import 4.code.options;
import 4.code.about;

class Header{

public void title(){

String fullTitle = "/diy/ - Do-It-Yourself";

public void menu();

public void board();

public void goToBottom();

public void refresh(a);

class Thread extends Board{
public void /3DPG/(OP Anonymous){

String fullTitle = "/3DPG/";
int postNumber = "1529065";
String image = "3DPG.jpg";
String date = "01/03/19(Thu)08:59:39";
String comment = "Triggering all the austists with a new, shiny and shilly copypasta edition
Old thread: >>1525609
All the info you need about 3D-printing:

>Need help with prints? Go to:

If that doesn't help you solve your print problems, please post:
>A picture of the failed part
>Printer make & model
>Filament type/brand
>Bed & extruder temperature
>Print speed

>What printer should I buy? [Last updated 1-1-2019]
Under 200 USD: Creality Ender 3
Under 500 USD: Creality CR-10
Under 1000 USD: Prusa i3 (Mk2 or Mk3)
Over 1000 USD: Lulzbot or Ultimaker
Buyer beware: some chinkshit clones are garbage. Some can be genuinely good, though.

>Where can I get free things to print?

>What CAD software should I use?
Solidworks, Inventor, AutoCAD etc. all work, but Blender and Fusio 360 are free:"

public void comments(){
if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529073 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)09:11:09")

"How much time does the fucking gearbest chink shit takes to ship orders? It's been a week and it's not shipped yet";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529077 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)09:22:09" && image=="IMG_20190102_233200[1].jpg")

"First for smaller pew pew"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529090 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)10:09:46")

That is without a doubt the shittiest /3DPG/ collage I have seen"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529091 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)10:17:50")

Nope, last one was clearly worst since it wasn't even a collage. If you think you can do better, go right ahead."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529092 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)10:25:31")

"PLA welding, yay or nay?
If yay, friction or heat?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529093 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)10:28:10")

"FDM sucks! We must abandon FDM so that we may advance!";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529095 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)10:32:05")

Jay only on thick walled pieces, as soon as you hit <75% infill with heat welding your weldbath collapses. I've gotten away with friction stir welding with some pretty nice results, although you're best off doing some practice runs on throwaway parts. Get a dremel for it anyways, because it's incredibly useful for cleaning up prints.

All hail our new FFF overlords."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529106 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)10:47:35" && image=="Screenshot_2019-01-03_10-44-52.png")


I understand that the pic should appeal to actual owners, but occasionally I'd like to see a pic or set of pics that would make me seriously consider buying a printer. That sad bunny up there screams "NOT YET BABY!!!" Same with the tugboat that I used to see.

I once saw a blog where the guy had made a harmonic drive that supposedly worked. That and usable gearboxes might appeal to robotics people. Or high quality things that serve useful but unexpected purposes. In an old trucks forum a guy needed bushings so he bought some pricey polyurethane mix and made forms with his 3d printer (pic related), so something like that with some text describing what it is and how it was designed and printed might have some appeal."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529125 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)11:16:09" && image=="20181218_212425.jpg")

"Rate my Groot.";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529130 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)11:31:36" && image=="20190103_101930-1209x1612.jpg")

His head seperated a bit, but had some 2 part epoxy clay laying around to fill/fix."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529131 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)11:33:11")

dude the collage is constructed from pictures in the previous thread, and i think that is the correct way to do this, it represents the thread well"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529132 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)11:35:02")

straighten your screw rods my dude"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529135 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)11:41:33" && image=="20181217_073342-756x1008.jpg")

Hrm was wondering about the scanline-look to them. Some of my first prints on the hairy spider so still adjusting/improving parts. Recently ordered another z axis for it to install this weekend. Will adjust it then thanks fren"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529137 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)11:47:39")

Tiny volume is fine, that can be designed around. I mean in aspects like quality and price.
When I ordered chinkshit it was between 2 weeks - 2 months total shipping time, depending on how lucky you were"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529141 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)11:53:19" && image=="1544409460947.gif")

Always order from CA warehouse or the closest warehouse if available. Ordered a tevo tarantula from there and it arrived same week."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529142 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)11:54:09")

>where do you live
How do you gauge the quality of what you get? You can't go looking for a specific model. How do I for instance know if a Tronxy C5 for $370 or a Tronxy X5SA for $580 is a good deal?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529143 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)12:00:13")

>I mean in aspects like quality and price.
Chinkshit is always going to be cheaper, and a physics still apply: your printer is more stable if it's supported from two sides.

If you want a second hand printer, consider websites like tradera.

>How do you gauge the quality of what you get?
Reviews mainly."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529144 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)12:00:57" && image=="20190103_185733.jpg")

Bruh wanna buy my frankenstein machine? It works fine but i'm getting a Prusa so i don't need it anymore, i'd be willing to sell it for like 150e + postage, idk how much that would be, i live in Finland."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529145 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)12:05:11")

>Built with simplicity in mind."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529158 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)12:35:30")

What do you mean about only being supported on one axis?
>consider websites like tradera
Why not Blocket? It appears to have more ads open right now"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529161 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)12:43:43" && image=="217111.jpg")

Maybe improperly worder, but the X-axis (left to right movement) in the Monoprice is only supported on the left side. In most chink tier printers like the Prusa or Ender copies, the printhead is always supported on two sides. Moving your toolhead away from the base adds torque, and unless you use a very stiff and thick arm it'll bend, which may or may not be noticable in printing results. As long as you limit the overhang (and thus build volume) it's probably fine but it's clearly a cost cutting decision for cheapass printers, not something made for precision at a reasonable cost.

I'm not Swedish, I just googled what Swedens regional craigslist alternative is, you can figure it out yourself if ou actually speak the language."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529164 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)12:49:19")

If you haven't already then consider printing out the support brackets for the frame.

Artifacts from inertia and frame vibration become more obvious as you get further from the printing bed.

For taller prints having a really rigid frame helps a lot.

Installing the other z axis will obviously help as well."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529167 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)12:52:20" && image=="1470945177260.gif")

I think he means there's only one Z axis supporting the whole thing. Can lead to the whole machine leaning and makes it hard to level the bed, among other problems. Two Z axis steppers are recommended, but many cheaper printers only have one. Adding an extra Z axis costs around 50-75 usd for the parts, if your machine has the ability to be upgraded, like an anet or tevo"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529168 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)12:57:56")

Yea I need to get the frame solid. It does have a lot of give in some of the areas. Probably will print those on the new z axis."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529170 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)13:02:45")

Im strangely aroused by his hole like stumps..."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529218 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)15:06:02")

This is a DIY board, RepRap should be in the OP"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529219 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)15:08:42")

This is a DIY board, you should have the initiative to read the pastebin. The OP is just there to answer 90% of the most common questions that newbies ask and fill the thread."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529223 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)15:13:43")

the opening picture is half full of reprap"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529245 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)15:48:27" && image=="supply_and_demand.png")

Anyone know why half of Hatchbox's inventory is out of stock all the time? Trying to get a spool of their wood filament and its been out of stock for months now. They not making it anymore or just flies off the shelves too fast?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529247 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)15:49:32")

small shelves high demand"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529253 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)15:52:50" && image=="shazbot.jpg")

Fack. Aight better just order it and get on Amazon's wait list then..."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529254 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)15:53:12")

[Edition] Edition
Old thread: >>[Post number of previous thread]
All the info you need about 3D-printing: [Link to this pastebin]

>Need help with prints? Go to:

If that doesn't help you solve your print problems, please post:
>A picture of the failed part
>Printer make & model
>Filament type/brand
>Bed & extruder temperature
>Print speed

>What printer should I buy? [Last updated 3-1-2019]
Under 200 USD: Creality Ender 3
Under 500 USD: Creality CR-10
Under 1000 USD: Prusa i3 (Mk2 or Mk3)
Over 1000 USD: Lulzbot or Ultimaker
Buyer beware: some chinkshit clones are garbage. Some can be genuinely good, though.
Instead of buying a new printer, you could consider building your own:

>Where can I get free things to print?

>What CAD software should I use?
Solidworks, Inventor, AutoCAD etc. all work, but Blender and Fusion 360 are free:"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529256 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)15:55:16")

yeah i mean i guess"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529265 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)16:03:22" && image=="1478930876774.jpg")

"Christ stop complaining about OP you faggots. Its good enough. Tanking this thread into the shitter

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529268 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)16:05:10")

hey now, more posts = betterer, ain't that right?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529273 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)16:16:49")

Hey now, stop defending bitchy faggots mmmkay?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529278 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)16:23:34" && image=="HTB1UMbhaiDxK1Rjy1zcq6yGeXXan.jpg")

"Has anybody here tried these airbrush nozzle adapters? There was a german dude who used to make and sell them some time ago, but now it looks like the chinks have copied his design and got the price down to 4$ delivered."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529285 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)16:30:14")

neat, guess i'll order the 0.2mm and see if it makes a difference"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529288 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)16:33:34")

So basically it allows for better part cooling but I'm guessing it clogs easier?"

if(Jeff && title=="" && postNumber==1529289 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)16:33:39")

>triggering the autists addition"

if(Jeff && title=="" && postNumber==1529291 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)16:35:06")

Groot /"

if(Jeff && title=="" && postNumber==1529294 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)16:35:38")


if(Jeff && title=="" && postNumber==1529296 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)16:37:47")

Pic relevant as fuck"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529299 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)16:40:11" && image=="e79a0285869b6dc959f919ffd1ade8fb.png")

bit doubtful about those, the portion whose diameter is the nozzle diameter is quite long, there's a reason nozzles designed for 3d printing have a very short portion in which the diameter is the actual nozzle diameter, pic related"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529302 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)16:43:52")


It's not about part cooling, the airbrush nozzles are very tiny (0.2mm, there are even 0.1mm ones) and you can print really small details with them. But the narrow conical shape does help with cooling at that scale. My guess is that they clog easier if you're not careful, as is generally the case with small nozzle diameters."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529304 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)16:46:35")

>It's not about part cooling, the airbrush nozzles are very tiny (0.2mm, there are even 0.1mm ones)
But you can get normal 0.1/0.2 nozzles for a few cents.
You don't need airbrush nozzles for that."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529315 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)16:55:07")

