'Just finished these guys';

'>>92597323
>Dogryn
The fuck is wrong with you?';

'>>92597296
>How to stored paint if i'm poor?
Need some context anon. Are you asking about storage solutions like racks? Or just how best to store the paint for it to keep as long as possible?';

'>>92597323
___ ____ ____';

'I may need to start keeping my boy in his carrying case in order to keep my hands off of him, but I decided that if I was going to do the spikes on the whip I ought to go all the way.
I’m very happy with how his glow-up came out, the details are subtler than I expected but they just make everything look so much nicer and it just comes together perfectly. I really love how his Bonesword and Lash Whip look now especially, and I also took the time to fix up the flesh on his Heavy Venom Cannon hand before giving him one last coat of Tyrgel. He looks exactly like how I’ve always wanted him to look now, I can’t think of anything else I could do.
Maybe now I can finally focus on finishing these Termagants and the rest of my army. I gotta spread the love to the rest of my guys after all.';

'>>92597323
i like your spaghetti model, but you missed the gold chain and sandals';

'>>92597391
Wait til you see my cat-ghul';

'>>92597477
Reposting so he’s properly rotated
Hopefully the camera quality’s good enough this time, I tried to take it in a better area so the varnish didn’t catch too much light';

'>>92597487
Reminds me a bit of my pet cat';

'havent painted human skin for years
man i dont envy ogre players one bit';

'>>92597491
Anon, you need to take your photos in a better lit area with a light background. We can't see shit otherwise. Try putting it in the fridge to take the photo if you are having trouble.';

'>>92597487
That's just an ordinary sphynx cat';

'>>92597487
Does she go 'nyaa!'?';

'>>92597542
>it's even wearing clothes
Yeah, seems about right';

'>>92597487
Beerus?';

'>>92597550
Only Nipponese cats do that. That one looks like it would either speak Reikspiel or Nehekharan.';

'>>92597526
my fridge light is strobing while it's open and i'm still working on fixing that
I could try putting a little piece of paper or something behind him so his carapace doesn't blend into the black though';

'>>92597526
>>92597612
I guess I could also just have the lights on, I just think he looks better in pictures when it’s not so bright because the gloss varnish can sometimes catch a lot of light and it makes him look different than he actually looks in person
Is this one a good balance?';

'>>92597642
Put a piece of paper behind him, and back up a bit.';

'>>92597666
White and black both seem too extreme so I went for a compromise
Hopefully I’ve been able to capture his detail this time';

'>>92597737
Other side';

'>>92597737
>>92597747
Much better, but you still need more light.

As for the model itself it looks fine, though the dark carapace could use some brighter highlighting to give it definition. Basically those bright pastel purple highlights on the front of those top crests is what you should use to highlight other edges of the dark carapace. Doesn't need to be solid lines all along the edge, but some touches here and there would help define the edges and simulate small damage/chips/cuts that the light has caught.

The sword also looks a bit flat in the darker areas too despite the red areas being defined well. So also consider putting some of that pastel purple highlight in those areas to help define it.';

'>>92597867
anon has been working on it for 2 months and now you gave him enough pointers for atleast 2 more months';

'>>92597323
Nice';

'>>92597889
Well he doesn't have to apply that to this model right now, or ever. So long as he carries the knowledge forward into this next work on his Nids.';

'>>92597315
>>92597031
Did this place suddenly become pol? Is this angst related to femstodes?';

'>>92596019
And by theway, they look great';

'>>92597867
>>92597903
I'm not the best photographer, but the gloss varnish also just makes my Hive Tyrant difficult to photograph accurately and I think he comes out looking better in pictures when he's in an area with not too much lighting to reflect off of the shine. He's actually unique among my Tyranids in that his carapace doesn't really have any black at all; his was done with steadily applied dark washes that made it look like a deep dark purple that's practically black unless you shine a flashlight on him (at which point it becomes incredibly vibrant and saturated) which gradually brightens as it nears the edge.
Also the edges were actually grey (layered over the bright purple though) but in the deeper parts of his carapace the edge is only highlighted by the pastel color because I think the variation looked nicer and more natural than just only using the grey. His carapace may be one of the parts of him I'm most proud of honestly, and it's also one of the only parts that's gone pretty much untouched since I first finished his paint job. I'm just really happy with how it looks.
But then I try to take a picture of it in bright light and it suddenly looks like it's somehow concave (his sword is also consistently a tricky part to get to look good in pictures, I think his Horn is the only part that has deep black or near-black colors that escapes this). Regardless I'm quite happy with how he looks now in-person; his Bonesword and Carapace aren't lacking in that department so much as my skill to get good pictures off my mid phone camera is. I do appreciate the feedback though, even if I feel I already did those things it is still good advice. Thanks!
And thanks for the help on getting better pictures, because if there is anything I really need to improve on, it's definitely that. Hard to show off something you're proud of it you can't capture the quality well, after all.
I love the viscous look of the gloss though so I still think it's worth it.';

'>>92597503
If this is contrast you should try thinning it back a little, you'll have an easier time getting less tide marks and any slight variation in skin tones will make your group of dudes look more interesting';

'>>92597491
Give some of these tips a shot anon. Even if you don't have a spicy camera you'd be amazed how much a sheet of paper helps your camera bring things into focus';

'>>92597747
Take a picture in the frig, dingus.';

'>>92598022
>>92598052
Fuq';

'>>92598041
no its just normal painting
i have always drybrushed my skin on but now i tried something new for the muscles';

'>>92597889
My guy's already got those touches to him (I just suck at using cameras and my camera isn't high quality to begin with), but I've also been working on him for three months so it evens out.
Though for the first month I was still getting back into the hobby and hadn't come back to /wip/ yet, and most of that was spent taking all his separate unpainted pieces and repairing them (and replacing his whip arm) before re-assembling him in the pose I wanted and then starting the work of painting him after testing the scheme on some Gaunts first. Month two was his base and finishing touches and then I just kept coming back to him because either I or other anons would notice something and I went back in to fix it, like how his Bonesword initially looked, or his Teeth, etc
This place has definitely helped me a lot with making him look even better than ever, so I'm quite grateful for all the help I've gotten here. Maybe sometime I'll make a collage showing the progress starting with his initial un-painted frame.
>>92598052
>>92598062
Hey thanks! I'll try this out next time I want to share my models here, I appreciate it. Hopefully I'll be able to make it work.
>>92598059
hard to do that when the fridge is having a seizure >>92597612';

'>>92598022
In general photos are always going to look worse than IRL simply due to differences between how cameras capture light and tone and how our eyes interpret it in reality. Basically a camera picks up tonal variance in a different and sharper way where as our eyes would normally blends the two tones together. Varnish can also exacerbate this separation effect too which doesn't help, as a previously seemingly blended layer or highlight might end up looking very delineated after a varnish. Just something to keep in mind when taking photos and showing them off.

