'>other thread at page 5
kys op';

'Fucked up thing happened today.

>shove jacket, shoes, socks, bag into one of the cubbies in the bouldering gym
>do my thing for a few hours
>go back to cubbie to get my shit before leaving
>grab jacket, shoes, bag... wait
>...
>socks missing
>SOCKS MISSING?????
>look through cubbie, look in backpack, jacket, etc, everywhere
>only socks are still missing
>left the gym without my socks

There's no fucking way someone accidentally took my socks. There is none. Someone willingly went through my cubbie and took them. I'm repulsed and afraid.';

'>>189862
I went climbing for the first time today. I guess "bouldering" more properly. All of the rough spots on my hands from doing pull-ups/lifting peeled off. When will that get better? I had fun though.';

'>>189923
You will get flappers until your body learns not to produce massive calluses. No idea how long it heals, since my grew back pretty quickly even as an oldfag, but you gotta keep them maintained. Glad you had fun though';

'>>189921
Then who was phone???';

'>>189921
Are you male or female?';

'>>189921
And the name of the socks: Albert Einstein!
(did you wear them while climbing you animal?)';

'>>189933
The only thing that stopped me getting flappers on my palms and lowest pads was moving on to climbs that weren't all jugs.';

'How do you hold this? Theres a route that's all this and I can't even start. Had people demonstrate, still couldn't. Like, I can hold standing still, the moment I try to move or remove an arm i'm dpwn.

Maybe you got a secret tip. The route itself should be v3';

'>>190019
Better image';

'>>189923
if you're gonna be going climbing regularly, pick up one of those massage bars from lush and rub it on your hands when you get home. it'll feel so good and you'll heal 80% faster. stay moisturized.
>>189921
it was me :3
>>190023
cup your hand around it, duh. if you can't, then work on other rounder holds and strengthen your forearms. it's all about leaning into it correctly and being strong enough.';

'>>190010
you generally stop getting flappers when you get strong enough to not have to slap every hold and can just gently reach up to a jug and grab it carefully without pulling back on your skin
flappers are the first noob filter but you pretty much stop getting them once you can flash every V3 in a gym';

'>>190019
Pull on it in a way that doesn't move your wrist.';

'>>189862
It feels a bit lame and fake that climbing is done in indoors imitations of rock faces. I'm not saying go solo climb on a mountain but isn't nature climbing much more fun?';

'>>190080
You are obviously not a climber because a real climber wouldn't give a shit. Nobody conflates gym climbing with outdoor climbing, but they share similar techniques and you can get better at one by doing the other. Nature climbing IS more fun, but what about when it's winter and your crag is closed for 9 months? Do you just fuck off? Quit trying to gate-keep a sport you're not even a part of. Get the fuck out of /cg/ faggot.';

'>Thanks for tuning in climbers, but before we begin...
>SPONSORSHIP
>Could not have been giving you this content without RUNGNE
>Hey climbers hope you're enjoying the content but just wanted to give a shout out to [Insert overpriced brand clothing here]
>Damn, did you see that crimp guys? Looked really uncomfortable, but not as uncomfortable as your clothes are during the winter, [SPONSORSHIP BRAND] can help out with that
>So thankful that we got this first ascent together guys, btw [MAGNUS MITBØ SPONSORSHIP] wanted to present...
Why is this sport's media so fucking inundated with sponsorships and capitalistic crap? For a sport full of hippies, there's so much fucking marketing going on they won't shut the fuck up about it. Imagine if weightlifting tried to shove shit up your ass every five minutes.';

'saw a chalk bucket that looked almost like a bag, it was burgundy, almost like an old version of the mondo chalk bag but dark red
anyone have any idea what kinda bag it was, haven't seen the dude with it since';

'>>190111
seethe tranny, ClimbingStuff is based';

'got some skwamas today
if anyone has wide toe box, but tiny heel/ankle these shits built for you 45.5 sizing down to 43';

'Anyone tried to send hard but just gets burned out because your friends all climb significantly harder than you without even trying, and you know that despite the fact that you pour you're all into it, you can never close the gap? Yeah frens, I think I'm done with climbing. I was only in this to chase grades.';

'>>190116
Yup, started using them after my Veloce died.
Fantastic shoes, street shoes 42.5 and with (vegan) Skwamas I'm at 40 which is still a tiny bit too big.';

'My evolv kronos got hella stretched lately. So I went to REI and got free Scarpa Quintecs. Was that the right choice?';

'i like chunky chalk
i know i'm a sinner
just bought 6oz of bam bam from friction and dropped a bar of frank endo in my chalk bucket too';

'>>190202
Nice';

'>>190125
I wonder how much of a problem retention is for climbing gyms
seems like a lot of people plateau and then just decide to call it quits and do something else';

'>>190204
As someone who's started 2 months or something ago I can fully understand
(same person as this >>190019)

It fucking sucks once you start getting filtered by everything. I'm still early enough that most of the time the next day I go I finish a new route still but I can already see a bunch of stuff supposedly on my grade I can't even start on. Now it's the point where I'll see if I can tolerate this crap. At least my goal is more socialization based than actually becoming good at this but I can see something like 2 full sessions without a new route completed getting old real quick';

'>>189923
picrel
>>190019
>>190023
fat pinch should work
>>190080
efficiency and convenience, dumbass
>>190115
that fag wants 4chan's approval so bad I wouldn't be surprised if he's (You)
>>190125
>I was only in this to chase grades.
do you really enjoy lifting ad nauseam in the gym as opposed to climbing for a workout? think about it.
>>190204
this is why gyms with V10s that are actually V7s are brilliant, because they offer the illusion of linear grade progression that never slows down (obviously, grades are supposed to grow in exponential difficulty). it makes the setters and gym owners complete assholes but certainly boosts membership.';

'>>190204
>>190205
Remember: grades are just a number. You could spend a year climbing V4s and improve two dozen different climbing skills (which is certainly something to aim for) and still lack the finger strength to send crimpy V5s, which is ok and just means you want to consider serious hangboard training if you want to do better on those sorts of routes.
hopefully your gyms have a good balance of vertical, slight overhang, ~45 degree overhang and slab to train on.';

'>felt a click/pop in my wrist tendon area today';

'>>190207
>do you really enjoy lifting ad nauseam in the gym as opposed to climbing for a workout? think about it.
>Do you really enjoy getting jacked, buff, swole and having a cool physique in a low risk, injury free environment? Think about it
>Would your really want to give up being dyel? Think about it.
>Would you really want to forget about having a pulley injury and being unable to grip things for months? Think about it
You can't be serious.

>>190210
>Remember: grades are just a number.
So is age. So is your salary. So is your bodycount. If you think that number means nothing, you're retarded.';

'"Your grade" (however you interpret that) literally does mean nothing though. You go outside it's irrelevant because those grades are all over the place. You go to a different gym it's irrelevant because their setters are different. You climbing something not your style it's irrelevant because you're not at "your grade" on it anyway. You tell someone over the internet and they don't know what you mean at all because your gym is probably soft and you're probably lying anyway - it's irrelevant.';

'>>190233
It literally does matter. Because no matter where I am, my friends are better. I climb V5 in one gym, my friends are climbing V8. I climb V8 in one gym, those same friends are climbing V11. The fact is, I suck. I suck donkey ass. I need to kill myself because nothing I ever do will matter. No amount of training will make any difference. I suck. Just let me suck. Stop trying to persuade me that my life has value when it doesnt. It says alot about you climbing harder than me. You don't know what it's like to plateau. You don't know what it's like to be left behind.';

'>>190234
Grow up and fix your attitude.';

'>>190235
Im trying man, Im trying, but shit's hard. Life sucks. How am I supposed to love myself if I climb such bitch grades. My friends are better than me despite climbing for the same amount of time. What can I do to catch up?';

'>>190227
Damn, my wrist is still weak/fucked more than a year after, some slopers hurt like a bitch... Hope you get better soon and don't suffer as long';

'>>190202
>average chunky chalk enjoyer
It's just a superior feeling of crushing the chunks.';

'>>190234
I won’t say any of those things because they’re true. You’re a little whing bitch and chances are even the fat granola lesbian punters will outclimb you in time. Now do yourself a fucking favour and get the fuck out of this thread.';

'>>190234
easy fix - get weaker friends. not even joking. it is real nice to have someone stronger to hang out with, so they can motivate you to try harder grades and give you advice. and at other times it is great when you can take the leader role, go at easy mode and provide the same for others.';

'>>190236
Unironically, pay attention to your feet or just cover your hands in liquid chalk to get that extra grip.
Otherwise, climb 3 times a week.';

'>>190111
This is marketed toward the loser who exclusively pulls plastic in a gym';

'>>190234
Bro, chill. You're probably like 20 or some shit. This is long term, you're gonna have periods of huge breakthroughs and growth, and some stagnation. But the stagnation is never really static, it's just when progress becomes harder to see.
>>190245
>Granola Lesbian Punters
kek. I'm saving that.
>>190246
Unironically this. Learn to be a sensei for once.
>>190252
I mean given the prices, that shit is marketed towards the rich white golf-fags who're too scared to climb outdoors but still want to tell their CEO friends that they do something cool on Saturdays.';

'>>190234
>I need to kill myself
Please do asap you absolute bitch';

'>>190232
>So is age. So is your salary.
these things majorly affect your quality of life, whether you climb V5 or V9 shouldn't be affecting your quality of life unless you're a retarded faggot
>reddit spacing
checks out, kys retard >>>/pw/ >>>/lgbt/';

'>>190331
>reddit spacing
full blown retardation';

'>>190331
>>190349
picrel';

'>>190242
thats what i like about it
just crushing the chunks before i go on a climb is like meditation to me';

'>>190234
who cares what ur friends climb, just have fun and send i don't get ur issue who tf cares
i'm climbed v5 after 6 weeks my friend climbing for 6 months at the time stuck on v3 and i helped him through it, got him to flash his first v4';

'>>190387
I made this.';

'>>190349
>>190367
>newnigger pretends the definition is different because some screeching sperg on a porn board said so
we all can tell you actually have autism so you can stop posting now. reread your post >>190234 and try really hard to understand how fucking retarded you are. if you don't see any problems you probably should just kill yourself';

'>>190433
Why are you so butthurt, newfriendo?';

'Climbing gym closed for a week due to comps. I bought a hangboard. Do I just hangboard three times this week?';

'>>190470
Why don't you find some people to go climbing outside with?';

'>>190487
I live in Iowa';

'got some recommendations for a second pair of climbing shoes?';

'>>190501
I live in Connecticut.';

'>>190503
Skwama';

'>Middle finger aches after hangboarding
>Take a light week
>pain goes away after 5 days
>start climbing super low volume
>Maybe 3 boulders a session instead of 9.
>another week passes
>Decide to warm up with hangboarding
>Barely load my hands
>Pinky hurts for the duration of the session
why is the body like this. It's still acheing. I barely fucking loaded it, my feet were still on the fucking ground. Seconds later, I bodyweight hung off a large edge. No pain. Come off. Aches mildly. Why the fuck do fingers do this shit. How am I supposed to get better when this shit keeps happening?';

'>>190503
Ke don’t listen to this fag >>190518';

'>>190525
By not being such a bitch about it I guess.';

'>>190503
whatever fits your foot the best will always be the best shoe, consider trying some aggressive ones or a shoe with a different stiffness to the first one you had also
>>190529
theres nothing wrong with the skwama?';

'>>190207
the blue (foot) variant is also good for hands/feet. just has less moisturizer/paraffin';