Well, the only thing I know of airbrush nozzles is from owning an airbrush. They're extremely fragile; if you over tighten them they break, if gets hit it deforms and won't work anymore, if you screw them in and out too many times they break, etc. They seem too fragile for the purpose."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529318 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)16:56:23")


I guess you can nowadays, it used to be a pretty niche thing. I'm still curious how they compare - airbrush nozzles have a very unique profile where the wall thickness goes crazy-thin at the very tip. I haven't seen anyone machine a pointy tip like that on a brass nozzle. Them being made out of stainless steel might also affect the behavior. I asked hoping someone here already had some insight on them but i guess for 4$ it's not a big investment, if just out of curiosity."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529322 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)17:00:37")

"Is PLA good for mechanical parts or not? I keep hearing it's brittle and for decorative use only but it's yield strength is higher than ABS... I want to make a fan.";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529400 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)18:39:30")

PETG is your friend. And yes PLA isn't strong, especially for thinner parts like fan blades."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529424 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)19:02:30")

PLA can be much stronger than ABS if you bake the print in an oven. Just print a fan and try it, it's not like PLA is expensive."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529425 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)19:04:46")

Skinny tip like that will have a hard time keeping the plastic hot enough so that it bonds with the previous layer. The nozzle tip will be cooled very quickly as it moves and also if you have cooling fans. Like anon >>1529299 said, 3d nozzles are a bit blunt for a reason."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529438 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)19:25:43" && image=="1538271709952.jpg")


What about a Booru with cool printed stuff that gets posted in these threads or at least a collection of OP collage pictures

We'd need a /3dpg/ dad to manage it but I or any other one of us could do that"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529446 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)19:38:12")

more shit posts = faster 404, killing actual conversations about 3d printing"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529466 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)20:02:18" && image=="1544149793516.png")

don't bully the newbies"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529480 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)20:15:59")

"Is AmazonBasics filament good?";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529489 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)20:27:22")

You're allowed to make another thread when this one falls off the board, Anon."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529495 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)20:36:02")

If course you are, but it's pretty annoying trying to post about something when everyone else is talking about how shitty the OP is (which it isn't)."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529496 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)20:37:04")

How tf is it bullying to post facts?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529547 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)22:24:41")

I bought their grey. It worked, bout all I can say. I think it came in a resealable bag which in nice too"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529551 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)22:33:34")

>resealable bag
See, you never see things like that in reviews. Inland seems to do that for some of its rolls but not for others. Was it wound well? The photos show distance measurements on the spool cutouts, did yours come with those?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529558 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)22:51:02")

Does it snap easily or something? Why is it's yield strength higher then? Is it just good under tension?
I need to decide whether to get a PLA or ABS printer. My old printer was ABS but it broke and I heard PLA is generally nicer to work with + the mechanical strength numbers look good yet all I hear is that PLA is bad for mechanical parts."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529570 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)23:13:49")

"Are these cheap Chinese printers even safe?
I'm not convinced"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529574 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)23:21:42" && image=="1540886849015.gif")

Yea its brittle. It has a tiny bit more give than abs, but not much. I mean it will do what you want but if you're looking to make something actually durable, there's plenty of other options besides PLA.
>PLA or ABS printer
Get a printer with a heatbed on it. You can print multiple types of plastics with that including ABS and PLA"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529575 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)23:21:54")

Anon, pretty much any printer these days can do both. A printer that can do ABS can print PLA too."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529576 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)23:24:02")

The point of buying a cheap 150 to 200 dollar printer is to outfit it with parts over time. You can upgrade the PSU, mobo/chip, etc on them.
For ex: Tevo Hairyspider and Anet types"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529580 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)23:33:12")

You mean any printer that can print ABS can also print PLA

But if it doesn't have a heated bed and some kind of enclosure it can print PLA but not ABS"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529581 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)23:34:22")

So they're not safe, ok that's what I thought."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529586 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)23:40:00" && image=="1528182941733.png")

Throw out all of your cheap made in china appliances then faggot. That or just pick up a chip for 20 bucks that fixes any board problems."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529593 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)23:55:53")

>Are these cheap Chinese printers even safe?
check your lady purse at the door faggot, only men here
I use my chinese 3d printer's rough cut aluminum frame to shave in the morning while I boil coffee on the shorted out heated bed"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529598 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)23:59:03")

Who is this kid and why is acting like 3d printing is a fortnite meme or something?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529599 && dateTime=="01/03/19(Thu)23:59:39")

There's a difference between "cheap chinese electronics" and "cheap chinese hobbyist equipment", one is much more likely to burn your house down. There's been more than a few fires due to printers because of people not wanting to drop the extra $20-50."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529602 && dateTime=="01/04/19(Fri)00:06:26" && image=="Anonworksinchina_3b03a3_5958830.jpg")

>someone's house burned down
There's risk with everything in life. Also implying that there's any difference, China cannot make anything to a standard. Ever. Cheap appliances have just the same probability of catching fire. Also there are things called circuit breakers and surge protectors."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529603 && dateTime=="01/04/19(Fri)00:06:35")

If you can't be bothered to inspect or test your cheap, Chinese equipment and just trust it blindly, then you kinda deserve to have your house burnt down desu. You know who put together that knock off weller soldering iron? Or Prusa clone? Some 10 y/o kid who can't even understand what he's being child labor'd into making. You really trust him to correctly wire an inline AC fuse? Ha."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529612 && dateTime=="01/04/19(Fri)00:13:21")

Do you really expect people to read that long ass pic? If you want to say chinks are dicks then just say it."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529614 && dateTime=="01/04/19(Fri)00:18:27" && image=="Seriously_though.jpg")

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529664 && dateTime=="01/04/19(Fri)03:30:45")

you can print ABS without an enclosure. It was the norm for years before PLA came along."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529785 && dateTime=="01/04/19(Fri)10:22:53")

"Redpill me on PETG";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529789 && dateTime=="01/04/19(Fri)10:26:12")

Material properties of ABS with 80% of the printing ease of PLA. If you're making structural components, you really should be using this stuff."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529802 && dateTime=="01/04/19(Fri)10:45:36")

How did he get those to release from the mold?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529806 && dateTime=="01/04/19(Fri)10:48:26")

Clearance angles and mold release, probably."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529826 && dateTime=="01/04/19(Fri)11:11:21" && image=="20150822_180355_d8771454a8a13412e1e4327848eb13a144e1fc61.jpg")


He said mold release. Pic related is the truck that needed bushings, along with a lot of other work. It amazes me that people will buy something like that and restore it."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529827 && dateTime=="01/04/19(Fri)11:11:43")

Why are you all so blasé about this? You could die!
Is Taiwanese equipment any better? The DaVinci XYZ printer seems sturdy, I thought it was Western.
Some of us don't have electrician certificates
But it will warp.
Why is nobody using it then? There must be some catch."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529832 && dateTime=="01/04/19(Fri)11:13:28" && image=="truckgoingbaktgethr_acffafde4c973d1830628520cb76af80eac349fe.jpg")


Current status. Much work left to go."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529834 && dateTime=="01/04/19(Fri)11:14:56" && image=="0a2fe0ea-08af-4c4a-9fa9-89aeb4c524c4_1.cb70de67dfff3366ddb297a7e64599dc.jpg")

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529837 && dateTime=="01/04/19(Fri)11:18:02" && image=="Cb_crash_bandicoot_stoned_as_hell_meme_by_krazykari-d82t5xd.jpg")

>give advice. Doesn't like advice.
Do what you want then dude."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529846 && dateTime=="01/04/19(Fri)11:22:21")

>Why is nobody using it then? There must be some catch.
Everyone I know is either still using PLA (because they don't nee structural parts) or moving away from ABS into PET. Companies like DSM that are relatively new to market aren't developing ABS, they're developing PET instead because it's just as strong, if not stronger with all the print defects ABS can have."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529879 && dateTime=="01/04/19(Fri)12:22:57")

>Why is nobody using it then? There must be some catch.

People are using it, it just entered the 3d printing market more recently. ABS is the very first material used in home 3d printing, PLA came after that, and in recent years we've seen a much bigger variety with things like PET, PP, Nylon, Wood/Metal/Carbon fiber composites etc.

PETG doesn't directly compare to ABS:
- It's more bendy/flexible
- More transparent.
- Has higher thermal resistance than PLA but not as much as ABS
- Chemically resistant, so it can't be acetone-smoothed.
- Harder to paint
- Tends to string more
- Doesn't warp much, if at all, meaning you don't need an enclosure"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529898 && dateTime=="01/04/19(Fri)13:10:46")

is PETG good to make wearables that would be exposed to heated enviroments like a car under the sun?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529917 && dateTime=="01/04/19(Fri)14:03:37")


It may soften depending on how hot it gets. Think "cocacola bottle", they're made out of PET.

Annealed PLA will give you better heat resistance"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529921 && dateTime=="01/04/19(Fri)14:15:24" && image=="s-l300[1].jpg")

>How did he get those to release from the mold?
Mold release does help, but I've found that if you also intentionally make the mold weak enough (or have a plan for cutting it off) it will break away from a fairly wide variety of rubbers and urethanes.

Buy this and apply it anyways though."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529927 && dateTime=="01/04/19(Fri)14:30:50")

Dude think about how a fire that burns down a house starts, the printer ain't enough, even if the control board shorts and melts it ain't gonna do anything really, you need fuel, this is something you can affect easily, don't place easily burning objects near the printer's control board, have the control board enclosed in a metal enclosure."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529935 && dateTime=="01/04/19(Fri)14:41:14")

I would worry more about the chink PSU than the controller.
But 30-40$ buys you a decent enough ATX PSU to replace it."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529944 && dateTime=="01/04/19(Fri)14:47:02")

You can get a used psu for 10$ that will work just fine, a printer will only require MAX 200W, these things don't really require too much power, but imho as long as you aren't running the chink PSU too close to its rated current it ought to work fine."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529947 && dateTime=="01/04/19(Fri)14:54:42")

"> a printer will only require MAX 200W, these things don't really require too much power
You usually have to get a higher rated one since the power is divided by the different voltage rails in a way that isn't optimal for 3d printers.

