
String image = "1546361094237.jpg";
String date = "01/02/19(Wed)06:32:16";
String comment = "Welcome to /SQTDDTOT/, where there are no stupid questions, only stupid anons. At least try to google it.";

public void comments(){
if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1528291 && dateTime=="01/02/19(Wed)06:36:53" && image=="20190102_222319.jpg")

"So does anyone know what the fuck is going on here? I'm trying to paint pic related fan blade with pic related paint but the finish always fucks out on the second coat. I have already stripped this bare and made a second attempt, same result both times. I'd rather not fuck it for a third time.";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1528293 && dateTime=="01/02/19(Wed)06:42:54")


why are you painting it? Isn't there an easier way to throw it out of balance, like snipping a piece out of one blade?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1528294 && dateTime=="01/02/19(Wed)06:43:20")

Do you sand it between coats? Never worked with that stuff but I’ve had similar issues with spray lacquer."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1528299 && dateTime=="01/02/19(Wed)06:51:10")

It's a 60's era desk fan, blades were corroded and the original paint finish was fucked. Has been chemically stripped, hit with fine steel wool to clean the corrosion scale off, cleaned and painted. I have been rotating the assembly at very low RPM under a stationary rattle can to ensure even paint load.

I did not, but the first coat was perfect in terms of finish, and yeah, I haven't seen this happen before either. Got a solid 24 hour cure time between the first and second coat as well. Do you think it might be an adhesion thing? It's going to be a cunt to consistently sand between coats is all. I normally go with rustoleum but couldn't get it in the shade I wanted."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1528339 && dateTime=="01/02/19(Wed)08:49:44" && image=="1546248078363.jpg")

there are a bunch of these nippers styles.
>end nipper

does the name even matter is is a jew ploy to goy people? Is carpenter the all rounder?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1528344 && dateTime=="01/02/19(Wed)08:55:39")

It's largely down to handle length, longer = more leverage and cutting edge strength. You're never going to cut rebar with a short handled pair of nippers designed for nails."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1528356 && dateTime=="01/02/19(Wed)09:02:24")


the carpenter tool is not primarily used for cutting, and has a rounded end to facilitate what it is used for, which is pulling trim nails out of a board while doing minimal damage so that the piece can be re-installed later without having to cut a new one, or having to find the same type of molding.

so, you grab the trim nail and squeeze just enough to hold on without cutting it, then rock the pliers to one side and the rounded tip allows it to gently pull the nail out. this is done after the board has been removed and the nails are sticking out of the far side, and the small head of the trim nail gets pulled through the board."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1528370 && dateTime=="01/02/19(Wed)09:13:59")

paint not compatible with plastic or solvent in plastic
use a plastic primer"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1528372 && dateTime=="01/02/19(Wed)09:17:42")

It's entirely aluminium, hence the need to scrub the corrosion from it with steel wool. It was thoroughly cleaned with white spirits once I had finished stripping and scrubbing."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1528375 && dateTime=="01/02/19(Wed)09:19:54" && image=="le_big_cutting_stick.jpg")

"Bought pic related. The original nut kept unscrewing, so I had to put another one a few minutes ago. How can I prevent this thing from unscrewing all the time?

>inb4 why no peened tang"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1528377 && dateTime=="01/02/19(Wed)09:23:14")

Loctite or a nyloc nut. I'd be going with the latter."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1528386 && dateTime=="01/02/19(Wed)09:34:04")


Or if you never intend to disassemble it you can deform the threads a bit with a punch, chisele, hammer, etc."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1528457 && dateTime=="01/02/19(Wed)11:21:44")

"I'm trying to bypass a coin slot, which is basically a switch. I could bypass it with a simple button, but it would greatly increase the QOL if I could have it send multiple inputs.
What I would like to do, would be something like
>Hold button X
>Loops an output signal every Z seconds, as long as X is pressed
What would be the most sensible way to go about doing this?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1528644 && dateTime=="01/02/19(Wed)15:34:45" && image=="20190102_115657.jpg")

"My wife bought this for me second hand. Can I just put a saw blade in it that's made for wood and use it like a standard table saw?";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1528677 && dateTime=="01/02/19(Wed)16:35:25")

plenty ways to make a clock, astable multivibrator.
the classic is two transistors two capacitors (and four resistors), or you can use a 555 or even with a couple of nand? gates. lots of ways.

but a word to the wise you can probably press that button x times much faster and more accurately than you can set a clock to do it fast enough without running over. it will quickly get boring probably."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1528724 && dateTime=="01/02/19(Wed)18:00:30")

I have painted a ton of metal signs i would recommend putting on the first coat and let it tack up not dry and then apply the second."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1528725 && dateTime=="01/02/19(Wed)18:02:20")

Also use a good primer!!!"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1528734 && dateTime=="01/02/19(Wed)18:12:52")

>but a word to the wise you can probably press that button x times much faster and more accurately than you can set a clock to do it fast enough without running over. it will quickly get boring probably.

It would. Actually it's for a slot machine for my 85 years old grandmother. Her machine is one of the few things she enjoys anymore. She plays it all day, every day. The coin slot is starting to give her issues, and I figured that a bypass button would be much easier for her than to fill and empty the machine manually all the time. There's a timer which doesn't let you put too coins too fast, so I figured I also needed a timer on my end.
A button which would loop would be so much easier for her.
I somehow completely forgot about gates and was thinking of sticking an Arduino in there with a battery pack.
I'll l look into it, thanks Anon."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1528751 && dateTime=="01/02/19(Wed)18:38:55")

>a slot machine
electric slot machine?
does she care about payout/are collection/payout hoppers seperate (will not putting coins in disrupt the experience?)
there must be a better way to bypass than injecting a coin signal. it doesn't have a test mode or something?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1528784 && dateTime=="01/02/19(Wed)19:54:53")

Are you sure man? Putting coins in could be vital for the experience"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1528815 && dateTime=="01/02/19(Wed)21:18:28")

read the instructions on the can. normally you need to do the second coat much sooner than 24 hours later..."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1528829 && dateTime=="01/02/19(Wed)21:52:36")

Check RPMs of saw and RPMs of tool.
If there are in same range - it will work for you, but keep in mind it isn't designed for saw dust"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1528861 && dateTime=="01/02/19(Wed)22:37:12")

">moving from a place that never snows, to one where there is snow on the ground six months out of the year
C-c-can someone explain the benefits of a heated garage, in terms of car and power tool care, to a complete retard? What is a good heating method for a garage that will not ignite saw dust? Should I just forget it an have a workshop in a finished basement?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1528864 && dateTime=="01/02/19(Wed)22:45:46")

It's an arcade kind of slot machine, which gives credits on wins. There's no payout at all.
Of course, putting in coins is part of it, but my grandma is too old for that, she needs her walker to go around the table and empty the coin receiver, and then put them back in, one by one.

There's probably commands to set the credits to X, but I can't find any documentation on the machine."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1528866 && dateTime=="01/02/19(Wed)23:08:30")

Could you just rig a circular chute so the coins end up within arms reach of someone playing?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1528878 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)00:06:47")

Not with the way the cabinet is made. It's a small tabletop arcade machine, it's pretty compact inside.
Of course I could rip the whole thing, put a flat screen instead of the CRT and use a raspie, but that'd be against the spirit of it.

I'll just solder a button on the inside of it for now, leaving the coin slot still operational, while I figure something out. Might try to fix the slot itself while I'm at it."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529207 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)14:43:38")

"I have installed split mini aircon (non-diy)... Without vacuum pump, by releasing some refrigerant to air.
How can I check if it is not leaking and fine?
Cools really good tho, soapy water didn't show anything.
Some tubes are slightly kinked. And most concerning thing is that gas line seems to be cool, slightly less cool than r410A line.

t. That fag who was posting flares."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529208 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)14:44:40")

>r410A line.
I meant liquid line"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529266 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)16:03:41")

>And most concerning thing is that gas line seems to be cool, slightly less cool than r410A line.
The gas line is supposed to be cool.
The liquid line should be hot/very warm."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529279 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)16:24:27")

Gas line is cool, but liquid is cool too. All have some condensation, but no snow. I can't say which tube is cooler tho.
Air from condenser is quite hot.

I'm confused now... Gas line should be cool, and liquid hot/warm?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529297 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)16:39:10")

Btw, in cooling mode.
It is not hot tho, 27 deg c, but 30 deg c in room without A/c."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529312 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)16:53:17")

Evap. air temp is 10-ish C."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529327 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)17:06:18")

Heating work as well."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529364 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)18:03:57")

I just moved into an apartment that has a flea infestation, what works to kill them other than diatomaceous earth, I don't have a lot of time to clean that shit. I've already swept 8 times and mopped twice (all hardwood)"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529375 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)18:17:30")

>my grandma is too old for that, she needs her walker to go around the table and empty the coin receiver
Anon, it's probably that little amount of exercise that's keeping her going. If she never gets up and moves around, her body will vegetate."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529379 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)18:24:05")

nightlights and soapy water dishes
will take a while because of eggs hatching"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529381 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)18:25:14")

Sounds like a good plan, I'll try it out. Thanks."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529392 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)18:30:53")

Flea Bomb"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529395 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)18:31:57")

I use it to rid apartments of fleas.
It works while I'm doing other prep work.>>1529392
>Flea Bomb
good for the store you buy it from - that's about it."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529441 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)19:34:18")

"I park my car on a lot (and thus don't have a power outlet) and sometimes go on long vacations. My car is from '09 so there are some computers, but really I just don't think I want to disconnect the battery and reconnect the battery every time I decide to go somewhere.

I hear I should be installing a battery tender, but the internet is not exactly clear as to which one, and seems to be geared to garagefags who can just plug a trickle charger in and be done with it.

How can I just leave my car (with computers in it) outside in a parking lot for a long period of time without the battery discharging?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529443 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)19:35:20")

"Need to buy a drill. Can't borrow dad's anymore because he gifted me one but it's useless without variable speed. How much do I need to spend on a corded (never more than ten feet from an outlet) drill that won't be used for much more than driving screws into wood?";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529445 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)19:37:55")

>never more than ten feet from an outlet
you can just install a longer and larger 12ga cable on it. remember voltage drop and all that."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529449 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)19:41:01")

>outside in a parking lot for a long period of time without the battery discharging?
small solar panel on the dash plugged into lighter socket
If the solar panel has an LED to show it's working, disconnect it."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529460 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)19:54:25")

If you're ONLY going to use it to drive screws into wood you need an impact driver, not a drill. If you're going to use it for drilling holes as well, you'll need a drill with a lot of torque for screwing screws into wood, and preferably a two or more speed gearbox of metal construction."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529464 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)20:01:57")

"So I guess the capacitors are going out on my aerogarden. I found a video that gives an idea of what to replace but.

>I have no experience soldering anything.
>Don't want to break it.

video about what broke.

capacitors that were linked.

Should I get a soldering kit for retards and is this a good site to get capacitors from?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529467 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)20:03:12" && image=="6530_fot_042__42628.1509134427.jpg")

"why do so man 45 degree pliers have a gap in the middle? i head some say it has a purpose but dont know what that could be";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529474 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)20:10:29")

"How can I use a reed switch to control whether an appliance is on? I can't power the appliance directly through the switch since they're rated for just a few watts.";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529492 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)20:31:19" && image=="17814028_451023918563363_2032485420_n.jpg")

"if I cross threaded a spark plug, and the piston was hitting the electrode, would it be pretty easy to tell? I.E A horrible sound or a misfire?

