String fullTitle = 'undefined';
int postNumber = 2728649;
String image = '1714971900039971.jpg';
String date = '05/06/24(Mon)01:05:00';
String comment = 'It's been almost a year since the last climbing thread on /out/ died. The thread on /xs/ is overwhelmingly focused on gym climbing, so I'm making this attempt to revive the general. Help out by sharing trip reports, photos, advice, etc.
A place to talk about outdoor climbing in any aspect (trad, sport, bouldering, aid, alpine, etc).
Rock Climbing is a dangerous sport that can cause loss of life, limb, eyesight, or sanity.
Off-belay:
https://archived.moe/out/thread/261
https://archived.moe/out/thread/253
https://archived.moe/out/thread/249
/xs/ thread:
>>>/xs/196297
Adam Ondra sends world's hardest trad route Bon Voyage: https://youtu.be/ji4At78H5Ys'
'undefined';
'Mountain Project is a great resource for outdoor climbing
/
um
um/103989416/for-sale-for-free-want-to-buy' ;
>climbing areas near you
https://www.mountainproject.com/map
>regional forums
https://www.mountainproject.com/for
>used climbing gear
https://www.mountainproject.com/for
'Sup /out/. What do you think of the comparative efficacy of using a single-rope technique versus a half-rope technique in multi-pitch trad climbing, particularly in terms of mitigating rope drag and potential shearing in routes with significant traverses or zigzagging pitch layouts?';
'Is bouldering on basalt really hard everywhere, or is it just me?';
'>>2728674
I've never used them personally so can't give any advice. I know people do it successfully but rope management seems like it would be a nightmare.
>>2728819
This has also been my experience, but I've never tried bouldering on pillow basalt. I bet that would feel great.';
'>>2728674h/
;
Single rope is great due to less rope to manage, which is always fantastic. Double rope systems work great for wandery routes and routes with some long raps. I’d choose single rope over double ropes almost every time, but that doesn’t meant half ropes aren’t useful as fuck in certain applications. I see gritstone Brit’s rocking two ropes all the time. Definitely reduces drag a ton. Another good resource is this: https://people.bath.ac.uk/dac33/hig
Romped up the original route of Mescalito in red rock the other week and sport climbed in a limestone cave off the 93 last weekend. Feeling pretty good since a grade 3 AC separation in January. Looking forward to some time in Yosemite soon and trying my first real deal big wall. Any summer plans ya dirtbags?'
'>>2729451
>Looking forward to some time in Yosemite
Have you been there before? If yes, how busy is it and do you have to wait to climb or is there enough climbs that you don't have to if you hike further?';
'>>2729525
Yes, it’s busy enough but I haven’t done many routes there. I’ve done more in Tuolumne than in the valley. Just go and get on shit who gives a fuck if you get skunked or not. Sack up and simul those pitches or wait.
Also there’s plenty of climbs';
'>>2729451
Awesome man. Which cave is that? Sounds like hard climbing.
>first real deal big wall
Hell yeah. A dream very few will ever achieve... big walling still feels out-of-reach for me.
>summer plans
I'm hoping to do Exum Ridge with my brother. I'll have to get in better shape first just to keep up with the hiking. Also eyeing a guided ascent on Elephant's Perch.';
'>>2728649s-mt-washington-and-the-huntington-ravine-trail/' ;
It's not really a technical climb, but have any of you guys done Huntington Ravine? I wanna do it this summer but I'm not sure it's a good idea to do it solo and I'd also like to work on my 48.
https://sectionhiker.com/great-hike
'>>2729844
I haven't done the trail. From your link and from the summitpost page it looks like it would be very safe in good weather.';
'>>2729833
X-Cave. Cool routes out there and permadrawed so you can just slap your way up some overhung 12’s with no repercussions on your gear.
>elephants perch
The sawtooths are fucking beautiful man. A buddy and I tried to do finger of fate (post-earthquake) but the sawtooths got hit with a late season snowstorm so the approach was way snowy and we weren’t exactly ready for that. Didn’t even make it to the base but had a fun day getting lost around Hell Roaring Lake and napping on the shoreline. Pretty glad we didn’t make it actually as I’d be leading the whole show and my partner was more inexperienced than I had remembered. Probably got ourselves out of trouble inadvertently and still has me wanting to go back. We went and checked out Elephants Perch the next day and took the boat ride. Hope you send!!! I’d love to go back and try the perch and FoF. Have you been to City of Rocks yet? I’d also like to go check that out. Looks like a good time. Exum seems cool too — haven’t been to the Tetons either. Been mostly in Vegas climbing Red Rocks with some forays into the eastside Sierras and Tahoe over the last few years. College and workin’
Pic is “Isolation Canyon” in the middle of Arizona';
'>>2728674
as far as i know you are never supposed to climb trad with single rope, main reason being that you don't have bolts. cams are less reliable so you want to have 2 separate ropes with separate cams. as i write this i feel less confident that this is the correct reasoning though
another benefit of 2 half/twin ropes over a single rope is that you have a bigger total amount of rope available for rappels, or if you need to bail (one single 80m rope vs 2x60m half ropes for example). another minor benefit is weight management, each person can carry one of the 2 lighter half ropes';
'>>2730136
It's a good story. Sounds like it worked out for the best. I'm in Boise so I climb at City of Rocks every chance I get. It's everything it's cracked up to be, imo. I was there last weekend with some friends from the gym. We camped out in the snow and I brought my friend up his first multi-pitch. It's a 5.8 but the last pitch either traverses hard left into another 5.8 route or goes straight up into a 5.10c mixed trad/sport pitch to the top. I didn't read the route description closely enough and we almost had a real adventure... fortunately we noticed something was off after a few bolts and I was able to down climb.