>but imho as long as you aren't running the chink PSU too close to its rated current it ought to work fine.
There are just too many ways a PSU can fuck up in a dangerous way.
I wouldn't trust cheap chink ones since they like to cheap out on components with no regards to safety."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529950 && dateTime=="01/04/19(Fri)14:56:07")

>Is Taiwanese equipment any better

>The DaVinci XYZ printer seems sturdy
It's built like regular consumer electronics, i.e like an HP inkjet printer. It's just as useless if it gets bricked, but some people manage to convert it into off the shelf reprap electronics

False, look at the Dice printer"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529953 && dateTime=="01/04/19(Fri)14:58:35")

>You usually have to get a higher rated one since the power is divided by the different voltage rails in a way that isn't optimal for 3d printers.
What do you mean? Can't you just throw 3 yellow wires into the + terminal and 3 blacks into the -?
>There are just too many ways a PSU can fuck up in a dangerous way.
Any examples? Actually interested, considering using those cheap chinese power bricks on some printers but kinda concerned about safety."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529954 && dateTime=="01/04/19(Fri)15:03:02")

Is it me or does every single groot come out wobbly like that?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529957 && dateTime=="01/04/19(Fri)15:06:42")

>unless you use a very stiff and thick arm it'll bend

Or... will it? Remember Mono Price Mini's x axis is made out of steel."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529967 && dateTime=="01/04/19(Fri)15:11:03" && image=="Beam.jpg")

>Will it bend?
Yes it will, you can add a bigger E-modulus all you want."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529974 && dateTime=="01/04/19(Fri)15:13:22")

ATX PSU don't just supply 12V. They also supply 3.3V and 5V (and usually an additional 12V rail). Every voltage has its own max current rating (it's usually on a sticker on a case).
A 200W ATX PSU doesn't guarantee you that the 12V rail is rated for 200W.

>Any examples?
Badly insulated transformer, bad spacing in the pcb, and shitty caps are the usual suspects."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529979 && dateTime=="01/04/19(Fri)15:19:23")

>Badly insulated transformer, bad spacing in the pcb, and shitty caps are the usual suspects.
I see, is there any way to get around these? Like gettin 20% bigger than necessary PSU? I really wouldn't like to pay 2.5x the price for a chinese manufactured product but from an european store."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1529988 && dateTime=="01/04/19(Fri)15:28:10")

Dumpster diving for old PCs maybe?
Even a 10 year old pc is likely to have something better than a 200W PSU."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530011 && dateTime=="01/04/19(Fri)16:09:53")

This is an actual valid consideration tbqh at least for low production numbers i'm considering just sourcing used atx PSU's from somewhere."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530016 && dateTime=="01/04/19(Fri)16:18:30" && image=="20181217_072554-756x1008.jpg")

My tevo hairyspider only had one Z axis at the time. The whole thing is leaning just enough to have that scanline effect. Planning to print another after installing another Z to compare results."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530053 && dateTime=="01/04/19(Fri)16:54:58")

Ok thanks, I will buy the DaVinci."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530056 && dateTime=="01/04/19(Fri)16:57:21")

>I will buy the DaVinci.

Not sure if that's a troll..."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530059 && dateTime=="01/04/19(Fri)17:00:31")

I just want something that works off the shelf, is good value for money, enclosed and won't burn my house down. Sorry I'm not really into the DIY part of 3D printing."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530068 && dateTime=="01/04/19(Fri)17:07:52")

Fren! Swear need to add you on Kik or something to peer chat hairyspider issues.

So, imagine printing a pencil on it's point, any way to gradually slow the print's bed axis movement speed so reduce pendulum wobbles at the Apex of movement. Even if in vase mode, eventually the bed has to slow cease and invert direction causing wobble in tall prints."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530071 && dateTime=="01/04/19(Fri)17:10:42" && image=="1529349735357.gif")

>Comes to DIY board
>Afraid of anything going wrong with 3d printing
>hears one thing about a printer
>buys printer

You do understand that 3d printing is not just plug/play even with a consumer model? Troubleshooting a 3d printer is a day to day thing. I don't care how much money you throw at a machine, it's still going to need adjustment/fixes to get it to run right. If you're thinking you'll never have to fix anything with the machine you're delusional."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530078 && dateTime=="01/04/19(Fri)17:16:21")

>Vase mode
Had no idea there was such a thing. Hrm I imagine there's slicers out there that can do that. Using Cura atm, and still getting the hang of that. I'll look into it."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530091 && dateTime=="01/04/19(Fri)17:27:10" && image=="001.jpg")

>Dice Printer
Hey this thing looks pretty cool. Y u do this? I want to build one of these now."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530096 && dateTime=="01/04/19(Fri)17:38:47")

>I just want something that works off the shelf, is good value for money, enclosed and won't burn my house down

Those are all the exact opposite of what Davinci printers are.
You are either a shill, or havent actually looked into the printers."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530098 && dateTime=="01/04/19(Fri)17:41:25")

Wait for my 200x200 to finish development"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530099 && dateTime=="01/04/19(Fri)17:42:43" && image=="IMG-20181218-WA0012.jpg")

Same, and using a hairy spider. It's only an issue on tall prints because the bed physically moves while printing and without obnoxious supports you can tell where the layer start it do to the prints inertia. The thinner the print the more obvious made a vertical dowel for the Trex head for a frien's daughter and it printed with just a growing indent. Along the shaft. Good times."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530128 && dateTime=="01/04/19(Fri)18:45:12" && image=="1535001889018.jpg")

I would probably switch over to PETG but ABS has a few extremely useful features for what I do with my printer - painted figures.

ABS sands very nicely, it can be acetone welded, it takes paint and filler materials very well, and if I need to it can be acetone vapor smoothed."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530167 && dateTime=="01/04/19(Fri)19:34:20")

>False, look at the Dice printer
I did, and it looks like it uses a standard nozzle so I don't understand why you brought it up."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530169 && dateTime=="01/04/19(Fri)19:37:06")

You can get new 500w computer psu for around $20 though"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530183 && dateTime=="01/04/19(Fri)20:11:53" && image=="1538704669976.gif")

No doubting that. That eevee is fucking smooth as eggs"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530242 && dateTime=="01/04/19(Fri)21:37:11")

Come back in 3 years and we'll probably have something for you. Right now your first two requirements are nowhere to be found - but mandatory thermal runaway protection in firmware updates a few months back has addressed the biggest cause of house fires. But getting it on old machines means flashing firmware and it's a pain in the ass. I had to buy an Arduino."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530253 && dateTime=="01/04/19(Fri)21:54:24")

Ho-lee shit that is buttery smooth!
How much post-processing was needed, and do you have an enclosure?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530275 && dateTime=="01/04/19(Fri)22:32:40" && image=="1516864090262.jpg")

There's a fuckload of post-processing but it's hard to argue the results:

>remove supports
>clean support scars with Dremel
>if necessary for the print, cut hole with a soldering iron and fill the print with plaster for added weight
>sand with 220 grit and hobby files
>if I decide to, this is the step where acetone smoothing comes in
>Bondo spot putty in problem areas
>Rustoleum filler primer
>sand with 400 grit
>white primer
>airbrush base color
>clear matte coat
>airbrush highlights and shadows
>paint details
>clear matte coat
>add any base or stands needed"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530282 && dateTime=="01/04/19(Fri)22:37:51" && image=="1521688044793.jpg")

Tiny details like the teeth are printed on a Form 2 so that I don't have to paint around them later

Here's the small Jad, also from a Form 2"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530285 && dateTime=="01/04/19(Fri)22:45:55" && image=="1515965987084.png")

I'd also like to make a Fire Cape but I'm not sure 3D printing is the right technology to use for it.

Printed fabric?
Sliced polymer clay?

I do have access to a flatbed printer so conceivably I could 3D print the cape and then 2D print the lava pattern on afterwards"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530295 && dateTime=="01/04/19(Fri)23:06:57")

that's rad."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530296 && dateTime=="01/04/19(Fri)23:08:44")

>fill the print with plaster for added weight
I would recommend just using cheap fishing weights or tungsten chunks in the feet/base"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530298 && dateTime=="01/04/19(Fri)23:13:39")

I'd say airbrush the pattern onto something, would be sweet"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530312 && dateTime=="01/04/19(Fri)23:50:38")

I've had a DaVinci since 2015, it's broken now hence why I am looking for a new printer.
>inb4 fix it
I have in the past but they have a new upgraded model out now the 1.0 Pro. It has an aluminium heat bad and allows third party filament and slicers. The print quality of the old model is honestly not great + the proprietary filament but the reviews on the new one are good.
Since it ticked my other boxes of ease of use, safety, enclosed and large build volume I have decided I will stick with the DaVinci if the print quality issues are solved.

The ease of use isn't even my main concern anymore, Back in 2015 I was a scared noob which is why I bought the DaVinci but now I've gained enough hands-on knowledge to be able to handle a DIY kit but the main turn off is the fire risk."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530340 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)01:18:00")

Pretty funny considering that every time someone asks for a recommendation for a first printer, while mentioning he is a total noob, he will get a recommendation with comments about how everyone is buying those atm like there aint any problems anead but at the same time they hardly ever get a warning like yours. This is more of a thread weak point, than a problem with him."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530341 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)01:20:11")

That thing looks like a hell to maintenance."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530360 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)03:01:04" && image=="da vinci.jpg")

This thread got totally chinked."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530373 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)03:47:11")

>main turn off is the fire risk
There's like, TWO printers with that issue, the rest are fine."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530380 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)04:54:42")

iirc thermal runaway protection is an opt out in all big firmwares. So you need to fuck up big time for shit to catch fire"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530381 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)04:55:45")

"what is /3dpg/ consensus on FreeCAD?";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530386 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)05:04:19")

Buy an Ultimaker then, that davinshit will still take plenty of fiddling."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530387 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)05:05:03")


I was looking for that image earlier..."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530388 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)05:20:27")

I use sketchup8 only, final destination. It does exactly what I want"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530395 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)05:48:50")

dude just buy a fucking prusa if you're willing to pay that much, don't buy a fucking davinci jeesus"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530416 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)06:49:27")

>Doesn't warp much, if at all, meaning you don't need an enclosure
It does though, at least compared to PLA. I haven't used ABS so I can't compare, but I bought some PETG because it was advertised as "the strength of ABS but easy to use like PLA" and I've had nothing but trouble with it. It's always peeling off the build plate or curling up even though I have a heated bed. My PLA prints always come out great and I'm not convinced the PETG is all that much stronger."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530417 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)06:54:12")

Having doen compression testing with both PLA and PET, I know PET is stronger - but that isn't always relevant when your part design is on point. Print quality is much more important than material properties in a lot of cases.