It is great that you are proud of your work but this isn't Reddit so you will get feedback on your work, some of which may not be constructive. But it is fine to rest on your laurels with a model as long as you carry any knowledge learned forward. You certainly don't need to repaint or apply anything extra to a model if you feel it is done and are happy enough with it at the moment. And if you want to touch up or repaint it later you don't have to strip it as you can just paint straight over varnish.';

'>>92598087
Another tip that isn't on that pic is to use your cameras timer setting. Set your camera up on a solid surface so the model is in focus, if you're using a phone try propping it up between some books or something. Then set your timer for 5-10 seconds and hit the shutter button, removing all hands from the camera so you don't get any shakes. A lot of trouble people have with getting good photos in terms of focus come from the little shake we all make when tapping the shutter button. A lot of photographers doing super macro shots of tiny things make use of the timer and a tripod so they don't get that little shake.';

'>>92598123
>It is great that you are proud of your work but this isn't Reddit so you will get feedback on your work, some of which may not be constructive
Oh trust me I'd have it no other way, people here pointed out flaws in him before which helped me make him better and also helped me make what I painted down the line better. And again I think your advice is genuinely good, it's just I believe what you said with how a camera captures light differently than the eye applies here, as I just don't see that when I look at him. Even if I don't agree with it in the sense that I think he doesn't lack it though, I agree that those things are good to do and I should continue to try to do them going forward. And I'd also agree with you that it's just good to continue on using what you've learned to better your work in the future. My more recent batch of Termagants blows the original ten I did out of the water, and I may go back and re-do those ten to be more like the ones I'm doing now, and I think part of that is they have a much better carapace than the initial ones I did (and part of it is also that I gave them dental like how I was suggested I do it for my Hive Tyrant by another anon here, and man do black gums just look so much nicer than pink ones on these guys). So thanks, I'll take the advice to heart.';

'>>92598218
that bloody shake that happens is a bane on all my attempts, I'll do well to remember the timer';

'Do you make your own Paint rack?';

'>>92598271
Please dont talk about DIY youll have the thread shit up for the next day';

'Finished this for a friend. I tried out a scheme I’ve never done before (blades of vengeance chapter) to practice different colours. Attempted some battle scratches as I haven’t done a lot of battle damage yet; next time I’ll add more chipping to the edge highlights.
Cheers!';

'I have yet to see an oil paintjob that doesnt look like a muddy/blurry mess, honestly I dont understand what people see in them.';

'>>92598379
just to nitpick, the battle scratches should have the highlight on the bottom of the scratch, not on the top, as the light would bounce on the bottom edge of the indentation';

'Trying out something new';

'Slapping on base colours when I can. Gonna attempt to do a pretty heavy gloss varnish then oil wash to mitigate the shitty texture overall and the print lines on the printed models. Then ultra matt varnish and finish the acrylic details.';

'>>92598476
looking good and promising
i wish they sold that kapa board whatever its called in my country because slicing and sanding xps foam is such a messy chore';

'>>92598499
The latest colour I worked with was Warboss Green layer paint. It dries so fast even on wet pallette. Is that normal for such a paint??';

'Working on this Kroothound, kinda fish-like';

'>>92598509
Are you putting enough water on the wet palette?';

'>>92598469
No anon, those scratches are obviously made by the struggling ork form below, so the upper part of the scratch is raised and the light bounces off that. Just joking, you're right';

'>>92598520
I think so. I haven't had this issue with other paints. It thickens and dries quickly. Maybe I didn't shake it enough.';

'>>92598579
It might have lost medium whilst in the pot due to GW pot's poor design. You could add something like Flow Improver in there which might help.';

'>>92597323
Very noice. Are you the same anon who did the custom Daemonhost and the big Inquisitorial band? Could you share me a link to the whole bunch, if so?';

'>>92598595
do not add flow improver, add medium or retarder';

'>>92597971
Two people does not make it pol. 4chan in general is one of the few places where you can say what you please, so people do.';

'Which diameter do you use to drill 40k terminator's assault bolter's barrels?

Lately I've been using a 1mm diameter drill for the 4th edition to pre10th edition, but I don't know if a bigger drill would be a better choice. Which diameter do you use for older and newer terminators?';

'>>92598627
Yes thats me. Thanks!

I post on ig as (at) my.little.guys';

'>>92598921
you usually get spare weapoons, test on those, start at 1 and drill as big as it looks good';

'>>92597971
Poltards are everywhere';

'>>92598964
Three eyes, zero eyebrows.';

'>>92599276
thats a mouth, so no beard';

'>>92597323
That dude is wearing some zesty armor';

'>>92599249
I somehow never thought they'd come to 4chan though';

'>>92597971
>Everyone who doesn't like niggers is pol
Get a load of this guy.';

'>>92599492
Doesn't look much like a mouth, but that does mean you can skullfuck her. Then again, I don't know if I wanna fuck a girl with no eyebrows.';

'>>92599529
Excuse me, it's ma'am.';

'>>92599546
>come to 4chan
>pol
?????';

'>>92599546
This is a confusing troll. They're from 4chan.';

'Got the side door done. Still a bunch of hull in the middle section to highlight before I can glue it together.';

'2/3 ogryns done and hellhound got a thick basecoat
felt really weird to paint something smaller and detailed after months just brushing tanks whitch is honestly little tonque in cheek mindless work';

'>>92599595
>>92599600
Nothing gets past you guys.';

'>>92599631
>I was only pretending to be retarded';

'>>92599611
Little late for tank critique since you've primed it already, but if you make another in future I think your flamer lines should be different sizes. Your actual fwoosh line should be significantly thicker than the igniter line since the igniter only needs to be big enough to keep the cabling or whatever safe';

'>>92599730
i had it in the back of my mind to shorten the barrels and either change lower one to smaller or wind some paper around the top one but i forgot because i concentrated so much on fixing the nozzle
thank you for pointing it out';

'>>92599549
Imagine getting mad over some brown mini';

'I'm building a master of executions right now and i'm not sure how best to approach his axe, its a large flat surface with little to no detail on the blade and i don't want to just slap a metallic on it and call it a day.

