'I’m planning to revisit my Dark Angels and found my old Interrogator Chaplain that I made when I was a kid. I touched him up a little bit but wasn’t sure if he could use something else. How’s he look? I was mostly thinking if I should add anything to the sides of the scroll and skull on his back, maybe some candles or incense like he was a waking altar, but I don’t know if that’s too much.';

'£300 commission btw';

'>>92580892
People are really paying up this much?';

'>>92580892
I should start doing commissions lmao';

'>>92580892';

'>>92580727
Still far from done, but at least most of the base colours are done

>>92580887
He looks good. I wouldn't really add anything, there's a lot of details to look at already in my opinion.

>>92580892
Ooof, really? Well, he should buy a nail clipper with those 300 bucks

>>92580937
Yeah kek';

'>>92580892
>$370 for what looks like ~2 hours of sloppy garbage
Damn, I'm in the wrong line of work.';

'>>92580892
I did a wedding commission for free for someone and it still turned out better than this, who actually pays for this kind of quality?';

'Still lots of work to make them fit into my traitor guard army, but at least i got all the parts now and i can start a final cleanup, and then assembly with glue.';

'>>92580892
This was before you stripped and repainted it right?';

'>>92581173
Facebook is full of fools with too much money, so feel free to over your services in the huge 40k groups. You will get DMs, if you aren't living in some 3rd world country without proper shipping options.';

'I'm primarily an airbrush guy and have way too many lacquer paints for airbrushing and have next to no acrylics. But I've gotten into 3d mini painting recently. What paints do you guys recommend? I have a bunch of vallejo model color paints from way back but the colors don't really fit with anything I plan on handpainting. Should I get a bunch of vallejo game colors or is there something better? This isn't for tabletop gaming, just painting models to look nice';

'ever get really really into a project and knock out nearly all the painting in a single sitting? yeah anyway.
>Shuugash, Daemon Prince of Nurgle';

'>>92580892
You got scammed';

'>>92580892
Is it comparable to the other work of his that you had seen before you agreed to that price? If not you should ask for a discount. It's not bad, there are some nice aspects but the price is too high for the quality. It's a higher level tabletop standard. For that much money in todays hard economy it should win a golden demon. I'd say no more than 150 is fair for his time and effort supplies and shipping and I personallywouldn't go above 120. It's probably 10 hours work or less so at 15 an hour $150 is the max and the base is nice and there's a lot of trim and detail so you could negotiate a little if you want to be generous but he's asking too much for his skill level even though I'm sure it looks better in person. I do like it. Just too pricey. Either way you have a collectible piece now.';

'>>92581284
Nice palette';

'>>92581284
Love it, that´s a whole lot of bits.
Is that a tyranid arse for a neck. I´ll copy that with beefier arms for when ill start a nurgle army.';

'>>92581284
Hey, I think I saw this on reddit the other day.

Just kidding anon, looks good. I think the fleshy bit could look a bit more diseased though.. some slight pink or blue on the veins perhaps?';

'>>92581382
its a whole Psychophage upside down lmao. kits used:
>psychophage
>bloat drone
>daemon prince
>helbrute
>possessed
>deathshroud terminators
plus a decent bit of milliput

>>92581395
lmao, yeah the veins were a bit more pink at one point but washes/highlights etc just kinda faded them. will probably bring it back, still got a decent bit to go.';

'>>92580892
So maybe we're misunderstanding. Did you paint it for someone else or is that what you were charged? If you are painting it for someone else you should discount them some because although it's good it's not worth that price. Or include a few extras you might have lying around. Like i said there's good aspects to it. Just too pricey.';

'>>92580892
As in you were paid £300, or you paid someone for this?
I could do a better job with contrast paints followed by a gold trim and a strong tone wash.
Look at the blade handle

>>92581284
I love when people are adventurous with models like daemon princes which give a real opportunity for conversions

This looks great. The proportions are odd, but I think that adds to the charm.
I think there needs to be more contract between flesh and metal though - make the flesh more pale/sickly and the armour more green. Bit like this guy (not my mini, just found quickly on google)';

'>>92581493
His one eye stares into my soul, make it stop';

'>>92581493
ty for the kind words anon, really appreciate it. will work more on the skin! here is the back of the model';

'>>92578162
any tips on making it more orange? I'm already using pure orange in the deepest recesses, and want to leave some metal exposed so they still read as actual weapons, but yeah I would like it to be a touch more vibrant. maybe I start mixing in yellow for rust highlights? idk how that will end up looking over the brown/metallic tones though';

'>>92581561
Yeah, do a nice drybrush followed by a dark wash for a very simple effect that'll show off the textures.
Or some heavy edge highlighting with progressively lighter green to white';

'>>92581284
You did that pronto quicktime, holy shit';

'>>92581779
Yeah I've got my DG recipe pretty locked in at this point. Don't really have to think too much while painting so that speeds it up.

>>92581670
:thumbsup:';

'>>92581797
Sure. We believe you. The model is already done and you are feeding us old pictures in rapid secession right? You can be honest with us anon. You've already done the whole army right?';

'>>92581870
I mean yeah most of my DG army is done, but I did do the painting for the Daemon Prince in a day.';

'>>92581883
Nice mechs';

'>miniature painting class
LMAO What the fuck is this shit';

'>>92582133
>painting class';

'Despite your advice on not using oils in such a small mini, I did it anyway.
Did I fuck up or improve it somewhat?
Notice the photo looks brighter now, but the shadows are the same color as they were in the 'before' it's just that it looks brighter overall because of the lighting';

'>>92582133
>t. grog who still uses basecoat + ink "technique" and calls his childish slop "SOVL"';

'>>92581357
>>92581442
>>92581493
>>92580727
I did not purchase it, it was something I saw on twitter from the painter himself.
He has since locked down his twitter after being ridiculed';

'>>92582164
Well, it looks smoother now so I'd call that a success';

'>>92582222
I see. Well it's not terrible like I said, it's just too pricey. And with a little touchup and more shading it could look much better. I'm betting it was done with minimum magnification. People are too critical now over stuff that isn't their own. In the end it's just a model and if the customer is happy that's fine. The contract is between the artist and the customer. Nothing else matters';

'>>92582164
It's better. Blended smoother and that's the oil advantage. Good job.';

'>>92582306
>Well it's not terrible like I said
srry wat?, I can't imagine how it can be any worse other that not painting between the lines
even just 4 basecolors with actually thinned paint would look miles better';

'>>92580892
Makes me want to vomit';

'>>92582399
Consider the work and color selections already done. The gold needs cleaning with blue, but with a silver added to gold highlights are a quick addition, the fingers are good, the face is good, the metallic gun and halo is good, the sword needs a more realistic flame but that's easy to fix, and the chest needs more roundness overall, give me an hour and I could bring it up to a model worthy of any player's standard, give me three and I'll make it sing. It's just in that phase between being mostly done and actually done that always looks bad. I'm sure in person without magnification it looks fine on a table. The sword is the worst part and the glaring error of gold on the gap between the shoulder pad and the chest. Fix those two things and it's table top ready.';

'>>92582487
300 buckos, nothing against taking commisions. But i would be ashamed to deliver something for that price.';

'>>92582503
Agreed and I've already said that. The price is the problem. But if the customer was happy it doesn't matter. It's just not a competitive price. Again there's a lot of work there because of the trim. It just needs a little more. The line between almost done and completely done gets thinner as you work. Like last night I worked for 10 hours on something that needed just a little more. Now it's done. That ten hours felt long but I can rest now and my client is happy. So even though I made practically nothing per hour I keep a client that has and will continue sending me work until he or I dies. It's worth the effort to not quit and push on through. That's all that model needs. A little more push and it'll be good';

'forgot to shorten the barrel but it does look alot more like a flamethrower now';

'gotta tidy him up, but this looks right for 30k NL so far';

'>>92582581
That's badass. Papercraft wargaming. Nice. Flame on!';

'Anyone have any experience with italeri?';

'>Undercoated some models yesterday
>They are already full of dust
Fuck.';

'>>92582601
Nice violet black, what paint did you use.';

'>>92582619
if you mean the armour, its night lords blue and kantor blue kinda shoddily mixed together, 2:2';