If it's coming off the buildplate, have you tried hairspray? Are you using a glass bed, or something different? We're using a large volume delta printer with massive (glass) surface area, PET can stick so damn hard it's practically impossible to remove, so I kinda doubt your claims about bad adhesion. If it's curling up, just add a small brim. My main issue with the stuff is stringiness, but that's easy to clean up."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530418 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)06:56:38")

>It's always peeling off the build plate or curling up even though I have a heated bed.
>and I'm not convinced the PETG is all that much stronger.
Sounds like you used too little heat, which makes it stick less and also causes poor layer adhesion.

Properly printed PETG is quite strong. PLA isn't even in the same league."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530419 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)06:59:13")

>PLA isn't even in the same league.
Guy who actually tested them, PLA and PET are in the same league, it's all well below 10Gpa."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530420 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)07:03:55")

What plastic isn't?
Even glass fibre reinforced plastics will be well below that."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530421 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)07:07:09")

I was going to post something to contradict that but then I remembered I'm under NDA."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530424 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)07:19:46")

Oh wait, were you maybe talking about it's young's modulus instead of the ultimate tensile strength?
But then PETG should be lower than PLA because it's less rigid."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530427 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)07:29:14")

Obviously, UTS for plastics is in the MPa range. Rough specs as per Innofil (100% infill, optimal orientation:
>PLA UTS: 38 Mpa
>PLA E-mod: 2.85 Gpa
>PET UTS: 41 Mpa
>PET E-mod: 2.26 GPa
Pretty much in the same league, but this is all in tensile tests. In compression, PET performs significantly better -and there's some fiber reinforced PET materials out there that wipe the floor with both of these."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530432 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)07:41:18" && image=="carhartt.jpg")

"what do you wear in the workshop?

looking for some clothing that veers more towards utility than /fa/ workwear flimsy masculinity"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530444 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)08:21:06" && image=="20190105_151310.jpg")

"It finally came, really loving how small it is.
Hope it works well."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530488 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)09:37:34")

wear what you want, masculinity is greatly overrated. A tool holder belt may be useful"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530493 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)09:42:12")

Just assembled my first 3d printer (Tevo Tornado) and I'm at the stage of leveling the bed;;
It says that "the nozzle should be as far from the printing bed as a A4 sheet of paper, but on my machine as I assembled it, the nozzle is WAY higher than the max height of my bed.
Am I misreading on the bed alignment stuff?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530496 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)09:44:39")

Well he's right though, the do it yourself aspect should be more prominent. I looked for this thread in /g/ first, since I merely purchased a 'almost' fully built Tornado.
My original plan was reprap but I decided to go with a cheap pre built tornado first to make sure I'll enjoy it before I learn it, invent my own printer and enter this market."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530503 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)09:51:57")

People need to stop thinking of 3D-printers as a thing you are making yourself. It's become a tool, just like a mill, lathe, press, etc., which means that at this point in time the best option is to buy one, use it, modify it as necessary, and maybe build your own to fit your particular needs AFTER you get some experience with the process. Building your first printer isn't even economically or educationally useful given the price and learning experience you get with chinkshit i3 clones. Building your own from scratch is only useful as a further learning experience or if you are genuinely trying to innovate the market - both of which rely on prior experience assembling and using a kit."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530507 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)09:58:02")


Maybe you put the Z-endstop too high? The bed can be adjusted with the screws but it might not be high enough for your case."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530515 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)10:03:48")


I was gonna say

>buying an 8bit board in the current year

but hey, these are cheap. RAMPS is now what, 8 years old? And it's still unkillable"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530517 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)10:04:41" && image=="28516460_508687162860890_212139066789528664_o.jpg")

Rene is using an airbrush nozzle now"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530521 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)10:07:26")

Yeah ain't 8-bit fine as long as you do it from the sd card? Going to 16-bit would nearly double the price."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530523 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)10:08:31")

>Yes it will
Only if it's made out of a plastic drinking straw"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530524 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)10:10:09")

What board has a 16-bit MCU?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530525 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)10:10:18")

He's a proper madman ain't he.
Well at least we can all properly observe the true limits of FDM since he has just about reached them."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530526 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)10:10:29" && image=="HTB1zlnTDKySBuNjy1zdq6xPxFXa1.jpg")

There are 32 bit mcu's that are cheaper than the Atmega2560 now

No use in going to 16 bit"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530528 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)10:14:21")

Oh wait nvm i remembered incorrectly. Why aren't there any 16-bit chips anyway?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530532 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)10:18:03")

Cool, i'll look into it."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530533 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)10:18:34" && image=="Capturar.png")

There are, but no one uses them, at least for 3d printers"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530534 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)10:20:35")

There are. But none are popular for hobbyist purposes.

32-bit ARM MCU are becoming popular because there are very cheap ones that have good FOSS tools available."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530535 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)10:22:55" && image=="Beams.jpg")

If you want the same maximum deflection given identical load and beam length, EI needs to be 16 times as high in a single supported setup vs. double support. Aluminium vs. steel only improves E-modulus by about 3, leaving you to make a beam with a second moment of inertia roughly 5 times as high even if you switched materials just like that. This is not even going into the torque introduced into the Z-axis, because it's slope is going to introduce another compoud deflection in the X-axis.

Alternatively, since beam length adds up with it's cubic function, you could take the third order root of that factor 16 (roughly 2.5) and reduce the overhang by that amount, which is roughly what they've done: Reprap stuff is around 200x200mm, those single arm printers are roughly 100x100mm. Close enough for government purposes, but you can clearly see why a single support is mechanically inferior."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530539 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)10:32:11" && image=="20140104031423-smartrap_assembled_2.jpg")

>but you can clearly see why a single support is mechanically inferior.

I know the theory, I went to university and saw that same chart (only ever used the third and first row) , but in practice support on a single side can be better for certain applications since you don't need to worry about either end going out of sync. For a printer like the Wanhao Mini i3 the deflection is so small in comparison to other print artifacts it's almost as if it doesn't exist.

A bad design would be the smartrap mini, not because the beams can deflect (the plastic parts do), but because they can tilt inside the bearings"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530541 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)10:36:53")

>Building your own from scratch is only useful as a further learning experience or if you are genuinely trying to innovate the market
Or if there is no printer available that is up to your standards yet you don't care about changing the market and just build what you want."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530543 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)10:38:42")

If you haven't owned a printer yourself yet, I doubt you have standards, or the knowledge to build your own regardless."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530548 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)10:47:28")

>For a printer like the Wanhao Mini i3 the deflection is so small in comparison to other print artifacts it's almost as if it doesn't exist.
I'm going to disagree here, frame deflection (wobble) is usually what causes print artifacts such as ghosting, and stiffening up a frame can greatly reduce those artifacts. My point isn't that a single arm design is rubbish though: they have their place at the bottom of the market because a properly designed compromise in frame stiffness can free up money for other components while maintaining a very competetive pricepoint. The only other solutions to remain competetive right now are to clone other designs, or to generate massive volume like the Anets used to, and the Ender is doing right now."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530556 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)11:01:20")

absolutely based design your pic
fuck complicated fags, simplicity is the way to go"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530557 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)11:10:38")

>and stiffening up a frame can greatly reduce those artifacts
One time I was having crazy amounts of rippling, the walls would be wavy themselves, then I found out my hotend mount screw wasn't in. The hotend holder assembly was rattling around. There's only so much a stiff frame can do."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530561 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)11:14:01")

Alright then, user error is probably the number one cause of print artifacts. Frame stiffness is a good second."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530565 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)11:25:30")

you are not talking to the same person anymore."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530566 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)11:25:40")

>absolutely based design your pic
>fuck complicated fags, simplicity is the way to go
lmao that shit can't even print straight at z > 5cm
let alone fast changing direction"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530570 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)11:35:40")

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530577 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)11:45:18")


if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530580 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)11:49:20")

is that a fucking water cooled hotend?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530588 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)12:10:28" && image=="54578611656798245210940077c32ced_preview_featured.jpg")

"Anybody here use Simplify3d and can help me with this? I've got a few pics incoming but we'll start with the finished prints. The copper colored one shows my problems the best.

Simplify3d tries to put "interior" top layers over infill, but it does it in a way that the edges have pretty much no chance of staying straight. Its like only the top-most top layer (out of 3 top layers in my case) gets a perimeter line, but those are so critical to bridging the lower top layers. pics incoming of S3D visual"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530589 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)12:16:33")


I'd consider looking at any of the top layer settings, or (infill) overlap settings."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530592 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)12:16:52" && image=="s3dtoplayers.png")

Looking back at my s3d it looks like none of those top layers have perimeter lines, perimeter lines start with the layer that has walls instead of topfill.

When I slice the model in Slic3r it tries to do pretty much the same thing, but it will extend all the way to the external peremiters on two of the four dimensions.

sorry if this doesn't make any sense. The copper colored lanyard should show it all, its trying to lay down angled top layers over infill and its just sucking ass at it."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530593 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)12:17:41")

"I've taken note that most people are using the simplify3d software despite its high price point, why is it superior to less expensive alternatives? Does it actually move my machine in a superior way to the others or is it just more user friendly?";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530596 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)12:19:17")

they've torrented it"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530597 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)12:19:56")

"Anyone here convinced their college to get a 3d printer? What did you do to convince them?
I want to try 3d printing but it's too expensive for me. Thinking of convincing my dean to get one"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530598 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)12:20:44" && image=="raf,750x1000,075,t,fafafa-ca443f4786.u3.jpg")

if I buy a Creality and my house burns down I'm gonna find you motherfuckers."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530600 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)12:22:53")

just don't place any fuel in close vicinity of the printer and you'll be fine
stop being a pussy"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530603 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)12:24:53")

"I actually bought it.
because I had a project where I needed the variable settings feature of S3d. Its ok but its not worth money.