'>>190111
then skip it? faggot. Get over yourself
How else are they gonna get paid. Ad revenue will never pay the bills in this sport (for most)';

'Good session today after being away for a couple of weeks, cruised up a few 6as including one that my friend (who is a much better climber than me) struggled with a fair bit
I mean I should be able to flash 6a in general, have done a few 6b and a 6b+ before, but it was the fact that I basically flew up them and didn't get pumped at all
Have been trying to train myself to grip softly and trust in my open grip instead of overgripping everything, think it's working
Although there was three of us this session so I had longer breaks than I would usually get when it's just me and my usual partner, probably helped
Still, really happy';

'Anybody else go to their local reel rock screening';

'>>190529
Are you the anti-Sportiva/Scarpa fag?';

'>>190595
yeah I went twice and my two local hosts did not have that cup.';

'>>190125
>>190205
Board climbing, outdoor climbing, hangboarding, campusing
Lifting is allowed but not mandatory and comes second
Anything else climbing related is to be done for fun/resting
Being heavy is subpar but ok, being fat isn't';

'>>190387
>i'm climbed v5 after 6 weeks
indoor grades moment
>>190525
Different grip types yields different forms of stress
Which is also why some ppl can handle 160% bw for 10 seconds on half crimp 18mm edge but can't hang bodyweight on 3finger drag 18mm edge
>>190581
If your max is 6b+ you should not be onsighting the majority of 6a-s you get on
Either your max is not 6b+ or you're talking about indoor climbing in which onsighting/flashing is a meme';

'been climbing hard for a year and I'm getting really tired of finger training. if it was even just half as slow as getting stronger muscles I'd be ok with it, but the gains are much much slower.
>b-but I saw some guy on youtube improve rapidly in just a month
those faggots had no experience with actually crimping small edges for any amount of time and were able to get comfortable with the sensation in a month--their grip strength didn't actually improve doing nohangs.
Looks like I've lost interest in improving from outdoor V6 / a few V7s bros... sad but could've been worse';

'>>190656
Is doing kilterboard twice a week a good idea? Monday, climb regular shit Wednesday, then climb Friday?';

'>>190707
I don't know you so I don't know
You have pros doing 2 sessions a day 35h a week and you have Jan Hojer doing 3 2h sessions a week
If you think you can, try it. Just be smart about your warmup/rest/recovery/rate of exhaustion/state of your fingers etc...';

'Any climbers taking supps like creatine? solo research says it's good for body and mind but the retards in /fit/ are currently split';

'>>190729
creatine is absolutely worth taking for climbers since it pretty much just gives you more gas in the tank for max efforts. It's a little bit more questionable for endurance athletes to take it since it makes being fully hydrated a lot harder and you're more prone to cramping when slightly dehydrated. Ignore any fearmongering about balding, I've been taking it on and off for ten years and have a full head of hair (but some early graying) which is just genetics.
The water weight you gain from creatine is only like 3-5 lbs which isn't THAT big a deal for climbing especially since you'll be stronger relative to that weight.';

'Lads ...';

'Injured my hand on rock last week, ever since that , even though it's healing well I'm not feeling the same energy / confidence I had, I don't want to meet my climbing friends or climb at all, feels like I'm just going through the motions. I've tried to use this time to do other types of training which went fairly well, but I feel very disillusioned and disappointed. Sorry guys I had to get this off my chest. Maybe this is where climbing progress ends for me';

'>>190760
I felt the same when I injured my finger. I couldn't push as hard as I'd like to so I felt like shit. But still trained and climbed and when it finally healed and I could go hard again I was a completely different climber. Felt so good to be back and even better than before. Don't worry anon, it will be good again once it heals and you know you can push yourself again.';

'>>190761
I really hope so, thanks for the kind words. Climbing is the second most important thing to me besides my work, so i felt really hurt by this setback - it felt as if all my training/efforts went to waste. Glad to hear it turned out well for you!!!';

'>>190750
She lets the ugliest whiny loser hit it. Kek';

'>>190781
it should be me';

'should I even bother on a kilterboard/moonboard if I'm new? Not sure what to focus on';

'>>190781
he's an inspiration to us manlets, don't you dare disrespect my king I'd shove my nose in his taint just for a chance to smell Miho';

'>>190840
No. Get better fingers first by climbing normal shit. It's easy to injure yourself on moonboard.';

'>>190859
>Is it better to walk 10 miles or drive to work each day?
>No, it's better to walk to work, bike crashes can be fatal
>Should I shop for my own groceries, or use uber delivery?
>Don't go outside, you might risk getting robbed. Always use app delivery services
>Is it better to train with 1lb dumbbels or a 45lb barbell
>1lb dumbbell, the 45lb dumbbell could break your spine. 1lb with 10 reps should be plenty
Classic fearmongering in the right climbing community
>rreeeee, b-b-but... you might get injured *Gasp*
No you won't. Just don't be stupid and moonboard every single fucking day. Quit telling climbers not to do shit that will help them you fat fuck.';

'>>190861
As far as I've done research on this fingerboarding moonboarding topic, the general consensus seems to be:

If you're already climbing a lot(4-5+ days /per week): Go for fingerboard/moonboard

If not, climb more. But I'm not super experienced';

'>>190861
>just don't be stupid
Almost every new climber is stupid in terms of training and they don't know when they're about to get injured.';

'What's the difference between a moonboard and the 40 degree part of the wall at the gym?';

'>>190111
your fault for watching shit where you see this
literally never see anything like this, but i don't watch magnus so maybe it's all there';

'>>190872
Ironically that's what's probably going to get someone injured, having 4-5 days of climbing with little to no rest in-between then adding moon boarding on top of that? Whatever. People can do what they want, everybody's different, and in a sport like climbing it's hard to generalize. There's only one universal in this sea of variables-
1) - Listen to your body. Does it hurt really badly to crimp something? Maybe don't do that. Does it hurt a little but goes away after a warm up? Prolly fine, but be careful.
2) - Have rest days. No beginner (less than 5 years of climbing experience) is going to benefit by climbing 5-6 days a week without any rest.
That's it. Everything else is bullshit. We're ALL going to fucking make it.';

'>>190919
Make what? Why do you have to be so cringy about it? This is not /fit/, and consequently you’re not talking to third world incels desperate to better themselves in order to get laid.';

'>>190934
>Make what? Why do you have to be so cringy about it?
Why do you let it bother you? You're exactly the 4chan archetypal shizo who pretends that what I've said is a slight. We're on 4chan. Most people on the website are incels or people looking to improve. Therefore, it's targeted towards you.';

'>>190943
I didn’t take it as a slight, I just don’t want to read annoying, irrelevant shit like that. You like to complain about reddit in these threads, yet you yourself act like you came from there with your attempts to fraternize with anons over this shit as if it were some existential struggle.';

'>>190745
cool, ordered some of it to try out. I'm pretty short so I'm mindful of every lb difference but I think I'll be okay.';

'bros my local crag is finally dry,';

'>>190949
Oh no, you accidentally read something you didn't like. I should respect your feelings and monitor what I say to make sure it doesn't mildly annoy anyone... wait a minute... which one of us did you say sounds like they come from reddit?
>>190953
You're gonna notice a difference after a week or two. There's a slight possibility you won't notice any at all, so my recommendation is to load it. Take 5g, 4x a day for one week, then take 5g a day after. This "loading phase" helps it accumulate in your body and saturate your muscles, so you can notice a difference right away, rather than wait 2-3 weeks. When taking creatine, never take it by itself, never take it with water (always use milk or some other drink with lots of calories), and you should be fine. I always microwave milk then put creatine in it so it dissolves better. Never had stomach problems after doing this.';

'>>190905
you'll have unique holds on the gym wall, duh
>>190965
sweet!
>>190953
>>190966
>creameme
enjoy looking like shit in your mid 30s onward';

'>>190978
Enjoy not benefitting from something already in your fucking body just because you fell for the baldness memes.';

'>>190980
>Enjoy not benefitting from something already in your fucking body
supplementfags are peak retardation. the vast majority of elite athletes and military personnel don't take creameme because after a year or two of serious exertion it's no longer increasing your maximum capabilities and you have to continue taking it daily, forever, or else you'll lose a shocking amount of muscle mass. like all workout supplements, it's just a get-rich-quick delusion';

'>>190985
you clearly have no fucking clue what creatine is or how it works, and if you think fags in the military aren't on shit much worse than this, then you're a onions-cuck with undiagnosed 'tism.
>the vast majority of elite athletes and military personnel don't take creameme
You mean the same athletes pumping themselves with hormones and shit for a 1% performance boost? Those same athletes that openly admit to taking creatine? Would it boggle your tiny mind to learn that athletes also take fuck tons of caffeine too? Is caffeine an acceptable "supplement"? You really don't know how the world works
>after a year or two of serious exertion it's no longer increasing your maximum capabilities
It's statements like this and
>ou have to continue taking it daily, forever, or else you'll lose a shocking amount of muscle mass.
that show you have no idea what the fuck it is. Creatine already exists in your muscles you retard, it helps replenish ATP in your muscles before they fully startup the anaerobic energy system (glycolysis). It's essentially giving you a slight boost in power and force production while doing high intensity work, allowing you to train harder, climb harder, and get stronger as a result. Any increase in muscle mass has to do with how it makes your muscles take in more water because it exerts osmotic pressure (something your dumbass never learned in biology). Creatine is literally in every muscle cell in your body ALREADY. Only difference is it's probably not at capacity. The average person usually has about 50-60% of their creatine stores full at any time. All supplementation does is get that to 100% and makes it stay there. Creatine is naturally found in meat products, especially red meat, so theoretically you could get your creatine exclusively from diet, but for most people it's not feasible since you'd have to pay exorbitant prices to ensure you're getting enough red meat into your diet.';

'>>190986
holy lul';

'>>190966
Can't imagine taking creatine in warm milk.
I just take a teaspoon dry and wash it down with a glass of water.';

'>>190966
I don't bother with the loading phase since taking too much in a day can fuck up my gut
just take 5g max per day and you'll notice it working within a week
also IIRC it's absorbed best in the presence of sugar so just mix it into juice or gatorade or something, idk why you'd use milk but I guess it's fine in a shake if that's what you want to drink, it probably doesn't make that big of a difference';

'https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9dpgJi_q4rI
>gym climbing : (annoyed basedjak)
>gym climbing (ft. Toby Segar) : :O';

'>>191032
nice vid';

'>based Natalia hating on dyno shit and parkour bouldering
luv her';

'>>191032
>hannah morris slop
Not gunna watch some loser terminally stuck on a v5 after 12 years of climbing consistently';

'>>191032
weird, love storror and would think I would enjoy any combination of Toby and climbing, but Hannah really makes the worst climbing videos of anyone with that size of channel. so many minutes of effectively nothing in that vid. what happened to the standard 10 minute video? would make that on watchable.';

'>>191067
where?';

'Fuck it, might just do para climbing comps since I can become an olympian much easier. Every para climber I have seen has both feet and hands.';

'>>191110
https://youtu.be/teqTq5h27IM?si=mR3b3xWMku1m-sBn&t=326';

'>>191067
>>191129
Man, I wish they’d get Pete to set up a proper crack boulder for the Olympics.';

'>>191083
>12 years
I knew she'd been climbing a while but that can't be true, genuinely unfathomable';

'>>191158
She talks about it in one of the videos she made for all the fat women and skinny women who started climbing because it is a fad and encourages them not to get discouraged at getting stuck at a V2. I am just glad climbingcirclejerk and climbharder have pretty much bullied any hanna morris fans from posting her content there';

'>>191161
>Unironically admits to browsing two subreddits';

'>>191083
>types "gunna" because he lacks the self-awareness to realize how retarded he sounds
Hannah climbs V7, so 5 grades harder than anything you've sent.
>100k+ subs
She's literally popular, and you're just some fuckwit. Nobody asked for you to share your mental retardation.';

'>>191165
>t.';

'>12 years of climbing
>allegedly can do only a V7
Mentally weak KWAB';

'This thread is so confusing. I can't tell if half of these comments are jerking or not.