'>>92582611
Paint? No. Models yes. I bought cheap roman soldiers and vikings.The plastic is soft rubbery so durable. But hard to clean mold lines becausedurable but still worth it because price was right for lots of soldiers, cute little guys surprisingly detailed for scale, liked the horse especially, but check scale because they are small. Just make sure you wash in soapy water and rinse well and prime correctly with very fine brush on layer because spray will obscure the detail if the models are really small like mine and the plastic doesn't hold paint like at all so you need a more well done priming layer.';

'>>92582133
They're painting more than you though...';

'>>92582611
kits are okay, if they are new
paints are rebranded vallejo if i'm not mistaken';

'>>92582164
Put a little bit of your oil either on the base rim or on something else you can keep with the mini. That will let you check to see if its fully dry without having to touch the mini itself.';

'>>92582624
Ah thanks. I knew it had to be a custom mix. Never seen that shade in commercial paint. It's almost violet but not quite. Contrast shyish purple is close but on the other side of violet.';

'>>92582624
So 1:1';

'>>92581272
Buy whatever colors, it's basically all the same shit. Vallejo game tends to be less opaque and is usually more saturated colors, valejo mode Ted's to be denatured stuff or earth tones. They're all good colors either way, and so are whichever other brand. It's all MOSTLY price difference between them and not quality difference
I would recommend just going to the local shop and buying whatever colors you think you need for a given model rather than just grabbing fistful of paint at random';

'>>92582685
Thats a great idea
Would blasting it with an airdryer make it dry faster?';

'>>92582718
No, 76:76';

'>>92582731
I meant 1 pot : 1 pot ratio';

'>>92582164
Looks very good anon, the oils were a nice touch';

'>>92582726
Like any paint the risk to speeding up the drying process is shrinking/flaking/cracking/peeling from uneven drying. I have heard that some oil painters use heated boxes to slowly "bake" the canvas and help it dry faster, but I have no experience with that stuff. Oil painting is definitely a more laid back process, one of the reasons that I enjoy it.';

'>>92582726
Not really. Maybe a little but oil paint is like a polymer resin and requires time to oxidize. And heat can cause it to spontaneously combust especially if solvent is used. Runaway thermal reactions are possible with rags you use to clean up too especially if solvents. So wash rags with soap and allow to dry slowly in buckets of water before discarding but with minis not usually enough to worry about unless left in a hot car or near heat source. A dryer might help oil paint on mini polymerize faster and some artists do it briefly but not much faster drying and if dries too fast it contracts too much and can crack or warp a thin board or plastic part. Generally that doesn't happen but canvas painters are aware of strange things that can happen. Another risk of oils is yellowing as the paint ages on the model. Again using so little not much of an issue and exposure to sunlight will bleach it again removing yellowing but the colors white and yellow do the most yellowing, but most white today is made from safflower oil instead of linseed to avoid yellowing but safflower paint is physically softer and dries more slowly, linseed is much stronger binder but has yellowing issues.';

'>>92582740
Is that 1 gallon to one gallon or 24 barrels to 24 barrels?';

'>>92582665
>>92582679
Ye, meant the models. I am specifically looking at getting into my first WW2 wargaming, and their kits looked loke they have a good bang to buck ratio (and if the wargaming doesn't suit me, they still looked like decent diorama pieces)';

'Touchup time, the white especially firmed up nicely.';

'>>92582581
>Imagine buying your models instead of just printing them
Sick work anon.';

'>>92582967
I haven't bought any italeri models besides those figures but they are an old company well respected so I'm sure they're fine. Most likely typical testor type plastic injection molded tree sprues made of styrene I'm guessing unless their dioramas are resin. Model cement might be necessary to finish the kit so check that on youtube. Classic testors model cement is nasty though so unless kit is push fit and no cement needed try getting non toxic model cement or using super glue when you can get away with it even though super glue is bad too. I used to use model cement all the time, now one whiff and immediate splitting headache. With superglue i can hold my breath long enough a strong fan near a door or window allows me to use a drop here or there. It's much more brittle though and doesn't fuse the parts together the same way. Get some tubber bands for holding model together when drying glues.';

'>>92583045
Very nice. That white helmet dude better have strong drugs in his bag. Stuffs about to go down.';

'>>92583045
very good, love the way oil looks when its done well.';

'I've decided to bite the bullet and try painting by my own damn self. Most of the minis I wanna paint have skin showing, so would it be best having my first one be one with skin showing, or is it easier to start with something like a rounder space marine?';

'>>92583174
Depends on your schedule, both ways can work and can teach you things but eventually you'll need to paint flesh';

'>>92583174
Space marines are a bitch to paint. That's the strange paradox. We paint a ton of them but they are hard. Better start with the flesh, pick a flesh color and pick a dark tan or brown, mix small amount of your flesh color into it and make that your darkest color and start painting the underside and crevices of the model with that, add more flesh color as you paint more of the flesh until you've almost covered the skin then start adding a little orangeish tan and white as you add highlights. Done. Simple as.';

'Anyone 3D print their own minis? Considering buying a printer instead of having people print them for me, not sure what the break even point is though or if its worth it.';

'flora is (almost) done, only fauna missing';

'>>92583246
>>92583257
Gotcha, thanks!';

'>>92583322
Yes but resin is highly toxic, need dedicated space and serious ventilation systems and special safety equipment to use and clean the models and machine. Entry level for machine and resin 300 dollars, alcohol and extra safety equipment another 50 to 100. For most people the safety risk isn't worth it, plus some people can't be around the resin at all, causes severe reactions in a good amount of people and you can develop sensitivity over time. There are special difficult to work with resins that help with that but in general it's not worth it if you have children or pets and you don't have a separate shed to run the machine in. The companies don't tell you how involved resin printing actually is. Filament fdm printing is much less dangerous but then you are dealing with heat and that's more for mechanical parts not for detailed miniatures. If interested make friends with someone who already does it to see if you can be around the resin and if it looks like something you'd want to invest in before spending any money.';

'>>92582967
>ww2 wargaming
Just play ASL with minis, been doing it for years now. Don't see the point of playing with other rulesets, they are all inferior for that scale of play.';

'>>92583335
Pretty. What fauna? Also jelly of your citadel flip tops. Share collection';

'>>92583322
Pricing wise you easily beat GW, even if you buy the files you print.
It isn't as bad as the other Anon says it is, but it a bit more involved. You don't want to be in the same room as a running printer for safety reasons, as there are no long term studies on the health risks involved. And as usual, fumes affect smaller creatures more, so don't keep birds or insects in the room. Or allow anything that would touch the uncured resin without gloves near it, while operating. Resin allergy is build up by contact with it, so it is easy to get careless because nothing seems to be happening at first.
Unless you want to heat the entire room to above 25°C, you'll need to put the printer into an enclosure, or install a small heater into the chamber.
I have mine in the basement, in a room I only have to enter to quickly grab stuff while it is printing, and easy to air out. So unless you have a room like that, or are willing to build an airtight enclosure with a ventilation system for it, it is probably not worth the health risk. You can get a fine printer for less than building the heated ventilation chamber will cost you though.';

'>92583479
>What fauna
a crow (you can find it in the photo with no feet)

>Also jelly of your citadel flip tops. Share collection
I got a truckload of them from a friend, half of them where rock solid and went to the trash, most others where pretty much dry and restoring them wasnt completely succesful so are only good for drybrusing or sketchy washes (like for terrain), the actual inks where golden

can't be bothered to take them all out, have a photo of the whole closet';

'>>92583479
>>92583723
missed a >';

'>>92583335
I need to start putting some actual effort into my bases.';

'>>92583723
God damn that looks so comfy to paint at.';

'>>92580892
Good hustle, who's the retard paying for that?';

'>>92583757
its not a gaming base, is just for decoration
but pls do, basing is fun';

'>>92583757
Even if it comes out looking stupid, it is still pretty fun to do custom bases';

'>>92583757
>>92583807
>its not a gaming base
this are';

'>>92582967
https://www.baccus6mm.com/catalogue/

Italeri is very nice but imo better suited for dioramas than wargaming. 6mm is small, but for a typical ww2 engagement you want small unless you want to break immersion or take up an entire room. Even at the 6mm scale (i.e.1:285)things are still pretty large. Tge ASL suggestion by the other anon for instance is typically on 1-1.5km^2, at 1:285 that would still require 3-4m for true scale.';

'>>92583963
>he doesn't have a 4x4m table for his immersive TTG experience.
Not even trying.';

'>>92583963
>metal
Surely there is a comoany that does plastic ww2 @6mm. Those metal casts look terrible, like truly atrocious.';