If it was free it still wouldn't be the best slicer out there. I have to go back to slic3r for many things and it does a fantastic job. Even if s3d did the best slicing which it doesnt, its often VERY unintuitive to use and convoluted and many ways. I still use it most of the time cause I bought it and I have stockholm syndrome, but its pretty frustrating when the only solution to >>1530592 that the S3D team has is to do more infill, more top layers, more perimeters, and more extrusion rate.

I think slic3r prusa edition is the sweet spot between free cost and powerful features and ease of use"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530605 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)12:27:27")

Meh it's not that much better to be worth dumping PLA over.
They won't do it unless someone gives them the funds, schools are usually short of money even for books and if they aren't they would have had 3D printers already. I'm sure you can find a DIY kit for under $400"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530606 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)12:27:34")

Same here, altough I preffer regular slic3r over the prusa variant."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530609 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)12:30:22")

honestly maybe Curaengine unless you've actually got a Prusa"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530610 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)12:30:27")

I hear this type of stuff a lot, getting your school or library or makerspace whatever to get one so you can use theirs.

I think it comes from a mindset that these machines are expensive and industrial. they don't have to be. Your school will try to buy a machine thats WAY more expensive than it gets used for. Its gonna have a fucking hepa filter and proprietary filament, and a mandatory slicer hooked up to a station next to the printer. A creality can be had for under $200. Its like asking your local college to invest in a cheap laser printer so you can use it to make a few prints."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530614 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)12:33:51")

I'm a uh third worlder so that's like a month's salary. The college is definitely more loaded than me.
To be more specific, I'm in the school of aeronautics. Should I tell him we could rapidly prototype aerofoil shapes? Or something like 3d printing rocket models?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530615 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)12:33:51")

Can you reslice it with about 10% more infill and show it again?

Simplify isn't really user friendly, it's actually a bit more high-end. Userface is more clumsy than Cura, but it has more depth to it than most people use in Cura. Everybody torrents it anyways, unless you own a business. It only enters my workflow if I don't have the particular printer set up in Cura, or when Cura is giving me particular problems with a print that I might be able to solve with some of S3D's settings.

Treat it like it should be treated: it's high temperature chinkshit. Make sure that if it catches on fire, your house isn't going down with it.

>I think slic3r prusa edition is the sweet spot between free cost and powerful features and ease of use
Nope, Cura is the best slicer right now, with an interface and settings that my grandma could use, and than once you check all the setting visibility checkmarks, depth that rivals Simplify and Slic3r both."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530617 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)12:34:03" && image=="Clipboard01.jpg")

"Newfag question:
I have a bunch of small objects to print. Do I lose quality when I print them all on one build plate in one go? (vase mode wouldnt be possible right?)
Or is there no difference to printing them in individual solo runs?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530618 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)12:36:19")

My school alread has 10 Ultimakers and I'm going to repeat what >>1530610 said: schools go for the high end models that work reliably. Remember, the most lethal thing to a functioning 3D-printer, is a student, so you want models that can take a beating, return their investment with a lot of reliable print hours, and don't burn down the faculty.
If you want to start printing, it only takes ~300 USD for a good setup right now, or you could just outsource. Stop expecting freebies ya filthy commie."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530619 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)12:36:55")

>Do I lose quality when I print them all on one build plate in one go?
No. Usually you gain quality since it results in more cooling time for each object"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530620 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)12:38:47" && image=="s3dtoplayers.png")

first pic was 20%, this is 30%
it would def come out better but still not perfect. In my opinion the only part of the top layer that should really be sacrificed much by infill percentage is the very corners, because a right angle isn't going to bridge an infill pocket.

I'll have to give cura another try. I haven't used it since the old version 15.xx"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530621 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)12:39:36")

Cura already has great print profiles for the Prusa that work right out of the box, and it has more deapth than Slic3r Prusa edition.

>Should I tell him we could rapidly prototype aerofoil shapes?
3D printing does not produce smooth objects that can be used for aerodynamic testing."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530623 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)12:42:44")


Noted, but I don't think he knows much about 3dp to choose a printer. Will probably ask us to choose one.
Will probably go with the creality one"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530624 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)12:42:57")

you could try asking local influential people and wealthy intelligent people to invest in their community by donating an FDM machine to the local engineering and aeronautics department.

I don't know what machines are available in your area, but you could show them something like a lulzbot or prusa and explain how a relatively small investment could inject a lot of potential for intellectual research and development in their local community"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530625 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)12:43:11")

if you are in aeronautics school surely they already run workshops making aerofoils out of balsa wood/spruce? But yeah if the shape is complex like an elliptical or flying wing a 3D printer could be useful. Sure, tell them and include examples of other schools using 3D printing
I found that when printing multiple objects simultaneously I got "stringing" from the nozzle.
I will be asleep!!"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530626 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)12:45:43")


He's the guy who invented the airbrush nozzle adapter in the first place..."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530628 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)12:47:49")

>Do I lose quality when I print them all on one build plate in one go?
Yes, you are very likely to have strings between various objects that need to be cleaned up. Consider using ''one at a time'' mode if your slicers has one (please post your slicer).

Only true if the objects are too small, and you could reduce layer time for that.

I'm going to go out on a limb here and say that the ~3mm thick sides of the print are interfering with those side layers, which is causing the slicer to not make two outlines around the local top layer. If you're using a 0.8mm nozzle and that sidewall is indeed 3mm, 4 lines (3.2mm) is obviously bigger and it might do wierd things like this. Just for kicks, bump the wall count down to 1 and reslice, or double the wall size in your design."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530629 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)12:47:52")

This is true, it's why iMacs are so popular in schools."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530631 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)12:48:32")

Thanks, nice points
Also this general seems really fast by /diy/ standards!"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530632 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)12:49:18")

as long as your retraction settings are spot on and you trust your first layer adhesion, printing all together is preferred.

See if your slicer has something like "sequential printing" mode. So it will print each object individually, complete the first, then move to the second. but still do it all in one print.

you need to but bigger gaps between objects because you can crash the nozzle into stuff, but I find its the best way to print lots of small parts when there is a risk of one of the parts ruining all the others."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530633 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)12:49:21")

>I'll have to give cura another try. I haven't used it since the old version 15.xx
>Version: 15.04
>Release date: Apr 15, 2015

We're at 3.6 by now, it's been almost 4 years of progress."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530636 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)12:51:11")

This hits too close to home.
My engineering labs in a bad state but the library has 50 iMacs.
Atmost 10 people (me included) use them."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530643 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)12:55:46" && image=="C13133D075E645A1ADDE34E93EE451B9.jpg")

>>Do I lose quality when I print them all on one build plate in one go?
>Yes, you are very likely to have strings between various objects that need to be cleaned up. Consider using ''one at a time'' mode if your slicers has one (please post your slicer).

Thats what I thought too. But is the slicer smart enough to prevent collisions with existing objects on the build plate? This would obviously only work to some degree because the axis' would get in the way sooner or later right?
I'm aiming for Cura as a beginner.

I havent got my printer yet because retard me picked "railway shipping". This is an actual train going from China through Kazakhstan through Russia to Europe and its taking more than 5 weeks now."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530646 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)13:00:10")

Cura automatically does this. You'll see a grey area on the buildplate around one object, and you can't place other objects in this area or it won't even begin slicing. Note that this can only be done with small models, roughly up to 50mm high, because it will also automatically reduce the build volume height once you select ''one at a time'', to prevent collisions between parts and printer."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530647 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)13:01:12")

>Not using local warehouses in Germany/Spain etc.
Where do you even live for it to take so damn long?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530651 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)13:03:45")

>This would obviously only work to some degree because the axis' would get in the way sooner or later right?
Are you seriously this dumb?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530652 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)13:04:02")

Thanks, will try

Germany. Euro warehouses weren't available or were significantly more expensive. (Gearbest)"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530653 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)13:05:40")

Simplify3d asks you to measure your extruder so you can set the clearence distance yourself.

the slicer does not know how big your hot end setup is, so it cannot help you prevent crashes unless you input that data yourself. You are generally safe printing a few short parts in opposite corners of the bed, I find that its generally safe to print objects under 1cm in height about 4-5cm's away from each other. the taller the parts get the more dangerous it gets because your hot end gets wider and wider the higher it goes.

Its true the axis will get in the way if they're too tall. Simplify3d has a sweet feature for sequential printing in that you can set a height to switch parts at. so you could conceivably sequentially print two large statues, but it'll do two centimeters in height at a time before switching, effectively reducing your stringing by a huge degree, but still not completing either part till both are nearly complete."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530661 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)13:11:03")

its not a dumb question. If you knew the gantry would stay clear of the first part while printing the second, you could printer higher than your rods or whatever

for instance on my i3 style prusa printer, you could sequentially print a large object near the front of the bed first, then move to the back of the bed and print the final object back there, so the xaxis never did crash into the large object on the front of the bed

obviously this becomes somewhat risky."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530662 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)13:11:08")

What printer?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530663 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)13:12:47")

Ender 3"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530664 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)13:14:44")

"I don't have a level and can't obtain one today. Can I level my heat bed using a cup of water with a line of tape? Can I level my bed without a level tool? I have everything done except this, and adjusting the nozzle to be closer to the bed (because when i tighten it I imagine it will be even further away).";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530667 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)13:17:35")

the bed doesn't actually need to be "level"
it needs to be parallel to the movement of the x and y axis.

the best way to do it without any tools is to simply eyeball it while your nozzle is in the homeing position, then move your hot end manually around and try to get a consistent looking first layer gap for the entire bed.
at that point you can start extruding plastic and adjusting the bed while its running to really dial it in.

you don't need to "level" anything"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530671 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)13:20:38" && image=="maxresdefault[1].jpg")

it needs to look something like this at zheight=0 for the entire surface of the bed. it helps to use a flashlight shining behind the nozzle to see the gap

in my opinion, this picture is actually a bit too low, but by just a few microns. this would print fine"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530673 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)13:21:18")

For scheisse's sake anon: >>1529032
Right now the regular Ender 3 costs 183 EUR when shipped from China, and 174 EUR shipping from Germany. Don't just look at one chinkshit website and think you've gotten a cheap enough deal, look at them all.