I'm paranoid because it was kind of difficult to screw in by hand but I didn't force it and it torqued to spec just fine, and the car doesn't misfire. please make me rest easy"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529493 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)20:32:07")

I didn't know I could charge the battery through the cigarette lighter
That's pretty sweet.
So if I really wanted to, I could build a circuit to trickle charge the battery using an external battery pack? Solar sounds like the way to go anyways."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529497 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)20:40:08")

different poster but trickle down battery chargers are a thing. Literally slap a solar panel on your roof and wire it to your battery and you're good to go"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529500 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)20:47:07")

>charge the battery through the cigarette lighter
It has to be a lighter that works with the key off.
Some are always available.
Some are only available when key is on.
Some can be selected to be either via moving a fuse."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529505 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)20:49:08")

>slap a solar panel on your roof
>I park my car on a lot and go on long vacations.
And come back from vacation with no solar panel and a dead battery."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529506 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)20:51:05")

>I could build a circuit to trickle charge the battery using an external battery pack?
so you'd have two dead batteries - put a solar panel on the dash"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529508 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)20:52:42")

That's the main reason I thought of the battery pack--because I could stow it without anyone noticing. Heat may become a problem depending on the chemistry I use though.
looks like I might have to do some kind of mod so that the cigarette lighter is always on."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529509 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)20:58:01")

also if youd had to get only one (straight or 45 bent) which one would you get for car and general diy"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529526 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)21:29:45")

"So my in-laws are landlords but 2 of their three apartments get their heat from one oil tank and furnace. What is the most economical way to separate the two so that the renters can be responsible for their own oil bill? Hopefully a whole new furnace and tank is not required for this, but my knowledge is lacking.";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529528 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)21:35:35")


It really depends how much this thing cost. First thing, you have to get an iron. Preferably one with an adjustable temp, better to buy once cry once. Then, you should get a solder sucker. Desoldering wick sucks a fat one. Then you should practice desoldering stuff. Taking apart old usb phone chargers at the component level, smoke alarms, doorbells, that kind of shit. Once you're proficient at that, then replace the caps on your garden deal. The reason I say to practice quite a bit is that soldering is way easier than desoldering. If you really wanna hone your skills get a circuit board vise, a magnified light source, and put back together the shit you previously took apart and test for function. Rinse and repeat until it's... well, repeatable."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529530 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)21:41:36")


Relax. You're fine."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529532 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)21:50:12")


You can buy nicer thermostats like 150$ that will give you reports of heat time, but converting that to but and charging tenants for it is questionably legal.

You could buy landlord thermostats that have hard coded limits so the tenant cant get heat higher than whatever you pick"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529536 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)21:58:13" && image=="b.jpg")

So...can i cut 1.x mm stainless steel (19 gauge) with some kind of pliers or scissors?
I found tin scissors and i don`t want to buy a steel cutter."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529538 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)21:58:59")


Ok friend."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529541 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)22:02:19")

Metal shears would be fine for something so thin. Well, if you have the forearms of a man."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529549 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)22:31:48")

Maybe more time to dry in between coats, not sure about that paint but I’ve used paints that don’t fully cure for two or three days depending on coat thickness. I’d try sanding it for the hell of it. Let it dry and sand it with 200-400grit. Use compressed air to blow the dust off when you’re done. Make sure it gets to be perfectly smooth to the touch all the way around. Then as uniform a coat as possible on top. Can’t think of much else to do honestly. Wish you the best on it. With laquer and varnish I’ve noticed that meticulously sanding between coats gives you a glass finish to the eye and touch in the end."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529556 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)22:40:32" && image=="26A0504F-9679-436D-8228-F5930A3A493C.jpg")

Gap looks useful for holding solid wire to bend/pull but not entirely sure. For general auto and diy I’d get straight tips, I work on a lot of cars and I maybe use bent tips 5% of the time. Get 2 pairs. One that has a larger blunt tip and one pair that has as thin a tip you can get like in pic (inb4 shill, easiest one to find on google) when you want to hold small things you want a small jaw on them. Very useful with wire harnesses and anything to do with plastic interior/exterior car parts."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529592 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)23:54:04")

"Brainlet here. Are Roadside car repairs a meme? You often see them in movies where some manly dude fixes a car of a stranded Woman etc. I just recently got into cars a bit more and cant think of a failure that can be easily fixed on the side of the Road except for a flat tire or maybe a v belt.";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529595 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)23:57:24")

depends what the problem is. it's not hard to think of what could be fixed with pliers, zip ties, and some kind of tape. I don't think it would be hard to believe that a radiator hose could be cracked or disconnected and you could patch the hole or re connect the hose. Obviously if you break an axle or something you're fucked. A car can run without a spark plug or two, so you could get away with that too. But you'll never see an Arnold looking mother fucker bending your knuckle back into shape.

tl;dr if you got into cars to fix virgin ladies cars its a meme"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529613 && dateTime=="01/04/19(Fri)00:17:31")

Nah not in it to rescue damsels in distress, Just curious what other people have Ran into."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529619 && dateTime=="01/04/19(Fri)00:37:16")

I do anon, my wrists are the problem but i´ll use bracers beneath my gloves
And thanks"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529735 && dateTime=="01/04/19(Fri)07:58:57")

>2 stories inbound.
When I was younger my friend had a junk Jeep that ran and I flew around the woods after school with him all the time trying to kill it before we junked it. I ended hitting a 3-4in dia tree and put a decent hole in the radiator. We must have put 8x the recommended amount of radiator stop leak in it and eventually it did. But I’d fucking never do that in a car for road use.

On the farm had a ‘92 f150, 250k miles on it, leaked oil. Okay check levels before use no biggie. Spaniard fuck used it to haul full hay wagons of wet hay that we lost one cutting. Wet hay bales can weigh more than concrete bags and these did. Blew the oil pan seal open so bad I’d add 3-4qts before each use. Bought some ridiculous like 90 weight oil and put it in and I was back to adding maybe half a quart after using it all day long. Until Spaniard over worked it again and blasted 90 weight through the rest of the seal."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529772 && dateTime=="01/04/19(Fri)10:00:17")

"Moved into my flat around a year ago now. Shortly after moving in my standing lamp blew up as I went to switch it on, I tried changing the bulb and then the fuse, and then tried a different socket but no luck. I just assumed the lamp was old/defective. I bought a new lamp a few months ago from a different retailer and the exact same thing just happened. It was plugged into the same socket as the old one and it's totally dead. Is this a coincidence or should I be concerned, what should I do about this?";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529776 && dateTime=="01/04/19(Fri)10:11:33")

Buy a lamp that costs more than 6 bucks, run a cord to another breaker, or get a lamp kit from walmart and /diy?"

if(Beppukowski && title=="" && postNumber==1529777 && dateTime=="01/04/19(Fri)10:12:00" && image=="4ACC2F4B-AAC0-4149-9530-1E23839C1C1D.jpg")

"I need to man up and get a compressor and I’m thinking about getting a small one this weekend to hold me over til I end up with a 30gal that can run real tools.

At this point, I need one to air up tires and use a blow gun. I can get a 3gal Briggs & Stratton for $55 and it comes with a cheap hose and fittings and an air chuck. But then I saw this Craftsman for $99. 2.6cfm @ 90psi, 150psi, so it might actually be a little useful. But no air hose, so even a cheap hose and fitting kit is ~$20. I’m not really expecting to run tools off of it but the 6gal could probably spin an impact wrench in a pinch.

So $60 for cheap B&S 3gal with hose and fittings, or $130 to get that 6gal running.

What says /diy/?"

if(Beppukowski && title=="" && postNumber==1529779 && dateTime=="01/04/19(Fri)10:13:21" && image=="AC7403B5-2785-4E5B-AA45-5059345E36BF.jpg")

And the cheap one. I kinda want to stay cheap because I would like to upgrade in the future, and at $60 with tax I wouldn’t regret buying this because I could just give it to the gf’s dad when I’m done with it."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529780 && dateTime=="01/04/19(Fri)10:13:57")

Fuck man me to! Its absolute aids to be able to twist pipe in half and bench press a Buick but fuck uo your wrist for a week opening a car door wrong..."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529781 && dateTime=="01/04/19(Fri)10:14:57")

Yup. Because their dads do it or pay for it and they just drop it off until they get a man."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529782 && dateTime=="01/04/19(Fri)10:22:31")


Service trucks are a thing. You can fix anything anywhere with enough parts, tools, and profanity.

My bro is a highly paid diesle mechanic. All he does 70 hours a week is work on equipment for a road crew.

You can start with a 1ton under CDL limits and DO NOT fucking mark it up with advertisements and shit. Or you will be fucked into having to commercial DOT tag and insurance. And if you are going to do that you may as well build or buy a real truck and fix semis also. For damned sure make it a goal if you are near an interstate.

If you are in your 1ton tho and DOT gets suspicious just tell him you and your buddies like to race and it's handy as fuck reguardless. Also fuck hin it aint his business.

If someone snitches fucking deny till you die. Probably should stik to cash only until you go legit."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529787 && dateTime=="01/04/19(Fri)10:24:12")

Nah man. Just do like my buddys landloard. You pick a temp and he sets it then mounts a lockbox over it.

You could always just check the gas meter or put a rack of guages after the main line"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529788 && dateTime=="01/04/19(Fri)10:25:31")


>replace the caps

also them mutherfuckers can store power and explode a very long time after it's unplugged. Like days. Maybe even longer?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529790 && dateTime=="01/04/19(Fri)10:27:07")

Should be fi e unless you didnt gap it to spec first also"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529791 && dateTime=="01/04/19(Fri)10:29:54")

Fuck i hate flees!

Cut a kiddy pool down so it's easier to jump in and fill it with 1 inch of soapy water near lights."

if(Beppukowski && title=="" && postNumber==1529807 && dateTime=="01/04/19(Fri)10:50:45" && image=="C59CBF5A-D8B0-4067-B35B-055DAF6995FA.jpg")

Or there is pic related which looks real good on paper... but I do not like spending >$50 on anything from HF, especially if it has moving parts and a 90 day warranty."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529828 && dateTime=="01/04/19(Fri)11:12:17")

My grandfather runs heat in his workshop in the winter. No idea on how he does it but it's hella more comfy than not running heat. You're not going to damage your tools or your car (which you drive outside) by not running heat, it's just for your own comfort."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529866 && dateTime=="01/04/19(Fri)12:04:42" && image=="p187.gif")

"I understand that in a three phase system with star connections there is no current going through point A to point B (if the loads are balanced) and that the neutral has no voltage in relation to ground.

But what happens in points 1, 2 or 3? There has to be current flowing between R1-R2, R1-R3 or R2-R3 depending on the AC wave, right?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529871 && dateTime=="01/04/19(Fri)12:14:47" && image=="HdUzm.gif")


the three phases combine to zero, so the neutral line can be removed in a balanced wye. and of course, there is current in the wires at 1,2, and 3, it just adds up to zero total.

it might be easier to understand if you look at american split-phase where the only current in the neutral wire is the imbalance, and is zero if the two loads (not shown in pic) are balanced."

if(Beppukowski && title=="" && postNumber==1529891 && dateTime=="01/04/19(Fri)12:52:48")



If you can find a house with a garage that’s heated with central heating like the rest of the house, go for it. But your electric/gas bill will be significantly higher than the neighbor’s who doesn’t have a heated garage.

Just go with a propane heater or space heater. Especially if it’s an attached garage, you will probably be 10F-20F warmer in there than outside even with no heat, plus a hot car pulling into a cool garage will warm it up for a couple hours, so most people will only break out the propane heater on real bitter nights or when they’re painting or some other project that doesn’t like temps <50F."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529933 && dateTime=="01/04/19(Fri)14:36:01")

"Does anybody know how to remove a stipped allen screw? It is too small to drill into and too recessed for me dremel a slot into to screw out. I do not want to buy an extractor set right now, mostly looking for a quick fix; if there is one.";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529936 && dateTime=="01/04/19(Fri)14:41:44")

Get a nylon cap nut so it doesn't look like shit"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529937 && dateTime=="01/04/19(Fri)14:41:59")

>But what happens in points 1, 2 or 3? There has to be current flowing between R1-R2, R1-R3 or R2-R3 depending on the AC wave, right?

yes of course. we can thank kirchoffs laws to explain to us that this is the case, the currents at the node formed by 1,2,3 and 'A' in and out must sum to exactly 0, so in a balanced system where current through 'A' is 0, any current passing through R1 has to go either to R3 or R2, where it goes actually changes of course as the phase changes!"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529964 && dateTime=="01/04/19(Fri)15:08:57")

Hammer a slightly bigger torx bit into it"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530001 && dateTime=="01/04/19(Fri)15:57:11")

I dont have a torx bit thats 1.5mm"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530004 && dateTime=="01/04/19(Fri)16:00:01")

Then you're fucked."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530007 && dateTime=="01/04/19(Fri)16:03:42")


Use a self-tapping screw that has left-handed threads.

Also, could you post a pic, and give us an idea of the size? And, if you can't drill into it most extractors would not work unless you grind the tip down."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530020 && dateTime=="01/04/19(Fri)16:20:58" && image=="61X0jRZM8YL._AC_UL160_SR160,160_[1].jpg")

"I've got one of these doodads hooked up to an attic antenna that has twin-lead coming down into my room. TV reception can be pretty inconsistent, and I'd like to blame the fact that the in-like coax coupler I'm using to plug into the socket on this thing connects too loosely. Is there any way I can make it fit more snugly without ruining anything?";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530062 && dateTime=="01/04/19(Fri)17:02:55")

Since /biz/ is shit, can anyone recommend some side hustles or part time jobs?
I've got a decent 9-5, but my New Year's resolution is to pay off the mortgage and I'm $15K shy ($200/week).
Skills: general carpentry, welding, plumbing, electrical, handyman. Day job is salaried web dev and Durka Durkas seem to have cornered that online market (plus I hate going home and doing this shit).
Kinda in a flyover Mid-South state.
My first instinct was to stock shelves at a big box stores from like 6pm to midnight (assuming there was an opening), but at $12/hr, that'd take 10 months. Fuuuuuuuuuuck."

if(Beppukowski && title=="" && postNumber==1530086 && dateTime=="01/04/19(Fri)17:23:04")

Uber would be better than a part time retail job. And I don’t know how many places are going to pay you $12/hr stocking shelves part time.