Any suggestions?';

'>>92599941
Blend the colours of a power field.';

'>>92597323
lel terrific';

'>>92599941
You could pretty easily do one of those reversed gradients w/ edge highlights power weapon type things';

'>>92599941';

'>>92599955
>>92599974
>>92600044
perfect, thanks guys, i have some ideas now.';

'>>92599941
Lots of rust and blood effect. Spatter the whole fucking guy in droplets of red even
>>92599812
Honestly the... whatever the fuck at the end of the barrel more than sells it as a flamethrower I'm just nitpicking';

'The talk about WW2 minis from previous threads piqued my interest. Where can I get plastic 6mm WW2 minis? I can find metal minis, but their finish looks kinda bad (even when taking their scale into acount, they look like shitty 80s stuff), and I really just don't like metal minis.
The larger scales like 12 qnd 15mm that seemed to be what was mostly ppsted about last thread looks good, but I don't think I have enough room to play at that scale without it looking weird (or having the units be an abstraction of smaller more numerous soldiers).
Any tips are welcome.';

'Is citadel mouldline remover worh it?';

'>>92599603
how did you make the slide doors?';

'>>92600262
You mean the tool? Just use the side of a xacto blade and you'll have similar results at a fraction of the cost';

'>>92600280
I put some 1mm magnets on the bottom of the doors and on the track, so that they stay put if they are fully open or fully closed.';

'>>92600262
No. It doesn't even fit in most places. Besides, if it has a citadel or GW logo on it, you're paying double.';

'hunt
scavengenging
prowling
scouting
all for a cute girlfriend that loves me and gives me kisses';

'>>92600334
thats pretty neat';

'>>92597323
One simply cognizes';

'>>92600262
I like mine. It's less prone to scoring the plastic than an exacto knife or a paring knife. But like others say it is a bit thick for some applications';

'Second group of leeches I'm working on, these ones will have a teal spotted line.
I'm wondering if the cobblestones are too color separated atm, or if it will blend more when I do the drybrushing. Does anyone know?';

'>>92600262
>>92600287
>>92600386
>>92600451
do new plastic kits even have any mould lines to remove to begin with
i remember seeing some yunger anons posting their sprues and complaining about the mold lines but they were basically all clean, no protruding lines or visible flash

made me think they all bought the removal tool and in the end just wanted to convince themselves it was a necessary tool';

'>>92600602
They might be a bit neater than in the 90's, but there's still plenty of mold lines.';

'>>92600389
Not for the bastard sorcerer that gave you a lizard head?';

'>>92600602
theres still a lot and in really shitty places too';

'>>92600542
a wash and a drybrush or a couple of both will unify them alright';

'>>92600262
Try using a spare key for something you don't use anymore, achieves the same goal pretty well';

'>>92600745
NTA, but I want you to know someone got your joke.';

'>>92600745
>>92600818';

'>>92600745
Dorohedoro was so fucking kino if it wasn't for the last 10% or so';

'>>92600542
Heavy drybrush will definitely bring stuff together';

'>>92600542
If you want them blended better I'd recommend slapping a wash on there, agrax/strong tone/dark oil wash/whatever your proffered dark brown wash is. The colors are significantly unusual for that kind of paving so you'd want to desaturate or darken everything pretty uniformly to make it look more """realistic"""
Personally I kind of like the goofiness of the rocks, reminds me of the pathways in dragon tales';

'How would you paint white fur? Got fur trim on some armor that I'd rather do white instead of brown.';

'>>92601013
start with a pale grey, shade it with a light blue or sepia colour then drybrush it with an even lighter grey and the finally white.';

'>>92600262
>Is citadel mouldline remover worh it?
The two biggest pluses are that it's not sharp, which reduces the chance that you'll inadvertently damage a plastic model and/or impale yourself if you drop it, and that the substantial steel edge is strong enough to work on metal models - which I have a lot of.

Honestly, though? It costs too much for what it does most of the time, especially if you're just working with plastic or resin.';

'>>92601032
Pretty much what I expected, okay. Saw some people suggesting what sounded like more of a cream fur for a natural look and was getting thrown off.';

'>>92601013
grey base with dark wash depending how dirty you want it to look like and drybrush gradually to white';

'>>92600841
Yeah the gyoza fairy shit especially dragged it down. Still an 8 imo, but if it ended stronger it would've been an easy 10
"Everyone is okay again actually" is such a cop-out ending especially when NATSUKI STAYED DEAD WHAT THE FUCK Q';

'>>92597889
how do you spend two months on one model';

'>>92601055
With love and care anon, with love and care';

'>>92601039
>reduces the chance that you'll inadvertently damage a plastic model and/or impale yourself
Unless you have the fine motor skills of a child, this is a non-issue.';

'>>92598271
>Do you make your own Paint rack?
I made one out of foam core board, but then my wife bought me a much nicer laser-cut MDF one, so I tossed the old one.';

'>>92601055
By doing maybe 5-10 minutes worth of actual painting every couple of days and spending a shitload of time just staring at the model.

t. Professional procrastinator';

'>>92601069
>the fine motor skills of a child
Perhaps ironically, the older one gets, the more this seems like some kind of "closed loop". If you're like most of the people on /WIP/, though, anon, you likely have plenty of time before this begins to become a problem for you.';