Leveling the bed isn't about making the bed horizontal, it's about making the bed parallel to the machines axis in X and Y direction, which should make Z perpendicular to the bed.
Most printers come with a leveling wizard, which means you'll be setting the distance between the nozzle and the bed at the four corners of the bed. You need to make sure this is roughly 0.1-0.2mm depending on your setup, for which you could use precision feeler gauges - or a sheet of paper. The latter will get you close enough for a first print.

You could put the entire printer at 5-10 degree angle to a ''level'' table, as long as the bed is level to the axis' it should still print. Some printers can print upside down if you do it all right."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530675 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)13:21:40")

Thanks anons; on it."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530684 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)13:31:07" && image=="IMG_7210[1].jpg")


if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530703 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)13:57:09")

I payed 155€ from China. 20€ less."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530733 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)14:55:01")

>postmodern "art""

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530735 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)14:57:51" && image=="steve_jobs_illuminati.jpg")

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530744 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)15:05:56")

Anycubic Kossel"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530749 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)15:19:23")


if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530752 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)15:21:53")

"I've been looking at the Anet kits, but I had to assemble one of those for a school project and I hate their guts for now. I then considered an Ender 3, but those don't come with autoleveling - and I can't be arsed to retrofit autoleveling and deal with the software hassles. I'm not afraid to buy chinkshit, or deal with some of it's hassles though. Which of the following sounds like the best deal:

Creality CR-10S Pro (566 EUR shipped)
>Pros: Basically a huge Ender 3
>Cons: Holy shit that price

Creality Ender 4 (275-ish EUR)
>Pros: All the features I want, reasonably cheap
>Cons: new (for both me and Creality) H-bot design, currently on backorder, no glass or magnetic buildplate

Anycubic Chiron (435 EUR shipped_
>Pros: Basically a CR-10S4 Pro, but with more features
>Cons: Can hardly find any. A bit more expensive than the others.

Zonestar Z8 (393 EUR shipped)
>Pros: Fancy triple extruder
>Cons: How do you clear a jammed hotend on a triple extruder? Never heard of the brand untill I started doing research.

I've looked at dozens of printers on Aliexpress etc. but at this point I don't know who is chinking who anymore. Any other printers I should check out? Currently, I think the Chiron would be my best bet.

My bad, posted before I had everything typed out.
I hate delta printers with a vengeance, and it's only got an aluminium bed, I'd prefer glass or those fancy new removable magnetic ones."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530759 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)15:33:06")

>I hate delta printers with a vengeance
Why? They're great value.

>and it's only got an aluminium bed, I'd prefer glass or those fancy new removable magnetic ones.
Nothing stops you from clamping a 10$ glass bed on it.
Also glass sucks."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530771 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)15:50:36" && image=="Halfhearted attempt at humor.jpg")

Because the one delta printer I've had to work on as a school project has given me consistent trouble for over a year now. That may have had to do with the size of it (1000mm round*1450mm height), shoddy construction by the manufacturer, three years of maintenance by students (i.e., none), a lack of budget, poor upgrade decisions and my own crippling mental disability, but I hate them. It's the most convoluted, retarded way of moving an object in three axis and requires a careful balance act between head weight and extrusion, which means you almost have to do a bowden, which sucks on such a huge printer because I probably have the longest tube ITT, coming in at 1550mm. Even if the delta concept is good, so is the concept of IPA beer. I tried one of those once, it sucked, I prefer not to try them again.

>Nothing stops you from clamping a 10$ glass bed on it.
Round glass is hard to find and relatively expensive.
>Glass sucks
Fite me 1v1, I've almost exclusively used glass on our UM2's and I can get pretty much anything to stick except your mom (Z screw couldn't deal)."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530780 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)16:00:48")

Well, I can't speak for your experiences.
>which means you almost have to do a bowden
Yeah, that is indeed a drawback of deltas.
But unless you need to do nylon you can make it work (at least on a reasonable sized delta).

>Round glass is hard to find and relatively expensive.
Took me 10 seconds

And if you can get everything to stick on glass you can get it to stick on aluminium as well. But even if you end up putting a glass bed on top, the aluminium bed is still good because it distributes the heat more uniformly."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530789 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)16:12:55")

>at least on a reasonable sized delta
That might have been the problem, it's an unreasonably sized one. If it were cartesian you could have gotten away with the weight of a direct extruder. Even on PLA/PETG we need to dial in 6-7mm of retraction (or just put it on 0 and deal with the stringiness), we're not even going to bother with flexibles. What the hell are you going to print that needs to flexible and that big, anyway?

Yeah, yeah, you can find it online then. I'll go off on a mildly related tangent here: two years ago the student responsible for our printer was printing with PET (as we usually do) and forgot to apply hairspray on a print with about a 400*400mm surface area. It stuck so damn hard, he used a chisel to breka it free - which resulted in chips of 1-2mm thick breaking away from the buildplate. Without any budget, I had to print with a buildplate like that for a year untill my instructor finally decided to purchase a new one for 450 EUR, it took him two weeks to find one, and then it took four weeks for the thing to arrive, I'd classify that as hard to find and relatively expensive. And no, autoleveling doesn't fix 2mm deep holes in your buildplate.

You don't just slap on the glass plate, just like on the UM2 you should use an aluminium panel to distribute the heat, with a glass plate on top. Adds a bit of heatup times but gives much more consistent results. We ditched our 3mm aluminium plate on the huge delta though, because A. it took 25-30 minutes to heat up and B. it curled up about 4-5mm on the sides if you heat it to 80 degrees. And no, autoleveling doesn't solve the edge of you buildplate curling up by about 2-3mm at 60 degrees."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530792 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)16:17:44")

>two years ago the student responsible for our printer was printing with PET (as we usually do) and forgot to apply hairspray on a print with about a 400*400mm surface area. It stuck so damn hard, he used a chisel to breka it free - which resulted in chips of 1-2mm thick breaking away from the buildplate
That's what you get for using glass."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530794 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)16:22:32")

>That's what you get for using an idiot to operate your 38K EUR printer

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530798 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)16:25:39")

honestly if a machine costs 38k it ought to have a print platform that doesn't require fucking hairspray to function lmao"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530799 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)16:26:40")

couldn't you just have flipped the buildplate around? it's just glass ain't it?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530800 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)16:29:07")

If a printer costs 38K it ought to work, have customer support standby 9 to 5, and come with a damn good warranty.

That trick would only work once - but in their infinite wisdom, the designers used a mirror. Pros about well-designed mirrors: they are very, very straight. Cons about mirrors: they have a coating on the backside."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530804 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)16:32:46")

but how'd the replacement cost 450€ tho?
that sounds like way too much for a damn 400x400 mirror"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530808 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)16:37:59")

It's not 400*400, it's a 1000mm round, 6mm thick piece of hardened glass obtaining through our schools purchasing department - I'm not buying another damn mirror. It's big, it needs specialised cutting according to the guy who brought it, and it gets marked up several times because all of the reasons mentioned by these anons: >>1530618 & >>1530610"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530810 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)16:43:20")

"Man, a 38k delta should be a ridiculous monster for that price.

The CNC shop in my uni built a delta like that, massive steel construction with big hydraulic arms to move the effector."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530832 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)17:26:46")

>not establishing guidelines for printing with every material
come on not that hard. A checklist before printing is very useful"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530851 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)17:57:10")

"Has anybody given this trick a go yet:

it's only for the bottom layer but the result is pretty rad"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530854 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)18:03:14")

This. Glass heatbeds suck."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530856 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)18:05:47")

may as well just stencil it on."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530857 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)18:06:23")

"If you're looking to cast plastic parts at home (out of epoxy resin or melted ABS), what's the best option?
>cut styrofoam layers, assemble, put in sand, make aluminum mold via lost foam, clean it up
>3d print desired mold, put in sand, make aluminum mold via lost foam, clean it up
>3d print mold for the mold, make it in modeling clay, bake in oven
In other words, would 3d printed plastic melt easily enough, and would ceramic or aluminum molds be preferable?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530864 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)18:17:35")


Cutting up a stencil, sticking it on, priming and painting... Sounds like a lot more work. Even if you already own a cutting plotter getting small chunklets on (if the design has them) is a pain in the ass."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530868 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)18:22:02")

How about printing the image with a laser printer, and then printing on top of it?
It should be hot enough for the toner to fuse with the plastic that gets printed on top."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530904 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)18:56:59")

Thats not the correct type of glass if it chips like that. Use tempered glass before someone loses an eye or bleeds out."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530919 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)19:05:57")

>order printed positive from ShapeWays
>make a silicone mold
>cast it in resin

It would be a nightmare trying to get the cast part out of a metal mold. Usually you need ejector pins for that and 1% draft angle on the walls."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530922 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)19:07:11")

only PLA melts good. google "lost PLA casting""

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530925 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)19:08:35")

I tried to convince one my my university professors to build some with the laser cutter they already have, instead she just bought one that costs like 3000 euros and prints like garbage because they can't be bothered to buy new filament. At least it runs Repetier and not some closed source firmware."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530928 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)19:09:53")

Everything is water cooled in it, even electronics"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530932 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)19:13:20")

Yeah, no problem printing ejector pins and draft angle. Would silicon produce good parts? It really doesn't feel that way."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530933 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)19:14:20")

>only PLA melts good
they make specialty support filaments that are specifically designed to dissolve cleanly"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530937 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)19:16:33")

As others have said schools don't like DIY shit because they believe it unreliable hence always go for the most expensive model."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530943 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)19:22:52")

Hey, what about this?
>3d print mold for the mold
>melt a candle down into it
>pour molten aluminum on this
Would it melt too fast?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530951 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)19:30:45")

Yeah, it was too much effort though, and the quality will always be a bit spotty. only a layer or two of each color, then a solid color behind it, the color separation isn't perfect and its just a lot of work.

I do something similar quite often though, and that is pick a decorative bottom infill pattern, and pause for a color change in the middle of the bottom most layer, you can get some sweet color patterned octagonal or circular infills and it looks tight.

I've taken some"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530958 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)19:39:10")

Making a positive silicone mold and then casting with resin is by far the easiest way to do this, I have done it multiple times.