Etsy bullshit. Handyman or mobile auto repair if you have a vehicle that can move the stuff. But the latter is always risky to do independently for extra cash because somebody might claim that squeaky door hinge you fixed 6mos ago caused their cat to die in a fire and that cat was worth $300k as far as the court system knows.

People will pay for handmade furniture that isn’t Ikea shit. Make a dining room table or two a month with a nice laquered top and sell em for a grand or two. There are people who still appreciate stuff that isn’t disposable particle board."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530152 && dateTime=="01/04/19(Fri)19:22:21")

Stick a piece of wire between the ring and the collar. Should tighten it up"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530159 && dateTime=="01/04/19(Fri)19:26:08")

Is conductivity between the ring and collar an issue or is it all about the center conductor?

I know the wire wouldn't be an issue either way but just for my information."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530192 && dateTime=="01/04/19(Fri)20:31:04" && image=="images.jpg")

"How the fuck do I mount something like this to a wall? I want the bottom part of the lamp flat up against the wall.";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530197 && dateTime=="01/04/19(Fri)20:38:25")

open up the base and find out where there aren't wires. drill two holes where there aren't wires.
find a wall stud and put 2 screws thru the base into the stud.

or make a wooden mount that neatly fits the lamp, then screw the mount to the wall"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530209 && dateTime=="01/04/19(Fri)20:56:22")

Sweet. Thanks fren!"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530563 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)11:15:49" && image=="1000007872_1.jpg")

"i want to build a garden house and get into woodworking in general. would a Plunge Cut Saw be the best allrounder to get started? seems to have little to no downsides to a normal circular saw and can do plunge cuts etc. not as bulky as a table saw. dont see the point in a mitre saw. thanks in advance";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530613 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)12:33:04")

Try cleaning all the contacts with 90%+ rubbing alcohol and a cotton swab. I found that gently bending the center post a little bit, while still letting it slip into the connection hole helps greatly. Sometimes the hole it goes into is too big for whatever reason.

You're giving me flashbacks to 1980s-1990s."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530816 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)16:56:43" && image=="IMG_20181229_172041.jpg")

For rough, quick work, a plunge/circular saw would be the way to go - it's what I see most on construction sites.

I gravitate towards a mitre saw mostly, then a table saw for everything around the house. Finish carpentry, furniture building, etc. I did some faux shiplap last weekend. Used a table saw to rip and mitre to cut. It would have been hell if I just had a circular saw."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530817 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)16:59:50" && image=="clean_my_shit.jpg")

>Try cleaning all the contacts with 90%+ rubbing alcohol

or you can spray with automotive brake cleaner, which evaporates and leaves no residue, and can be easily obtained in your local auto supply store."

if(Beppocrates && title=="" && postNumber==1530850 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)17:53:52")

Best hand cleaner around.

But it can rape certain types of plastic."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530870 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)18:23:00" && image=="american_girls.jpg")


plastic rape"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530906 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)18:59:12" && image=="Saw.png")

"I got this Craftsman circular saw for cheap at a thrift store. I took it all apart, cleaned and regreased everything. It works great.

However it has two quirks that are making it impossible to use:

1) Has some weird fucking arbor size like 3/8" that I don't know how to find anywhere
2) It's a 7" model, not 7.25 like every other saw blade out there

It's definitely an old model. What the fuck did the saw industry do? Or was this something you could only buy blades for through Sears?
I really want it to work after spending a couple hours getting it in nice working order."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530975 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)19:50:28" && image=="s-l1600[1].jpg")

Looks to be a 315 model. That was the Diehl Mfg Co. They got bought by Ryobi in 1988. You saw is from the mid-'60s.

1) Pretty sure you have measured that incorrectly. 5/8ths and 1/2 were pretty standard back in the day but I've not heard of 3/8th. Picture related. Place not the saw they use as an example.

2) That is indeed a 7 inch saw but it will take a 6 and a half blade if you can't find a 7. They do still make them but you'd probably have to find them online."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531041 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)20:56:51")

thanks anon"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531148 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)00:53:30")

"Ok little time sensitive
I need to do some headphone repair, I need really thin wire.

I'm thinking of getting a multi color spool of wire wrapping wire for this but thought I would ask incase someone knows of something better/more durable then that."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531155 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)01:05:39")

If you are good at carpentry, build some shit and sell it locally if possible, recovered wood and pallet shit seems to be a good place to source material on the cheap and this crap sells for large sums of money.

if you want to go online, you can sell small BiY kits that you make yourself. this way you can get cheap shipping because the parts you send out aren't final size.

bowels and wood pots seem to be things people like and turning them on a lathe isn't difficult.

unless you have certa, plumbing, electrical and welding are non starters for side jobs, though you may be able to find something for carpentry, but many places need union workers for this and a 9-5 would take out the time most people are willing to have large home repair done.

Honestly, if you are willing to switch professions and you aren't too old, moving into carpentry full time will likely net you more then webdav without you being easily replaceable because you aren't required to live in a specific area.
I also recommend if you have the physical body for it, doing some fracking/oil rig jobs. fucking demanding as all hell physically, but 50+$ an hour with bonuses if you complete your contract time, its possible to fully replace your 9-5 for a year and make more money than ever, though you would be likely living on site for the duration of the time."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531158 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)01:09:24")

only problem with this is things like this are usually made to order so its not a matter of build and sell, its a matter of getting orders and the people knowing what you can output.

I would recommend coffee tables/nightstands that look good, and offer kitchen tables made to order, take a down payment that is equal to the material needed, but you will likely need a lathe of some sort or some carving skill for the feel/leg/legs"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531173 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)01:52:32")

I love problem solving. That's what got me into cars. I also like helping people. I've helped literally hundreds of people broken down.(I've been a professional mechanic for 13 years now. ) From tires to belts to alternators batteries locked brakes melted spark plug wire. Hell I've done a timing belt on an old civic. I have a travel toolbox for exactly this. And only 3 times has it resulted in sex so my success rate is abysmal. Do it for the sake of being a good person"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531181 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)02:17:43")

lol this actually happened to me.
I was driving with my buddy to a job and in the middle of nowhere we came across a woman with kid who lost a tire. I found the tire in the ditch, the lug nuts rattled loose and the bolt holes in the wheel were bashed and worn.
Neither of us are mechanics but we jacked her car up, cleaned up some of the extremely damaged stud threads, and put on the spare tire.
No blowjob though, not like we would have accepted, she was old."

if(Anon && title=="" && postNumber==1531183 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)02:23:19" && image=="49343236_10155924833138038_4507408696426364928_n.jpg")

"Hi, I live in Aus and have a pretty standard roof (Corrugated galvabond over a hard wood frame, cathedral ceilings).

I would like to put a very small deck on top of the roof, no more than 4m^2.

I am looking for resources on doing this, it seems not many people ever tackle this? I have a really good view from the roof but can't afford to build a 2nd story and would just like a small platform up there.

Can you point me in the right direction? I'm fully equipped with tools, am pretty handy and am an engineer."

if(Beppocrates && title=="" && postNumber==1531184 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)02:23:28")

If you have a leak from somewhere, there’s plenty of ways to limp it home or to a shop where you can fix it yourself.

Last time I tried to help a lady who was broken down, I was at CVS and see this soccer mom with the entire contents of her mini van’s cooling system on the ground. I asked if she needed help because with how much poured out right there, it may have been a hose clamp that popped or even a busted hose, VatoZone was like 2 blocks away and I had some tools in my car.

She says “No I’m fine, I already talked to my mechanic” and proceeds to pour a single 0.5L bottle of water into the radiator and then starts the car and drives away.

I guarantee she didn’t make it very far."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531259 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)08:08:19")

Yea, that's prolly the best route - I'm just a bit of an introvert and don't like to mess with sales or customer service.
Here's something I did
Ehh. If you ain't first, your last. I've had a few online stores and it's a 'race to the bottom' in terms of ROI.

I wouldn't mind being a trademan's helper on the weekend or at nights, but nights don't seem to practical.
I've thought about trades for awhile, but all the CL ads max out their pay around $25/hr. I hate my job, but it's too cozy to give up. I've automated most of what I do and make $35/hr an prolly do about 5 hours of work a week. I'm hoping to work from home completely in the next few years and basically have a Basic Universal Income."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531267 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)08:29:05")

do online through places like etsy
make a simple stool, and list it, see if you get any takers, the main thing you have to realize about online is its very store dependant.

here take a look at this.

there were several that had some brass/copper inlays around the stick or buttons but I can't find them, meaning they most likely sold for the 500$ range.

Things like this are stupidly simple to make, and can be sold for a high price, you just won't sell it in bulk. doing a few build it yourself chairs/stools, and listing them on etsy or locally would likely sell you just need to know you wont sell it fast."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531282 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)09:07:53")

Wow, I appreciate it. Maybe I should fleece some limp wristed techy millennials :)"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531287 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)09:13:32")

>brake cleaner on greasy hands
My amigo, bep you’re not such a bad guy. Let’s grow old and post on 4chan until the solvent induced Parkinson’s makes it too hard to type."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531293 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)09:34:56")

remember to go to the post office and see what it will cost to ship continental, the alaska and to hawaii, and have that as a shipping rate, possibly 2 rates depending on where you live, cant remember if etsy does this for you or not as I barely use the platform.

generally with any wood working, you are looking at making 5-10 times your bill of materials.

also take a look at dice boots/towers for d&d/tabletop games, another very simple thing you can make but will get some takers almost regardless of quality. make a few oversized versions/versions for large dice and you will corner a niche market. if you know how to leather wrap and work with leather you could also make dice cups

also if you are ok with getting into some amount of sewing, you could also make dice bags. hell, its fun to make chainmail once you know how, and you could make dice bags. each of what I said is amildly saturated market, but a market that will pay out for handmade items, and typically is the persons main/biggest hobby, so they are willing to shell out for niche things."

if(Beppocrates && title=="" && postNumber==1531333 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)11:08:59" && image=="image.jpg")

Thank God I don’t live in California where chlorinated brake cleaner will kill you. Here in Florida, our brake cleaner is totally safe!"

if(Beppocrates && title=="" && postNumber==1531338 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)11:11:53" && image=="image.jpg")

"This is just for women and children so I should remove it, right?";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531347 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)11:33:48" && image=="YOUR_NOT_THE_MOM_OF_ME.jpg")


yeah. just remember pic related"

if(Beppocrates && title=="" && postNumber==1531382 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)12:28:12")

Do you have a higher resolution of that pic so I can print it out and frame it and hang it on my wall?

I have all of the handles taken off right now and it’s getting too much fuel so as soon as I start it the thing goes on runaway mode and is really sketchy.

Also as soon as it started running with some power, bar oil was just dripping from the bottom. Is this normal? How much bar oil is supposed to be coming out? That seemed like too much."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531386 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)12:32:17")

>Do you have a higher resolution of that pic

sorry, nope.

and I'm not a chainsaw guy, just a professional shit poster. why not ask in this chainsaw thread >>1530929"

if(Beppocrates && title=="" && postNumber==1531401 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)12:59:30" && image=="195387E6-F880-4583-B077-491FADCDD47E.jpg")

Ok, then answer me this question:

Where the fuck did these Torx keys come from? A Google search tells me that Tüv is some German testing company and GS is a certification almost like a UL or ASTM stamp.