Hannah Morris bouldering is a great youtube channel that services an audience that is very different from the stereotypical gym bros so I really hope a lot of these negative comments are in jest.';

'I refuse to watch any climbing content by people who climb less than V10. No exceptions.';

'I refuse to watch any climbing content by anyone who climbs less than V13. And they have to lead 5.14B, too. And they have to be setters. And competitive medalists in bouldering, lead, and speed. Actually I don't watch anyone. All of them are imperfect, disgusting creatures. I only go to the crag with a pair of horse blinders on and a spotter who calls out other climbers that I may avert my eyes. I run adblock on my shit to avoid accidentally seeing other climbers, that their insignificant technique may imprint on me, permanently ruining my career. I only leave the house to climb and harvest collagen peptides.';

'>>191169
she did the V7 like 8 years ago
she can only go up to V5 now';

'When I first started climbing I would watch every climbing channel but I've realised they're all cringe and now I just watch Wedge Climbing because Jim Pope is cute.';

'>>191181
Who gives a shit? She obviously doesn't try to improve that much, otherwise she wouldn't have such a decline. Why does it matter? Does it change the quality of her content?';

'>>191146
Would love to see it';

'>>191165
>Hannah climbs V7
lol, lmao
>>191171
we need this pasta in the OP of every thread';

'>Natalia Grossman
I'm in love. Literal goddess';

'>>191171
Updoot

>>191213
She's mine!!';

'Brooke Raboutou is the thinking mans choice and that is not up for debate';

'>>191164
What’s wrong with that?';

'>>191164
Climbharder, despite being on plebbit, has a ridiculous amount of autists who will write you an entire exercise regimen to get stronger for climbing. One of the few places that grounds itself in the idea that in order to climb harder grades, you can’t be a dyel techie';

'>>191226
>the smile of a climber living in the shadow of her peers';

'>>191237
Unironically? Shit. I need to check it out then. i've only ever heard redditors say
>Want to climb? Just climb brah
I've only been on climbharder once, and it was just a bunch of fearmongering twats telling someone not to hangboard. Maybe it's gotten better in recent years. Do you have an example thread of someone as autistic as me writing advice for other climbers?';

'What's a good way to counter a barn door when flagging isn't an option? I have my right foot on a chip, right hand on a side pull and my left hand is coming far up above my head for a gaston pinch. My left shoulder is a bit fucky so maybe I just can't hold the position, but in general I have a low success rate with high, shouldery moves. I think the key might be to simply be closer and have more of a bend at the elbow, but I'm keen to hear what you faglords have to say';

'>>191272
>I'm keen to hear what you faglords have to say
being on a chip, how good is your edging? could be an issue of not getting a solid pinch with your opposite (left) hand quick enough, could be that you're putting too much momentum into the move, could be incorrect footwork for the route, etc.
my friends all barndoor 5x as often as I do and I think them being really tall makes that more common. could be a balance issue, could be not getting their center of gravity low enough, etc. etc. etc.';

'>>191272
Aim higher than you think for the left hand gaston move. Your shoulder is much stronger if your body is high relative to the hold versus down low. Pre flag your left foot out left, so that as you go for the move that leg falls towards your mid line with momentum. Depending on where the foot chip is, you could also try swapping feet but the further right the chip is the worse that will feel.';

'>Be me
>V5s are doable
>Moonboard problem isn't
>inb4 indoor climbing fag
I want to do a moonboard problem. Any tips?
Bw- 180, height- 6'2';

'>>190080
Outdoor climbing is a lot harder than indoor, so there is that, you gotta get good indoor first before you do outdoor.';

'>>191297
sorry retard, your gym is extremely sandbagged. I was climbing V3 moonboard when I could climb V4 in my gym, the fact that you are failing just tells you you're not at the level you think you are.
board climbing is an ever better metric of true climbing grades than outdoor (at least until V11+) due to the sheer number of unique sends
>I want to do a moonboard problem
hangboard train and get better technique.';

'>>191301
>sandbagged
you mean overgraded*';

'>>191301
>Your gym is sandbagged
Don't you mean inflated? Also it doens't surprise me, most american gyms are. I was told hangboarding doesn't help with moon-board problems... Should I just fuck around on a moonboard until something clicks? Or should I hangboard for a month?

>>191298
>outdoor climbing is harder
I don't think that's necessarily true, it's just that outdoor climbing is its own style. The footholds suck, reading a route becomes alot harder, and you have to have more intuition for when to use technique. The grading can feel more sandbagged, but it's also more fair imo.';

'>>191129
the guy who does that podcast looks insufferable, isn't he some c tier tv actor and extremely mediocre climber?';

'>>191305
>I was told hangboarding doesn't help with moon-board problems
absolutely does, how do you expect to keep body tension on crimps if you're not very very comfortable on the crimps?
look up vids of people doing easy moonboard problems and try to emulate. you'll be able to diagnose lots of problems right away';

'>>191318
Which type of hangboarding session is better:
1) - Climb regularly, then have a hangboarding session at the end. Won't be able to hangboard as hard, but will get lots of volume in
2) - Only climb enough to warm up (15-20 mins) then have a hard hangboarding session. Only hangboard that day';

'>>191331
Hangboard 1st and then do a climbing sessions working on technique.';

'>>191331
how often are you climbing? you should be able to get 3 hard sessions in per week, any assortment of climbing or hangboarding. this is why you want, at a minimum, two wooden boards mounted at home, one ~18mm and one ~27mm. you can also nohang daily to see results quicker when you're first starting finger training.';

'bros i lead my first outdoors 6b+ today, havent even done a 6a lead yet because theres none in my area kek, it was a near vertical slab and also somewhat in a style ive done before';

'>>191339
I climb three days a week, and I go hard on each day, albeit in a different style. I do overhangs on day 1, rest day, day 2 I focus on slopers/vertical stuff, rest day, day 3 I do all the crimpy stuff, then have two rest days before repeating.
>Nohangs
I just do nohangs off my doorframe at home. Since they're so submaximal, I don't see the need to get a hangboard since I can just load it on my roughly 25mm doorframe. When I did nohangs twice a day, I saw a huge boost in finger strength, but then I stopped hangboarding. I plan to combine both. What do you think of this schedule-
Monday & Wednesday -climb hard
Friday - Hangboard only session?
>>191340
That's fucking sick!!!! Congrats dude, do you have photos?';

'>>191342
>so submaximal
only 20-30% submaximal, but your door frame likely still works. your schedule plan sounds fine, just be aware that a serious hangboarding session will put even more strain on your fingers than a full session of crimpy climbing (so if you start feeling lasting pain in your pulleys or other issues, take a week off and then cut back). but, definitely try it out for a month; when I first started harder hangboard routines I was having lots of fun with them.
another thing--your hangboard session shouldn't last you longer than 20-30 minutes. for this reason you'll want to finish out your session with dedicated footwork exercises on easy climbs, or something else that won't require much finger strength (cardio is good too)';

'>>191352
Duly noted. I'm an incredibly apprehensive climber, so when I feel a tweak I put on the yellow light. So far, nothing's ever hurt, worst I've had are slight tweaks that are minor enough for me to still climb on because they don't feel like anything, and active loading/recovery will help them go away anyways. I just finished a 20 minute repeater protocol today - Trained the four finger open-handed on the beastmaker 2000's biggest edge (I think it's around 30mm?) Did 7 seconds on, 3 seconds off 5 times, then did that for 3 total sets. Rested 5 minutes between each set. I plan to add weight to this repeater protocol. It's hard enough so that it's challenging, but easy enough that I can progressively overload it. I'm going to do this for 3 weeks, then switch to a moonboarding protocol. I didn't think to practice footwork afterwards, that's a good idea I'll save for next time. My fingers feel great. Tired, but otherwise fine, which is expected since that's how most of my crimp heavy days are.';

'had a comp today, scored 1st place, first comp ever, in the adv. mens, only have been climbing 3 months
and i'll be honest, i think i fucking hate climbing now; it was fun before, this was the most unfun shit i've ever done in my life.';

'I was super close to sending my a two new climbs that previously felt impossible but my wrist popped out of place or something on some open hand shit and now it hurts :( had an MRI today';

'>>191480
>comp
>this was the most unfun shit i've ever done in my life.
Welcome to competition climbing, it will only get worse';

'>>191498
You'll be fine. Don't listen to the fear-mongering fuckheads telling you to take "months if not years or decades" break from climbing. Climb shit you can without pain. Look up wrist strengthening exercises on youtube and commit to those therapies on the side. If you're wrist is good enough to type on 4chan, odds are it'll be good enough to get back to normal within 2-3 weeks max. If you really want a diagnosis, give me the time & date of the incident (I refuse to call anything that didn't cause bleeding/bruising an injury), as well as what you were doing for the two sessions prior. Questions:
1) - Did you climb two or more days in a row? Did you receive adequate rest before this climb?
2) - Was there any symptom or minor ache you had before it finally popped?
3) - Did you continue climbing on it after? Or did you end the session because it hurt?
4) - How much time passed between the incident and getting an MRI?
5) - What's the pain on a scale of 1 to 10, 1 being just aches slightly, anything above a 7 means it hurts too much to climb.
I want you to know that lots of people will tell you to "take time off" blah, it's all rubbish. Nobody wants to be told they can't do their favorite thing, so I'm not gonna tell you that either. Nowadays, actual fucking anatomy is being brought to everybody's attention. It's becoming common knowledge that tissues recover properly after being loaded. So even IF shit hurt, you'd still want to gently load the wrist to make sure it heals faster, and to make sure the tissues heal properly. Rest alone usually means the tissue won't be configured properly. So you'll be fine.';

'>>191480
this is what happens when you make a non-competitive sport competitive, go climb outside';

'>>191531
>Be me
>Indoor climber fag
>Climb V7s
>Life's good.exe
>Cloimb outside
>V5's are hard as shit
>"Climb outdoors mate, it's less competitive"
>Outdoor 5.11c is harder than indoor 5.12b
>"C'mon guys, isn't this fun? It's so much less competitive"
>Lmfao, what do you mean you're struggling Clearly you're not the hotshot you think you are
>"Oh great, another indoor climbing fag"
>"So much less competitive"
Why are outdoor climbers like this?';

'>>191572
Good. Stay in your soft gym with all your lgbtq2+- troons';

'>>191577
Realistically, I'd like to open a modern gym corporation which is as conservative as possible. Moment you step in, rather than see 32+ brands of rainbow coated climbing shoes and vending machines filled with "lattes", it'd be a blue lives matter flag, with a display of guns used by officers and veterans. You wouldn't smell parfum at the entrance, but rather gunpowder. There'd be television screens playing Top Gun/Top Gun: Maverick on loop, instead of "Only Woman Wednesdays, #girlpower" advertisements. We'd still grade softer than indoors, but there'd still be mandatory sandbagging to make other cuck gyms feel humbled. Memberships would be cheap, roughly half of that demanded by those pro-woke fucks who audaciously ask for $90+ a month. Instead of yoga classes, we'd have gun instructors come over to tell you about your 2A rights, then partner with shooting ranges to send climbers over there to get them certified (assuming this gym's in a fag state where there's no open carry, which it likely will be because texas has little need for a gym like this...). My dream gym is one that makes climbing fucking cool, rather than shove this bullshit fat positivity every time I enter a gym. No anon, I don't plan to stay in these tranny gyms for much longer...';