You can even 3D print your mother mold along with the part if your brain is wrinkly enough"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530959 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)19:40:20")

Can't it warp?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530973 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)19:50:15" && image=="1536849332103.jpg")

What part, the print or the silicone?

Sure, the silicone will warp if you don't have a mother mold made of something like fiberglass or you can just make the silicone thick enough to hold its shape"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1530983 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)19:59:09")

"These TTS holders are pretty cool."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531011 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)20:22:53")

are they supposed to be made for a cnc machine to grab toolheads from? or for a person to grab toolheads from?

They look really interesting. I'd love a 3d printer that could do that with a second hot end with a different nozzle size. I've made several plaques with lots of detailed text on them and its super easy with two different sized nozzles."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531019 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)20:32:44")

for a person, it's just to store the small tool holders for my tormach, I will probably mount them to a piece of wood and put it in my toolbox drawer.

3 hour print time on my ender 3 though, at 20% infill. Can I get away with increasing feedrate beyond 60mm/s?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531030 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)20:43:54" && image=="hmmmm.png")

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531056 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)21:19:33" && image=="rs3_71[1].jpg")

>Would silicon produce good parts? It really doesn't feel that way.
The silicone can reproduce whatever you use for the master. The grade and hardness of the silicone will determine its useful life (i.e. how many parts you can cast in it before it starts to rip)."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531059 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)21:22:29" && image=="rs3_77[1].jpg")

The quality and accuracy of the resulting parts will depend heavily on the resin system used, the stability of your molds, and whether or not you cast them under pressure. Using a pressure part is GREAT, especially if you intend to cast any clear parts, or parts with higher durometer ratings. The pressure helps to crush any bubbles in the resin mixture down to a fraction so tiny that they are imperceptible. It also allows the resin to be shoved into areas of the mold that it would have trouble filling as a result of surface tension or air entrapment."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531061 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)21:25:09")

>so you want models that can take a beating, return their investment with a lot of reliable print hours

>implying school administrators or faculty can effectively choose a reliable 3d printer"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531062 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)21:27:35")

Ill have to make molds soon for a product.

The harder the silicone the more part i can produce without ripping?
What pressures are we talking about?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531063 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)21:33:54")

just tell him to buy a markforged for around $3,500 that deposits fiber reinforcement in the prints"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531090 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)22:42:56")

Yeah, but now I get new kinds of exciting issues, like thin walls not collapsing but just kind of wobbling around.
Also, how do I make the mother mold?
No, I want a mold that works.
How many, with regular silicone you buy from the store? Like dozens or hundreds?
Can't you just use a vibrator, like the Japanese guy?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531105 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)23:12:51")

"Im about to buy my first 3d printer talk me out of it"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531116 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)23:26:02" && image=="1531460732571.jpg")

well uhh, bowden a shit, for one"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531124 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)23:33:42")

Well first off, i have the same printer, its currently printing a spool holder for my solder, as soon as I bought mine, I bought stuff to "upgrade" it from day one

>glass bed
>capricorn tubing

Everything else I 3d printed.

I am liking my printing results, but now I am trying to make them better, and get rid of those little zits that show up when its printing something with a curve in it."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531127 && dateTime=="01/05/19(Sat)23:39:00")

I have one but I almost never use it. I am actually printing some TTS holders at the moment though.

I'm sure it takes a good bit to get it performing the way you want."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531144 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)00:41:02")

I have one, as well as two prusas. the prusas are my go-to's but the ender is not a bad printer at all, It was GREAT for the time that it came out but now its just good for the price point, there are many others just like it around the same price.
I'd be seriously considering one of those $200-300 geeetechs with the color mixing extruder, that would be a really neat feature."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531153 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)01:01:45")

"Figured this would be the best place to ask. Are chink 4d printers safe and reliable?";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531167 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)01:29:39")

we already had this discussion, scroll up"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531186 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)02:28:40")

No, they'll burn your house down! Instead just buy my printer when it's ready."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531191 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)02:44:50")

Stop with this shitty meme, it stopped being funny ages ago"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531207 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)03:38:44")

I dont see any discussion on chink 4d printers."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531215 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)04:22:19")

Does capricorn tubing actually do something?
They advertise it like an audiophile product."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531221 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)04:43:03" && image=="25403.jpg")

"What do yall think of my finished bulbasaur?";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531223 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)04:49:18")

That depends, am i suppose to see polygons?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531225 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)04:51:20")

What soft womanly hands you have there anon."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531290 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)09:19:40")

"Who makes the best price/performance filament?";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531303 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)10:08:08")

What are you making, anon?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531306 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)10:19:33")

I installed it before I even printed. I didn't do a comparison between the stock tubing, but I never had any problems..."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531342 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)11:24:26")

It's just PTFE dyed blue. You can order PTFE in any color and internal/external diameter you want."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531366 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)11:57:42")

I don't care about the color, I care if filament slides better through it than through the usual chink tubes."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531368 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)12:01:42" && image=="rs3_85[1].jpg")

>The harder the silicone the more part i can produce without ripping?
Elongation before breakage and designing your parts or molds so that they see less stress when the parts are removed will help prolong the life of the molds.
>What pressures are we talking about?
40 psi max. You can convert harbor freight pressure pots easily for this purpose by just cutting the snorkel off the inside. Or add a regulator and pressure gauge to a pressure canning pot.

>How many, with regular silicone you buy from the store? Like dozens or hundreds?
50 to 150 pours depending on a lot of factors.
>Can't you just use a vibrator, like the Japanese guy?
Again, it's very dependent upon the resin and whether you are casting opaque parts or clear ones. The resin system I was using produced a lot of off-gassing bubbles while curing so pressure casting was pretty much essential to producing parts that were fully solid. Longer cure time resins will have less of an issue with bubbles because they stay viscous longer which gives them more time to creep out.
>What are you making, anon?
I started my Nerf project under the premise of casting all or most of the parts. But after making ten of them through the casting process it became clear that the parts were too large, too complex, and required too many through-holes for casting to make sense. I abandoned casting in favor of 3D printing everything.

I have since used pressure-casting in a wide variety of projects at work though. Mostly with Alumilites Performance 80D (fast cure, quite strong) and Buehler EpoxyCure 2 (clear SLOW cure, low viscosity)

>Who makes the best price/performance filament?
I would vote Ziro, especially if you like LOUD colors."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531370 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)12:05:56")

Im in Yurop, we dont have horrorfreight.
I have access to an autoclave tho.

Is it common to have multiple cavities in a silicon mold like in injection molding?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531372 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)12:09:49")

Why though? What's wrong with aluminum, ABS, ceramic, plaster, or tin/lead molds?
All these are very easy to make and more robust."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531379 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)12:21:56" && image=="rs3_65[1].jpg")

>I have access to an autoclave tho.
Anything that can hold regulated pressure will work fine.
>Is it common to have multiple cavities in a silicon mold like in injection molding?
Vent channels, overflow, and extra head on your fill port are all good practices. Multiple cavities (or multiple molds) are a good idea simply because there's a minimum volume of resin you can mix up accurately and that minimum may be more than enough to cast multiples of the same part.

To reduce time required for pouring I was using open-faced molds with polypropylene top plates. And because I had originally intended to spin-cast the parts but that proved to be too much of a headache to do correctly without making a huge mess. [Embed]
>Why though?
The cast parts needed to be sanded to remove flashing and the holes often had to be drilled to size. That's too involved for something I was trying to produce in quantity.
>What's wrong with aluminum, ABS, ceramic, plaster, or tin/lead molds?
Cost mainly. And those molds are all rigid so your part geometry has to be compatible with them. Flexible molds offer you more variety in shape and the mold can flex when the part is being removed.
>All these are very easy to make and more robust.
They have to be machined, or printed. I have used printed molds and you basically have to design them to be destroyed after a single use to remove the part, OR you have to use some kind of post-processing step like acetone vapor smoothing or body filler if you want the part to remove easily after curing."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531380 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)12:25:32")

>That's too involved for something I was trying to produce in quantity.
You're mass producing the molds?
>Cost mainly. And those molds are all rigid so your part geometry has to be compatible with them. Flexible molds offer you more variety in shape and the mold can flex when the part is being removed.
Why would they be expensive? None of the materials are hugely expensive by themselves.
How do you mean? Are you saying you could mold something which isn't "2.5 dimensional" with a silicon mold?
Also, a silicon mold seems to me like it would make it impossible to make a mold of more than two parts, like if you have one from each side and one coming in from the top to form some kind of hole. That's not possible without rigid molds.
>I have used printed molds and you basically have to design them to be destroyed after a single use to remove the part, OR you have to use some kind of post-processing step like acetone vapor smoothing or body filler if you want the part to remove easily after curing.
What about aligning the layer lines so they're parallel with the direction you put together the mold in?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531390 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)12:35:54" && image=="rs3_78[1].jpg")

>You're mass producing the molds?
No, the cast parts even after casting were labor-intensive. And the casting process too is labor-intensive. And it has a certain part failure rate even after you invest labor.
>None of the materials are hugely expensive by themselves.
The time and effort required to machine the mold cavity to produce the part shapes you want is way more expensive than the material cost of silicone.
>How do you mean? Are you saying you could mold something which isn't "2.5 dimensional" with a silicon mold?
You can mold things where the mold has to wrap around a corner. In a rigid mold that would make it impossible to removed the part after casting, but a flexible mold can be stretched out of the way.
>Also, a silicon mold seems to me like it would make it impossible to make a mold of more than two parts
Watch the video I linked in the other post. You can mix and match materials for 2-part and 3-part molds if you need better tolerances in certain areas. I was also using silicone tubing with wire inside of it in order to cast parts with through holes that could be removed after curing.
>What about aligning the layer lines so they're parallel with the direction you put together the mold in?
May or may not work. The larger issue is the added friction that the rough surface of the print adds to the mold. Something you can overcome with excessive mold-release, making the mold intentionally fragile so it can break free, or multi-part with registration keys or weakly glued together so they can be split afterwards.

The other thing to be slightly wary of with mold material is that larger volume pours can create a lot of heat with most resins as they get really hot during the curing process. So some sizes of parts will distort ABS or PLA molds if they're not reinforced.