'>>92601099
There's a massive gap between being a little kid and your hands starting to shake from old age. Most people here aren't 60.';

'>>92601013
>How would you paint white fur?
White';

'>>92601123
here anon, you dropped this';

'I completely fucking ruined a mini, can I just prime over it and start from scratch?';

'>>92601123';

'>>92601176
How did you ruin it? Mold lines aside it looks like a fine start, just some cleanup and then wash/highlight where it hasn't been done and you're good. Something I'm not seeing?';

'>>92601176
You'll have a better time if you strip it first';

'Printing some extra Krieg bodies to make use of the leftover arms from the set, do these seem too tall to anyone else or is it just me?';

'>>92601360
Maybe a hair taller, but they seem to have a much slimmer frame than the original.';

'>>92601360
>>92601378
Their gas masks seem to be the FW kriegsmen style, while the guy in the middle is the new plastic style';

'>>92597971
>>92598871
I didn't think it'd be a big deal, I wanted to use all the different neophytes faces on the sprue and that one was obviously a black guy, was a good exercise to practice on a skin tone I never painted before to be honest

>>92597987
Thanks';

'>>92601461
There's no problem with it, some people are just jackasses and use the anonymity to say shit they'd never speak a word of in person. You did good.';

'How do I keep my AP wet palette from getting mouldy? Fucks sake';

'>>92601603
dont get anything organic on it and nothing will grow, it will dry completely every day anyways so there would not be any time for that to happen anyways';

'>>92601603
put some alcohol into the water';

'>>92601072
>a much nicer laser-cut MDF one
If it's one of the ones with individual holes per paint bottle, you downgraded.';

'Any of you guys worked on 1/700 ships? Getting one soon and I want to do the rigging, but it looks fiddly as shit.';

'>>92601696
Yours dries between sessions? Anyway, there's organic materials in the paint.

>>92601603
Use stuff you can throw away and refresh the thing once in a while.';

'Do i need distilled water to thin paint or tap water is fine?';

'>>92601055
That Hive Tyrant is just really special to me anon I don't know what to say. I loved him as a kid and when I gained the motive to get back in the game I wanted to do right by him and make him as good as he could possibly be.
I'm sure everyone has one model for them that's like that.';

'>>92601915
You need to source fresh glacial runoff water yourself, if it's not from the arctic circle you may aswell just not bother.';

'it's done';

'>>92602035';

'>>92600542
Filter with gray or oilwash with burnt umber to unite those cobbles and give it some depth. If no oils you could try agrax. Vid related shows the effect of a glaze. https://youtu.be/gi2vJwWkhyI?feature=shared&t=234';

'how does this guy look? not sure if the paperclip spike looks alright myself';

'>>92601597
Yeah, I was just baffled. Thanks

>>92602035
ooh, very nice. The bark looks really good';

'>>92601807
My dad does wooden ship models regularly. It is an entire different thing. It takes longer (i.e. months) requires some woodworking skills/tools (not alfyllblown carpentry, but you need to bend and saw the planks to fit. The rigging is just string, good luck. Painting is on wood, which doesn't behave like plastic or metal whatsoever (whoduthunk right?).
They are very cool projects though, just bebaware that it is that, a project. With GW there really isn't a mini that you couln't get done in a weekend if you wanted to, even something largr like the lord of change you could finish in that time.
Doing a wooden ship is, from a project size perspective, more like doing a 2k point army and then another 2k army for a friend to play against.';

'>>92602130
Looks fine but get rid of the mouldlines.';

'>>92601890
>Yours dries between sessions
sure why would i need it when im not painting anyway
or are you telling me people got the idea that you are supposed to pour weeks worth of paint on a palette and store it on it instead of the tube/pot or where does this molding and drying thing come from

im starting to get a feeling this is something silly people have learned from youtube again';

'>>92600745
Noi is best girl.';

'>>92602389
unless you leave the wet palette open it wont dry overnight, it doesn't matter if the paint does, tap water will grow mold in those conditions';

'>>92601603
>couple pieces of copper wire or pennies under the sponge
>at the end of the day wring out the sponge gently and let it dry
>leave a little gap at the edge of the palette to let the moisture out when you put the strap on
been using the AP palette for years, still on the same sponge. it will harden and shrink when dry but will rehydrate without a problem later.';

'>>92601997
>didn't bond hydrogen and oxygen atoms together xerself to make water';

'>>92602475
yes i have heard stories like this before but how many days/weeks do people leave their moist paint thingies then and dont they ever change the papers
i mean i have germinated seeds for some 14 years on a wet palette and they have molded over in maybe 2 weeks if forgotten and thats organic matter and towel paper not paint';

'>>92602035
>>92602065
Where'd you get the glass (acrylic?) dome and base?
Love me a classic sculpt though. You hand sculpt the tree?';

'I need the guy who was posting blood ravens recipes to post the Darren Latham one.';

'>>92602621
>Where'd you get the glass (acrylic?) dome and base?
it's glass, from aliexpress
>https://es.aliexpress.com/item/1005006263097413.html
the base is 3dprinted, it comes with a cork

>You hand sculpt the tree?
yes, it's wire, wrapped and sculpted';

'>>92602773
Very nice. How long did it take you to sculpt the tree? It all fits extremely well together.';

'>>92598052
Bro, just
>clear off a shelf in your fridge
>grab a paper plate or a white sheet of paper.
>Place mini on paper
>Focus phone camera
>Crop the image or at least make sure the food is in tasteful positions.