'>>191578
Why would you play pro gay films in a conservative establishment?';

'>>191525
The first incident was on February 19, but it reoccurred on March 17 . I had done pretty casual stuff in the gym for two sessions prior, mostly sub-limit bouldering.
1) Rest was standard. The injury was on the first "difficult" climb of the day after two warm ups, but I had already done that climb before
2) No symptoms prior. It happened when I made a hard move off a sit start to a sloping edge with my right hand; I don't usually use open hand/three finger drag so I think that the dynamic force was just too much for my wrist
3) I did continue to climb, but it didn't bother me on anything that I could half/full crimp, and didn't hurt when I wasn't climbing
4) I had the MRI yesterday, so about a month since the first occurrence and a week after the re-occurrence
5) Pain right now is fine when my wrist is straight, 1/10. It hurts the most when my wrist is in full extension and the pain increases as I supinate it.
I went climbing in the gym and the pain was immediate on a specific move where I was on the spray wall and holding a horizontal pinch with my right hand, most of my weight on my left foot. As I tried to pull through the pinch the pain increased. But this pain is different than the popping out of place pain that happened when I was climbing on real rock';

'>>191301
Do you think beginners with like 6 months of experience should do hangboard and moonboard training?';

'>>191594
Not that anon but if you can moonboard, then moonboard. Try doing it once a week. Don't be stupid on it and you'll be fine. If shit aches, stop doing it, but doing crimpy stuff at first can make your fingers feel worked. Just don't overdo it.
>Should I wait X many years to start hangboarding
No, you can start now, but again, don't over-do it. Start by gently loading your fingers in the four-finger half crimp position, with your feet on the ground. Gently take some weight off your feet and put it on your fingers. Load your fingers for 7 seconds, then unload them for 3. This is one rep. Do 4-5 reps for one set. Do 2-3 sets once a week. This is called a repeater protocol, and it's a fantastic way to get your fingers used to the stress of crimping. Take it super slow, keep it to the end of a session and don't try and kill yourself on it and you'll be fine. The retards saying, "oh only an EXPERIENCED climber can do X" are redditors who want to feel better about their worthless lives. The only people getting injured are idiots doing max-hangs with a stupidly heavy weight without resting at the end of a session and then do this for multiple days in a row. A single workout will, in all likelihood, never injure you. So just be smart about it. As for the intensity of the repeater workout, keep it challenging, but not "Oh fuck me I'm dying" hard. As your fingers get stronger, take more weight off your feet and put them on your hands. Within a month, you'll find that it's hard to load your fingers and make it feel challenging with your feet still on the ground. That's the moment you take your feet off the ground and start doing bodyweight repeaters. You don't even have to stick to the 7 seconds on, 3 seconds off model, you can do 5 seconds on, 5 off, etc. Just make sure you're incrementally loading your fingers more and more over time. Good luck anon';

'>>191582
Homoeroticism is A-OK if it's in the Navy. The gayest military-establishment on earth (God bless them)
>>191593
>The first incident was on February 19, but it reoccurred on March 17 .
Okay so this happened twice, and you rested 4 weeks between the occurrences.
>3) I did continue to climb, but it didn't bother me on anything that I could half/full crimp, and didn't hurt when I wasn't climbing
That's really telling. It shows that it was really just a tweak more than anything, it's nothing that should keep you from climbing.
>I went climbing in the gym and the pain was immediate on a specific move
Okay that's GOOD that it's only specific moves that trigger it. It means it's very limited in how it can affect you.
>But this pain is different than the popping out of place pain that happened when I was climbing on real rock
This sounds like a wrist tweak to me. Mind if I ask how long you've been climbing? Here's the prognosis- You're going to be fine. Slopers can fuck ALOT of people up, just like crimps can fuck alot of people up. Don't blame it on anatomy, blame it on strength, which is something that can be trained. For the time being, you need to climb normally, but avoid any styles of climbing that hurt it. If you truly cannot limit boulder without unbearable pain, then climb light, but you should still climb 2-3 days a week as normal. Even if you're doing a hard project and it hurts slightly for a second, don't be too bothered, just monitor and assess. If your pain is getting worse workout to workout, you need to lighten the load. You know you're on the right track when, at worst, the pain doesn't change much, or when it's improving session to session. At some point, you're going to need to strengthen your wrists. Even when it's recovered, it may still cause issues in the far future. Someone with strong wrists won't be bothered as much as someone with weak wrists, so truly focus on how you can strengthen them over time.';

'>>191593
Doing wrist curls/barbell exercises like benching and overhead-pressing can help. Look up videos on youtube or forum posts where people had similar issues bothering them and see what helped them. You don't have to stop climbing, but you need to figure out why your wrists are weak, and focus on how to address that. I know lots of strong V8-V9 climbers who get their wrists fucked by V4 slopers. It just happens to some people. Also in the future, maybe limit slopers like you'd limit crimps. You wouldn't want to do nothing but limit crimps. Similarly, save the hard sloper crap for when you feel confident. Just be smart and train as best you can.';

'>>191644
Thanks';

'>>191649
>>191650
Thanks for the advice. I've been climbing for around three years now, and I've always been weakest on boulders (I think from a combination of weak wrists and weak open hand/3FD). I'm definitely planning on doing general wrist strengthening, but there are a lot of options. I previously was doing reverse wrist curls, regular wrist curls, and supination/pronation, but I don't know what specific part of my wrist is weak. I'll see if the orthopedist has any specific recommendations for me at my next appt.';

'>>191480
lol
>>191572
go castrate yourself you fragile-ego faggot. since you're clinging so hard to your soft gym grades it's clear you'll never be a good climber.';

'outdoor climbers:
>Just climb outdoors, it's not competitive at all
Also outdoor climbers
>>191740
>go castrate yourself you fragile-ego faggot. since you're clinging so hard to your soft gym grades it's clear you'll never be a good climber.
I repeat- Why are outdoor climbers like this?';

'Long shot but fuck if I’m gonna try and use Mountain Project for this.

I’m driving out to Bishop on Thursday night, staying till Wednesday. I know it’s supposed to be a lil rainy Friday night and Saturday but I have very little time off and secured this weekend ages ago. The homies I’m supposed to go with are very close to bailing so I’m wondering if anyone is interested in meeting up and climbing. I have a small tick list of things I want to climb, mainly V4-5 boulders in the Happy’s and Buttermilks and I want to do some sport climbing in the O.R.G

Will be bringing 3 crash pads, a 70m rope, and a rack of draws. I’m not super strong and not really focused on crushing but I just love getting out there and having a good time in the outdoors

I’ll be checking back on this post every couple hours so drop a reply if you’re interested in meeting up and climbing

>picrel me on my favorite V0 in the ‘milks';

'>>191760
I've never climbed outdoors in my life. You're simply typing the most pathetic shit I've ever read in /cg/';

'just tried out Mammut chalk (chunky) for the first time after using a Metolius chalk ball for more than a year and holy shit, it feels like cheating. I can now hang off the hangboard's rounded sloper until my arms give out because my hands have absolutely no slip. I thought some chalks being better than others was a meme (like a 10% difference at best) but it's actually night and day. the best chalks must be the most performance-improving product you can buy other than shoes';

'>>191774
Who pissed in this guy's salad?
>>191781
This is 100% true. Just wait until you start using Magdust. That shit's a game changer. Hands stick to the wall like glue.';

'>>191781
>>191784
wild, I have the opposite experience. I agree the metolius super chalk is fucking garbage but I've tried probably all the high end chalks (including magdust) and so long as it's not too soft to stick to my hands there's no real difference. Like I've never not been able to climb something because of my chalk. For reference I project V6/7 outside';

'>>191787
Maybe I noticed a huge difference because I've been relying on the stupid no-name brand chalk that the gym I go to sells. It's the same chalk they have buckets of for people who rent the damn shit, so i figured "chalk is chalk" and climbed with it. Then I got magdust and instantly noticed a change.';

'>>191791
the low end of chalk is definitely trash, but you also don't need to spend a lot of money. Check out Frank Endo Gymnastic Chalk, it's usually like $3 and comes in a big block, just put the block in your bucket or bag and crush it down to your desired consistency.';

'>>190125
Why don't you do it because you enjoy it?';

'>>191784
>Magdust
do the best competition climbers use it? no? then why would I pay so much extra for it, other than to show the world that I'm a complete fanboy?
>>191787
strange. have you actually comparison-tested on a sloper before? but obviously, different hands will do better with different chalks, so I'm not going to tell you your personal experience is wrong
>>191792
>you also don't need to spend a lot of money
Mammut (non-liquid) chalk is one of the cheapest';

'>>191799
>do the best competition climbers use it? no? then why would I pay so much extra for it,
Do you want to stop being a faggot? No? Then why bitch when people pay for quality product that's proven to be better than other shittier chalks. Imagine being a poorfag shitting on me for paying 3 extra dollars.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jO_MXHn9TYU';

'>>191793
>Why don't you do it because you enjoy it?
What's there to enjoy?
>Having to fucking hike out in the middle of buttfuck nowhere with a bunch of idiots who have no clue what they're doing
>Nobody can find a route and when we finally do, it's too fucking sandbagged
>or sketchy (we don't have enough crash pads) >so we hike out 30 minutes just to feel like losers who can't get up a fucking crack.
>Then when we do find something we can climb, the sense of accomplishment is ruined when we realize it was some fucking V2 named "Jared's asshole".
No clue how to build anchors other than a quad, and I don't fucking trust it enough to make it work, and fuckers charge you $200 just to take a anchor tying course rather than just give you some time to tell you if anything's wrong with the knots you already know. This sport is shit, fuck you.';

'>>191804
>HURRR muh edgy climbtuber says it's the best chalk and that's clearly as good of data as what the top 0.001% of climbers select
stop posting sperg
>>191808
>the sense of accomplishment is ruined when we realize it was some fucking V2 named "Jared's asshole"
top kek';

'>>191818
>Youtuber actually demonstrates chalk on fucking sloper hold
>sticks to it like glue
>Poorfag on 4chan doesn't like that
>Makes his wittle wallet hurt, so sad.
I don't think climbing's for you brother.
>that's clearly as good of data as what the top 0.001% of climbers select
LMFAO he thinks he's in the top 1%. You sound like the type of redditor faggot who copies what the pros do.
>I only follow Arnold Schwarzenegger's brosplit because he's the GOAT.
>I only eat foods that top celebrities eat, because why would I want to eat foods that uglies eat?
>I only wear climbing shoes that Adam Ondra approves of
You're a V3 climbing at best working on that Jared's Asshole V2 outdoor project. Kys.';

'>>191772
Are you still on the Eastside? I live in Vegas, let’s climb sometime if you live close by';

'>>191840
Why are you so butthurt?';

'>>191863
The only one giving anyone attitude was that prick. Imagine bitching at someone because they opt to spend more than you. I'm not gonna apologize for being richer than you and buying the best shit on the market. Mr. "I only do what the pros do" is probably some larper faggot who doesn't even climb outdoors.';

'>>191872
5–10 years ago the climbing community at large would poke fun of you for having FrictionLabs chalk or merch, and it's only natural that the same happens with Rungne. Grow a spine and stop wall-of-texting in defense of your """luxury brand"""';