I got them in some goofy little Cubano tool shop that was full of glorious crap."

if(Beppocrates && title=="" && postNumber==1531405 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)13:02:52" && image=="5ED5EA00-28C5-4610-BB78-45C7A12EF51D.jpg")

They were cheap, but they have a better fit than the HF torx keys for sure."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531407 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)13:04:20")


those are probably illegal for americans to own, so ship them to me and I will dispose of them properly."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531428 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)13:23:06")

Lookup the owner manual for adjusting the carb. Idle just might be too high if you’re lucky. Worse case a $10-$20 new carb should be calibrated, as long as the rest of the engine hasn’t been abused. As for the oil, if I could give you a volume measure I would but I’m not that good. It should put out a decent amount, like a pull from a spray bottle on mist for a quick full rev on the saw. But it should come off the entire length of the bar. If you have it over a concrete floor you’ll see a line of misted oil on the floor. More lube isn’t the worst problem to have unless it’s a ridiculous amount and it’s making your job harder having to fill it. Take the bar off and with a tiny flat head clean the channel where the chain slides in the bar. Additionally, check the chain and make sure the holes under the teeth aren’t plugged. The holes carry the oil through the bar. Draining the oil first, check the oil pick up filter and line it’s connected to for holes. It’s possible you’re getting too much too fast or air might be getting in making it leaky. If that’s not it we’ll go on from there."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531431 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)13:24:08")


if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531436 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)13:28:34" && image=="4AA12250-4490-4732-8010-1BCEA2189553.jpg")

Forgot to mention with the bar, it has holes in the flat side to let oil in the bar from the rest of the saw. Make sure they aren’t plugged, use compressed air, gasket pick or even a paper clip. Check the hole on the saw side where the oil comes out. Clean the two mating surfaces and try it."

if(Beppocrates && title=="" && postNumber==1531464 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)14:18:18")

Kek, you really want a set? I’ll stop by the Cubano place and grab another one for like $6 or whatever they cost.

The shop seemed like they buy lots of closeout tools and parts from other stores and then the rest is Chinesium. Like they had a billion Ace Hardware branded sockets for real cheap. And then they had a handful of higher end tools behind the counter and even those were fairly priced compared to Home Depot or Lowe’s.

I already ordered the new carb. I’m not going to rip the whole thing apart and replace all the lines until I have the new carb.

And the bar oil wasn’t a mist at all, it was dripping like a leaky faucet. There was a ton of gummy oily sawdust all clogged up in there so maybe I need to blow all of that garbage out and see if it makes a difference."

if(Beppocrates && title=="" && postNumber==1531466 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)14:20:51")

I figured as much, but that stamp is goofy and I’m still kinda curious how they made it to little Latin shop in South Florida. I paid less than thay eBay price I think. Whatever, like I said they definitely have a better fit than the HF torx keys."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531487 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)14:48:21")

Best of luck, post results."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531530 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)16:12:29")

>coworker uses brake cleaner to clean everything
>wipes down a part being manufactured
>hands it off to the welder
>welder welds it
>welder fucking dies because the brake cleaner made phosgene gas"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531549 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)16:29:42" && image=="honeywellzonevalve.jpg")

"So I don't know shit about plumbing but I've been having a problem where I'm constantly getting heat from my perimeter heaters when my heat is turned off. I live in a condominium complex with a central boiler system, and I was told that I probably have a zone valve issue and that they're usually easy fixes. So I did a little bit of research on how to repair/replace them but everything is on what to do when you have no heat, not when you have too much.

It's not clear to me if there is anything wrong with the valve because I can hear the motor go on an off and the little lever seems to respond as expected. With that said is it even possible that my problem could be related to the motor? Otherwise how feasible of a inexperienced diy fix would I be looking at?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531565 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)17:00:51" && image=="IMG_20181231_112918.jpg")

"I did something pretty stupid. I'm a Carpenter but dabble in changing brake pads for my truck. Lesson is don't rush";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531568 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)17:02:09" && image=="IMG_20181230_113407.jpg")

But fixed it the next day"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531578 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)17:18:12")

a little advice if you are interested. get a vacuum pump. put the bleed valve under vacuum and crack it open when you compress the piston. a million times easier than trying to brute force it with a c clamp."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531586 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)17:33:06")

i bought this one years ago and it still works."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531588 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)17:39:00" && image=="SAFETY-FIRST-EGO-LAST.gif")

If you actually need to ask then yes YES you need it."

if(Beppocrates && title=="" && postNumber==1531589 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)17:41:27")

This is the same one everybody fucking sells under whatever brand- Pittsburgh, Autocraft, Duralast, etc. That’s a good price for it, Advance Auto has it for $30 or something but you can always get 20%-25% off, and HF sells it for $25 but again you can get 20% off.

They’re kinda shitty. The grey one is better for closer to $40 if you’re going to use it more than once every couple years."

if(Beppocrates && title=="" && postNumber==1531591 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)17:43:53")

Kek, I have the thing all fucked up with no handles or guards on it, starting it with one hand on the cord and the other hand on the engine block. Then it starts with a bunch of fucking starter fluid and runs away as I’m standing there with sandals on.

I still have a dozen toes so we’re all good."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531596 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)17:59:23")

Id like to look into that! My dad told me to use a c clamp with the old brake pad. But for 20 bucks I'd use it"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531598 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)18:01:09")

>I still have a dozen toes so we’re all good.

Where did the other 2 go?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531602 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)18:13:56")

If everything is moving correctly it'll be the seals are fucked, you need to replace the valve part (assuming the valve will come away from the motor in your case). I had the same issue with a three way valve, everything worked, it just wasn't sealing the pipe."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531613 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)18:33:25")

I'm guessing that would require draining the pipe?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531625 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)18:50:49")

"Does anyone sell a 5 drawer roll around toolbox for less than $200 now a days?";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531626 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)18:52:03")

Not necessarily, you can freeze the pipe both sides and then replace the valve in isolation with just a little spillage, assuming it's compression joints not soldered. But you should check the condo's rules first, there might be rule against that for some stupid reason."

if(Beppocrates && title=="" && postNumber==1531628 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)18:54:31" && image=="89E37F11-C841-48E1-9924-81381AC8B9D8.jpg")

It’s a long story

I never had a problem with the C-clamp except for the one time my brake lines were fucked.

Just remember there are some cars with the parking brake integrated into the rear caliper where you have to twist the piston to get it to compress. They sell these goofy universal tools that are a square block with a 3/8” square in the middle for a ratchet and then little pegs with different spacing on each side to fit certain makes of car."

if(Beppocrates && title=="" && postNumber==1531631 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)18:57:59" && image=="image.jpg")

Do you want a cart or a box?

The Harbor Freight toolboxes are actually solid. There’s coupons all the time for the tool carts. They all have the same footprint, like 30” x 18” so pick the drawer configuration that fits you best. The most expensive 5-Drawer is $209 but there are always coupons to snag it for $159 or something. 4-Drawer has a lot less storage space because the drawers are thin, but you can get it for $109 all the time."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531636 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)19:01:27")

Looks like a lot of investment for one repair. I'd probably be better off just hiring someone. Thanks for the info though."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531645 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)19:09:32")

That might not be the only system. In the UK you can get single use freeze kits for about $20, have a look around. I only chose that vid to show you it was a "proper" option not some cowboy quick fix that always goes wrong. But seriously, if you think it's beyond your skill set (no shame in that) always get a professional in that will guarantee their work in case of failure. The last thing you want is a lawsuit from the people who your "repair" has cost them loss and repair bills of their own."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531654 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)19:19:09")

Ha! I was right about the anime, just got the trap bit wrong."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531659 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)19:23:51")


Probably a box since I'm looking to store basic hand tools in a shop setting."

if(Beppocrates && title=="" && postNumber==1531672 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)19:52:25" && image=="B619A37F-BE61-4FFF-BD4E-67D173FAB425.jpg")

Kek, that’s an OG /o/ sticky mang. Before there was a dedicated sticker thread full of a bunch of anime fags. That thread really should get b& because it’s nothing but a marketplace that has barely anything to do with cars. It’s bunch of /a/ kids who stick them on their gayming computers.

I mean you can lock the tool carts, the $209 ($159) HF model has 5 drawers plus the top so you can lock down quite a bit.

Otherwise you’re probably looking at a 26” tool chest bottom for around $200. The top and bottom will be closer to $350 minimum. Don’t fall for any of the “Homeowner Duty” like that Craftsman box with a top and bottom that runs for like $200 because that thing is going to fall apart once you get a few hundred points of tools in there.

Craftsman, Husky, Kobalt, and the US General would probably be the way to go. Pic related is nice because the drawers are 22” deep while most other 26” box bottoms are like 18” and the toops are maybe 12”-14”. Craftsman’s 26” 4-drawer bottom is $175 right now."

if(Beppocrates && title=="" && postNumber==1531673 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)19:53:30" && image=="image.jpg")

if(Beppocrates && title=="" && postNumber==1531688 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)20:48:45" && image=="6D8C77CE-4EF8-42BA-911F-32D95B14D598.jpg")

"Wut did they mean by this?";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531774 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)22:46:26" && image=="2019-01-06 20.42.31 (Medium).jpg")

"This piece of shit "gaming" chair has fallen apart, and I'd like to fix it, since it was stupidly expensive.

I have an old sewing machine, and I think it'll be easy enough to cut the stitching on the old parts and trace the pattern.

My question is what can I do to stop this from happening again? And what kind of material should I use?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531776 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)22:53:50")

Heavy duty cloth like the kind used for vehicle seat covers. You might even buy one and harvest it for what you need. Faux leather is basically plastic and often doesn't hold up."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531783 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)23:08:27")

Hmm, y'know that makes me think I might just put a seat cover over it. I could get one of those heating/cooling ones haha. Thanks for the advice, I'll shop around a bit and see what fabric goes for."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531787 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)23:10:16")

"Does anyone have experience using MDF? I want to buy a couple sheets and use them as like a office chair mat for my desk. I have never touched this stuff before so I have no idea what it will do.";

if(Beppocrates && title=="" && postNumber==1531792 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)23:21:22")

The edges are rough, don’t get it wet."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531793 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)23:24:11")

Does it flex like OSB?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531799 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)23:41:03")

or just wrap new fabric/material over it and tack it underneath. replace this cover as necessary"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531816 && dateTime=="01/07/19(Mon)00:13:58" && image=="49748502_576575326097442_3663279938649194496_n.jpg")

"got a milk crate i want to use for records but the thing is too narrow. whats an easy way to widen it? sanding it?";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531827 && dateTime=="01/07/19(Mon)00:37:09")

You got the wrong size crate. Records are literally wider than that size crate. You have to get the rectangular ones or a really, really old one to fit records in it."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531830 && dateTime=="01/07/19(Mon)00:38:54")

yes i know, how do i widen it?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531831 && dateTime=="01/07/19(Mon)00:44:35")

If you got this at home Depot and it breaks using it this way, it could void the warranty"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531854 && dateTime=="01/07/19(Mon)02:09:02")

The record is wider than the crate. You don't."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531855 && dateTime=="01/07/19(Mon)02:24:42")

Remove one of the sides, put all your records in the use cable ties to tie the side back on."

if(Beppocrates && title=="" && postNumber==1531950 && dateTime=="01/07/19(Mon)08:19:10")

Meh a little bit but I don’t think it is as flexible as OSB. The last time I was working with it, it was 3/4” thick so pretty beefy.

Go to Home Depot and fingerfuck some different boards and see what you like. That’s what I did for my workbench and I ended up doing OSB on the bottom layer because it was cheap and not as brittle as the MDF, and then top layer was the thick MDF because I didn’t want to be getting splinters all day. Plus they’re all inexpensive so I don’t have to worry about accidentally drilling holes into it or burning shit."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531963 && dateTime=="01/07/19(Mon)08:35:44")

Buy 33s instead of 45s"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531986 && dateTime=="01/07/19(Mon)09:07:04")

"Asking here since I think I might get a better answer than /o/. Can an older model airbag crash sensor work for newer model airbags?