Casting has a very steep learning curve."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531395 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)12:49:33")

>You can mold things where the mold has to wrap around a corner. In a rigid mold that would make it impossible to removed the part after casting, but a flexible mold can be stretched out of the way.
Oh, I didn't know. But that's not a concern. I think it would make for a very flimsy mold anyway.
>You can mix and match materials for 2-part and 3-part molds if you need better tolerances in certain areas.
That's not what I mean. You can put parts in a mother mold, but you can't hang them from it (or, well, you can, but it doesn't add much strength)
>multi-part with registration keys
>weakly glued together so they can be split afterwards
Isn't that how you'd usually do it? I don't see any other (stable) way of doing it."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531414 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)13:13:17")

>I would vote Ziro, especially if you like LOUD colors.

I really just want something cheap I can learn with and wont feel bad if I mess up a print"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531423 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)13:20:12")

Different guy, different set of questions: any tips or warnings you would have for someone interested in making their own Nerf-style gun? I know there's a few different types (air, spring, plus the ones for the disk/ball launchers) but am curious if there's anything you've run into so far about the design of the firing mechanism(s) themselves that you could see being a big obstacle to someone new to making them. Would love to get your input on this, your stuff's pretty cool and you seem to have gotten making new guns down to a science."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531450 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)14:04:41" && image=="bow2_001[1].jpg")

>any tips or warnings you would have for someone interested in making their own Nerf-style gun? I know there's a few different types (air, spring, plus the ones for the disk/ball launchers) but am curious if there's anything you've run into so far about the design of the firing mechanism(s) themselves that you could see being a big obstacle to someone new to making them.
Design around the constraints of the tools you have access to. There's a lot of information and design work to research in the Nerfhaven forums. Most of which is collated here.
>Would love to get your input on this, your stuff's pretty cool and you seem to have gotten making new guns down to a science.
I've been in the hobby since 2006 and have been making homemades since then."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531451 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)14:05:12")

For the start just use some regular, well known filament brand.
This is to eliminate the filament for an error source.
Once your comfortable with 3d printing you can switch to cheap ass ebay filament etc.

Also don't print huge stuff in the beginning."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531454 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)14:10:38")

Nice paint job."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531465 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)14:18:29" && image=="1541138403419.jpg")

"Why is this happening with my prints? Which setting do I need to change to fix this that I keep missing? It leads to really bad ghosting and that movement pattern can't be good for my linear rails.";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531488 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)14:55:55")

If you buy it from the actual original company that invented it, which the name eludes me right now, its 100% USDA certified food safe if you use a non-brass/lead nozzle
Anything else is, including petg with a brass nozzle, is technically toxic
[spoiler]mainly because of the lead content from your nozzle[/spoiler]"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531495 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)15:14:00")

Ive only been using Sunlu Pro lately, good price, supposedly slightly stronger than regular PLA, and all their colors have that silk sheen to them."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531514 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)15:50:25" && image=="images (4).jpg")

"Are all digital calipers created equal?
I've found some listings in my country selling them for a little over 10 dollars.

I'd use Amazon but DHL is too retarded to deal with customs."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531523 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)16:02:35")

>Are all digital calipers created equal?
of course
precision instruments never differ in quality"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531528 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)16:09:26")

"To the guy who built the dehumidifier to dry filaments. How well does it actually work?";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531554 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)16:36:25")


From what i've seen they're all "good enough", and that if you really want high precision you're better off using a micrometer. I use old-fashioned vernier calipers because they're just as accurate and don't need batteries. Check your local listings - the model in your pic is a popular cheap import you're likely to find for 10$ at a hardware store."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531563 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)16:55:37")

My favorite is dial calipers - same as vernier for the reason mentioned above, but a touch easier to read"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531566 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)17:01:36" && image=="CoPrainDotGif.jpg")


8 bit quality photos.


Here faggots. I made a meme"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531569 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)17:03:21")

I love old shit. My daily is a 74 olds"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531570 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)17:04:01")

Fuck the truck anon. Build a limo!"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531573 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)17:13:20")

Fuck it. I want my house to burn. It's a shithole. I'm setting up a chink shit printig lab in every room"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531616 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)18:35:41")

You answered with the pic man. CAT boots are the most comfortable imo. They are great for workshop shit but not walking 100 miles"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531620 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)18:41:04")

Did you build this? What's the print size?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531621 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)18:42:56")

NO U!"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531622 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)18:46:06")

>take 3d printer
>take cardboard box
>buy nitrogen
>fill cardboard box with nitrogen
>use lighter to test
>print your stuff, nothing can go wrong"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531623 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)18:46:19")

LOL! That sucks anon"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531627 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)18:53:51")

Nah man. Youtube how to build aquariums and shit. Grab a glass cutter and a suction cup with a swivel"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531629 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)18:55:02")

And it had better give blowjays. 38k. The fuck."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531632 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)19:00:28")

Thank you they are actually full of callouses though"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531634 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)19:01:17")

I would set it in a little plaster"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531693 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)20:57:05")

The fact that theres a website that allows you to choose railway shipping surprises me more than you accidentally picking it."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531736 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)22:04:38" && image=="1542213932452.png")

"is there a standardised filament spool size?
thinking of designing and printing some nifty little airtight cases for spools"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531740 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)22:06:16")

oh wait nvm, googled a bit and apparently the outer diameter is usually around 200mm and the width around 70mm"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531795 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)23:26:34" && image=="Prusa Mk3.jpg")

"So what's the opinion on the Prusa MK3 vs. the MK2S or MK2.5? I've heard that it's "bad" but not why specifically. Can't find any info that would lead me to believe so, but I've seen a lot of mentions of it - any truth behind them?";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531801 && dateTime=="01/06/19(Sun)23:46:41")

not worth the additional price i guess"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531825 && dateTime=="01/07/19(Mon)00:34:40" && image=="a9f4f1884ad1e31f08e6ae32c078f60f.png")

There we go.
It's basically just a circular box with a screw on top you throw your roll in and then you plug a bowden into that port there and feed the filament out.
That rectangular part there is a stand so you can either keep the container on its side or upright.
there are no bearings or anything in there, i'm relying on the plastic to plastic friction being low enough for smooth rolling of the spool.
The threads are kinda funny there since this is designed to be printed on the 210x250 bed of a Prusa and i couldn't fit the lid on without cutting bits off.
I'm hoping it'll be air tight if i just throw a bit of grease on the surface where the lid and the box touch."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531832 && dateTime=="01/07/19(Mon)00:44:48")

Sorta neat. You've got extra space at the corners; maybe make one of them into a pocket so you can stash a dessicant packet in there?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531833 && dateTime=="01/07/19(Mon)00:49:42")

I'm gonna be using silica gel beads so i'm not exactly sure if i can do that, i was thinking of just pouring some in there with the spool"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531843 && dateTime=="01/07/19(Mon)01:08:51" && image=="cd636b014b49b5ae8e894c42d8ad45ac.png")

"man computers are fucking amazing
bet you couldn't draw that shape on paper"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531870 && dateTime=="01/07/19(Mon)04:01:47")

Since you really shouldn't be using them to measure anything more accurately than 0.05mm/2thou, most of the budget ones are fine. You don't need that much more accuracy in 3D-printing anyways."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531871 && dateTime=="01/07/19(Mon)04:02:50")

>Cutting hardened glass round
I'd rather spend a bit more at a store then."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531877 && dateTime=="01/07/19(Mon)04:31:18")

Is cutting it round hard?
If so couldn't they just have done a decagon?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531878 && dateTime=="01/07/19(Mon)04:35:10")

You can't really cut glass after it got hardened"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531881 && dateTime=="01/07/19(Mon)04:38:01")

Accuracy of a caliper is about 0.2mm. (digital and analog)
If you have a good one which is well adjusted you miiiight get down to 0.1mm but thats it.

Don't get fooled by all the miraculous digits it shows."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531885 && dateTime=="01/07/19(Mon)04:54:03")

I see"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531947 && dateTime=="01/07/19(Mon)08:09:43")

"Anybody want to make a compilation for the next OP, better than the abomination than I made this time?";

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531949 && dateTime=="01/07/19(Mon)08:18:34")

Width and diameters varies a little, as does the center hole size."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531960 && dateTime=="01/07/19(Mon)08:33:17")

>Accuracy of a caliper is about 0.2mm.
Nope, 0.05mm is industry standard for regular calipers - if you know how to measure properly. 0.2mm is way too big, unless you mean 0.02mm, which is almost realistic on a 50mm caliper set - but why aren't you using a micrometer at that point?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531984 && dateTime=="01/07/19(Mon)09:02:12")

Nah, thats bs. You can't make repeatable measurments more precise than ~0.2 with a caliper. Even when they're advertised like this.

Yes, but I wouldn't know where I'd need a micrometer for 3D FDM."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1531987 && dateTime=="01/07/19(Mon)09:07:53")

Maybe you can't, but I can, and so can the guy who teaches measurement at our engineering uni. 0.05mm is possible, I don't know where you get your 0.2mm from, but some very accurate calipers can get down to 0.02mm if you have them adjusted to spec, and check them with gauge blocks. This includes any rotational error (kippfehler), which should not be present in properly adjusted calipers. If you need to be more accurate, get a micrometer - and yes, you might one of those if you're perfecting your extrusion rate, and it's absolutely necessary if you want to measure the fit of an axle/hole."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1532012 && dateTime=="01/07/19(Mon)09:55:38")

Fachhochschuchtel detected"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1532038 && dateTime=="01/07/19(Mon)10:43:46")

"Any reason I shouldn't buy this? 435 EUR for a CR-10S Pro with S4 build volume seems like a good deal."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1532051 && dateTime=="01/07/19(Mon)11:05:41" && image=="hereyouis.jpg")

>Anybody want to make a compilation for the next OP, better than the abomination than I made this time?"

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1532056 && dateTime=="01/07/19(Mon)11:14:32")

Thanks mate.

All aboard the new thread, I even got us some dubs:

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1532211 && dateTime=="01/07/19(Mon)15:34:59")

Get a firmware flashing kit, flash the firmware, turn on thermal runaway.

There, boom, 14 dollars for piece of mind."

if(Anonymous && title=="" && postNumber==1532213 && dateTime=="01/07/19(Mon)15:39:27")

What is your infill pattern set to?"