'>>191872
You're having a meltdown because someone made fun of you for wasting your money on snake oil. You've embarrassed yourself, now gtfo.';

'>>191878
It's cheaper than friction labs and it really is quite grippy compared to mediocre chalks, it's good chalk, who gives a fuck who makes it. Besides only crusty boomers don't like Magnus.';

'Best shoe for sticking onto slabs indoor for small feet?';

'>>191886
Nor that anon. I hate magnus and I still buy magdust.
>>191863
>>191878
>>191881
I'm surprised more people aren't focusing on what the other dude said. The sperg-anon isn't mad about the cost, he's mad about the other dude refusing it because apparently the pros don't use it (source? I know quite a few V15 climbers and above who use magdust when they get their hands on it). cringe.';

'>>191904
>I'm surprised more people aren't focusing on what the other dude said.
of course you're still seething a day later, you have aspergers. figure out how to grow a spine and move on or stop posting, faggot';

'dont the olympic guys mostly use bison designs competition chalk? its not like they dont use some fancy chalk that would be retarded when its allowed to do so';

'>>191904
>I know quite a few V15 climbers and above who use magdust when they get their hands on it
>I know quite a few V15 climbers and above
>when they get their hands on it
You couldn't have written a more fake-climber sentence if you tried. Really embarrassing to lie on the slowest board of an anonymous website.
>>191937
Definitely not. Saying they're the #1 chalk and "used by premier athletes" is like coffee shops saying they have the world's best coffee. You're falling for the oldest marketing trick--of course elite climbers worldwide aren't buying chalk from Colorado.
>its not like they dont use some fancy chalk
Ondra uses Mammut which is almost as cheap as any brand. What's clear to me after my personal experience is that US chalk doesn't quite hit the mark';

'any good futaba ito images bros';

'>>191938
>Ondra uses Mammut which is almost as cheap as any brand
>Ondra only drinks malt liquor, so I'll never drink beer
>Ondra eats ass three times a week, which is why I also try to eat as much ass as possible
>Ondra dates a white girl, so I'll only date white girls
>Ondra is 6'1, so I'll try to get height-increasing surgery to match that
This is what you sound like.';

'>>191960
i started using neck rings to extend my neck length but it dosent seem to have improved my climbing, got any clue why?';

'been in bishop a week and i’m not climbing shit!!!';

'>>191963
Gee it's almost like emulating the best doesn't mean shit when you don't climb as hard as they do with their body type. I'm gonna post my receipt for every bulk order of magdust I buy.';

'>>191960
>>191963
>>191977
imagine missing the point this hard. you're entitled to waste all the money you want since the best chalks are cheap, but you've spent literal days now screaming and sobbing in defense of your money wasting on 4cdn.org of all places. clear mental illness';

'>>191954';

'>>191954';

'>>192000
It's not a waste of money if the shit costs 2 dollars more per 100 grams and actually provides a performance boost. What you retards don't get is that a quality product's a quality product.';

'>>191960
>>191977
You're the fake-climber faggot who said
>I know quite a few V15 climbers and above who use magdust when they get their hands on it
howembarrassing4u, stop posting retard.';

'>>192011
Will Bosi uses Magdust you fucking retard. Ethan Pringle used it for a year back when he was projecting V14 projects, he mentioned it in his earlier content. Meanwhile you don't even climb outdoors. Enjoy being a poorfag who shits on people for getting quality gear. Not that it'd matter to you. Do you still use gym rentals?';

'I flashed the under 15s comp set';

'>>192007
Wot the hell is a BWC?';

'>>192009
Nah, it’s just funny that a recreational intermediate climber thinks that spending more money on chalk makes a difference for him.';

'>>192083
Honestly if the impact is as big that video made it look then it probably will.';

'>>192083
you're a bit of a midwit if you don't think there can be a difference between chalks. i'd gotten some trango shit for free, felt like silk on the hands but it couldn't keep my hands dry for shit. went back to white gold and stopped having that problem.';

'>>192073
short climber detected';

'Is having small feet an advantage in climbing or not?';

'>>192082
dunno, either the boulder world cup or a big white cock';

'>>192002
>>192007
>>192114';

'>>192124
We get it, you're an incel. Stop posting.';

'>>192102
No';

'>>192102
Yes';

'>>192197
Meant it isn't a disadvantage, but I read it wrong.';

'>>192002
Ellen Page lookin' chink
>>192009
>2 dollars more per 100 grams
lol, lmao. why lie when you know it's more than double that
>>192014
you're friends with bosi and pringle? sick af brah
>>192093
you're right, that was rigorous experimentation on display';

'>>190403
Somehow this being a shitty screenshot instead of a properly exported image makes it better.';

'Anyone climb at Riveter? Would like to have a boulder/belay fren';

'>>192487
don't live there but is western nc as beautiful as I imagine it?';

'>>192515
Incredibly gorgeous, especially as soon as when you leave Asheville proper (since all the rapid development is retirement condos or overpriced apartments for the WFH techies), truly gorgeous. Thinking about moving to Burnsville and it’s just green as far as you can see and all the shades of blue that make up the mountains in the distance';

'I got the veloce in a couple days ago and like a bunch of reviews online said the heel cup was super wide compared to any other shoe.
So I went and tried on the women's version and it was much better.
I think the reason for this is because people size down a lot for these but I am not interested in that yet. so if you're sizing down 6 sizes that heel cup will probably be fine but if you're only sizing down half a size or a full size it will be too wide.';

'Going to Pawtuckaway for the first time in about a month. Is the climbing there crimpy, slopey, etc? What can I train to give me the best chance at sending?';

'i gained 2kg over the spring break ='(';

'bouldering! on non-boulders!';

'>>192539
As long as the heel doesn't slide off your foot when you're heel hooking it's not a huge deal to have some dead space in the heel. Just my 2c, it's not that precise of a placement, so it doesn't matter if it's not as accurate or the heel smooshes when you bear down on it.';

'>>192626
is that maine?';

'>>192643
I guess it's just annoying as hell and weird looking.';

'>>192539
I have cursed duck feet and I've had veloces fall off during heel hooks. And if I downsize any more the front starts pinching and defeats half the point of buying veloces';

'Just been bouldering
Did 10 V4-5s
Then did some weighted Max hangs off a 20 mm edge
Been climbing a year
Hard V5s still kicking my arse';

'>>191083
I saw her today at Volume 1';

'>>192723
stay here you cunt';

'>>192723
keep going boulderbro!';

'pogos/moon kicks are easily my favourite movement in climbing, so happy theyre somewhat common both indoors and outdoors';

'>>192706
people really just buy high-rated climbing shoes instead of trying half a dozen pairs at a retailer and picking what fits their foot the best. If your shoe comes off during the climb that's your fault.
>>192723
sounds like normal progression. what % bodyweight?';

'>>192798
Like +30% added
Obviously I'd like to double that eventually';

'Just as the weather was getting better, it snowed in goddamnit. Fucking 20 cm overnight.';

'>>192798
For feet like that there probably aren't any options to try on that actually fit right. I tried on every pair at two stores and still had to settle.';

'>>192822
very normal. hangboarding hard at least once a week, I recommend repeaters. If you dont own a board and are going to the gym to accomplish this, work on footwork on easy problems for the rest of your session since hangboarding is always over quick.';

'I got the results from my MRI and nothing looks strange enough to warrant my experiences. Based upon my hypermobile shoulders and elbows, they think that I just have really loose wrists (they called it something like mid-carpal instability and subluxation). Has anyone dealt with anything like this before?';

'does tenaya make shoes made to order? my order from their website has been "sent to factory" and has not updated for the past few days.';

'Bouldering later';

'I might start doing weighted dips';

'Have any of you ever gotten to try a Grasshopper board? idk why there aren't any other boards with symmetry, I'd personally love to repeat problems flipped. It'd give tons of insight as to my weaknesses with certain limbs. the big slopers also look super cool but I'm guessing the 12x12 boards are extremely rare';

'How do I get better at climbing things that aren't jugs?
I'm really bad at anything that isn't a jug.';

'>>192968';

'>>192976
This specific hangboard or any of them?';

'>>192977
holy shit what a fast response for a slow board. here's the qrd:
• crimps: anyone can get better at these by "just climbing", but only up to intermediate grades. look into finger hypertrophy; the main idea here is that you need consistent progressive overload for finger gains (no duh). use a half-crimp grip (look it up). the current research indicates that repeaters on hangboards are the best for finger gains, but don't hurt yourself (only you know your limits, if you palpate a pulley and it hurts you need to stop to let it heal)
• pinches: most people are inherently good at these. just utilize your thumb well and consider wrist strengthening exercises if you're struggling
• slopers: chalk is the most important thing here, but having your center of gravity under slopers and also applying lots of force through your fingers and palm (maximize the surface area) will get the job done if you're strong enough. takes practice
• pockets: this is where your hangboard pocket training comes in
• underclings: unlike most other holds, these are easier to hold when they're closer to your waist
• sidepull: pull sideways.';

'>>192977
>>192979
and yes the Beastmaker 1000 is considered the best hangboard for most climbers, just be aware that if you press a finger against the sides of a slot that's generally considered cheating (you should be able to do the same hang on a campus rung). there's nothing missing on a 1000 for beginner and mid-level climbers except for sloper variety.';

'>>189862
>Went bouldering for the first time with my dad
>He's 6'5
>Been struggling with a route
>He just grabs the hold I have to dyno to get to
Am I NGMI bros?';

'>>190037
>He doesn't keep climbing until they turn callous again from chalk';

'>>192985
bosi's 5'9" so as long as your wingspan isn't below that it's possible. hate that fuckin fag thoughever';

'>>192992
I'm 6'1 atm my wingspan is average for that height, feels like im too short for the big reaches and too tall for the small sections';

'I've been to three different bouldering gyms in the last week- I'm starting to take my stuff with me everywhere I happen to go
Still a V4/5 noob, for now';

'>>192992
He seems like a nice dude.';

'>>192995
>feels like im too short for the big reaches and too tall for the small sections
you're just shit. you have Ondra height.
>>192999
that's sick, wish I had more than one to choose from. wouldn't affect my training but it'd be more fun.
>>193029
his weaselly, hesitating sociability is half of what's wrong with climbers. nu-hippies are the other half.';

'My gym's roof leaks so bad there's moss growing inside the hold when they've not been reset for a while. Does this even count as indoor climbing anymore?';

'>>192992
>as long as your wingspan isn't below that it's possible
There is no correlation with APE index and climbing better.';

'Over the next year I swear I will leave V4-5 normies behind in the most brutal fashion, and I will do that with a belt and a 1000 beastmaker';

'I can do pull ups for reps with 60% of my bodyweight attached
I just need more grip strength';

'Bouldering is the only thing I enjoy';

'Two more grades indoors until I learn to accept being alone again';

'At what grade will I get over her?';

'>>193067
>There is no correlation with APE [sic] index and climbing better
use your brain you mongrel. the average global height for men is 171cm and the average wingspan is +0. There are more than 60 9b climbers, post even just 6 with wingspans below 171cm. you can't because they aren't there.';

'>>193078
same except climbing in general. gym rope climbing can be fucking awesome, driving for an hour + and then lugging heavy gear for half an hour is not. I'm sure I'd love outdoor sport climbing if I lived somewhere with cool and or beautiful routes but where I live it's both inconvenient and shit.';

'>>193058
I don’t see him in that light at all. To me he just seems like a generally decent bloke.';

'>>192885
i assume you are this guy: >>191498
i also have hypermobile joints. i never had the exact issue you described. but it happened to me in both wrists that i pulled too hard, had a popping sensation in the joint and it would hurt afterwards. the pain presented at the extremes of hand rotation, either downwards or upwards to the forearm. it didn't really limit my climbing, i was just wary of the pain getting worse and it resolved itself in a few weeks or months';

'For me it's tension overload
No idea why these normies can't climb V6 and wonder why they can't
Its because they literally aren't training their fingers

Literally

Hang off a 20 mm edge
Add weight to your fat arse
Then when you can reasonably hang at that weight (7 seconds ISH)

Add some more weight
You fat cunt';

'You literally aren't getting stronger by just climbing
How are you
All you are doing is getting perhaps more insightful, wait 'ive seen this route before'
But it means less than nothing

Stick a fucking weight between your legs and get hanging off a 20 mm edge
You fat bastard';

'why do all the gym gumbies here that talk about nothing but training never mention grades above V6? theres more to climbing than grades anyways go outside already its fucking spring now';

'Yeah bros
Hugging some shitty globohomo slop v3 jugs is somehow going to improve my grip strength somehow
If I just keep hanging off some jugs my grip strength will magically improve

Just climbing makes you stronger (no it fucking doesn't)';

'Lot of brutal truthies being dropped here';

'If you aren't hanging off a 20mm edge with an ever increasing amount of weight between your legs
I suggest you give up immediately, because you simply aren't going to make it

You'll just be that old dude, who can't grip a thing but looks kinda good because everyone else is a normie. This isn't how I want to see my men perish';

'My state fucking sucks and makes me fill out a permit to just climb a few boulders';

'>>193143
What the fuck?