For instance would a thirty year old Volvo 240 sensor be at all compatible with the built in curtain airbags of a twenty year old Volvo 850 front seat?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531990 && dateTime=="01/07/19(Mon)09:13:14")


The reason for this to start with is I want to replace my messed up seats in my 240. 850 seats should fit using an adapter bracket, but they are pretty close dimensionally. In regards to power the 850 seats have been successfully installed so that their power adjustments and heat function still worked, but this required some new wiring and fuses I believe."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1532249 && dateTime=="01/07/19(Mon)16:42:31")

"any tips for clogged drains? tried one of those air pressure things, a spiral and vinegar. vinegar seems to be the only thing that helps somewhat, but only for 1 or 2 days. really dont know what to do anymore, is suspect the clogged part is quite far down as it affects both sink and bathtub.";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1532327 && dateTime=="01/07/19(Mon)18:46:20")

I don't think it will hold up very well, especially if you're putting it down on a soft surface like a carpet. Just get the plastic floor protector from Ikea."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1532329 && dateTime=="01/07/19(Mon)18:48:43")

Yeah, I replied to the wrong post."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1532399 && dateTime=="01/07/19(Mon)20:55:39")

>recommends one of the most deadly jobs in the most unethical industry aside from mercenary work"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1532471 && dateTime=="01/07/19(Mon)23:36:53")

"lets say i the ONLY hardfloor surface (vinyl flooring in this case) is a bathroom. i dont fucking feel like setting up a mop and bucket to fucking mop the floor. would just getting a rag and soaking it in a water/vinegar mixture and use my foot to wipe down the floor work just as good?";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1532472 && dateTime=="01/07/19(Mon)23:38:03")

>lets say the ONLY hardfloor surface that i need to clean"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1532489 && dateTime=="01/08/19(Tue)00:24:35")

"I am trying to find a male to male part that will let me hook up a standard shower hose to my faucet. I tested the aerator in a hardware store and found out that the threading is 15/16" male, but I can't find any adapters that seem to have that threading with a shower connector on the other side; I can only find parts that have another faucet threading on the other end. Does what I'm looking for exist? I don't know jackshit about plumbing, so this is all new to me.";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1532505 && dateTime=="01/08/19(Tue)01:33:30" && image=="9000 hours in paint.jpg")

"Do any of you tradies know what any of these symbols mean. I asked /x/ but they called me a retard, I want to know something I don't already know.";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1532530 && dateTime=="01/08/19(Tue)03:20:25")

looks like hydraulic schematic symbols but not really. where'd you see those?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1532534 && dateTime=="01/08/19(Tue)03:38:48")

Written inside a stud for a wall built in '95 with no electrical or plumbing in it, I don't known if it's a 25 year old shitpost or something more retarded, but I've never seen or googled anything like it."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1532535 && dateTime=="01/08/19(Tue)03:39:23")

deadly is highly overstated, the main thing that is a problem is is EXTREMELY physically demanding.

as for ethical/unethical, pass a law to make it illegal, I hate the shit too but i'm not going to fault people who will work there for 50+$ an hour starting. The danger is largely of your own making, and they pay that much because even people in peak physical condition don't stick around for long.

Its more of a short term high payout job, for a long term I would highly recommend going carpentry if you are young or if you are older pipefitting/electrician.

pay is lower for plumber, but you can still make 6 figures without to much of a problem and electrician is typically a 30-50% more money.

I'm recommending shit away from a highly contensted and sought after, easily exported, job."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1532591 && dateTime=="01/08/19(Tue)07:33:11" && image=="Packaging.jpg")

"unusual question here, would it be possible to use the insulation (made from recyled plastic bottles) that comes with those food subscriptions as insulation for a garden shed? my sister orders these quite frequently and i wondered if the could be put to good use";

if(Beppocrates && title=="" && postNumber==1532595 && dateTime=="01/08/19(Tue)07:39:49")

The one on the top left is a hairy baby duck for sure. Middle left is a broken barstool, some fat guy got a little tipsy and knocked it over. Bottom left is one of those frisbee golf nets/holes. Top right is when your kitchen has an east facing window and you’re at the sink in the morning and the sun is glaring off the chrome faucet. Bottom right is a boob."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1532724 && dateTime=="01/08/19(Tue)10:22:28" && image=="How fugged is my dinner machine.jpg")

"Alright guys.
My diner machine died and upon inspection, pic related.
In the UK so Brown = live, Blue/fucking toasted = neutral, And green/yellow = earth (n.b. the earth conect screw is quite loose and the 'colour' comes off when you touch it).

Can I just cut the wire back to fresh and re install? The terminal is a bit melted can i just buy new from ebay and install? Is my dinner machine broken for good?

Also the main house breaker for the cooker did not trip and the function seems normal when the wires do reconect"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1532741 && dateTime=="01/08/19(Tue)10:43:23")


It looks like the one terminal connection went bad, got corroded, or whatever, so that the resistance increased and it got really hot.

So yeah, if nothing else is damaged you can replace everything in that pic that looks fucked and it should be fine. You might give it some thought as to why it went bad; can food or liquids get in there.

and what the fuck is a dinner machine anyway"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1532852 && dateTime=="01/08/19(Tue)15:19:45")

I would replace the entire cord unless I cut back a half a foot and was totally satisfied it was fine.

Your main breaker didn't trip because it's 32A and this wasn't in danger of burning up the wiring in your walls.

The fuse in the cord should have blown probably. Is it oversized?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1532854 && dateTime=="01/08/19(Tue)15:24:24")

>The fuse in the cord should have blown probably. Is it oversized?

if the connector went bad and had high resistance the current would have been lower than normal. fuses protect against over current and nothing else. a device can go up in flames quite easily without drawing excessive current."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1532863 && dateTime=="01/08/19(Tue)15:45:33")

Why the fuck not if its just a shed."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1532914 && dateTime=="01/08/19(Tue)17:04:59" && image=="mercy.jpg")

>what is a space heater
A simple space heater from Walmart will do the trick, that's literally what they are made for. You just set the temp you want it to shut off at, and when the room reaches that temp it shuts off. They're also incredibly safe, I leave mine plugged in 24/7. Keeps the garage nice and warm which is nice, especially in the morning."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1532921 && dateTime=="01/08/19(Tue)17:12:00")

I would get definitely get a straight one. The bent needle nose is more of a specialty tool. I have both and 95% of the time I reach for the straight one."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1532924 && dateTime=="01/08/19(Tue)17:16:29")

The outlet is a problem. Get a cheap $10 multi-meter and check that the outlet voltage is correct. If it's bunk call the landlord and tell them you need it fixed."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1532928 && dateTime=="01/08/19(Tue)17:22:07")

GO WITH THE CHEAP ONE. You said it yourself - you need to air up tires and use a blow gun. The cheap one will do just that. Realistically you don't need to use an impact wrench right now, and even if you did a breaker bar would produce more power than an impact wrench ever could on a little 6 gallon compressor. You also said you're upgrading in the future, so save your money towards the 30 gallon. The HF compressor is hella quite irl, but the price tag is a meme. Be smart, buy the small one, give it to your gf's dad when you upgrade."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1532933 && dateTime=="01/08/19(Tue)17:26:53" && image=="IMG_20190108_163941433.jpg")

"How the hell am I supposed to attach something to this electric motor? There is no shaft or a wire thread to connect anything to, just this weird shit on top";

if(Knipex. For Life. && title=="" && postNumber==1532936 && dateTime=="01/08/19(Tue)17:28:26" && image=="image.jpg")

Kek. I already got it. It sucks, I wish I got a 6gal or 8gal. But the 3gal for $55 came with a hose and blow gun and stuff. Spent another $20 on fittings and a real tire filler thing and it does what I expected it to do.

If I got a 6gal or 8gal for $100-$125, I would have to drop $20 on a hose and another $30-$40 for fittings and a blow gun and tire inflator. And at that point if I were into it for $200, I would regret not spending another $50 for a 20-30gal. So I can’t complain being that I’m only into it for <$100 and I don’t have to use keyboard cleaner for blowing or a shitty 12v tire inflator that takes 15min to fill up a tire."

if(Knipex. For Life. && title=="" && postNumber==1532937 && dateTime=="01/08/19(Tue)17:32:26")

Oi vey. What’s the inner and outer diameter of that tube coming out? Drill a hole straight through the shaft and attach whatever the hell you want to it and pray it stays balanced if that motor spins quick.

Wut is the motor from and what the hell are you going to do with it? That makes a big difference if you want an answer to your original question."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1532948 && dateTime=="01/08/19(Tue)17:44:19" && image=="IMG_20190108_163726154.jpg")

I don't know what it's from. I just found this in my grandfather's workplace. I would like to be able to attach polishing and sanding pads to it."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1532949 && dateTime=="01/08/19(Tue)17:45:44")

>How the hell am I supposed to attach something to this electric motor?
You're not. It's a pump, not a general purpose electric motor.
If you remove the impeller you'll find threads on the end of the shaft.
You may be able to make and adapter to make it useful."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1532952 && dateTime=="01/08/19(Tue)17:47:59")

Nice, the price you paid is just right for what you need right now - airing up tires and blowing off stuff. It's a small compressor and for now it does exactly what you want, no sense in wasting money. You'll get the 30 gallon eventually."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1532954 && dateTime=="01/08/19(Tue)17:51:13" && image=="ComeOnBuddy.jpg")

The motor itself ends right below the red line, you need to remove all that metal attachment shit above it. The shaft is up in there."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1532959 && dateTime=="01/08/19(Tue)17:56:41" && image=="Comparison.jpg")

Take off the square metal plate and you should have access to the shaft inside"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1532993 && dateTime=="01/08/19(Tue)18:46:01")

I'd use an all-metal lock nut. The only reason nylocs exist is cost in volume."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1533276 && dateTime=="01/09/19(Wed)07:57:17" && image=="61E5u-793eL._SL1000_.jpg")

"What kind of mandrel should I buy for my Dremel 8100?
Screw mandrel?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1533277 && dateTime=="01/09/19(Wed)07:57:50" && image=="51ecNaPbQYL._SL1000_.jpg")

"...or a mandrel like this?";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1533283 && dateTime=="01/09/19(Wed)08:09:40")


the one that uses collets works best for me. I have the chuck version and it's only useful for drill bits; all standard dremel tools fit either the small or the large collet.

what pisses me off is that it seems that whenever I swap tools it has the wrong collet like 90% of the time.

also, never push a tool all the way in. leave a tiny bit of room so you can gently tap it if it binds to the collet like mine do."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1533359 && dateTime=="01/09/19(Wed)10:26:26")

Some folks call them ovens...others cookers. Me; its the dinner machine.
From what i can tell the wire is fine once you discard the toasted end.
There isnt really any reason this should've happened. There is some markings down the back of the of cooker that suggest small amounts of liquid has ran down the back probably from condensation or the possible overspill from saucepans and such. (the pic shows the sort of thing on the left)

upon removing the terminal it has a variety of spade connectors which all look fine. If any one has any suggestions as to why it's happened i would appreciate the insight.
Again the earth connection was loose and the wire seems to have been subjected to some corrosion

When installing the new piece is there some sort of grease i can use over the connections to protect against moisture or corrosion?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1533363 && dateTime=="01/09/19(Wed)10:38:49" && image=="fullsize_3784.jpg")

>is there some sort of grease i can use over the connections to protect against moisture or corrosion?

you can coat it with pic related, which works fine when there is lots of pressure involved, like your screws will provide. I've been advised that pic related is not a good idea for something like computer connectors where the voltage is low and the pressure is low, and the film can interrupt the circuit.

here in america you can buy this at any automotive parts store, as it's recommended for spark plug boots to keep water out."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1533365 && dateTime=="01/09/19(Wed)10:42:36")

Don't forget to bleed off the excess when youre done using it. Most people don't, and wonder why they keep having to buy new compressors. Hint: it's all that rust inside."

if(Knipex. For Life. && title=="" && postNumber==1533382 && dateTime=="01/09/19(Wed)11:22:08")

I used this when I did my spark plugs last. Internet guy recommended it. Still works.

Oh I do, don’t worry. It’s Florida so the humidity can be ridiculous sometime. I have gotten in a truck before that nobody drained for awhile and literally gallons of oily nasty water come out."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1533422 && dateTime=="01/09/19(Wed)13:03:30")

And make sure you have a decent dust collection system in place. Not only to protect against combustibles, but also to protect your lungs and your equipment. Sawdust on metal is asking for rust corrosion. Wood working equipment can work in very cold conditions (check manufactures operating temperature ratings), but it's the moisture that fucks shit up. The easiest thing to do is ask your neighbors how they set up their wood shops. A basement workshop is also common in cold places, easier to heat.