I highly recommend the City. Feel free to hit me up if you ever find yourself out this way and need a partner. I'm definitely jealous of your location though... spent a week in Vegas recently and the sandstone is so good. Probably the best climbing of my life.
>>2730152
I think the point that you were aiming for is that with twin ropes the force of a fall will be often be distributed between two pieces, instead of everything on the top piece. This is more important for cams than bolts.';
'I've never really been into climbing but want to start. My local rock climbing gym closed a few months back. What's a good way to get into and learn the sport without a gym?';
'>>2728819
The basalt I've climbed has been the slipperiest crap rock I've ever had the displeasure of touching. Least favorite rock type hands down';
'>>2730200
>I'm in Boise so I climb at City of Rocks every chance I get. It's everything it's cracked up to be, imo.
How 2 get into climbing?
Im in boise too (caldwell actually) but i want to learn how to climb. So far everything i've done is nontechnical';
'>>2730897
I'm heading to Cape Disappointment this weekend to climb on the sea stacks (pic related). They're pillow basalt that formed underwater and have excellent climbing. Some of my favorite rock for sure. Vantage is columnar but has some good stuff... The Feathers in particular are awesome. I believe French's Dome in OR is a volcanic neck and that's pretty fun. There are many different types of basalt. I'll agree that most of it sucks though.
>>2730898
Most people will just meet a more experienced climber who shows them the ropes. Another option is the Gym to Crag course offered by The Commons climbing gym. This would also be a good way to meet other climbers. Lastly you could self-educate with YouTube videos, buy the gear you think you'll need, and convince your brother to belay you at the local crag. I wouldn't really recommend this.
If you want, I'm happy to meet up at The Commons sometime. This is a good place to learn because we can practice mock leading and lead belaying on the auto belays. Or we could go to the Black Cliffs and dive right in if that's more your style. I'm 29 and a very normal person. Discord 3rdOrder#8224.';
'>>2730767
See if there are any guided climbing courses in your area. These are great ways to learn. Or try the last option in this post >>2730903: Self-educate and convince someone to belay you. Pray for survival.';
'It's my first year of climbing outdoors and it started with winter in minnesota and the up. So far, It has been a struggle to get somebody to come out with me so I took up TRS with a grigri and basic ascender on a single strand. I picked up a copy of andy kirkpatricks book about the subject to hone is some more and am probably gonna move to using a trango vergo and a microascender, microtraxion if i can get a good deal or a ropeman 4. Any of you have some specific setups or TRS wisdom you can pass down?';
'I don't have any advice for you at all but I also climb in MN. What places did you hit so far?';
'>>2731401
Sandstone and winona for the ice fest it was throwing. Very cool area. I saw that a new amtrak line is going through winona so I will be spending some time over there again for the winter';
'>>2730903
>I'm heading to Cape Disappointment this weekend to climb on the sea stacks
Didn't see anyone out there today, i'm wondering if i could drop a line down from this cliff at Waikiki and TR it';
'>>2731489
Haha what's up you must have just missed me. I came through with the family around 2pm. They toproped the 5.9 and then I got a lot of fall practice on my project. Is that the cliff way out right by the water?';
'>>2731580
Yeah I got there around 12 just to scope it out since I didn't have a belayer and also to enjoy the beach. I wanted to climb the 5.5 magma slab but it was covered in kelp and barnacles at the start but I did get a good look at the anchor thats up there. That cliff is about a 5 min drive south of your picture';
'>>2728649
I can almost palpably get a sense of what it feels like for both feet to give out under me and then the sound of my chin smashing a hard, dense surface. I would hold my sore hands (from holding them to the harsh rock face as I slid) to my battered face and take some deep breaths while feeling very much in my mid-30s, and I would decide that it was a fun thing to try. I would check my teeth in the relfection of my phone screen.
The iron smell in my nose (the type you get from internal facial trauma) would be sharp in my onstrils as I went back to the car.
I am noit a rock-climber, but I can imagine myself being one for a few hours.';
'>>2728674
I tried half ropes on a meandering slab and it doubled the rope drag. I'm guessing that's why American trad is mostly on singles, because we have the slabs.';
'>>2731765
Ah yeah I've done that one. I'm no hardman but it's a pretty easy solo when it's dry; not even 5.5.
I've never been to Waikiki with a rope but I've always wanted to. That anchor looks simultaneously bomber and sketch as fuck.';
'Recently recleaned this near-forgotten problem to project. Super-nice rock, over the bulge with no real holds, just friction.';
'Fuck yeah, climbing general, it's been too long.
So far this season at the Gunks has been great. Been pushing grades way beyond what I'd hoped for and having a ton of fun cruising up routes that were a challenge just a couple years ago.
Looking forward to ticking off all the classic 5.8-5.9's and testing myself on the 10's where it really starts to get interesting.
Any NE anons want to get after it hit me up.';
'>>2732859
That's awesome man. Post some pictures! I've found that I'm actually climbing weaker than I was a couple of years ago. Not a huge surprise since life has been kicking my ass recently, but still disappointing. I'm gonna have to get back on the hangboard.';
}