I recommend weighted hangs on a 20mm edge';

'>>193147
I don't see the point of doing such large edges unless they're negative.';

'I too, recommend weighted hangs on a 20mm edge
And like always, I recommend weight over form. When you think it's time to up that weight just up it baby don't even think twice';

'I am going to get so fucking good at climbing bros';

'Something about the idea of yanks climbing disgusts me';

'>>193157';

'The Font, borough is graded hard AF, almost surprisingly
I'm pretty sure it's the most central bouldering gym in Donedon, and you would almost suspect such a place to be graded soft, but a V4 there is a proper V4
A v3 at the Font is basically a V5 at LSD, Leeds';

'>>193127
>>193128
>>193128
>>193130
>>193137
stop posting you fucking sperg and or schizo. get a fucking grip';

'I don't even climb anymore I just watch magnus videos again';

'I'm nearing 30 and I get childlike excitement thinking about going climbing later in the day. feels good bros.';

'>>193162
lmao zachy rekt';

'Alri';

'max hang on jugs guy...';

'>Shawn Rab left Evolv for Scarpa
It’s over. Why the fuck did I buy Evolv shoes';

'What exercises do you recommend to be a better climber.
I'm going to be away from it for a bit and want to stay decent.
Currently a solid V3';

'>>193208
>assuming you have zero access to any equipment or normal gym
Pushups ‘til failure. Pullups ‘til failure. Pistol squats ‘til failure. Crimp pullups on doorframe ‘til failure.';

'>>193208
Weighted hangs on a 20mm edge.';

'>this is the guy telling you to do weighted hangs on a 20mm edge
Kek';

'>>193214
i like him, his cat videos are cute and his outdoor videos are surprisingly gnarly';

'>can do pullups on my 20mm doorway
>can't hang on it for shit

I suppose I'm just abusing momentum to stay on for the pull ups.';

'>>193210
>'til failure
no. solid number of reps a few away from failure, then perform as many sets as you can without the reps dropping.
>pistol squats 'til failure
you're so fucking retarded holy shit.
>>193289
"abusing momentum" is a real climbing skill since explosive pullups are the most important variant of pullups for climbers to be proficient at. but you do need to do hangs for finger hypertrophy.';

'>>193292
Kill yourself, dyel';

'>>193308
>exponentially larger volume without junk miles = less gains than one set
stop posting dumbfuck. have no doubt that I squat more, deadlift more and climb harder than you. pistol squats are a mobility diagnosis and about as far from being an effective climbing exercise as possible.';

'Bouldering later';

'>>193210
>Pistol squats ‘til failure
Extremely overrated.
t. squated 1/3 of my bodyweight for 5 reps. When I started';

'>>193439
>When I started
*delete this';

'>>193438
moonboarding later';

'how do you guys get away with climbing more than once a week? i go to the gym for about 5-6 hours at a time once a week. boulder as much as possible and then top rop until failure. i'm usually sore af until i go again. do people who go more often train for lower amounts of time?';

'From now on I'm just not going to read any posts containing the phrase "until failure".';

'>>193210
>Crimp pullups on doorframe ‘til failure.
Is this actually a good idea? I can do 10 regular pull ups but can't do more than 1 crimp pull up. What about open hand pull ups on a pull up bar? Seems safer for tendons desu.
t. newfag';

'>>193454
I don't dedicate that much time to climb in a day, but I climb and weight train every other day without any issues unless I injure myself. You need to work on your recovery if it takes you a week to stop feeling sore. Stop drinking and get good sleep.';

'>>193473
drinking? who said im drinking. i drink g-fuel and water.

i do notice that im the only person who stays that long in the gym but it's a long drive to get there so i just carve out one day a week and climb hard.';

'>>193454
>i go to the gym for about 5-6 hours at a time
I go for 2 hours at a time like twice a week I try to do 3 times a week but it's hard.
I'm not sore after.';

'>>193511
i'd be interested to see the difference between training for longer periods but less often. i am on my 6th day of bouldering now (after a 10 year break, so i do have experience) but i'm already back to projecting V5s. feels like every time i go back im measurably improving. the recovery is a little brutal.';

'>>193515
>i am on my 6th day of bouldering now (after a 10 year break
the soreness will go away.';

'>>193455
this
>>193457
crimp pullups in general (not "'til failure") are ok but not quite as useful as the campus board or, for something more beginner friendly, doing offset pullups on a hangboard. one hand on a top jug, other hand's fingers in a slot. also, if you can do 10 pullups I imagine you could do 3+ crimp pullups on a ~35mm slot. key takeaway here is that half crimp is always quite safe so long as you know your limits (if you feel pain in a pulley a day later, take a week off and then reduce the load).
>>193454
there's no way you think people normally spend 5 hours at the climbing gym, lmao. average membership holder probably climbs 1-2 hours per session, with lots of rest in that session. you can do higher intensity training like 4x4s once a week but you can't do it 3x a week.
>>193476
like, more than an hour drive? you can definitely get better by just climbing once a week but even then it doesn't make any sense at all for your session to be longer than 2.5 hours. your fingers and forearms shouldn't last longer than that, anything more is certainly junk miles.';

'>>193533
>your fingers and forearms shouldn't last longer than that
idk they do? i rest a lot and work from the gym but i probably climb for at least 4 hours during my time there.
>there's no way you think people normally spend 5 hours at the climbing gym
i don't think i implied that but if i did it's a mistake.';

'bros...';

'>>193534
There is no way you actually spend 4 out of 6 hours „on the wall“. If you do you are actually just standing on the jugs for the most of that time.
The only thing that comes to mind is that you are „training“ technique on easy climbs but if you are doing that for this long you have to ask yourself if you are really training something when you can breeze through it without much rest.';

'I climb 10 hours a day seven days a week';

'>>193533
>if you can do 10 pullups I imagine you could do 3+ crimp pullups on a ~35mm slot
I do the crimp pull ups on my doorframe which is ~20mm, so that might be a factor. I'd like to try some stuff on the campus board, but the problem is that I feel like if I go the the gym and boulder hard, I'll be too tired for the campus board and vice versa.';

'>>193214
he's alright but he should get contacts to stop looking like such a pedo';

'I climbed 1 V8, 3 v7 and 4 v6 today on the tension board 2 at 40 degrees. I tell ya what, it was a good day';

'>>193589
He'll still look like Quasimodo.';

'>>193593
nice sends. have you tried moonboard?';

'>>193619
Yes, I like it for training pure power and contact strength but find the tension board 2 to be more rounded and useful for the kind of climbing I'd like to do outside';

'>>193621
really? I find the small irregular holds on moonboard to be much more similar to an actual outdoor climb than the larger, regularly shaped, gym-standard pinches crimps and slopers on the tension board';

'>create a new word filter list to make /gif/ browsable for porn
>now /cg/ is filtered out on /xs/
I don't know which search term did it tbqhwyf';

'Hit a bit of a fucking wall with my weighted pull ups at +40kg for 4-5 reps lads
155% of bw';

'I suppose it doesn't need to be any better than that, I need to get my hang board up and be less of an inflexible bastard';

'>>193685
>>193686
that's enough pull strength for V8 probably. fingers are of course more important for climbing; few months after I started climbing I could do 40% added bodyweight pullups but only 10% added bodyweight on a 20mm crimp. now those metrics are at 60% and 50% and I've sent outdoor V7s.
definitely do some board climbing since 90% of the problems require a high foot move. if those moves don't feel pretty good then I think you're correct in assessing that as one of your biggest weaknesses';

'undefined';

'>>193739
I can hangboard +130% 20mm
These gains feel precious as my progress has been slow, 150% would be nice for now

I already feel like it's made a bit of difference, I seem to stick to the wall slightly better';

'Bros. im going to lead trad for the first time today, wish me luck on not dying :D';

'>>193865
Sounds really cool, don’t hurt yourself.';

'Just climbed after 5 pints of Black Sheep over 4 hours
I didn't really climb any worse than earlier in the week so I consider that progress';

'>>193865
only had time to do one route after warming up but fuck that was fun, probably one of the best routes ive done also. probably didnt place enough gear but the climbing was super easy despite somewhat wet rock, i mostly placed nuts but managed to get a fucking perfect pink tricam placement when i originally bought it as a joke...
forgot to bring my phone up the route so i didnt take any pictures sadly';

'I'm projecting a V3 right now.
It's a sit start overhang with some kinda dynamic step ups.
I have the worst hip flexibility ever though so I had to create my own beta for the start cause I can't put my feet on both of the foot holds.
I think I got it next time I go though, if I send it it will be my first V3.
I got like 80% of the way up but I was tired cause my beta is kinda hard and it was going to be a rest day until my friend asked me if I wanted to go.';

'>>193931
sounds cool, will probably try trad at some point. take any falls?';

'Actual 6C/V5 at places with proper grading (e.g the font borough, city bloc Leeds) still seems rather difficult to me 11 months of regular climbing in. I'm hoping I will have another eureka moment at some point over the next month

In terms of yank/new world YouTube gyms, I'm probably already at V6';

'Lots of new centres like Last Sundance, Leeds are using new world, YouTube grading
I can do 10 v5s there in two hours, but I'm complete shit (for now) and by no means a V5 climber';

'>Climbing works, Sheffield is the gold standard. Whatever grade you climb there, is what you what you truly climb.
How true would you say this truth nugget that gets passed around is, /cg/?';

'Swear modern climbing gyms like vauxwall London are frauding wildly on their grades
Like you will get some little neek student with noodle arms who started climbing after COVID claiming to climb V10';

'>>189862
Other than some climbing on trees and big rocks as a kid I've never done climbing. I'm in my 30s and no longer in shape but I used to grapple. The last time I applied that old grappling intensity to getting back in shape I ended up hospitalized with rhabdo. What do I need to know in order to make solid progress in climbing without injuring myself?';

'>>193995
just take it slow at the start and ramp up difficulty at a moderate pace
you're not gonna get rhabdo from climbing desu, your forearms will get way too sore to keep climbing way before you'll actually tax the rest of your body that much';