'A final (for now) update on Shuugash. Few touchups, brought back the pink in the flesh, light highlights on the armor etc. Really happy with this, easily the best model I've ever done.';

'I think I'm done with it? It's hard to know what to add/correct in such a high concept idea, the more I clean up and do normal stuff the further from the original idea it gets yknow';

'>>92584195
I added some green tones behind that kinda go out of the dusk theme but idk it makes it weirder that a colour appears just behind as if the spiral swallowed the dusk and expelled green yknow';

'>>92584195
>>92584212
I like it, as you said its very high concept and artistic but its nice, and it fits tzeentch well. Good job.';

'>>92582306
are you Canadian?';

'>>92584231
Thanks anon, I think I bit off more than I could chew since I usually paint with more desaturated and less varied palettes but it's nice pushing myself out of my comfort zone (i.e. skeletons and gothic shit)';

'>>92584245
No fren. Why do ask?
>>92584195
>>92584212
Really pretty
>>92584179
You do work fast';

'>>92580727
I just finished him, I laughed because the original head I was going to use and finished did not fit on the model so I had to paint that one';

'>>92583963
ASL anon here. 6mm on a large table would be ideal, but sadly 6mm looks like utter ass. Fine if that is your starting point, but in ASL the starting point is art on chits, which is honestly very decent and in every way preferable to 6mm figures (at least in the shit quality that they are produced today).

We play 15mm on a table about 3x4m and we accept that the scale of the map is not the same as the scale of the figures. 15mm is incredibly popular (within wargaming that is) so you have lots of choice, they are also plastic which is simply easier to paint and they actually LOOK GOOD.

More recently we've been getting the victrix range @12mm, which is a werid scale, but they are very cheap for excellent quality. They also do armor. Since the terrain/map is not at the 15mm scale of our units anyway, switching to 12mm won't be an issue.';

'>>92583723
Oh yes! Elf flesh is the superior flesh. If you ever need a match fairy flesh from nocturna should match';

'>>92584439
Looks great
>>92584452
Love the soldiers so cute';

'>>92584439
3d printed base. Nice';

'>>92584452
>6 stug
>under 30 yurobucks
This pleases me. Stug 2 cute to resist. If only they also had the hetzer.';

'>>92584179
I'm the guy that suggested the lighter tone - I think it looks great. Nice bit of contrast between flesh and steel';

'>>92584476
I paint skellingtons, I almost never use flesh color';

'>>92584195
>>92584212
very tzeentch and very cool
my favourite bits are the swirly magic and the blue part of the dress';

'>>92583689
>>92583458
Thanks anons. I'll probably hold off on it for now until I can build some kind of cuckshed to do stuff like that in';

'Is it worth using oils for minipainting? Or it's too much of a hassle?
I don't mean exclusively, but as a complement to acrylics like this anon >>92582164 did';

'>>92584782
Depends. If you hate waiting for paint to dry and dislike the smell of acetone, then it's too much of a hassle.';

'>Love the concept of Son of Horus and their empty suits of armor
>Don't like the too obviously Egyptian theme
I can't convert a whole army, can I?';

'Any oil painters in chat?
Do you guys seal everything with matt varnish when youre done? I feel like a matt varnish will take away some of the majesty of the oil. But some of my oil minis feel weird to the touch and some parts are still a little too shiny even after weeks of drying';

'>>92584961
You mean Thousand Sons?';

'>>92584985
sup.
>Do you guys seal everything with matt varnish when youre done?
Yes you have to with oils even a wash it will rub off super easy if you dont.
You dont have to matte seal it you can gloss or satin varnish it, it just has to be sealed one way or the other.';

'>>92584991
Oh, yeah.. getting my sons mixed up.';

'>>92584782
You can do a lot that oils can do without using them, it depends what you're considering them for.';

'>>92584428
Thanks anon
>>92584740
Thanks! Yeah they were the most fun parts to paint too actually, the swirly part i struggled a bit to find which colours to put where yknow, but I decided to blackline it and it really tied it together I feel.';

'>>92584541
From a TTG perspective 40k/AoS are so overpriced it hurts.
An entire 1:1 company for 70 bucks. Like wtf, here's me painting a 12 figure killteam for more than that.';

'>>92585048
what are sealing it with? A special varnish or will my Ak Ultra Matte be good enough?';

'>>92584961
>I can't
Anon this thread is for pigheaded artists only, now get your ass out there and spend 14 months painstakingly converting models that will look 'not bad I guess' when you're done, like God intended.';

'>>92585256
>artists only
Except that one pigheaded anon who thinks we're not artists.';

'>>92585256
Of course I will, just thinking what I'll use. I'm cool with egyptians, but it's too on the nose for me.';

'>>92585270
Well I meant autists actually but spellcheck cucked me as punishment for trying to post on mobile
Eh, potato potato';

'>>92585281
If you hadn't said anything I wouldn't have known, works both ways.';

'>>92585250
Allow me to show you the greatest matte varnish out there.
https://a.co/d/aMq7sdQ
Best dullcoat matte finish varnish IMO. Just use it outside, shit smells like pool cleaner.';

'>>92584782
From last thread an old model of mine that I did that on, I liked the results and learned a lot during the process.';

'>>92585250
I use ak ultra matte from the air brush on dry oils and it works just fine.';

'>>92585292
oh ya? what makes this shit so good?';

'>>92585326
He was cooler before oils imho. I think oil washes just... wash out stuff and make it look samey, your cool saturated colours have been grimderpified. I mean it works and I'm happy and can see how you'd like it more but man did he pop before.';

'>>92585326
That looks great anon, is that contrast or inks?

I've got a lil bit left to do on this chap but happy with his progress';

'>>92585390
I think anon was pretty heavy with his oil wash by the looks of things and didn't remove as much as most people would. They can end up either as a filter of varying degree which is what he did, or almost akin to a regular acrylic wash but with better blending and no unintentional staining. Also doesn't help that it looks like the oil wash was the final step and no further layering or highlighting went over it.';

'I've been doing oil washes recently and sometimes they come out really good, but on my last couple I darkened my wash too much and didn't remove enough and it looks really different from my other models
You need real skill to do oil washes, Nuln Oil chuds wouldn't understand';

'>>92585349
Its just a great dullcoat, sucks the shine outta everything which if you are looking for a matte finish its the way to go.
And a dab will do you.';

'>>92585508
>You need real skill to do oil washes
Honestly....not really. The only "Skill" you need to learn is mixing the right amount of paint and thinner to get the opacity you want, which you can learn how to do after the first few times. Its not hard at all.';

'>when u paint ur minis
:)
>when u finish all ur minis and you don't have anymore to paint
:(';

'>>92585599
Been in teh hobby way to long, and have way to big of a shelf of shame to know this issue. Its more like
>when u paint ur minis
:)
>When you finish painting your mini and realize you still have a massive backlog
:<';

'>>92585599
>when u finish all ur minis and you don't have anymore to paint
I read somewhere that if you paint your entire backlog you die.';

'>>92583045
Oil suits these guys, they look suitably earthy, like they're at Vraks.';

'>>92585628
>f you paint your entire backlog you die.
REAL SHIT?!
>Begins to paint my back log as fast and shitty as possible.';

'>>92580892
What the fuck, how could it be worse, did a child paint this?';

'>>92583257
>Space marines are a bitch to paint
No they aren't. Literally the only thing easier to paint is necrons.';

'>>92580727
am I putting on primer wrong or something?
>both vallejo black and tamiya white rattlecan primers
>apply thinly to keep a smooth finish
>wait a day or so before painting
>pro acryl and vallejo and MSPbones paints all have trouble adhering, exacerbated if I thin the paint at all
once I get a base layer down I can paint without issue and nothing seems to peel with subsequent layers or varnishing but it's making those first steps so much more tedious';

'>>92585628
I am IMMORTAL!';

'Here's a weird one; I have a bottle of Woodland Scenics Water Effects that I'm using with (also Woodland Scenics) modeling snow to make a snow effect on bases for my kill team. After about 8 hours, the water effects have partially cured... and are a yellowish-green color that looks pretty horrible. Sealed bottle, just opened today. Is this a normal part of the curing process before it goes clear? I'm sure I'll see in the morning if it does, just checking if I did something wrong.';

'>>92585839
Pretty much all clear resins will yellow over time due to UV exposure. But also just because the bottle is new for you doesn't mean it is actually new bottle. See if you can find a manufacture date on it as it could be old, as age can negatively affect UV resins.';