If you are not completely austistic, it's a good way to get to know your neighbors and they make sell/give you their old stuff. Cold climates usually have detached uninsulated garages due to the cost of heat. But in expensive neighborhoods, insulated heated garages are the norm."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1533507 && dateTime=="01/09/19(Wed)15:34:02")

Is this anal safe?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1533508 && dateTime=="01/09/19(Wed)15:34:26" && image=="Funky.jpg")

You should use the first one without the shaft because the second style is redundant. It doesn't make sense to insert a shaft into the Dremel, tighten it, and then stick the accessory into the second mandrel and tighten it. Look at pic related, it looks retarded. Go with the shaft-less one."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1533514 && dateTime=="01/09/19(Wed)15:37:25")

Feed it an american diet."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1533521 && dateTime=="01/09/19(Wed)15:45:56" && image=="91170E6B-5CF2-4C28-A0D3-B2B3A34E910E.jpg")

And here’s without the shaft. Much more practical. Honestly though, that adapter is a meme unless you are switching collets often. I never use mine. If you are just using the one sized collet then the factory piece is gonna work better, and it’s not really any faster to switch out accessories. The factory unscrewable EZ Twist plastic piece on the end of the Dremel has a built in metal piece to use as a tightener, so there’s not really a need to use the black wrench to tighten stuff. Also that mandrel will limit your attachment useage as not everything fits with it in. I’d take a pass unless you are switching actual collets often. Otherwise you’ll see it’s too much of a hassle and won’t use it. Waste of money"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1533530 && dateTime=="01/09/19(Wed)15:52:35" && image=="6AF33D4A-5FC5-49C7-B04D-0588460438BD.jpg")

I should mention the shaft-less mandrel I’m using is a chuck version that screws on, it doesn’t use collets"

if(Bucca di Beppo && title=="" && postNumber==1533561 && dateTime=="01/09/19(Wed)16:34:32")

So that’s what the bar lube is for!"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1533649 && dateTime=="01/09/19(Wed)18:59:28")

"Are traps gay?";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1533657 && dateTime=="01/09/19(Wed)19:14:58")

thanks for the tips"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1533701 && dateTime=="01/09/19(Wed)20:30:44")

"Can anyone recommend a chemical for stripping black mastic from a basement floor? That you've used?";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1533732 && dateTime=="01/09/19(Wed)21:20:47")

Only if they can stud a wall."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1533791 && dateTime=="01/09/19(Wed)22:23:51" && image=="2E854A43-65C1-4C6C-B9A0-264CE39A2201.jpg")

"What caused this gummy bit on my sterling wheel? Isolated to the one location on the vinyl(?) center piece and hasn’t spread an inch in years but it’s always gummy and sticky. 90°F outside and it’s really gummy but is still soft and sticky at 0°F. If I had a guess it looks like a solvent got to it but I’m not sure. I’m curious if there’s a cleaner or something I can use on it to make it harden up. If not I’ll order a new center cover for the steering wheel or maybe an entire new steering wheel.";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1533808 && dateTime=="01/09/19(Wed)22:49:45")

>If I had a guess it looks like a solvent got to it but I’m not sure.

Not necessarily a solvent, but, either way, something's reacted with it chemically and turned it to mush. Even if you knew exactly what caused it, it's unlikely you could reverse the damage."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1533894 && dateTime=="01/10/19(Thu)02:14:02" && image=="3PIN-JST-XH-KIT-000-500x500.jpg")

"How do i find this little fella? I have always known them as "molex" and then learned that that is a company, not a model, and then I looked it up and people called them JST and that is still some sort of umbrella term.

I need to find a 2 pin and a 3 pin version on mouser, but cannot seem to find them. I need to buy a thousand of them. So... how do I call them?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1533941 && dateTime=="01/10/19(Thu)04:40:33")

"what is the fucking deal with unionfags? i applied to be an apprentice electrician, i have education up to calc 3, i got nearly 100% on the exam and i swear i did well on the interview but these fuckers never called me back. i live in an area where many projects are occurring and it's fucking stupid they act like they need tradesmen when it takes over a year to apply and they don't hire genuinely good, young workers who have never been fired. seems like they only hire people with references in the union. fuck";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1533942 && dateTime=="01/10/19(Thu)04:46:12")

They're JST connectors, like you said. Like the picture you posted, which you found by Googling "JST connector", and has "3PIN-JST" in the filename, shows you.

JST connector. That's it."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1533959 && dateTime=="01/10/19(Thu)06:51:07")


Likely a loose connection causing arcing. If you can actually find replacement terminals and cover for that specific oven then just cut the cable back a foot or so.
If not then a new oven don't try and fix that burnt out shit.

There are many types of insulation gels that would "water proof" the connector but in 15 years a spark I have never used them."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1533996 && dateTime=="01/10/19(Thu)08:30:41")

JST 3 point / 2 point connectors"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1534050 && dateTime=="01/10/19(Thu)11:07:38" && image=="happythanksgiving.jpg")

FUnny post of the day. Cant stop giggling."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1534146 && dateTime=="01/10/19(Thu)12:59:34")

I'm getting into carving with my dremel. Common board is working out incredibly, but I have trouble with depth. Is there any way to set my depth on a dremel carving bit properly? I'm carving my favorite quotes onto plaques."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1534232 && dateTime=="01/10/19(Thu)14:35:48")

>there are some cars with the parking brake integrated into the rear caliper

dont be an idiot like me and start slamming the rotor with your mallet when you get pissed off that it's stuck, only to find out that the (drum) parking brake was engaged the whole time and had crumbled into nothing when you eventually do get the rotor off."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1534278 && dateTime=="01/10/19(Thu)15:31:45" && image=="yeet.jpg")

The Dremel router attachment works great for getting a consistent depth. I personally used mine to carve initials on a bench I built"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1534280 && dateTime=="01/10/19(Thu)15:37:29")

Perfect. Any advice on getting a clear, clean cut with the guard blocking my view at points?
Also I've been using the 7th bit in your pic. I assumed the first four were drill bits, but are they also carving bits?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1534368 && dateTime=="01/10/19(Thu)17:28:41" && image=="7f796c40d040762c40d48abbe1c5a1f0.jpg")

"So I want to convert an old concrete pillar into a roman column. Pic related is the process I would be taking.
1. Use hammer drill to drill holes and fit with rebar & chicken wire
2. build plywood mold around original column
3. Allow to harden
4. Remove mold and carve details into new concrete before it's fully cured+carve flutes into original column using stone carving tools.

So I was hoping someone here could help me solve some issues and provide insight whether this is a viable plan. Right now I can't figure out 4 things:
-What is the best concrete mix would be for a smooth finish?
-Would my 2x4 wooden supports be able to support the top plywood mold?
-Will it be possible to remove the plywood molds while the concrete is still soft enough to be worked with a trowel, or will it droop?
-Does 500 lbs seem like too much weight to add to the top of a column intended to only be 1300 lbs?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1534377 && dateTime=="01/10/19(Thu)17:40:03")

you can kind of see it in the pic, but the back side of the attachment has a much wider opening for better viewing. I clamped the wood I was working on to my table saw to have somewhere to work, and set up my shop vac on reverse. Aimed it at the piece I was working on and also clamped it into place. That way I had a constant airflow to remove the wood shavings, or else it gets hard to see quick. Wear ear plugs because the shop vac blowing + Dremel running is loud."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1534380 && dateTime=="01/10/19(Thu)17:44:33" && image=="83425285-CB24-4DB7-9A5C-E4681A468FA6.jpg")

Came out looking like this. I had to stencil it on and then trace the pattern. I used a small bit and it took forever. Practice on scrap wood first, but you’re definitely gonna need something to consistently blow away the shavings"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1534407 && dateTime=="01/10/19(Thu)18:31:07" && image=="C__Data_Users_DefApps_AppData_INTERNETEXPLORER_Temp_Saved Images_1528416853989.png")

"I'm a newbie with diy stuff and I wasnt able to find the answer to my question anywhere so here it goes :

I've seen a lot that a supposed way to see if your three pin outlet is grounded is to measure voltage between the phase and the grounding hole and see if it's around 0.03 or something depending on the outlet voltage.

But wouldn't the voltage be the same shit or even straight zero if the grounding hole wasnt connected to anything ?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1534420 && dateTime=="01/10/19(Thu)18:49:47" && image=="33653939-471E-4C5A-8433-F6AC256A7F9F.jpg")

Just buy a receptacle tester they’re like $5. Two orange lights means everything is wired correctly"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1534433 && dateTime=="01/10/19(Thu)19:19:50" && image=="1545062625631.jpg")

Noice, could you still give an explanation for my question, please?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1534434 && dateTime=="01/10/19(Thu)19:22:42")

Sounds like you got it all worked out, just dont take the molds off to soon an you should be all set. Go for it champ"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1534444 && dateTime=="01/10/19(Thu)19:42:49")

>could you still give an explanation for my question, please?
The explanation for your question is: You didn't know what you were doing.
The ANSWER to your questions is. No.
If the outlet is grounded properly, the ground pin will be 0 volts.
If you measure between the 'hot' or 'line' pin and the ground pin it should be whatever the line voltage is. (USA = ~120vac)
If you measure between the 'hot' or 'line' pin and the 'neutral' pin it should be whatever the line voltage is. (USA = ~120vac)
If you measure between the 'neutral' and ground pins it should measure 0 volts or very close to it.

If you don't understand this without asking, you probably shouldn't be sticking anything (even meter leads) into live sockets."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1534446 && dateTime=="01/10/19(Thu)19:46:02")

ground should be referenced to earth at the main panel.
multimeter should measure
~110v AC between PHASE and NEUTRAL
~110v AC between PHASE and GROUND
~0v AC between NEUTRAL and GROUND
~0v AC between ANY PIN and AIR

do not use a multimeter if you don't know how to use it properly or you don't know enough to trust it (cheapies can be dangerous).

also: this is not the correct way to commission a grounded outlet, the impedance should be measured using a low impedance meter by someone who knows how to use it after properly isolating the circuit to ensure the resistance is low enough to operate an overcurrent device during fault condition in order to protect wiring as designed."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1534454 && dateTime=="01/10/19(Thu)20:01:11" && image=="1546357856544.jpg")

Firstly, checked.

Secondly, I didn't try anything for the exact reason I don't knoproperly what I was doing. I checked what sompeople said over YouTube and came here to ask questions to more experienced boomers.

What you said is exactly why I was confused : I heard some guy said there would be a 0.03 reminiscent voltage on a grounded hole and nothing on a not grounded one and I found it weir."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1534456 && dateTime=="01/10/19(Thu)20:04:44")

Yeah, I found the "advice" funny, like I said in >>1534454.

I came here to exactly ask sparkies what actually goes down."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1534458 && dateTime=="01/10/19(Thu)20:07:09")

*some people
**know properly

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1534459 && dateTime=="01/10/19(Thu)20:08:51")


Ffs I'm typing like a literal nigger"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1534486 && dateTime=="01/10/19(Thu)21:25:52")

The top of the column wont likely be ever touch. Give yourself a break and make out of plaster. Easy to carve, easy to fix, light and very flexible with the finishes."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1534494 && dateTime=="01/10/19(Thu)21:32:15")

The problem is that my column is outdoors in a sorta wooded area. I was already debating using mortar for the finer details, but I figured it wouldn't last years in the elements. I've never worked with plaster, but I imagine it wont hold up in the long run."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1534981 && dateTime=="01/11/19(Fri)17:41:12")

"Is dexcool mixed 50/50 by weight or volume?";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1535023 && dateTime=="01/11/19(Fri)18:42:43" && image=="IMG_20190111_163856.png")

"Hey /sqtddtot/, what the FUCK is this wretched, trash style of furniture called and why in fuck does it even exist in the first place? The fact that this exists offends me a great deal.";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1535026 && dateTime=="01/11/19(Fri)18:45:11")

"distressed furniture"
yeah it's real and real stupid"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1535070 && dateTime=="01/11/19(Fri)19:49:34")

Volume, usually. Mine is always premixed. I don’t want to buy distilled water to mix with it."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1535098 && dateTime=="01/11/19(Fri)20:44:14")

"I have a 3.3kw solar +battery off grid system, I would like to expand the solar array to increase the base output of solar during cloudy/winter weather but have little need for additional peak power output during summer, is it possible to do this without having to handle the peak power output by upgrading inverters etc?";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1535101 && dateTime=="01/11/19(Fri)20:57:22")

"I have never made anything in my life. What should I do?";

if(Beppu && title=="" && postNumber==1535140 && dateTime=="01/11/19(Fri)22:16:17" && image=="39BC12DD-AA06-45ED-8098-2AFB647A2AFF.jpg")

">at Home Depot at 9pm on a Friday night because old man Bepis is a real baller
>wander into the Dremel section in search of tiny buffing wheels because Barbie wants Ken to get off his lazy ass and buff the scratches off her Lexus
>Ken thinks to himself “If that cunt wasn’t always taking selfies for her Snapchat, she probably wouldn’t have traded paint with that parked car at the mall”
But that’s another story...
>find mini buffing wheel
>$7 for something that should cost 50¢ and come in a plastic bubble from a gumball machine
>how the fuck does this thing attach to the tool?
>$10 for the mandrel
I look around on the shelf and see every accessory needs that new EZ Lock bullshit so you might as well throw away all of your other rotary tool bits and spend $30 on the set with a couple circles of sandpaper and another $40 on a set with some tiny round rough stones. Literally, a 7pc buffing and sanding set, so 6 wheels plus a Ken sized tub of compound was $30 and it didn’t even come with that new mandrel. Fuckin Je...