Here's a shitty one I did a long time ago with no plate.';

'why dont you paint anything other than warhammer';

'>>92603401
Be the example you want to see';

'Gents,

If my plan is *not* to use contrast paints, is it largely a waste of time to do zenithal priming (black to white)?';

'>>92603442

* versus just using a mid-grey primer';

'>>92603401
i dont feel like painting toys i cant play with
sure some historical diorama display piece or gundam might be nice on my shelf but its just sitting there, looking at me with its soulless eyes and without any rules';

'Our first Loon-touched berzerkers.
Big "you messin'?" Energy in this kit, I love it.
Sorry for shitty camera phone pic.';

'>>92603478
strawberry heads';

'>>92603478
I like the models, but the bases are weird.';

'>>92603401
Checkmate: I don't paint anything.';

'>>92603266
Orks on GOMAD';

'>>92603442
In my experience Zenithal Priming is never a waste of time. Considering every coat of paint should be thin, you'll still see the effects even in the late stages of painting. And even if you end up 100% covering the model it highlights features you wouldn't see on a monotone prime job, guiding your painting and decision making process even prior to painting. That said, is it "wrong" to skip Zenithal? No. You can make do without it.';

'>>92603401
>he said, after previous thread was filled with WW2 mini discussion';

'>>92603509
Usually it doesn't stand out quite as much.
>>92603504
I probably need to be less lazy and add more white to them like with the Ardboyz.';

'>>92603569
Another thing worth mentioning is that it is 2 seconds extra work (almost literally so), so worst case scenario you waste 2 seconds.';

'>>92603566
is GOMAD still a thing or a meme?';

'Painting Spiders right now. What is the best way to give a spider web effect to the base?';

'>>92603569
>>92603597

OK so I have black, grey and white primer. Did I waste money by buying the grey?

Or can I use the grey as a base, then shoot black from below and white from above.';

'>>92603062
the wire and wrapping can be done rather quickly, sculpting the bark took a few days since its hard to hold it without fucking up the fresh putty elsewhere, also the roots where sculpted last over the base (covered in cling film) to match the rock faces';

'>>92602698
I was planning to move (or maybe just ... copy?) all the Blood Raven tutorials into the general WIP MEGA that is listed in the pastebin. I'm sure the Darren Latham one is in there. Is [pic related] the one you're thinking of? I'm pretty sure it's from when he wuz on da 'Eavy Metal team.';

'>>92603607
find a spiderweb and superglue it to the base dont worry they wont mind';

'>>92603623
If you really want to get use out of the grey primer, prime black all over, shoot grey from below and white from above';

'Painting this GW LOTR cave drake, probably ballsing it up, but hey ho';

'>>92603674
s'ok so far';

'>>92603607
this thing, never tried it but looks like magic
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kI4cTeG-n-E';

'>>92603401
I do, but I'm honestly kind of unimpressed with how boring most miniature ranges are. You'd expect them to have more freedom to do crazy shit, but most of it is more derivative and boring than Warhammer.';

'>>92603442
You'll still see it, it just won't be like a crazy difference or anything like it would with contrasts. And it's not like it's ENORMOuSLY time consuming anyway, so might as well.';

'>>92603478
I like your wild colors, but they lack contrast between the skin and the red of the helmet.';

'>>92601807

I've tried it at 1/450 and it was still so awful I gave up, although probably could've persevered- 1/700 I think would be suicide.

Single piece shrouds like in your pic: probably fine
Stays: okay
Braces: hardest

I suspect it would be much easier cutting something like brush bristles to length rather than trying to maintain tension on string';

'>>92603712
if you paint nothing but warhammer for 10 years you'll realize just how soulless gw's new minis are';

'>>92603401
I do, sometimes';

'>>92603623
Not necessarily. I don't use a grey primer but they can be useful. There's a meme going around of
>prime 100% black
>extensive overhead grey
>small amount of overhead white
The smoother transition of black, grey, white will probably give a better effect assuming you use an airbrush. But if it is rattle can it can be a gamble depending on humidity and dumb luck. Not trying to talk you out of it though. Do some tester models of black, grey, white and then black, white and see what you prefer.';

'Should I paint my Sentinal legs all metallic or Dark Grey?';

'>>92603600
Mark rippletits is a lifestyle, not a meme';

'>>92603701
That does look nice. Good recommendation.';

'>>92603266
please refrain from posting orkz right next to grapes it makes it difficult to tell them apart';

'>>92602242
I appreciate the comment anon, and kudos to your dad for committing to projects like that, but I probably should have specified the models I'm getting are resin-hulled models for wargaming, so I (thankfully) don't have to worry about handling wooden hulls and the like.
>>92603401
I think the last Warhammer model I painted was in 2018 - historicals (and the odd Fallout model) are what call to me these days. Even then, it wasn't 100% GW, but a weird model I picked up for an aborted Minotaurs chapter thing with its own stupid fluff.';

'>>92601807
I've done one before. It wasn't too hard but my hull was just one finished piece. All I had to do was glue on small pieces here and there, masts, rudder, etc. The worst part was weaving the rope ladders for the masts.';

'>>92603756
I've been painting them for 25 years. If you're one of those 90's Warhammer only people who think bad anatomy and derpy sculpts equal soul, I disagree.';

'>>92603575
Chain of Command is one of the most fun tabletop systems I have played. It encourages nice scenic battlegrounds. Playpieces that can be used are extremely varied as long as it is WW2. And most importantly the rules are fucking fantastic. I was getting tired of 40k IGOUGO system, it is, imo, a boring archaic system that, despite being in its 10th edition, has failed to go with the times. I don't want to twiddle my thumbs for 20 minutes with my only input being save rolls, I disn't paont 2k ppints to see the fanciest 500 points get obliterated on turn 1 withoit me being able to do ANYTHING about it.
I was also, and this is specific to my LGS and might not apply to others, sick and tired of the fucking neckbeards abusing every little rule and minmaxing whatever army GW made the FotM to win. Like ye, I want you to play to win and try to beat me, but no, I don't enjoy your RAW abusing cunt ass.

Switched things up with 2 buddies of mine, we now play chain of command and managed to rope in some other who playbat our lgs. It isn't a tournament friendly system, so all the neckbeard cunts stear clear of it, which is lovely.