'>>92585868
That's the odd thing - perfectly white out of the bottle, it's only yellow after partial curing. Maybe a new bottle would be worth trying though. No manufacture date on the bottle itself.';

'>>92585903
Yeah not sure what the answer might be. I can only give you what I know about other UV resins, which I assume this is too. Otherwise if it is a 2 part mix then could still suffer from age, but might be a result of an unbalanced mix. Always hard to tell with this shit unfortunately.';

'is it possible to use a spray varnish on top of dirty down rust?';

'>>92585918
It's single part, just squeezes out of a bottle. Any chance you'd have an alternative to recommend, while I'm already looking at getting a different bottle? I'm just doing snow with it, so something that's not super thin and runny would be nice.';

'>>92585931
That makes it sound like a UV resin in that case. Before trying anything else try putting the base/model in direct sunlight for a while and see if that helps as maybe it is just not curing quick enough. Otherwise couldn't really recommend anything as I don't use those sorts of resins for that kind of purpose, I only deal with them for 3D printing. But depending on the effect you are after there are probably some decent non-resin based options available.';

'>>92583090
>>92583121
Thank you kindly, glad its all coming together well. The ugly phase with oils is until like the last 10% so more than once I've had to wipe a model off completely and start over because something didn't pan out.

>>92585641
Thank you, I put a nice solid coat of burnt orange on the coats then an ivory zenithal, the burnt orange in the shadows really helped to add some depth to the shadows and look less boring.';

'>>92585390
>>92585467
I did the oil wash then blended in highlights and shadows in afterwards using the base colors as a starting point. Lots of mistakes were made on this guy (can you believe I tried to do tiger stripes on the leather cape). Big one is that I misjudged how much the oils would matte out when dry and got fooled by the shine from the wet oil. All of my highlights ended up too dark and my shadows not dark enough, but it was a good experience. I finally finished that side of the dominion box but I've been thinking about stripping them and starting over. Wasn't really satisfied with how a lot of the first guys I painted came out and want to apply what I've learned since. They were also fun models to paint so I wouldn't mind another go.';

'>>92583807
Where did you get that dome piece man. I want some, to try making such display pieces.';

'I'll be the first to admit, the models are shit, but it's honestly super fun painting these guys at such a small scale. Batch painting actually feels like you make progress and when you want to crank up the detail there's things like the command squad to do so.';

'>>92586051
I just realized I put a DG transfer on my NL banner. What the fuck is wrong with me lol.';

'>>92586020
Yeah your post wash layering and highlighting ended up blending or toning down too much. I have had something similar happen with stuff I have oil washed. But the end result was a noticeable lack of contrast, which also means anything that should be tinted lacks framing which would make their coloured tones more apparent. Not so much the washes fault I suppose as it is doing what it should be and naturally blends post wash if you do the layer/highlights soon enough after the oil wash, just something to keep in mind that you need to up the tones used more for them to stick out afterwards.';

'>>92585713
God I love painting necrons';

'>>92586128
Maybe he is just showing off a cool banner he found to his friends.';

'>>92585751
Yeah I dunno what you're doing wrong guy. I mean, the odds of you getting bad lots from two different companies isn't ZERO but...';

'>>92586248
I don't have friends, so then my guys don't have friends either.';

'>>92585839
I used water effects the other day: no, it does not yellow like that before curing. Could be a weird interaction with the snow?';

'>>92586270
Ok, well in lieu of being your internet schizo friend the immediate solution is to add a dead Death Guard model to the base for appropriate context.';

'>>92585956
Pretty sure it's not a resin at all, let alone a UV one. It behaves more like silicone caulking than anything - Dries flexible, cures in the dark, recommends ventilation to improve cure time.';

'>>92586274
Could be, though given that I've seen others do it successfully with these products I'm not sure.. I'll see how it looks in the morning. As of right now, well... It looks like a Nurgle base.';

'>>92586563
I mean it definitely DHOULDNT be a snow thing given that it's a recommended combination from woodland scenics. Could also be whatever else is on the base under it if it'd not just sand painted black
Upside: radical slime mold base';

'>>92586563
That would be good for toxic sludge, otherwise enjoy your dehydrated coom base.';

'>>92585839
>>92586563
So that water effect shit is really annoying to use, but more importantly, you have to let it dry in layers very thin layres because what it does is it will concave because it tends to creep up the sides.
WHen it comes snow, snow is a relaly really hard one to get to look good.

Typically Snow falls into either lookng really relaly good, or really really shit.
I have only ever gotten it to look decent recently with out using crushed glass but only if you are looking for big fluffy snow.

I dont know why yours turned yellow/green in that picture thats really fucking weird. you might want to try sealing the base before you apply the liquid effect.
You might be better off using UV resin.';

'>>92586594
The underlayer is Vallejo Thick Mud, I believe the Russian Mud specifically. I suppose maybe that's causing a reaction... I'm not married to using the mud, I just had a jar and wanted to finally use it for something. Maybe I'll just do a regular sand paste base and see what happens.';

'>>92586637
Was the mud texture dry before application of the other stuff?';

'>>92586725
Should have been. I'll do another test run when I have some time to set it up (and when I find another spare base).';

'Anyone could give me some idea about what to do with this guy?';

'>>92586746
Maybe try sealing the mud before applying the snow stuff. It might be reactivating or reacting to whatever is in the snow/water effect. Which would mean either the effect is turning yellow from that reaction or from pigment bleeding from the mud.';

'>>92586768
Paint him like an engorged penis.';

'Which Dwarves should I make into a full army?';

'>>92586768
Bake him a lasagna?';

'>>92586814
Space Dwarves. Make sure each squad is colored after a power ranger. Sounds funny, I know, but it actually looks pretty alright.';

'>>92580727
I don't think I ever seen this discussed but does anyone recommend using paint retarder for eyes?';

'>>92586768
Elephant and/or anglerfish colors or would that be too obvious?

>>92586816
kek';

'>>92587062
You are going to need to give some context as to what you mean by that anon. Like you just want a longer drying time for your paint specifically for the eyes?';

'>>92586768
Is this your first KDM mini or are there others so we can suggest something that goes with your style?';

'>>92586768
Paint it
I'm boring and I'd probably just go for a grey elephant skin kind of look perhaps blending up to a porcelain look for the face';

'>>92587076
Oh, right. I feel like I'm not too precise with dotting the eyes that it spills to where I don't want it and if I use the super tiny brush (around Size 0-ish for most brands), the paint dries out before it touches the surface. I'm thinking with a retarder, I could allow enough time to apply the paint and wipe away any excess.';

'>>92587143
I normally do the eyes after I've basecoated the skin but before any more progress that way I can just touch them up after';

'>>92587143
Short liner brush, it has a sharp tip and the length let's you hold enough paint to keep it wet for a while.';

'>>92587143
There is no real work around for eyes unless you have a super tiny brush and steady hands. Otherwise it is usually a case of place the eye and iris as best you can and then touch up the flesh around the eye. And put a light wash back over it if things get too bad. But adding something like flow improver or retarder will at least help with the paint drying out on the brush. That will make it runnier though which might be a detriment. It just comes down to practice and using 3 points of contact to steady your hands.';

'WIP about 80% done slaanesh rogue trader group';

'>>92587363
Also the beginnings of putting Space Hulk genestealers on bases.';

'>>92587373';

'It’s been a year since I started painting minis so I wanted to do a fun test and repaint some of my first Ork Boyz and compare them to my initial attempts.

The attached image shows my recent Ork on the left and original on the right. I’ve definitely become much better at thinning down paints and control over highlights/shadows on the skin. I’ve also become stronger managing washes and knowing how to build up highlight levels from them. Likewise, since I began using an airbrush for basecoating and initial highlights 6 months ago, everything comes together so much faster now.

What surprised me most is having a better handling over *when* to focus on highlights and when not to. When I first started I simply did a bunch of edge highlights on everything which inevitably led to everything being too busy. Now I primarily let the skin, face and weapons be the focal points of a model (with some softer highlights applied where applicable on the body/clothes).