'>>193984
DO you follow any training programs for things like foot work?';

'>>193995
>What do I need to know in order to make solid progress in climbing without injuring myself?
Take rest days, climb 3 days a week when you start and not 3 days in a row, then start going every other day.
But continue to do rest days.
And don't use a hangboard for a long time, you just aren't ready for it and you can injure yourself.
Also warm up before you climb.';

'>>194005
footwork? whats that? any way i can train it on my beastmaker?';

'>>194007
>any way i can train it on my beastmaker?
Yeah go into a bat hang on it.';

'holy shit bros, gym grades do not matter. assume by default that they're completely wrong and the setters are 90IQ. you have access to boards, no? those grades are relatively accurate. add 1 grade to moonboard problems.
>>193995
>>194006
>climb 3 days a week when you start
absolutely dogshit advice for someone in their 30s. I recommend once every third or fourth day for a month, if you feel 100% find try every second or third day for a month, then try 3x a week which is a normal intermediate climber goal. if you haven't been climbing for years, any more frequently than 3x/week is fucking retarded. to the anons who haven't been climbing for years but still feel good climbing more than that, you're either very underage or your sessions are complete shit.';

'>>194032
well said';

'climbing partners try not to oversleep challenge (difficulty IMPOSSIBLE)';

'>>194032
>to the anons who haven't been climbing for years but still feel good climbing more than that, you're either very underage or your sessions are complete shit.
lmao cope harder';

'I am going bouldering today, I am a bit tired and groggy
But I honestly feel like something within me is suited to this shit and to not go would just be a failure on my part';

'>>194044
yeah there was a time when I'd go over to my friends place and ring the doorbell until he woke up then carpool from there. some people just refuse to set alarms on the weekend
>>194046
you're not even working your muscles the tiniest bit. try something other than jugs the next time larper';

'>>194069
your skin’s going to be the limiting factor if you’re not a punter';

'>>194073
Nah. You can strap your skin.';

'>>194080
and if you’re not a punter, that renders hard sends impossible';

'>>191083
How is that even possible? I was thinking about this as well. She seems to not climb that hard despite having world class coaches for years on end, but 12 years and stuck at v5??

I think there's too many people who pretend climbing is purely a technique based sport, when it's obviously highly physical and pulling hard is its own technique. At some point if you want to climb hard, you're going to need to be able to do 1 arm pull ups, hang 160%+ of your bodyweight on a 20 mm edge, be low bodyfat, etc';

'>>194003
>you're not gonna get rhabdo from climbing desu
I'm less worried about rhabdo specifically and more worried about the same tendencies which led to rhabdo leading to over-training in a way that causes some kind of slow-healing joint injury.

>>194006
Any tips on warmups? What's the deal with hangboards? I used to do fingertip pullups on door frames back in the day and while I don't think I can do that anymore (I don't have good door frames in this house to test) I would like to be able to train at home.

>>194032
>I recommend once every third or fourth day
Once I sign up I have access to the climbing gym on Monday, Wednesday, and Thursday. They have lifting and calisthenics areas and I can hang out and do multiple sessions of whatever pretty much all day (as long as I make time to rest and eat while spending a few dispersed hours at my laptop). Would you recommend working up to a certain standard before spending money on a gym I won't be able to fully utilize?';

'>>194167
1. Cardio (2-5 mins)
2. Dynamic stretching (5 mins)
3. Progressive Climbing (10-20 mins)
Aka climbing V0s before you try something difficult.';

'>>194073
outdoors yes, gym no. been climbing for less than 2 years and the toughness of my finger skin coupled with chalk application every send makes my finger skin invincible compared to the stamina of my fingers and sometimes forearms. can slip off plastic slopers a dozen times and my skin's still ready to go.
>>194166
she did the 9c test and scored way above her actual grade. some people just don't try as hard and or never get over the innate fears involved
>>194167
>warmups
what >>194168 said but add whatever you find necessary. ie. hurting shoulders? do the Hooper's beta shoulder warmup with a stretch band
>hangboards
worth getting one at home but your gym will have several. best thing for beginners to do is nohangs of various grip types (info all over the internet on this). best part is that beginners can do it regularly, and obviously more advanced climbers use the shallower holds in various ways
>working up to a certain standard...
you'll be getting value immediately, no reason to hold off. I'm assuming you can do at least 5 normal pullups, but if not, the other workout equipment makes the membership worth your money. just give yourself rest if and when something feels bad';

'>>194183
well if you’re not a punter, you’ll be climbing predominantly outdoors this time of year';

'My current climbing shoes have only lasted 3 months
I cant be accused of slacking';

'>>194201
how do you determine whether a climbing shoe is still good or not?';

'>>194202
my big toe is about to stick out';

'>>194044
climbing partners try not to quit challenge (difficulty IMPOSSIBLE)
climbing partners try to be consistent challenge (difficulty IMPOSSIBLE)

All of my non-climbing friends who got me started climbing have quit, and I'm still going. At least the friends I've made at the gym are consistent-- don't think they've missed a single day without giving me like a week prior notice that they're going on vacation or something.';

'>>194201
are you sure you're not just wearing them out with bad footwork?';

'>>194198
You know absolutely nothing of climate, geography and seasons. Learn another word you fruit tart';

'>>194220
Dunno maybe a bit
I do go 4 times a week, and my gym has rough walls that are good for smearing';

'>>194230
spoken like a true plastic-fondling punter';

'I really enjoyed bouldering today';

'>>194201
You could be accused of bad footwork.';

'>>194309
Elaborate fuckhead
Should I just avoid smearing?';

'>>194346
No, avoid dragging your toe, practice by using the quiet feet technique.';

'>>194351
toe dragging is pretty fundamental to maintain a 3rd point of contact';

'>>194354
Practice quiet feet anon, stop prematurely wearing out your shoes.
This is a real thing you should work on we're not just giving you shit.';

'>>194354
fucking what? please use your brain, retard. watch some good climbers and see how often they grate their foot across the wall (spoiler: it's never)';

'>>194356
fuck off you insufferable climboid cunt';

'>>194379
What the hell’s wrong witchu? Toe dragging is a bad habit that only destroys your shoes. Get a grip, accept that you’re not as good as you think you are, and work on improving yourself. No bitch to me.';

'>>194356
I do this on slabs sometimes. Is it better to tap the foot up?';

'>>194395
you should place with precision. I can think of examples where you'd be working your way up / across a volume and you want to "bump" your foot across it half a dozen times, but with smearing on an actual slab wall you'll be picking it up and then placing your foot 99% of the time. If your foot is gaining elevation while smearing on slab, you can't apply any meaningful pressure through it when you're moving it up anyway. the only time I would let my foot drag downwards while smearing is immediately after a sketchy catch, and even then I'm hoping the smear sticks immediately instead of dragging any distance.';

'>>194402
for clarification, I mean
>but with smearing on an actual slab wall you'll be picking it up and then placing your foot ONCE (not micro-bumping)';

'>>190595
reel rock seems so gay, and my local is selling tickets for like 30 bucks or something insane like that. are they worth seeing?';

'>>194455
is it part of the tour? last year I saw Seb Bouin. not at the actual showing but the day before at a climbing gym. idk who is showing this year but that might be cool.';

'>>192549
oh shit, just saw this. Take a polishing wheel and an angle grinder to your local problems. Then take a hot, greasy pizza (preferably greek,) and slather that all over the wall. Make sure every decent feature is nice and greased up.
That's how you prep for Pway. Everything is heavily trafficked, granite boulders. Quartz crystals long broken off in favor of the rock underneath. Credit card crimps on slopers, body positioning, and a whole lot of nerve. Fuckin great boulders tho';

'Topped over twenty routes today at a centre I don't go to much
Good, manic fun';

'A bunch of fatty-positive “fit”fluencers have discovered climbing and now a bunch of landwhales are already taking up tripe the space in an already overcrowded gym system filled with faggy techbros and mediocre women interminably plateauing at very soft V4s';

'>>194652
if only there was an easy way to avoid all of those people...';

'I need some motivation or insults. Not the first time here, but I am once again extremely frustrated at not only being more or less stuck at v2/v3 limbo but also I've learned the extremely fun fact I am terrified of moving horizontally over the wall once I am a couple meters off the ground.

Which is dumb when I don't seem to have the same problem with vertical movement on a higher wall but the moment I am standing relatively up and have to do something sideways that looks like it has even a remote chance of me falling I just freeze and bail.

Getting real frustrated at this shit, already complely over my original goal even';

'>>194658
the fags at my crags are worse than the spindly losers at my gyms, though I recognize I live in an abnormal town
>>194663
bouldering I presume. bit of a niched-in fear, no? have you tried horizontal movement (any holds, don't stick to the route) when you're way up on an toprope / autobelay? have you actually practiced good landing form when you're dynoing (and miss) with horizontal momentum while bouldering? you can surely try this out at just a few ft of height, no? you need to work on things to get over your fears, pussy.';

'>>194663
Practice falling until you're good at it and it's boring.';

'>>194684
But how am I supposed to practice slipping my foot, smashing my knee against a hold, and hitting my head on the wall?';

'>>194715
Based on your posts I have complete faith that you are retarded enough to find a way.';

'>>194715
Practice slipping your foot and then not doing those other two things. Alternatively, >>194720';

'Burden just got -2 sends. How the fuck they missed that someone had placed stones to raise the base for easier first move. Considering it's pretty much the crux, there's no argument that "it doesn't matter".';

'>>194727
They could not have missed that they’re at least a couple dozen centimetres higher from the ground than intended. You’d expect elite-lever climbers like them to have more integrity or at the very least be more transparent about these shenanigans.
Lorenzi is almost 10 cm shorter than Bosi but his arms aren’t even nearly as extended. And what the fuck is up with the latest guy? Might as well bring a folding chair and sit start off of that.';

'>>194727
So did Aiden Roberts cheat?';

'>>194762
He hasn’t sent it, and as you can see from the picture, his arms are extended as they should be.';

'>>194764
No idea Roberts was in the pic. I just read he was out there now so figured the post was talking about him. Don’t know who the other two gumbies are to the left of will (since aiden is to his right)';

'>>194727
Kek you can see Elias’ reddit account attacking someone else who holds your view https://www.reddit.com/r/climbing/comments/1bnxhq4/elias_iagnemma_sends_burden_of_dreams_v179a/';

'>>194767
No biggie. The leftmost gumby is Simon Lorenzi and the other one is Elias Iagnemma.';

'did my first 7a today
am I a big boy now?';

'>>194770
grats, indoor or outdoor?';

'>>194771
Indoor, wish it was outdoor but it's hard to find people to climb with. I can barely even find anyone to belay on lead indoors.';

'>>189862
If anyone is even here... can anyone tell me about climbing mountains like Mount Rainier, or Mount Washington, etc?';

'>>194824
>Mount Rainier (/reJˈnJər/ ray-NEER), also known as Tahoma, is a large active stratovolcano in the Cascade Range of the Pacific Northwest in the United States. The mountain is located in Mount Rainier National Park about 59 miles (95 km) south-southeast of Seattle.[3] With a summit elevation of 14,411 ft (4,392 m),[4][5] it is the highest mountain in the U.S. state of Washington, the most topographically prominent mountain in the contiguous United States,[6] and the tallest in the Cascade Volcanic Arc.
>Mount Washington, also known as Agiocochook,[4] is an ultra-prominent mountain in the state of New Hampshire. It is the highest peak in the Northeastern United States at 6,288.2 ft (1,916.6 m) and the most topographically prominent mountain east of the Mississippi River.';