Pic not my game, but one I would like to try in the future, we haven't done DAK stuff yet';

'>>92603997
new models dont have the same grimdark aesthetic as old models its that simple';

'>>92603998
how is it compared to bolt action?';

'>>92603998
Rules as written fags need to go and stay go. They are all, invariably, antisocial autists, and the majority smell, likely because mental illness and poor hygiene oftwn go hand in hand. I have such disdain for them, I'd rather forfeit a game and go hone than play them. Thank god where I play these days is boomer central and 40k play is the exception, not the rule.';

'>>92604054
MTG is able to write foolproof rules without room for interpretation, why can't GW, is it because theyre British and have bad teeth?';

'>>92604036
What? If anything, the new models are more grimdark, while the old ones had a more comical approach.';

'>>92604139
Because it's not a card game. There's way more variables at play.';

'>>92604048
Very similar. I find CoC has better deployment rules and more sophistication. Bolt Action is simpler and veers a tad more to the beer+pretzel side of the spectrum (nothing wrong with that mind you), it's semi-random activation result is great though. Neither however handle vehicles well and I find both are best used as platoon level infantry games. I have not yet had the chance/time/etc. to find/play a system that DOES handle vehicles well. I hear good things aboit Wargames research group. The other anon talking abojt using miniatures for advanced squad leader also sounded interesting, as that also seems to handle vehicles pretty well.';

'>tfw the last few minutes of working on a model makes it all click into place and you don't hate it anymore';

'>>92604175
For vehicles:

Big chain of command (same rules with some tweaks).
O group (battalion size with abstraction, iirc infantry and tank figures represent platoons and equivalents)
Battlegroup (company size, comes with scenarios, company lists, backgrounds of the battles, really good stuff)

You better be playing with 12mm or less though, or your issue won't be rules, it will be space.';

'>>92604404
Forgot "i aint being shot mum" by the same lads who did (Big) Coc.
Again, space required, pic is at 6mm scale and is still huge.';

'Decided on a basing scheme and finished off these cavalry guys';

'>>92604727
Bretonnia models are always cool, glad TOW is back.';

'Some cars I've been working on for Gaslands';

'>>92602461
Based';

'>>92601055
I've been working on one for about a year. Technically it's barely a week's worth of work since I get frustrated enough to put it away for some time.';

'>>92597487
Ain't that just a felinid??';

'>>92598964
These are from the Inquisition??
But all I see is rampant heresy.';

'A vampire lady joins the fray. The head fell off while painting, that was so very fun. Needs touch-ups, and of course as I just finished I absolutely hate it, but that's every single time.';

'>>92605313
And her back.
I think I use those paints too thickly sometimes? Or I don't wait enough for the next layer. Idk. My head is killing after a 4hrs painting session lol.';

'>>92600386
I have 3 of them and they all came for free in something I bought. I even got my dad to make me a handle for one of them.
Really I only use them because I once bought a scalpel at an art supplies store and it rusted in like a week, and before you ask, yes I did keep the cap on.';

'>>92605313
>>92605333
The red coverage is awful';

'>>92605484
You mean the blending sucks or just the most highlighted parts aren't smooth?';

'I dont understand why most mini painters don't have an airbrush. Youre already shelling out hundreds if not thousands on overpriced GW shit. An airbrush setup is cheap in comparison.';

'>>92600389
>all for a cute girlfriend that loves
I gave up my hope long ago. But thankfully my dog is a dogsend';

'is citadel's grey seer primer any good?';

'>>92605609
An airbrush is unnecessary and is the realm of that special blend of lazy+snobby.
Non citadel acrylics and cheap synthetic brushes are good for 99% of hobbyists.';

'>>92605952
they're almost mandatory for painting vehicles and dreads if you don't want it looking like shit or taking 30+ hours per model';

'>>92605952
Spoken like a true poorfag coping retard';

'can I put freshly varnished or primed models in an airtight tupperware to keep my dusty fucking house from shedding on them while they dry or will that contained system fuck up their curing or some shit';

'>>92606372
clean your house';

'>>92606387
I do
you can't keep an old house with 4 big dogs dust free even with quarterly duct cleaning and weekly dusting';

'>>92603442
In addition to what the other anons said, it makes painting poor coverage paints like yellow easier.
>was grey primer a waste?
Zenithal white over grey is underrated, you want the shadows to still have a little color in them rather than be pitch black, it cuts down on the "slapchop look". Less of an issue if you're using normal paints but you might like it.';

'>>92603652
Yee ty';

'>>92603652
I couldn't find this one in the op';

'>>92606402
eat your dogs';

'>>92606712
nice try chang';

'Hey guys, I'm not really in the hobby anymore, but I still stop in from time to time to see what you guys are up to. Can anyone tell me what became of this lil guy?';

'>>92606402
I have a friend who has 3 small-mid sized dogs, yeah, no amount of dusting and cleaning ever lasts more than a day.';

'>>92606882
give it a little bit the guy is still posting regularly';

'>>92600602
lmfao. GW kits are still riddled with awful mould lines.';

'>>92607022
modern kits are infinitely better about them
you don't have shit like fat fucking moldlines over the middle of a giant smooth marine pauldron anymore';

'He's coming along.
I would say "coming along nicely" except every time I put nihilahk oxide on a model I realize that I'm getting worse at it and it's sloppier than the last model I did. Cest la vie.';

'>>92607041
They absolutely are not. Go look at SoB models with mould lines all through fine details like rivets (not to mention the awful seams right in the middle of the shoulder pads, but that's another issue). The new nids also have atrocious mould lines all through their knobbly bits. They might not be as physically large as some of the 3e/4e era kits but are more annoying to clean due to the fineness of the details they're covering. GW also likes to "cheat" with detail on some modern kits with details in some spots that don't quite "meet up" or end cleanly so to speak. The kind of thing you'd think was mould slip in the old days but I think is a result of modern GW sculpts being put into retarded poses and covered in extraneous crap that their moulding tech can't actually handle. These are especially annoying because you often can't just shave them down like a mould line since they're actually part of some detail on one side and you have to decide if you're willing to just let it go or try to resculpt it to look better yourself.';

'God bless you folk who’ve worked with resin for so long. Doing my first resin model and holy cow am I needing to clean a lot of things up — always terrified at the thought I will accidentally screw it up.';

'>fling pigments at base
>start poking them around
>the fucking metallic paint comes away as I brush the pigment over it
is this normal? I don't think I ever came across any warnings about all the paint coming off in flakes';