Was very good practice and I’m excited to start my new Weirdboy resin model.';

'>>92587393
Those are some beautifully defined fingers you have there anon.';

'>>92587266
Got a recommendation on brand and size? I'm eyeing Da Vinci Maestro size 2.';

'>>92587393
Don’t be afraid of red and orange tones to make some rusty metal for those orky accessories';

'>>92587486
A cheap synthetic I got from hobby lobby lol, think it was the generic signature series brush?';

'>>92585839
Not sure why you’re using water effects. My go to for snow is mixing up woodland scenic snow powder, white craft paint, and PVA glue and slopping it on. It shrinks a little when it dries so sometimes a second layer to pump it up. Works for me.';

'>>92587453

Thank you! I’ll plop hundreds down on an Iwata Eclipse but I’m still too cheap to buy an actual lightbox for photography.

>>92587492

That’s a very good idea! I use Dirty Down Rust currently, but it can sometimes be erratic. I should start making a wash with Rhinox Hide and Doombull Brown for pretty control around rivets, etc.';

'>>92587123
Well, it was my first time painting mini model too so i had no idea what the color is gonna be';

'Is anyone licking their paints? What is it taste like? I tried Vallejo brown rose and it was kind of spicy and bitter';

'>>92587550
Those biceps look a but flat. The recess shading is good, but you need more of a middle tone between them and that final tone over the flesh. Whatever you used for those strength lines, for lack of a better term, would have made for a better overall layer highlight rather than just lines of contrast. Even just passing a simple glaze of dark green over the lower sections of the muscles would probably do it though. Having some tonal variance over the final layer doesn't hurt either but it doesn't need to be extreme. Even just not gunning for full opacity on the flesh can work wonders for making it look more natural.';

'>>92587486

For eyes I have a Winsor & Newton 0 that I use for nothing else. It’s an expensive brush ($14) so I use it as sparingly as possible. I use a 0 instead of 00 for the added bristle length to keep paint wet in. I also use the most bare minimum of paint at the tip along with a $16 magnifying headset to zoom in with.';

'>>92587612

Thanks for the suggestion. Skin is always a nuisance and I’m constantly growing with managing it.

One suggestion I found in a Youtube video was doing a super subtle drybrush over the finished skin using yellow +
highlight color. This adds a hint if warmth to the top-most portions of the flesh.

However, I definitely agree that the transition could be even smoother. Will investigate the use of a wash to blend things further.';

'>>92587642
Your faces and other smallish skin areas seem fine. It is just the big exposed muscles that look like they have problems. Best not to over think it and do solid flesh layer, overall wash to darken and get the recess shading, re-layer the original tone over raised/upper muscles, then a 50/50 mix with a brighter tone and layer in even further upper areas. Reserve those really contrasting lines for highlighting small muscles that aren't showing up well, or for those veins. You can also add in solid darker lines to indicate old scar tissue, or thin red lines for fresh cuts. The veins will stand out more if you use something like a light blue rather than the human flesh tone, but doesn't need to be solid if it looks weird, then just do a 50/50 of green flesh tone and the blue.';

'>>92587492
Dang I love looking at gaslands vehicles';

'>>92587687

That’s a very good idea! I have some Beast Snagga Boyz coming up and will look at trying those suggestions out (particularly the blue veins).';

'>>92587739
I take any excuse to show them off';

'What is you guys opinions about this shit?';

'>>92587800
How do you batch paint with only 1 of those? Just buy a bag of corks and pin your models to them to paint.';

'>>92587800
It would probably do what it advertises, as anything less would bring shame upon their Nippon ancestors, but it would be overkill for tabletop modelling.';

'>>92587872
That's china though, I never seen any nippon hobby vise like this';

'>>92587882
In that case I would steer clear of it. Everyone loves an overengineered solution to a problem that doesn't exist, but don't waste money on chinesium shit that you won't get actual value out of.';

'>>92587871
I can't seem to find any large corks that fit my hand';

'>>92586814
Demiurges';

'>>92587871
Batch painting is gay. I make use of just about every model holding method though. I've got corks (which have their own downsides), alligator clips on skewers, blutac on old paint pots and one each of GW's small and large buttpluggrips.';

'>>92585599
>when u finish all ur minis and you don't have anymore to paint
ha ha ha hahahahahHAHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHHAHAHHAAAAAAAAAAAAA

I have enough minis to paint to last me over 10 years anon. Im not proud of this btw.';

'Do you guys thin down contrast paints when you airbrush them or nah?';

'>>92588254
Depends on the specific one. The darker ones you do so you have more control over their resulting opacity. Lighter ones less so but still isn't a bad idea since it gives you more control. You might get different reactions depending on what you thin it with as well.';

'I learned the lesson with acrylic paint unlike lacquer when you could thinning the whole bottle with 1:1 or 1:2 paint, thinner. With acrylic you only need one or two drops of thinner in your airbrush and you could spray like crazy';

'I need some advice on basic materials. I'm looking to do some Asian-themed 32mm bases and I need something that will simulate bamboo stalks at that scale. Also looking for some little loose scroll bits and whatnot, though that's easier to make out of putty.';

'>>92587759
Beautiful
>>92587550
Good, especially brush control, you must have good eyes, but lacks overall volume, think of whole upper body as a ball shape and make the lower portion darker than the top he's hunched into a ball so make him look like a ball';

'>>92587062
Yes, a drop of retarder can make small amounts of paint easier to work with since small amounts dry so fast. Useful for doing eyes or any tiny detail';

'>>92586051
Tiny
>>92585929
Yes, but spray from a distance and allow it to fall upon the model so the model doesn't get wet very light pass only, matte varnish only you can also use spray fixative for pastels from the art store';

'>>92585839
Sit in sunlight and see if it clears up
>>92585751
Vallejo hobby color isn't a primer, it's a paint, varnish after priming to seal it
>>92585445
Now that's a cool model love the mouth spit
>>92587800
Looks amazing, greatly engineered. Completely unnecessary though unless you have bad hands that can't hold models the right way. But if you do go for it. For disabled people it could be a good solution. The citadel holder is okay though, i just hold my minis in my hands but some people attack to cork with blue tack';

'>>92588361
Bamboo is just giant grass, so.. small grass?';

'>>92588361
Baby bamboo or lilly reeds known as lucky bamboo or indoor bamboo, get at flower shop, if very small scale use toothpick or skewer and pocket knife to make shape and stain or paint to look bamboo';

'>>92586041
the one in the photo is the 8x10
>https://es.aliexpress.com/item/1005006263097413.html


for single minis you can use the 6x10 here, the 5x7 is too small for most single models
>https://es.aliexpress.com/item/1005006243701243.html';

'>>92588281
Thanks! I wanna batch paint some Iron Warriors and I really like the basilicanum over metal effect, it's a pretty dark paint so I'll make sure to thin it.';

'Bros, I'm gonna paint my whole ass GSC army this way. However, I need another colour for vehicles (I think). Would you go for a dark blue or green for the vehicles? I think an orange could work for the details on either.';

'Whats with all the oil paints conversation thats taking place here as of lately?
Did some eceleb make a video praising them or what?';

'>>92588546
There was an oil spill in the pacific and we're making the most of it. Ducks and fish are expendable in our craft.';

'>>92588558
Zip it, boomer.';

'>>92587938
>I can't seem to find any large corks that fit my hand
I just use a section of 2x2 and stick my minis to the top with blu-tack.

>>92587143
Most of the time I don't airbrush eyes but when I do I usually do the eyes themselves first and then use a brush to paint around them and add the details.

>>92588544
You should paint your vehicles a really offensive shade of green. Like "90s cartoon toxic waste" green a la the ooze from TMNT or nuclear waste from the Simpsons.';

'>>92588544
CHROOOOOM for vehicles?
Also, I don't know if I love or hate your paint scheme, the execution is really good tho.';

'>>92588544
Why do you need another color for vehicles? Wouldn't that break the typical synthwave color palette?';

'>>92588546
Maybe there's no grand conspiracy and a few anons just wanted to try them out at the same time, or somebody posted about liking them and some people figured they'd might as well try.';

'>>92588544
What about orangy yellow? Or dark, purplish blue.';

'>>92588654
>Maybe there's no grand conspiracy
Thats precisely what someone whos behind the conspiracy would say';

'>>92588544
green yellow and orange for vehicles';

'>>92588654
Tubebrains can't fathom people doing anything or having an opinion without being told to by a youtuber.';

'>>92588676
I prefer purple and silver.';

'>>92588662
Doing the vehicles in black with only blue edges might be pretty cool, like the mountains in pic related.';

'>>92584157
>Those metal casts look terrible, like truly atrocious.