A spice rack"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1535178 && dateTime=="01/11/19(Fri)23:16:59" && image=="tumblr_odkbax5CLK1qd0jf3o1_1280.jpg")

"Hey guys, first time homeowner here so bear with me.

2016 house, we bought it new construction. Master bedroom and bath is upstairs. Whenever someone takes a hot shower or bath in the winter like right now (SW Texas, so not below freezing) I hear this clicking or ticking coming from the drain pipe that goes straight down the wall to the sewer main. PVC piping so obviously it's the pipes expanding in the heat, but I have some concerns:

1. How damaging is this for cold pvc pipes to expand and contract like this? What are the long-term effects?

2. We basically don't run our heat at all during the winter. Where we are in TX it rarely ever goes below freezing, maybe 5-10 days of the year max. Most of our winters are in the 40s-50s. So most of the time the indoor temp in our house is in the 60s, occasionally going down to the high 50s. Since the house is new construction it's well insulated and sealed up tight, we have a radiant barrier and blown insulation in the attic and I saw they put in fiberglass insulation in the exterior walls so those drain pipes are being somewhat insulated. Is us keeping the heat on 55 going to negatively impact the pvc because it's going to be colder by default and expand contact harder?

Again please bear with me but I'm totally new to a lot of this stuff and I'm really paranoid that basically everything I'm doing is destroying this house. Appreciate any wisdom from you guys."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1535195 && dateTime=="01/11/19(Fri)23:44:19")

*bare, goddamnit"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1535198 && dateTime=="01/11/19(Fri)23:46:11")

It's fine. I live in Alaska, have pvc as my out and the ground is frozen solid more than half the year."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1535200 && dateTime=="01/11/19(Fri)23:49:55")

Sorry, i should add that my crawlspace is vented for the furnace, so its pretty cold down there with the pipes, but no issues.
That doesn't mean to not keep an eye on shit. New builds are pretty bad as far as everybody cutting corners, cheaping out, and doing shit QC"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1535205 && dateTime=="01/12/19(Sat)00:02:13")

Oh damn, yeah if it's rated to work in those kinds of situations then this should be fine. Yeah that's part of the paranoia too, with new builds you never know what horrors lie in wait. Thanks Anon"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1535241 && dateTime=="01/12/19(Sat)00:51:55" && image=="23408573.png")

"Is there a way to filter out fucking cooking from instructables?";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1535242 && dateTime=="01/12/19(Sat)00:57:25")

Gap is to hold solid wire or cylindrical things as it gives more surface to grip with."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1535259 && dateTime=="01/12/19(Sat)01:17:17")

Whats the bets way of going about getting an oil fracking job? I always put that I'm willing to relocate to do it but never any call backs. I've heard it helps to have a PO box out where the work is so it looks like you're already in the area."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1535278 && dateTime=="01/12/19(Sat)03:17:20")

try to find ones that have onsite housing, the biggest issue with hiring someone for oil work is how demanding it is on your body, and if you had to rent an apartment in the area, and on week 1 or 2 you give up, your on the hook for the length of the lease, in a way its kindness that makes them not respond when you say you would need to move. barring this, try and stay as far outside of needing to give an address as possible till its needed."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1535306 && dateTime=="01/12/19(Sat)04:58:00")

"Just curious...
I have stainless steel parts that have been grinding against each other.
There is a "black powder" residue. Anyone knows what it is? Carbon?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1535398 && dateTime=="01/12/19(Sat)09:37:49")

"Guys, I need some kind of connector, 6 wires. So female would be SMD and male would be a cable i can solder to. Need that to program my STM's on the final pcb's. I could just go with 2.45mm sockets but those take space and I don't want shit sticking up once I have removed the cable.

Something like camera connector on the raspberry pi.

Any references?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1535404 && dateTime=="01/12/19(Sat)10:09:14")

you can. pull the wire out of old usb cord if u have some layimg around igs pretty small"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1535406 && dateTime=="01/12/19(Sat)10:10:36")

>why in fuck does it even exist in the first place?
1. Women.
2. Pinterest.
3. Idiots."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1535531 && dateTime=="01/12/19(Sat)14:54:50" && image=="ferm.jpg")

"Anyone know of a heater that would work in a small enclosed high humidity environment that won't shut off when it hits as high as 140F/60C? I'm trying to grow koji spores and it's going to be around 75% RH at 85F/30C. Ideally with a fan.

Pic related is what the whole setup looks like."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1535534 && dateTime=="01/12/19(Sat)15:01:12")

The faucets and the shower head have come loose in my bathroom. Is this a DIY or should I call a professional? They move in and out of the wall if you grab it. How is it supposed to be secured?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1535543 && dateTime=="01/12/19(Sat)15:17:50" && image=="eff.jpg")

Uncle just texted me and asked "Think you can fix this?" Looks like an oven control panel. Not sure if I'd want to try fucking with something that can burn down someone's house."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1535544 && dateTime=="01/12/19(Sat)15:21:39" && image=="eff1.jpg")

What the fuck would I even diagnose? I can't tell how this thing is fucking put together, or why the board doesn't seem to have opposite-side holes for the parts."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1535550 && dateTime=="01/12/19(Sat)15:38:58")

"i'm trying my hand at building a pi-based digital dashboard. what would be the best type of screen for visibility in daytime? lcds are nice but they are kinda hard to see in bright daylight.

>inb4 just get torque or some other obd app"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1535565 && dateTime=="01/12/19(Sat)16:09:27")

You can buy thermo camera, turn it on, and literally see the problematic area."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1535567 && dateTime=="01/12/19(Sat)16:13:13")

How much info do you need to show? You can buy cheapo monochrome OLED displays like SSD1309 they're great at daylight bc of their nature."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1535569 && dateTime=="01/12/19(Sat)16:17:34")

If it's simply a short, then I'll use some freeze spray--fuck buying thermocams for stuff like this."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1535570 && dateTime=="01/12/19(Sat)16:18:41")

The ones you connect to your cell phone are cheap"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1535583 && dateTime=="01/12/19(Sat)16:40:52")

what is the name of a screw that has twin slots? it is like a ring spanner screw, but it has 2 slots like (- -)"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1535611 && dateTime=="01/12/19(Sat)17:12:04")

">buy ink cartridges for my fountain pen
>both the pen and the cartridges are supposedly fit for "international" standard
>cartridges arrive after a month
>don't fit on the internal bib, just falls off immediately
>drop a 1cm spring into the back of the pen, and screw it together
>spring keeps the ink cartridge attached to the bib
>a week has passed and it doesn't seem to leak
I don't know why a spring isn't standard in these pens. It's added security in that it keeps the cartridge in place even if the seal fails."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1535640 && dateTime=="01/12/19(Sat)17:47:26")

spanner slotted (or slotted spanner) head"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1535716 && dateTime=="01/12/19(Sat)19:37:04")

Look at the discoloration at post L1..its been hot. Check solder connection on copper side of board and check the trace to the relay. Good chance its a bad solder connection, blown trace or bad relay."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1535791 && dateTime=="01/12/19(Sat)21:25:30")

"I've gotten some nice pieces for a multi-part mold printed up from Shapeways. Some of the parts were too large for their smoothing post-finishing process.

1) Aside from sanding by hand, are there any other ways to make the mold interiors as smooth as possible? The plastic I had available from Shapeways wasn't amenable to vapor-smoothing, so that is out. Given that the interior is cylindrical and concave, is there something like a round piece of sandpaper you can attach to a drill to help with the smoothing?

2) Given that this is a multi-part mold, I'm going to have some inevitable part lines. Any good ways to get rid of those or smooth them out in silicone?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1535844 && dateTime=="01/12/19(Sat)22:50:20" && image=="20190112_194639.jpg")

"how the FUCK do I solder this terminal on this big capacitor I salvaged? The capacitor itself still functions, but solder will just not bind to this shit. As you can see, i've already fucked it, but the capacitor still works. What do they use to put terminals on these things?";

if(Kevin Van Dam !ZNBx60Gj/k && title=="" && postNumber==1535851 && dateTime=="01/12/19(Sat)23:06:56" && image=="image.jpg")

How smooth do you want to go? If you’re shooting for near mirror finish, pic related will go on a drill. Somebody must make a barrel sander thing just like it."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1535871 && dateTime=="01/12/19(Sat)23:47:30")

They are basically riveted in. It is a mechanical fastener."

if(anonomuss && title=="" && postNumber==1535958 && dateTime=="01/13/19(Sun)03:36:50" && image=="1F1846F5-4037-4221-8329-EF213F720B03.jpg")

"Ok, this thing...

>HF light
>ripped out 3x AAAs and replaced with Li-Ion
>rigged up little board from power bank with 5V/1A output so can charge via USB and provides battery protection
>attach 3 extra LED strips and replace on-off switch with off-lo-hi switch
>turn on Low, everything works well
>turn on High, works for a few seconds, then cuts off
>based on guess, it’s too much current
So I just took the extra 3 strips off. Now I turn the power on (Lo or Hi), and the LEDs just start flashing real dim. There is a little button on the board you can press to see the battery level indicator LEDs. If I press that, it turns those little lights on and then the switch works perfectly. It’s almost like switching on the main one light, the little board doesn’t sense that something is plugged in and needs power, but then pressing the little battery level button turns it on. But with the 3 extra strips, even on low power, the board automaticaly knows something needs power when I press the switch.

What is going on? Maybe the low power of the light + 3 strips pulls more current than the one light on high, and there’s a certain threshold the board needs to see to send 5V to the output?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1535959 && dateTime=="01/13/19(Sun)03:43:14")

> how the FUCK do I solder this terminal on this big capacitor I salvaged?
You need flux my friend."

if(SELF-bump && title=="" && postNumber==1535965 && dateTime=="01/13/19(Sun)04:01:50" && image=="1546759244476.jpg")

anyone? self bump"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1536015 && dateTime=="01/13/19(Sun)05:50:47" && image=="sanders.png")

"Looking to buy a cheap random orbital sander. I don't get much time to do woodworking but it would be handy to have one for when I do.

Top one or bottom one?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1536040 && dateTime=="01/13/19(Sun)07:42:47" && image=="91pPm5vV4oL._SL1500_.jpg")

I have one of these and it's a beast, it's also silent, you can use it in the middle of the night in a neighborhood and no one would even know. They were clearance thing for the new model and I got this puppy for $90. It can do pretty much everything except the heaviest of stud nail guns. I airbrush models but I also airbrushed a car and ran a roofing nail gun nonstop. I 100% recommend these. I also linked mine to another pressure tank to mine after the fact and I can charge it in about 5 minutes and airbrush for a week. Good shit."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1536090 && dateTime=="01/13/19(Sun)09:42:47")

Lookup “Widows Walk” essentially that’s what you want. I don’t do houses here in Ameriland let alone Australand but it might give you ideas on what you’re looking for."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1536092 && dateTime=="01/13/19(Sun)09:55:25")

>Wants a 7" table saw
The cuckery has hit new heights"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1536094 && dateTime=="01/13/19(Sun)10:01:11")

>Carving concrete
Why not just make a mold and cast the finished product?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1536096 && dateTime=="01/13/19(Sun)10:06:02")

First and foremost women, but also capitalism
>Aye, Jeff. What do we do with all this out of spec, beat to hell furniture?
Sell it as a premium. We totally meant to do that.
>Aye, Jeff. What do we do with all these jeans with holes and shitty dye patter?
Sell it at a premium. We totally meant to do that."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1536098 && dateTime=="01/13/19(Sun)10:09:33")

My Makita has been running like a champ for a few years now.
Go on eBay and bulk order sandpaper straight from the chinks."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1536110 && dateTime=="01/13/19(Sun)10:25:04")

This would require some good maths to get 100% correct. You’d need to upgrade your inverter if you want to leave the additional panels up during cloudy days in the summer so that when high irradiance days come along you don’t over work your inverters. A cloudy day you’d be fine but when the sun comes out you could start to fry shit if you’re over producing for the inverter. The ‘stupid’ solution would be to install your additional panels during winter months and when you don’t need them as daylight increases, make jumpers and disconnect your extra panels. Shit could still go wrong though if you’re not monitoring your production close enough. The ‘complicated, simple solution’ would be to base your calculations for additional panels on the best possible production from the start of your low production period (beginning of winter) to the end of low production period (end of winter). Have those dates as your absolute highest production value. Basically, if those two days are perfect production days, how many panels could you add and still be safe with your inverter. When the beginning of winter comes around (date you calculated) add your extra panels to your array. When the the end of winter (other date you calculated) comes around, unplug the additional panels from the array.

tl;dr version, if you want no hassle good production in winter, upgrade inverter to handle your additional panels during peak production season. If you don’t mind doing math about angle of the earth relative to the sun and calculating production during ideal conditions within a timeframe and connecting and disconnecting a set number of panels so you don’t overload the inverter, then you can get by without upgrading.