'fuck fuck fuck fuck ive definitely damaged a pulley or tendon in my middle finger, not sure if i should keep climbing while trying some rehabs or take a week off, does emil's hangboarding routine work well as a rehab or should i try something else?
god dammit just when when the climbing season started too :(((((((';

'>>194848
this video will be worth your time. you shouldn't be doing anything at all for the next week.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_AxN5HyBLfM';

'>>190010
>>189933
>>189923


Sandpaper off the calluses and you won't get flappers';

'>>194848
I'm in the same boat brother LMK if you find out anything';

'Is jap gyms being graded tough a meme?
The 6b+ in the new PewDiePie video look very doable for a noob';

'>>194931
I dunno but I heard that gyms in East Asia are generally very new school so it might be the case that just comparing grades doesn’t make sense.';

'How much do climbing irl coaches charge?';

'>>194959
about tree fiddy';

'>start going to the bouldering gym
>it's fun
>back in february get my right shoulder dislocated during a fall, wasn't even a big fall. But I had the same shoulder dislocated in a kayak episode last august, so it may have been weak still.
>a few days ago, go to the gym again for the first time since the injury
>20 minutes into the session I dislocate the left shoulder (never had that one injured before)
>this happened during a descent where I was tired and trying to climb down fast, my body got a swing around while I was holding a grip with the left hand, and that's all I remember
can anyone relate? I'm definitively out of the game for a while now, if not for good. plan is to train the stabilizer muscles in both shoulders, after that maybe try rope climbing, or bouldering again, but only doing 2/3 and then jumping so I can land on the feet.';

'>>195085
>can anyone relate?
no. if this happened to me I would never boulder again, or at least not for years until I knew for certain that rehab+strengthening exercises had fixed the root issue.
rope climbing should be fine once you heal, but even then you're going to want strengthening work just so that climbing itself doesn't injure your shoulders (which is relatively common even in individuals without pre-existing shoulder problems).
and if you're going to lead climb, you absolutely need to use a stick clip.';

'>>195085
I'd tell you to learn to fall but I think you actually shouldn't fall at all anymore.';

'>>195085
Tons of MP threads on this. TL;DR do physiotherapy and you'll be fine. Unless you've torn your labrum or whatever.
https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/123308485/shoulder-injury-while-climbing
https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/114276664/dislocated-shouler-and-the-necessity-for-surgery
https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/124355024/climbing-after-shoulder-dislocation';

'>>195092
>torn your labrum
My friend did this and I entertained myself by poking the general area of his injury while declaring I was fingering his shoulder labia.';

'Last 2 sessions have been phenomenal lads, feels really good. sending routes with brutal crimps I wouldn't have dreamed of sending just a few months ago';

'Going to squamish soon, anyone got that squamish bouldering ebook?';

'>>195105
What grade?
How long you been climbing?';

'I am a complete loser and just as I was going to move near Yosemite and be a climbing bum I got a girlfriend in this city.

What do I do anons? Climbing or pussy?

And I also have a productive request.
Strong climbers train. I assume their weeks and days are structured in some way. What do your weeks look like, anon? What's your favorite resource on how to train, how to structure everything, etc? What does an ideal gym session look like? Is it really all just finger strength and technique?';

'>gym is totally infested with lefty/trannyism
>I'm one of many who have plateau'd at V4/V5 level
>just want to get to a respectable level and send impressive grades';

'>>195152
respectable grades and impressive sends are outside, lefties and trannies are not outside, why are you still in the gym?';

'>>195113
V2 and 5.9. Three years';

'>>195113
bad perspective brah. how rewarding a breakthrough is at v5 versus v10 only matters if you aren't enjoying climbing itself.
>>195161
kek
>>195140
you chose one of the worst places to ask. do you think many people here actually "train"? do research.
>>195152
are you measuring your metrics a few times a year (max hangs, max weighted pullup, etc.? have you filmed yourself on a board problem, then filmed again on the same problem months later to compare? you're responsible for finding your personal bottlenecks (unless you want to pay for a coach).';

'someone near me is selling an ocun incubator for like 250 bucks, does anyone have any experience with the pad? seems like an absolute steal but not sure how hard it would be to carry two pads with it';

'>>195140
>Climbing or pussy?
If she's just pussy to you go climbing. Building a future with a wife is based but wasting time, energy, and opportunities on whores is cringe. It's easy enough to find wet holes with a climber's physique, don't derail your life for a temporary cocksleeve.';

'>>195152
>impressive
who are you trying to impress';

'Does anyone have any idea if this is just a sole repair or if I need a toe rand as well?';

'>>195140
I read the rock climbers training manual (RCTM), followed by logical progression (LP). I am doing the LP basic nonlinear program and seeing good gains.

No, I train mental aspect as well. I read the rock warriors way and have yet to read vertical mind and mastermind. I also read 9 out of 10 climbers.

Also, there is tactics, such as redpoint tactics and strategy which is covered at the end of the RCTM.

For skill development I record myself using a tripod and OnForm, and try to read and do skills drills from the Self Coached Climber.

I also like some podcasts like the training beta, the power company, some of the struggle depending on the guest. And YouTube channels like ClimbStrong, Dave McLeod etc.

This is just for indoors. For outdoors stuff like trad, multipitch etc there are a lot more books and websites I read and listen to.';

'>>195225
Probably yes but it depends. Is the toe area “squishy” or soft compared to a new shoe? In that case you’ve worn through some or most of the rand and need a rand repair. But you might be able to call the shop and ask them not to do the rand repair if you don’t want it. Just know that if you do that you might blow throw the rand before you wear out the new sole.

Also most shops have the option for “let us decide if it needs a rand repair” and I usually go with that';

'How can one man be so based?';

'>>195269
I agree Dave is amazing but.. He’s starting to shill magnus meatball. Which worries me. The magnus guy is decidedly not based, just super mega money whore';

'>>195271
What's wrong with making a living while promoting the sport? Has Magnus done something unethical that I'm not aware of?';

'bros, I've come to the realization that the campus board is the stupidest fucking thing in every gym. it's COMPLETELY USELESS for your climbing ability when compared to just climbing on moon/kilter/tension board. the only exception is party-trick gym boulder problems with big, forced, successive campus moves that you would never once encounter during a lifetime of climbing outdoors. these party-trick gym boulders are stupid and not worth anyone's time.

you could argue that the campus board is still a good tool for occasionally testing yourself, but I disagree. 1-4-7/1-5-8/1-5-9 are all extremely crude metrics and there are a dozen more-precise ways for climbers to test their metrics. these rungs being in every gym is the biggest meme in climbing.';

'>>195269
His interview with Neil Gresham is damned good. Highly recommend everyone to watch it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I2wgXc_blao

>>195271
The new video they did in the mountains is really good though. Projecting in wind strong enough to literally flip a lorry to its side.';

'>>195282
Shilling your overpriced inferior or same as products to normies is cringe. Doing things for money not because you love it is cringe. Magnus has admitted he’s a whore for views. I don’t have anything against Dave just worried he might get caught up with the Magnus stuff and start shilling his products which IMO are AG1 tier';

'>>195301
His training for bouldering and hangboarding videos are also really good fyi. Highly recommend 9/10 climbers as well';

'Gunna be a bunch of dorks climbing cause of that pewdipie video. Although he is much funnier than I thought, and climbing along the river in the japanese mountains looks enchanting';

'>>195364
>Gunna be a bunch of dorks climbing cause of that pewdipie video.
Anon, is your gym really not filled with a bunch of dorks?
It has the biggest dorks of any place I've been.
Has cool people too though.';

'>>195388
my gym is 80% dyel asians, lesbians and other unlikable faggots. then 15% are annoyingly meek white guys who walk away within a minute when you try to talk to them, so only 1 in 20 or so are actually interesting people to talk to.
also, pretty big difference between the insufferable software faggot dorks and your average youtube-watching dork.';

'>>195392
This is what's been keeping me out of the climbing gym and outside climbing trees and big rocks instead, anytime I go in to check one out it's staffed and attended by some of the most actively unlikable people I've encountered anywhere.
>also, pretty big difference between the insufferable software faggot dorks and your average youtube-watching dork.
The former is a subset of the latter. YouTube dorks are a pretty diverse demographic.';

'>>195392
Probably the people walking away within 1 minute are doing a timed workout or trying to stick to a training schedule and have better things to do than talk to you anon';

'>>195392
>why isn't this random dude talking with me for more than a minute

you are out of touch with reality';

'>>195392
Sure we can chat, but on my list of priorities for the session, talking to some rando is quite a few rungs below climbing.';

'>>195152
>38 year old construction worker
>come from an environment where everyone says what they think straight without a modern political bullshit filter
>everytime someone says anything to me it feels like I'm standing on a fucking minefield

Been close a few times but it's only a matter of time and to be honest, it'll be really hard to resist slapping some sense into a screaming leftie.';

'>>195456
>>195445
>>195458
they're usually projecting 5.10b on autobelay with no friends in the gym. sounds like you 4cdn.org shut-ins have trouble in social settings (real shocker)';

'>>195470
Sounds like you're the one having trouble in social settings if you're consistently getting the cold shoulder from complete gumbies with no friends.';

'>>195470
I guess some people see the gym for socializing and others see it for training. Those people probably see it for training. It’d be like if someone was squatting at the gym and you randomly come up to them and start making small talk. They came to workout not to chat with some guy they’ll never see again. Doing aerobic training or skill drills on autobelay is legit.

Also just my controversial opinion but doing toprope or lead climbing at a commercial gym is kinda a waste of time if you’re looking to train. If you’re doing it for the social aspect good on you though. It was actually Matty Hong the groomer who mentioned it on a podcast and I tend to agree with him';

'>>195499
Matty Hong fucking sucks';

'>>195501
Because of him being a groomer or because he is a middling climber? I like his films and think his opinion to not rope climb in a gym is good';

'>>192098
>dry

Were you climbing in Yosemite after a rain storm?';

'sometimes I feel like climbing is becoming a chore and I feel like everything is too easy or too hard, but then I get completely revitalised by a route reset and look forward to it again
also, going to different gyms helps';

'One whole year of bouldering (so nothing) has made me lean, itchy (from sweat rashes), with plenty of grazed skin that doesn't seem to heal';

'>>195503
Middling climber who similarly makes mid films that only retards enjoy since they are easily impressed with shitty editing and filmmaking as long as there are random sequences of cuts of nature.';

'>>195545
He's sent 9b and 8C.';

'>>195545
Are you cool with him fucking Margo and now Angie though? Seems pretty based to be getting that 19 y.o. pussy';

'>>195503
>>195499
Same shit opinion as following some kind of fad diet or training plan. It may work for some retard who has no life and lives under a cliff and climbs with another aspie who also has no life. But for everyone else gym is fine and will be enough for their needs';

'>>195548
I don’t follow nor give a fuck about female climbers. They ruin the crag and gyms';

'>>195562
The comment is that roped climbing at a gym is a waste of time, not climbing at a gym in general. Bouldering is more time efficient and will get you stronger and more powerful than doing laps on top rope or lead at a gym.

You are spending roughly 50% of the time belaying when doing roped climbs, and the majority of the moves are “junk moves” not really training much except endurance or power endurance, both of which can be trained more targeted using a different method';

'>>195565
>and the majority of the moves are “junk moves”
ahahaha knew you fucking faggots fit the description of shy loner projecting 10b on autobelay. if you're going to insist on being retarded you will never be a good climber.';