Anon, I'm not sure you realize just how tiny 6mm figures are. There's not exactly a lot of room for detail.';

'>>92588676 >>92588700
based turtle knowers';

'>>92584452
This, this is surprisimgly cheap to get into.
150 bux or so to have two companies and vehicles from what Ibsaw on their website? Really good value it seems.

But, what is the game experience like, because if they just end up as diorama pieces surely the earlier mentioned italeri, or tamiya, dragon etc. At 1:35-1:72 scale would be better?';

'>>92585231
Ye, sure, but the flipside is that 40k is widely popular with stores in pretty much every western country. Meanwhile ww2 wargaming tends to be more niche, if it weren't for friends and family I would have nobody to play ASL with (I have on several occassions tried to set up online games to play/teach 4chan anons, but no success). With GW you aren't just paying for the models, you are paying for the brand and everything that comes with it. As a total newbie you can walk into your nearest GW/FLG store and take part in an introductory game this week, if not the very same day (one of my first 40k games was against the GW store manager who was having a slow day on one of my days off)';

'>>92586768
The paint theme that I'll go for once I paint mine';

'>>92588544
Needs more contrast everywhere. Make shadows darker and highlights brighter';

'>>92589063
Anon those are golden demon ready, what are you even talknig about';

'>>92589063
No.

>>92589090
This post is everything. Have some gold, kind stranger.';

'>>92589090
>talknig
freudian slip?';

'>>92589017
I think one of the biggest issues with historical wargames is they compete with hex and counters games, which are amazingly strategic and tactical games that don't require mini painting and often are just more fun than any wargame.
What carries GW stuff is how fun it is to paint and look at - people don't really enjoy painting 6mm GIs as much as painting big demon dude, and who can blame them?';

'>>92588544
They're all part of the 1hp gang.';

'>>92588777
Nta, but I do agree with them. 6mm is nearly all metal. I briefly tried it for my ASL games, the figures were acceptable'ish from 3ft away. The armor and (lack of) guns however not.
Also as you say, 6mm is tiny, that 6mm figure wiill have a smok of 2mm, trying to put a 3 tone camo pattern on a 2mm smok is no fun.
This is why I went with 15mm and now 12mm.

>>92588993
It is comparatively quite cheap. The games are fun. I play the more beer and pretzel oriented 'O'group and similar systems, but more often stick to ASL. The problem is typically to find people near you to play with. For dioramas I find they can still be nice, just a different type of diorama. The brands you name typically stick to 1:35 scale, 12mm translates to 1:144 scale. You want a diorama of squad sized action? 1:35 is probably a good idea. You want more than that? Well, shit's going to be huge at 1:35. Lets go with something incredibly cliche as example: an omaha beach saving pvt Ryan diorama. From water to bunker was about 400m, but lets say 300m on one of tje "better" sectors. At 1:35 that is 8.5 meters, there is no way to do that without it looking silly (say you slashed it down to 0.5m, your figures are now 16x too large for the scale of the beach, it wouldn't work). At 1:144 you'd need 2m with 6mm figures 1m.
1m you could reduce down to about 50m I reckon while still conveying the scale of the stretch of beach they needed to cross, 50cm is still huge, but it is a manageable ambitiois project.

Long story short, pick a scale that fits with what you want to do/display.';

'>>92589140
Couldn't agree more. I didn't adapt ASL for nothing, or rather adapt the minis for ASL. The rules are superior in every way, other than consciseness (although some of the TT wargames come in at over 100 pages of rules, hardly new player friendly either).
And at the scale I paint at I really loke the look of the minis too, especially the vehicles, looks so cool to have 40 mini doods in various poses assaulting a postition, as opposed to 5chits representing those 40 d00ds.';

'>>92589172
I never understand the dioramas like that pic. It clearly has a lot of time and effort but into it, but it looks like complete and utter irredeemable shit because of dumb design choices.';

'>>92589223
other than the beach being completely flat and the comically shitty water its ok';

'>>92588438
>Vallejo hobby color isn't a primer, it's a paint, varnish after priming to seal it
NTA but I am getting a lot of mixed information here that I don't know who to believe.';

'>>92589237
I mean, the beach and the water are kinda big aspects of an amphibious beach assault. Also the scale is commically bad. The higgin's boat is as long as the beach.';

'Looks good. I use VMC Golden Olive/Orruk Flesh as base, then mix it with Ork Flesh contrast and glaze, deep dark muscle separation lines with Coelia Greenshade. Muscle highlights with ushabti bone mixed with base.';

'>>92589243
What is so mixed? If the vallejo bottle doesn't say "primer", it isn't a primer.';

'>>92588361
I agree with the toothpick suggestion. Railroad modellers have scale model bamboo if you just want to buy them.
https://www.hobbylinc.com/jtt-bamboo-12-all-scales-model-railroad-scenery-plant-95600';

'>>92582726
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qi5nIwvgzhw';

'>>92589258
>9dollars
>1 (one) tiny patch of 12 bamboo
I'd definitley go with diy toothpicks or similar.';

'>>92589258
>>92589258
>>92589290
>>92588361
My brothers in grass, "mini bamboo" exists.';

'>>92589223
Anon im... pretty sure that's a gameboard. It's not a diorama.';

'What would make convincing tree stump? So far, for fallen/cut logs I was using actual small twigs but stump require roots and such.';

'>>92589364
Mountains.';

'>>92589243
A primer contains chalk and a strong glue to create a texture for other layers of paint to adhere to. That makes it appear frosty and as an off white slight grey. A white paint has only titanium oxide or zinc oxide and a mix and is a brighter white and very smooth. That's the difference. In industrial primers the primer also contains an etching agent, but these aren't present in hobby primers.';

'Started playing with pigments on the base and I really love it.
This has been my favourite model to paint so far';

'>>92589437
You still haven't addressed why he has penises on his iron halo';

'>>92589546
Some people keep the skulls of their kills, Siggy keeps the dicks.';

'>>92589422
>In industrial primers the primer also contains an etching agent, but these aren't present in hobby primers.
Tamiya spray primers contain acetone. Vallejo surface doesn't now, but did also contain a solvent until 2017.';

'Every month or two the primer autist comes back doesnt he';

'>>92589415
I'm sorry, I mean what would work on 28mm scale.';

'>>92589415
Cheeky fuck';

'>>92589364
Start with something short and cylindrical like a coke bottle lid or something. Put some sort of sculptable material around it and make the rough shape, then sculpt the texture into it with some lines going downwards all around it. Then paint it.';

'>>92589747
The undeniable fact remains, polyurethane 'primers' are fucking shit, only rattlecan ones are worth a damn.
Which lead us to the question, is there any good alternative for a solvent based primer for airbrush?';

'Anything that gets a model ready to paint on is a primer
Any rattlecan spray paint is a primer
Do not believe the autist';

'>>92589786
What's your gripe with polyurethane shit? I've never had any issue with valejo brush on and it's polyurethane';

'>>92589871
Nta, but if there is no chemical bonding, I don't want it as a primer. It is not much more than a wrapper otherwise.
I also just don't see the point, painting on primer takes a lot longer than simply hosing a board filled with minis with a rattlecan. 1 rattlecan and I can have an army of whatever primed in literally under a minute, maybe anither minute needed to get the bits I nissed with the first pass. You can't beat that with a brush. So why would I want a worse bonding primer that will take me far longer to apply. I don't see the benefits unless you really want to be able to strip off even the primer or if you are painting 1(one) 15mm model in which case a going outdoors to spray might be "a hassle".';

'>>92589786
No, just rattlecan it. They're cheap and easy to use and any problems with them nearly always arise from either laziness or skill issues. It is like wanting to replace the wheel.';

'>>92589364
https://teensyweensybaby.com/2017/11/08/miniature-tree-stump-tutorial/

Don't judge tge url, the tutorial is solid.';

'>>92589994
>>92589769
Thanks. But who names site "teen baby"?';

'>>92588700
>>92588676
I had the pizza thrower one and the helicopter. Actually had the copter hidden away forgotten and my nephew found it, so now hes the chosen one.';

'>>92589994
Oh I'm judging it.';

'>>92590172
>teensyweensy
isn't derivative of "teen", but of "tiny", English is weird like that';

'Respirator finally arrived. I'll try to get some stuff primed today (to finish my cans) and tomorrow it's airbrushing time.';

'Where the fuck can I buy the "new" game color in the US? Every site i find its out of stock';

'>>92590526
Amazon has *some* in stock but basically every LGS stocks it for less so just pick one.';