Honestly, if I had enough time I’d do the calculated adding/removing. “What’s your time worth?” is the big question."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1536128 && dateTime=="01/13/19(Sun)10:57:01")

"What is the pivoting arm bit on a miter saw called? Where can I find something that functions similarly for cheap that doesn't have to be rigid enough for a saw?";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1536132 && dateTime=="01/13/19(Sun)11:02:06")

>upgrade inverter to handle your additional panels during peak production season
Do you understand how a solar system works?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1536133 && dateTime=="01/13/19(Sun)11:04:42")

Greasemonkey for Firefox or Tampermonkey for Chrome. Make or find a userscript that adds filters to the site. Websites that have premade scripts for download are listed somewhere on the download page for the extension and there are numerous tutorial elsewhere. This is what was used before 4chan added the native extension to the site. Ah, the days of 4chanX. You're entering a black hole of internet customization. Don't get lost.

Closest I've found with quick internet search is that it is filings of steel that have been mechanically stressed and exposed to friction causing them to oxidize. Depending on what grade of stainless you're using this seems probable. Look up mechanical abrasion of st. steel on st. steel. Maybe you can find a scholarly article somewhere if you're interested enough."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1536135 && dateTime=="01/13/19(Sun)11:08:22")

If you have 2000 watts worth of panels producing all 2000 watts and a 1000 watt inverter something ain't going to work."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1536138 && dateTime=="01/13/19(Sun)11:18:55")

You could waste electricity by mining"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1536141 && dateTime=="01/13/19(Sun)11:22:30")

Do you know the current flows by demand, and not by itself? If you have zero load, your inverter wont do shit. I am no solar expert, in fact pulling it out of my ass rn, but the part that will be damaged are solars themselves, bc with no load taken off they'd overheat."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1536144 && dateTime=="01/13/19(Sun)11:33:39")

>bc with no load taken off they'd overheat.

don't kid yourself son, you ARE a solar expert."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1536157 && dateTime=="01/13/19(Sun)11:56:57")

You’re correct to an extent. I read the original post as ‘battery and grid tied’ so that’s on me. I deal with grid tied systems. Personally I haven’t seen panels that were disconnected but still exposed to sun degrade any different from ones that were left hooked up. Not all panels are made equally, some are rediculously reliable even when cracked and damaged. At the same time, I’ve seen panels that were hooked up have hot spots that could cook an egg. Seems like companies that are jumping on the commercial and utility sized solar wagon are starting to cut corners on the panel and inverter side of things. Serveral older (meaning 5-10years old) manufacturers of both have almost no maintenance or repairs required even when the installation specs were questionably followed. Built to just work. While newer panel manufacturers seem to just make just to spec, nothing more, and inverter manufacturers are starting to get into proprietary equipment useage for optimal function of their units like Apple and their iPhone dongles for headphones. I’ve seen inverters take in more than they’re rated for because the panels were a higher rating than what was on the design plan. The technical term is a “thermal event” my term is it fucking caught on fire when it was turned on. Many times even solar service techs don’t know how the fuck solar works. I won’t claim I fully understand every aspect of it but I can tell if something is going to be a problem, usually."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1536172 && dateTime=="01/13/19(Sun)12:24:45")

Install a battery disconnect switch, most people use them for older/classic cars to prevent theft but there are also plenty of people who use them to keep someone from driving off in their new car. Operation is simple, you can get some that are just a switch you hide in the cab (under the dash is a common place) or ones that require you to pop the hood and flip the switch. I don't think you have to be concerned about frying computers or anything as long as the car is off before you disconnect the battery. Shouldn't be hard to install yourself, especially the under hood variety, and not expensive."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1536275 && dateTime=="01/13/19(Sun)14:50:14" && image=="IMG_20190113_143819.jpg")

"/diy/ I'm trying to install one of those window film insulation kits for a drafty window. Unfortunately my window is embedded pretty deep with respect to the wall and I'm not sure where I should stick the tape. Can I stick it on the edge orthogonal to the window? Any suggestions?";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1536289 && dateTime=="01/13/19(Sun)14:58:08")

Neither of these posts make any sense.
A solar panel doesn't produce more watts than its load draws.
But neither does a solar panel overheat if the load is undersized. Consider this thought experiment: you mount a 2kW solar array outside in the blazing sun, but it's disconnected with no load. It doesn't overheat fry itself even though it says 2kW on the sticker.
Neither does then panel overheat if you connect it to a 1kW inverter with anything or nothing plugged in."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1536291 && dateTime=="01/13/19(Sun)14:58:57")

>If you have 2000 watts worth of panels producing all 2000 watts and a 1000 watt inverter something ain't going to work.
Thank you for proof you don't understand what you're talking about.
I have an 80W inverter that connects to the electrical system in my car.
(it's to power a laptop power brick)
The alternator (= solar panel) is capable of 250A @13.8VDC. (~3500W)
Why doesn't my 80W inverter blow up?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1536302 && dateTime=="01/13/19(Sun)15:09:48" && image=="off_grid_solar_power_system_simplified_diagram.jpg")

>You’d need to upgrade your inverter
No. You MAY need to upgrade the charge controller.

The solar panels connect to a charge controller.
The charge controller is connected to the battery bank.
As long as the charge controller(s) are matched to the battery bank, nothing will be amiss by adding more than the necessary panels.
If you can afford it, more panels mean you're less likely to experience power loss due to cloudy days - just what the op wanted.
The important factor when adding panels is that the charge controller be capable of handling the extra panels and protect the batteries.

The inverter is connected to the battery bank.
The inverter is selected by the power demand of the load - not the supply."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1536341 && dateTime=="01/13/19(Sun)15:50:03")

thanks, but it took a bit to long, ended up getting some silicone wire hoping the problems with flexion damage would be solved with it being far more malleable than pvc wire.

if this doesn't work, i'm thinking of hot gluing wires down so parts that break cant flex at all."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1536401 && dateTime=="01/13/19(Sun)17:33:23")

Wouldn't it be better to just fix the draught?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1536405 && dateTime=="01/13/19(Sun)17:43:43")

Have you heard of the law of conservation of energy? Consider a system where sun introduces energy, and there's a constant load. Now, suddenly, you stop streaming it back to load. Where does it go? Magically reflect from the mirror? 10 bucks say they go right in your ass."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1536462 && dateTime=="01/13/19(Sun)19:08:21")

I read the original post wrong. As I said I only deal with pure grid tied systems. I gave poor advice and I apologize.

Speaking from my perspective the inverters have input limiting protocols to protect the inverter from inputs exceeding the maximum rated amount. These input limiting features still have large amounts of heat involved. The general process of DC to AC conversion generates heat regardless and over-input only adds more. When exposed to long periods of heat components of these machines crap out. It shortens their life. Add high ambient temperature and it compounds the issue. Fan capacitors die, boards fail shit gets hot. If the filters are dirty and airflow restricted shit gets really hot. I’m telling you I’ve seen, in person, inverters on fire because of an oversized array causing too much thermal buildup in the cabinet. As I said before, companies aren’t making these things as durable as they should even though they’re data proves it can safely handle more doesn’t mean it’ll safely do it forever. If I had to guess as to why your car version doesn’t blow up it’s probably because it’s rated to handle that much more energy for a longer period of time, your car isn’t 100°F inside, and isn’t running 100% duty for 12hrs a day everyday, has a cooling fan that still works, and a somewhat clean heat sink. I’m not here to argue electrical knowledge about lines and loads. I’m arguing a different point than what you’re calling me out for."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1536469 && dateTime=="01/13/19(Sun)19:16:24")

it goes straight back to being potential energy"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1536594 && dateTime=="01/13/19(Sun)22:59:16")

"Let's say I'm making a PCB using cad EAGLE.

I have a resistor.
I have the part name, a long one. (the mouser link of it with all of the specifications).
I have the resistance of it.
I have a designator, or a name. "this one is R1".

My schematic shows "NAME" and "VALUE".


What's the "correct" way of conveying the information? Like I can put together a mounstrocity that works but this time it is for a "serious" project, and I'd like it to go the standard route.

My questions:

>¿What do I put in my VALUE field? do I put "1k 1%" or the manufacturer part name? wouldn't that clutter the board?

>¿How do I convey the info in the BOM? If I have 3 resistors and they are all 0603 SMDs do i make 3 devices or just one and then change a parameter in the schematic?

>Will things become screwed up if I change the names of everything by hand "R1, R2, R3, IC1" If it's a project where it's so small I can get away with it? or that will cause a problem in the future and I should change them from the library in order for them to be automatic.

I know I sound like a rambling mess right now. I guess my problem is "using the correct names where they should go is scary, is there a place where someone says just do it this way and people will understand what you are saying""

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1536649 && dateTime=="01/14/19(Mon)01:08:21")

"so I'm unemployed and a friend of mine told me there's a factory in which his aunt is a clerk that's looking for people
obviously, he told me that I should say that I'm there because of a newspaper ad and not because of his aunt
the thing is, the ad says that it's looking for electricians with experience in welding and mechanics, yet all I know about electricity doesn't go beyond home repairs, and I've never welded nor worked with machines either
I ain't getting inside, am I? he said that the factory is looking for all sorts of employees, even apprentices, if I look competent enough, nonetheless I have zero tangible experience in such field. I never went to trade school and I didn't graduate from a tech high school"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1536661 && dateTime=="01/14/19(Mon)01:54:49")

Try anyway, the worst that can happen is you don't get the job."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1536765 && dateTime=="01/14/19(Mon)09:44:10" && image=="IMG_20190114_141404.jpg")

Okay guys I have tap problem. Pic related. The linkage between handle and valve got broken(I think - pull the handle, nothing happens except in some positions where it "clicks"). I have my tools at workplace, so not gonna do anything with it until tomorrow, but I have a question - can I somehow repair it without replacing the whole thing?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1536974 && dateTime=="01/14/19(Mon)18:21:52")

"Alright niggers.
I need to drill some holes in a wall (concrete) but all I have is a normal electric drill - which is mostly fine as it will only be 4 walls.
The question is bits - I know I need a masonry bit but I've got a question about the shank, specifically.
The drills shank is a hex, but I see people suggesting SDS or some other shit, but Im somewhat sure I just need a masonry bit with a hex shank right?
correct me if im retarded."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1536989 && dateTime=="01/14/19(Mon)18:49:16")

If your drill accepts regular hex shank then get regular hex shank mason bits. The other shanks are for specific drills that only use that shank. Don’t let the bit get too hot just go slow and steady and the bits will last a lot longer. Good luck negro."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1536993 && dateTime=="01/14/19(Mon)18:53:00")

>The drills shank is a hex, but I see people suggesting SDS or some other shit, but Im somewhat sure I just need a masonry bit with a hex shank right?
If you think it'll be mostly fine because it's only 4 walls(holes?), think again, it's almost impossible with a regular drill even with a masonry bit.
Rent a SDS+ rotary hammer, buy a couple bits, and save yourself the headache.

t. tried normal drills, masonry bits, then hammer drills which aren't much better, until I finally just bought a rotary hammer that works like butter."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1536995 && dateTime=="01/14/19(Mon)18:55:07")

I dont know man. I dont think the concrete is so tough where I live, most people just use a normal drill.
Thats what I thought, thanks. I will buy some extra ones as Im gonna fuck it up."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1537482 && dateTime=="01/15/19(Tue)12:52:06")

"I'm trying to make my bathroom timer fan work.

(UK WIRING) Current wiring in the Isolator switch is L1 - Black, L2 - Brown, Neutral - Grey on top / bottom.Grey has brown tape on it but from googling I can't find what the fuck thats actually meant to be, I thought grey was neutral, and grey with brown tape is showing 0 results. Am I wrong, is my wiring wrong? Both the timer fan and isolator switch are brand new. The old one that came with the house wasn't functional either."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1537933 && dateTime=="01/16/19(Wed)11:00:30")

throw it away.
the riveted part (that you imp broke) is copper, and the rivet itself (that left there) is aluminum that you cannot solder

next time desolder the cap properly"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1538515 && dateTime=="01/17/19(Thu)15:12:27" && image=="s-l1600.jpg")

"What is the best, strongest, most active chinkshit flux paste?
I need to solder some cheapo chink DIN connectors and they're a fucking pain to do, I need something drastic to make it stick.
Pic probably unrelated."