'I finally figured out where the grainy texture on my models came from.
I just don't shake my white enough.
I'll just use heavy body titanium white instead fuck shaking.
Fuck fluid paints so much.';

'Why can't I ever seem to get colors that are not super desaturated and muddy like a 2 year old or nice gradients? I feel like I'm missing something. Willing to put the time in and grind to learn but feel like I'm learning wrong...';

'>>92607689
>desaturated
Stop mixing shades/highlights by adding black or white
>gradients
If you mean gradients via wet blending try a retarder to give you more work time, if you mean glazing remember that where you pull the brush off the model is where the most paint will be left behind';

'>>92606882
Hey thanks for asking!
This is the current status of the sculpting
Right now I'm more focused into painting one mini I want to get into a competition, but as soon as I'm done I'll resume sculpting on the wee lad';

'>>92606882
>>92607859
And the back';

'>>92607746
What I'm referring to is the highlights here. The smooth gradient especially on his left shoulder from dark to light highlight. Mine always ends up feeling like very splotchy and rough versus that nice smoothness to this and like the sort of "Dr. Faust" style layering I can never seem to get quite right.';

'>>92607873
do you use just water or have you tried glaze mediums? You might like the latter better for it';

'>have idea for diorama
>realize it would require 16 liters if resin
Welp';

'>>92607859
Do i need distilled water to make airbrush cleaner like this guy here https://youtu.be/V8q1sD8tSes?si=9xmzPhygM3knsqcl or just normal tap water is fine?';

'>>92605893
>Is acrylic primer good
No, you want lacquer for primer, not that shit';

'I just bought this changeable head brush. What do i think about it?';

'>>92608079
Does your tap water have sediment?';

'>>92608139
I don't know, maybe?';

'>>92608145
Well maybe put on your big boy pants and figure it the fuck out.';

'>>92608164
How should i know though? Usually to clean airbrush i just mix window cleaner with water without IPA or glycerol but its like not very effective';

'>>92608174
does your water have particles of shit floating in it?';

'>>92605418
Must have been something wrong with it. I've had some for years that didn't rust.';

'>>92608220
Yeah';

'>>92608263
Than you should use distilled water...';

'>>92608220
>>92608263
What the.. is this a real thing outside of like, literal 3rd world countries?';

'>>92607689
mix in between colors. Blending two very different colours together is a lot harder than doing it in smaller steps. Another trick that applies regardless of the method is to not apply the paint such that there's a solid boundary. Break it up.';

'>>92608289
You know the white buildup around your drains and faucets? That's what that stuff is.';

'>>92598748
Flow improver is a retarder my guy.';

'>>92608174
>Windowcleaner
Wut';

'>>92608325
Oh, I thought you meant actual dirt floating in it. Either way, I don't have that, but isn't there decalcifier for that?';

'>>92608334
huh?';

'>>92608289
Even in 1st world it can happen pretty easily depending on the age of the building and pipes.';

'>>92608347
dirt is definitely a possibility';

'>>92607859
Nta but I've noticed people who know how to sculpt are either terrible or great at painting, no middle ground. Could you post the mini for the competition you're painting?';

'>>92607873
>epaulette all wrong';

'>>92608373
I've been posting my progress in the last threads
I wouldn't call myself neither great or terrible, just okay I guess?';

'>>92608289
>What the.. is this a real thing outside of like, literal 3rd world countries?
Water tables are different. I used to live in Hanford-Lemoore in California, there's a huge pocket of sulfur under the town and it's contaminated the entire aquifer. My current town has a pretty high level of dissolved lime. Small amounts of dirt is pretty common too, and iron pipes can dump a bit of rust. You should also PH test your water sometime, it can really change how certain media react.

>>92608347
Water softeners just dump even more electrolytes into the water, they don't really scrub it out.

>>92608467
Well now we know what model that Explosive Rat Pope Hat came from.';

'>>92603652
I'll try this on a primaris. Curious if it will look good.';

'>>92608117
>changeable head brush
What the fuck even is this now?';

'>>92608687
>Explosive Rat Pope Hat
The what now';

'Working with metal minis, have an airbrush I've been using for the process. And one thing I've noticed is that my paint is coming off insanely easy. Even handling the minis 24 hours after doing a coat will pull the entire paint off on edges or spikes, even with a primer + base coat + an additional coat.

Is there a reason for this? I'm washing the metal, so it's not mold release. I'm using Pro Acryl white primer, then some cheap Creatix paint that was given to me with the airbrush, as well as Liquitex ink. I'm handling the minis with gloves, though they're orange nitrile gloves since I already had them around.';

'Anyone here have experience with forced perspective?
I have a 1:144 scale stuka here, but online I can find exactly 2 divebombing/plane forced perspective dioramas, and they look kinda shit.';

'>>92608746
For metal minis it's almost mandatory using a 'big boy primer' such as rattle cans or lacquer primers';

'>>92608715
Some Anon posted a unit of Bomb Rats earlier this month. Apparently Anon's friend was pissed that the leader of the rats didn't have a candle hat like the rest, so Anon made a huge pope hat for it out of a random unknown bit in his box. Turns out it was that goblin's horn by the look of things. Sadly I didn't save the pic';

'>>92608792
God I hope he didn't butcher an oop hobgoblin for a shitty kitbash';

'>>92608755
Quick mock up done in blender.
Plane wingspan 15m IRL, reduced to 10cm here. Typical bomb release height IRL 400ish m (I took a rather liberal 300m) reduced here to 20cm (at the scale of the plane, 1:144, it would be around 2m). Train wagons IRL 9m a piece, first reduced to 6cm for the 1:144 scale, then used some basic trigonometry to determine new length to keep angular diameter the same from the POV of the plane at the reduced height, resulting in train wagons of around 6mm.

I figured I'd box the thing to force the forced perspective. Considering pouring it in resin to allow for cloud effects and an easier time distorting the luminesence of the train.';

'>>92608755
>>92608846
Wtf is this';

'>>92608856
I don't know how to explain it more clearly than I already have.';

'>>92608806
If you've been around for a while you're gonna have some weird and technically possibly valuable OOP shit in your bits box. If it hasn't been attached to the parent model since 2003 it's not butchering.
Plus it's far better to use one of those bits for a silly Rat Pope Hat than squirrel it away in a shoebox somewhere.