'>>92585231
Everyone defines fun by himself.
You need a certain amount of autism to see the fun in recreating historical units and battles, and having actual rl army companies of miniatures in your shelves.
For some people that is amazing, but for others, having a quick and less complex skirmish of 12 bigger, nicely detailed, miniatures is just as fun.
And both of those types pay pretty much the same amount of money for their enjoyment.
Just because the former gets more individual (smaller) miniatures does not make his hobby time more fun than the one with less miniatures.';

'>>92586051
Updated his banner this morning after I realized I slapped the wrong transfer on.';

'>>92590633
Let's not pretend GW isn't overpriced.';

'anyone have experience with perry miniatures, I want to use their American independence army hats for ork freebooters but I know their different scale I'm just wondering if the hats would still look alright.';

'Any good examples out there of faces that don't look grimy and dirty? I would like to paint mine more vibrant and lively, but most examples I see are people just making faces look as gruff as possible.';

'>>92590665
Sloppy freehand on banners is superior to decals, every time.';

'>>92590560
I wish I had a good local store';

'>>92590711
If there's one army that can get away with odd-sized hats it's orks.';

'>>92590706
It is. But thats not the point.
But lets also please not pretend the average warhammer player would have more fun (!) with the wargaming hobby if he bought instead of his space marines some historical correct german Volksgrenadier division.
More miniatures.. sure. Better miniatures, taste i guess. But more fun while playing a game? nope.';

'How do you tell the difference between glaze and wash?';

'>>92590987
Wash is designed to hit the recesses, glaze is designed to tint/filter over something.
Thinned down enough they both can do the same thing. Its more like a technique then an actual difference.';

'>>92590987
In a technical sense, glazes are supposed to stay where you put them and washes arent, they're meant to flow into recesses.
Realistically it hardly matters what you call it as long as it does what you want it to do.';

'I got these sisters off of ebay, and now that they’re in front of me i’m realizing just how difficult they’re going to be to paint. Some of these seem worse than admech';

'Progress on my scouts, mostly done now.';

'>>92591107
Still need to do decals, varnish and final work on the base.';

'>>92591113';

'>>92591125
Close view of the sergeant. Looking a bit overexposed, going to have to take better photos with my other camera once I finish them up completely.';

'>>92591135
>>92591125
>>92591113
>>92591107
Very smooth just rim the bases and it will be good desu.';

'>>92591107
>>92591113
>>92591125
>>92591135
Always fun seeing orange done well, nicely done.';

'>>92591183
looks red to me';

'>>92591246
Today is the day you find out you're colourblind anon';

'>>92591254
Or the pictures are overexposed leading to an inaccurate visual assesment';

'>>92591262
NTA, definitely colourblindness';

'>>92590711
The Perry brothers are big-time into historicals. I would bet compared to the normal Citadel "heroic" 28mm scale, they'd be too small... but comically so, which makes me think that wouldn't be so bad for Orks.';

'>>92591316
I think if I was colourblind I'd have realized it before now';

'>>92590711
way too small for ork heads, but as others said, might look great regardless.';

'>>92591246 >>92591262
Well it's an orange zenithal over a red base, so you'd be forgiven for calling it either. It reads orange in person.';

'>>92591337
There are people who haven't figured it out until late in life.
It doesn't necessarily mean you can't see all color, just that some portion of the color spectrum is gone or fucked to some degree for you, and it isn't restricted to being something you're born with, you can develop the condition.';

'Post your painting gains.

Left is my first commissar. Right is about 3 years later.';

'>>92590711
>Orks travel back in time through the warp and eat some napoleonic old guard before returning to the 41st millenium with Napoleons help
Someone give R. Scott this new and improved script';

'>>92590816
Fair enough, goes back to what that other anon said I guess, with GW you pay for the brand too (i.e. the well designed easy to pick uo game the easily accesible stores, the good/large community etc.)';

'>>92591874
Orks and time travel just works.
>That story about the warboss who went back in time to steal from himself';

'>>92591853
>IG player then
>IG player now
No gains';

'>>92591853
my first models after getting back into the hobby about a year ago vs my most recent one here: >>92584179';

'>>92591920
IG haters just hate the dedication and commitment required to paint 100+ infantry and a dozen vehicles.';

'>>92591853
>SOVL vs soulless';

'Calling it done';

'>>92592253';

'Is Squidmar a meme or do they have some good advice?';

'>>92592072
Actually as a WW2 tabletopper I like em most.';

'>>92592081
>dwarfism vs normal human proportions';

'>>92592334
He's not terrible, but it's mostly an entertainment channel. You really have to look for the useful tips in the pile of gimmick videos and clickbait.
If you're after good tutorials and such, this ain't it.';

'>>92592359
If you already play WW2 why would you pick up guard? That's like a hotwheels/gaslands enthusiast picking up playskool toys.';

'>>92592633
Can't play killteam with 12-15mm ww2 minis.';

'>>92592517
This. GW "heroic scale" cope is insane.';

'>>92592633
Gotta play zoomers games sometimes so you have an excuse to hit on zoomer's moms.';

'>>92592633
I have ww2 soviets, ww2 germans (and some italians) and also chaos guard and way too many cultists. Why not. Painting infantry is fun.';

'I painted this in one sitting so far. I don't know where I'm going with this, how do I make it more interesting?';

'>>92593623
Put a tally count on the power fist.';

'Instead of painting the face, fixing any of the things that need fixing or painting a model that actually belongs to the warhammer army I'm I the middle of, I decided to touch up the water
Looking at it, the blue ink I put over the water effect is too vibrant and should've had some green in, but lessons learned';

'>testing DoW2-Style Toxic Miasma conversion on Carnifex vents before I try applying it to my Hive Tyrant
>Toxic Miasma has plenty of room to be made in the clay, comes out looking nice
>go to do it to the Hive Tyrant
>his vents are too small and thick to properly make the effect
>mfw';

'>>92593765
Going for a blue ring was a bold choice since it really pulls the focus to the tentacles, you need way more layers and contrast to pull off the effect though, just putting blue over yellow ends up looking kinda elementary school arts-and-crafts-y. Just spitballing a workflow I'd have tried basing pink and stippling on layers of yellow up to an ice yellow, then stippled dark brown circles before freehanding white circles and finishing with a super saturated blue.';

'>>92593623
>>92593671
or like a heart with arrow "MOM" style tattoo painted on';

'>>92592253
Really nice
>>92592072
Peh, try 1000 next time or you aren't a man
>>92591974
Good jacket
>>92591853
Better blends, good job';

'>>92591246
It's red fren, you're right, it's just a paler more orange shade close to a hot pink in the salmon color range but within the red family by hue, not the orange family, but its probably what's stupidly called squig orange from games workshop. But if we're honest the sissy just wear pink and screams it's really salmon.';

'>>92594325
>Really nice
Thanks bud';

'so i want to get 3 old necromunda gangs
(van saar,orlock and ratskins)
how can i paint the gangs with 10 paints or less for each?';

'>>92591082
Enjoy
>>92590987
Glazes are a little thicker or we say fatter technically having more medium, washes are thinner having more water, but any transparent application of paint can be called glazing technique regardless of how it's achieved even if its only done by thinning the paint with water and no glazing medium is used. As frens said it's more how you use the paint than it's consistency but special wash and glaze paints are designed to make those techniques easier. In oil painting when we add oil we call that fattening the paint, when we add solvent we call that thinning. Adding acrylic medium makes acrylic paint more fat, water more thin. If we add too much water however the paint breaks and runs all over and won't stick to the model so adding both can be helpful and makes a basic glazing paint. So the basic ways to modify paint include... paint as it is from the container, air dried some/self thickened, thinned with water, thinned with more water for a quick glaze or wash, more medium and water added for better more controlled glazing and washing, quite a bit water added to make a genuine wash which flow over the model fast or get into the recesses better, and then you added way too much water now it's basically water idiot stage. You can also physically thicken paint by adding pigment but we don't do that much in miniature painting. Special mediums can bought or made to be added to make glazing and washing easier or to speed up or slow down drying. Paints that contain polyurethane and special gels dry more slowly and more water can be added to them before they break. They also dry to a harder finish. Pure extenders like propylene glycol retard the drying of paint but they cause the paint to bleed more so paint manufacturers seek out better mixtures. The new game color line from vallejo is made from such a mixture so while it has other problems a lot of water can be added before it breaks.';

'>>92593765
Really like it
>>92593623
Darker shade near staff and above brim near the outside edge on hat to give more illusion of cylinder volume, overall Really good work and color fren, high end tabletop standard';

'>>92594089
I did actually basecoat pink, and there is some amount of variation in the yellow that the camera's taking out. As for the rings... I did think about blacklining them, but after looking at a few different photos and seeing more than a few where you couldn't see the pigment ring unless you really put your nose in the phone, i decided not to.
Not to make excuses, mind, because everything you've said is right and WOULD look better, I'm just very lazy. I only picked blue ring because from like 15 feet away you can look at the model and go "oh blue ring octopus"
Might buy another and try to actually do art on that one later, it was like a 6 buck easy print';

'if it's 77 degrees in my work room I probably don't need to give a warm water bath to my can of primer before going out to spray it, do I?';

'>>92594482
10 paints? Just need your primaries, white black red yellow blue green brown flesh silver-metallic and either a brass, bronze, or gold-metallic but you'll also need either a brush on or spray can primer and either an acrylic matt medium or matt varnish to make things easier and to seal the finished work so basically 12 paints can do anything if you have strong colored primaries and know how to mix colors. I used a set just like that for years and painted a ton of stuff.';

'>>92594758
No. That's warm enough. You can also sit it in the sun for a 15 minutes for same effect';

'>>92594758
If you are worried about your primer not being warm enough, just mama bird it while you are sitting at your computer or painting other things. Just stick the can between your thighs and sit on it. That will warm it up more then enough after like 15 or 20 mins.';

'>>92593273
>hit on zoomer's moms
No thanks, I don't go for women with kids.';

'>>92594876
I mean they're pretty much all adults at this point, it's not quite the same as hooking up with a mother of toddlers.';

'>>92594914
Anybody who could give birth to a broccoli headed zoomer has to be evil regardless.';

'>>92594914
That's too old, 26-28 is my maximum for a woman.';

'>>92594758
Just get an airbrush and never worry about temps again';

'>anybody here getting laid by visiting their LGS';

'>>92595103
>"just prime your mini in non chemically binding primers"
Bitch pls';

'>>92595118
This is some advanced fucking autism God damn';

'>>92595118
Whats it fucking matter when you're just going to paint it in shitcrylics that'll be rubbed off with your foreskin?';

'>>92595129
No, it's a simple fact. Airbrush priming is such a retarded thing to do. Nobody can ever name one benefit.';

'>>92595158
What primer do you use then?
Because as far as I'm concerned gaianotes pro use thinner + any of their surfacers will give you a better finish than anything out of a can, and more control, and less waste, and works on resin completely fine as well.
It also etches into plastic and is a much hotter reaction if that's what youre concerned with. Realistically on minis you can get away with vallejo primers and not have any issues considering you'll be varnishing it anyways.
No you wouldn't use it on rubber or metal but you wouldn't be priming your minis with that same type of primer either, of which they have airbrush variants as well.';

'>>92595146
>this retard doesn't varnish his models
lol
lmao';

'zyklon-b'd myself with enamel paint holy shit this stuff stinks';

'>>92595780
>zyklon-b'd myself
So you have been de-loused?';

'>>92595815
Blackrock and Vanguard are now shareholders of 20% of GW stock, they have injected ESG dollars into the company and are now reaping DEI benefits.';

'>>92589255
Oh yeah that is looking a lot better now compared to just having the random bright striations on the muscles.';

'>>92581007
Painted the imperialis, added a (bald) head, started working on the weapons

I'm starting to see the light';

'I'm getting back into collecting and painting after a good 14ish year hiatus. I need new paints. I'm loathe to get GW stuff so tell me wise ones of WIP, who should I look to first. And yes, I'm looking to start with a starter set and maybe a half dozen other colors then build from there. Local store has GW, Army Painter, AK, Two Thin Coats, Vallejo and at least one other I'm blanking on remembering.';

'>>92596051
I think vallejo and two thin coats will cover pretty much all your needs, scale75 and AK have some decent paints as well. I don't have enough knowledge of other brands.';

'>>92596080
>scale75
TY, that was the one I was forgetting,';

'>>92596051
TTC and Vallejo are both fine. Army painter in a pinch. GW is just a) overpriced, but b) hit or miss, I find some GW paints absolutely amazing and essential. If you're in NA pro-acryl is absolutely fantastic as well if you can find it. AK and dirty down have very good technical paints.';

'>>92580727
Working on a stormsurge (big 40k model). Would it work to just glue him to the base or do I need to pin him or something?';

'>>92596051
As far as sets go the AP ones are pretty decent for the range in them along with it usually including some brushes. There are caveats around AP paints though as they need some prep and maintenance to work right, but besides that they are a decent alternative to Citadel. Vallejo is or at least used to be good, so if you can find an older set that should be fine. But there are complaints about their newer Game line paints that are putting people off recommending them. TTC are perfectly fine paints but you are paying eceleb tax. AK 3rd gen is getting some decent reviews and recommends from people but unsure if they have sets or sets with decent range. Citadel is mostly fine but dogshit for cost and their pots are more or less designed to try and dry out your paint. So avoid them if you can, and if you do get them transferring to a droppers is recommended for real longevity.

So it should probably come down to price for volume/amount based on what is available at your store as pretty much all of those brands are comparable in terms of quality.';

'>>92596105
How big is big and is it resin or plastic?';

'>>92596131
Plastic, 22cm tall (~8.5inches)';

'>>92596085
Oh if S75 is available they are pretty good quality paints but I wouldn't recommend them for a beginner or someone just getting back into painting after such a long hiatus. They are fantastic for layering and highlights due to their nature of how they naturally tone down and blend, but that can make them frustrating to utilise as regular base colours without an airbrush. Personally I use a combination of Vallejo and AP for base coats and some layering, and then mostly S75 for layering/highlights. The S75 metallics though are great and would definitely recommend however, but they are more of a nice to have than a criticality if you can get another set that already has metallics in it.';

'>>92596105
Plastic glue directly on the base should be fine. But if you are making the base prior with texture on it then you should pin with superglue on both feet.';

'>>92596166
I glued to the texture paint. Guess we''ll see how it goes';

'>>92596184
It could be fine to a certain degree depending on the texture you used. In the end most of those are just an acrylic paste that dries solid, so as long as it got enough grip on the base when drying it will probably hold. If you are really worried about it though you could try and drill up into the foot from the bottom of the base and put a pin in.

If it does come off though hope that it breaks where the foot touches the texture and that is it. Then you can just retouch up the base and pin it. Otherwise it could end up ripping/peeling the whole texture off the base with it.';

'Leaving these for the night. Thoughts? I need fresh eyes.';

'>>92596376
Some of those look organic
>>92596019
Looking great but theres a black man there, ruined';

'>>92596376
>Thoughts?
I want them. Very, very nice.';

'>>92596151
If you can cement it straight to the base, no problem. If you can't pinning is preferable, but as long as you haven't posed it like a fuckin maniac it's probably fine to just superglue it to whatever base.';

'>take a decently long break from 4chan
>come back, let's see what /wip/ is up to
>literally the same conversations to the point I thought I ended up in the archives somehow
You are wasting your life, this shit isn't the hobby, put some paint on a fucking mini or go outside.';

'>>92596726
Going outside is a crutch.';

'>>92596726
Something you'll learn as you age is there's always a fresh crop of retards needing to learn the same shit every few months because not every scrap of knowledge is passed on immediately and misinformation hangs around like background information for fucking ages.';

'>>92596888
*background radiation';

'>>92596888
Most of the time the cure is worse than the disease. Everything worthwhile I know I learned from experimentation or seeing how a pro does it, sitting around bickering about primer or whatever is just a waste of time.
The two best primers I've used are never discussed here and I'm not bringing them up now lmao.';

'How to stored paint if i'm poor?';

'>>92596376
Very brown and muddled together. Looks nice, but not very interesting and kind of bland 6/10 in terms of how it pops. You could either go with a cooler color for the grey, or if the models going on top are bright it will make a nice contrast and work well then. I like the shrubbery placement';

'New thread:

>>92597304
>>92597304
>>92597304';

'>>92596019
I like the chainswords, sorry to hear about your cuckoldry';

'>>92596478
>>92596519
>>92597301
Thanks for the feedback bros. The colors do blend a bit, but I'm not sure how to make them pop more without it looking too unnatural. Maybe the shrubs I'll add tomorrow will give that oomf.';