>>92608856
Anon is trying to work out the geometry for mounting a model of a Stuka so it looks like it's dive-bombing something. But in forced-perspective, which means making the base in a much different scale than the model.';

'>>92608755
>>92608846
I would kindly direct you towards the scale model general on /toy/, they're more suited to offering practical advice for vehicle diorama building of this sort than the airbrush-fearing, £18 pot of fake mud and prepainted grass tuft fuckwits here are.';

'>>92608117
impractical
you fell for the meme';

'>>92608920
Why?';

'>>92608881
Will do, thx';

'>>92608325
>That's what that stuff is.
No, it literally is not. Minerals in tap water are in suspension while sediments - by definition - settle out of their medium.

>>92608746
Two things. First, I've observed that metal minis tend to be much more sensitive to surface contamination than plastic minis. I would recommend soaking them in lacquer thinner or acetone with a scrub from a fine stiff brush and then taking great care to not get any sort of oil or grease on them before priming them. Second, acrylic primers are just plain ass with metal minis. Full stop. Buy some Mr Hobby 1500 (NOT the 500 or even the 1000) and some Mr. Hobby leveling thinner and never look back.; if you ever want to get it off (and you will; just like working with any other new substances in your airbrush you'll fuck up a few of them while you're figuring out your ratios and air pressure and technique) you can just hit it with an aggressive solvent. Lacquer thinner, acetone, brake cleaner, etc. will all strip the lacquer fast while leaving the mini underneath entirely unscathed. This is a bit of a mixed blessing, however, because lacquer primer isn't easy to remove without being aggressive and the best things to remove lacquer primer can also do a number on substances like CA glue, green/blue stuff, etc. as well as any plastic or resin bits you've attached to your metal model.

>>92608846
I'm seconding the advice of that other anon to go check out /toy/. That's the better thread for scale modeling, terrain and dioramas.';

'>>92608846
>from the POV of the plane
This doesn't sound right. You need to calculate the angles from where you expect the viewer's eye to be because you're forcing the perspective on them.';

'>>92609000
>>92608687
>>92608347
>>92608325
But why do i need distilled water for airbrush cleaner mixed anyway?';

'>>92608936
>want to use another brush for this or that detail
>stop
>remove cap
>put new cap
>paint detail
>remove cap again
>put the previous cap
>???

vs

>pick one brush
>pick another brush

also availability, if you want new brushes you can buy like a thousand different brands, qualities and prices, with those caps you have one brand with whatever quality and options they have

I see no advantage at all compared to regular brushes';

'>>92602035
>>92602065
that blotch of white paint ruins the cristal bubble and partly obscures the model';

'>>92609040
Anon are you okay?';

'>>92603581
Man those markings are so good, Real SOVL. Got anymore of these ironjawz?';

'>>92609010
You don't necessarily need it. Some tapwater can cause buildup pretty quick and it'll be hard to remove without damaging your seals.
But distilled water is purified by boiling it and recondensing it from steam. It won't have algae or random minerals in it, it won't have dirt, it doesn't have chemicals added to kill off pathogens because the boiling already did that. It's cheap most places and it makes your job easier. If you're feeling really flush plump for deionized, shit keeps literally forever and has a fixed PH.';

'>>92608881
Nta, /smg/ is almost dead, I never understood why we are two different threads anway, there is such a huge overlap in what we do, especially when you consider that there are people who paint 40k but never play, and people who paint scales to play non fantasy setting TTG.';

'>>92609209
>check store
>1 buck for 500ml
hmm not cheap enough';

'>>92605965
I really felt an airbrush would have helped me while painting my dread, and it took a bit, but in the end it felt good having finished it wit brushes only.';

'>>92609040
>whats a reflection';

'Anyone watch Erik Swinson? Never hear people mention him, though he's pretty good. Guy does 3 hour long painting streams and just dropped one on space marine faces.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cHkrQg2-TJ8';

'is it safe to use this stuff directly on top of acrylics? I know usually you put a gloss varnish in between for improving flow, but it's for a dirty robot anyway, so I'm not too worried about some messiness. (Also don't want to put too many coats of varnish over the metals)';

'>>92609420
>3 hour long painting streams
Nigga no one got time for this shit';

'>>92609420
I am so done with influencers I have gone full circle and back to using forum posts and books (as pdfs from the highsea, ofcourse, if only figopedia was scanned)';

'>>92609433
If you're not clear coat it will melt your plastic. The mr hobby weathering color is better';

'>>92609433
I have always wanted to hold a lighter to one of these. Just to see.';

'>>92609435
I got time while I'm painting.';

'>>92609445
I dunno if a Gandalf lookalike with 5k subs counts as an influencer.';

'>>92609420
There is absolutely no need for any painting video to be 3 hours long';

'>>92609460
I hit a bong while i'm painting';

'Help a colorblind brother out, which works better, dark spines the same color as their little scaly bits, or bony colored spines?';

'>>92609447
ah, thanks for the warning, glad I asked then. I'll see if my LGS has mr hobby stuff

>>92609449
anon, don't give me ideas...';

'>>92609562
I like the dark ones way more, the bright ones are too distracting';

'>>92608806
>>92608792
Nah the hat is milliput. It was going to be a trumpet for a shitty doot doot necron meme but it came out bad so i threw it in the bit box. Now its a hat.';

'>>92609601

thanks anon';

'>>92609562
Bone color doesn't really return anywhere else. I'd sooner make them red or yellow.';

'>>92608467
Very neat sculpt and very nice paintjob. Would love an army of such quality.';

'>>92609449
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0jCCP6rUEsc
that just vapors, with the liquid still inside it may explode
do try it on camera';

'>>92609860
video is censored';

'>>92609887
>experiments made by 7 years old
>age restricted
yeah fuck you too youtube

try this one, o google 'woosh bottle'
https://youtu.be/hBwjPXi-sQs?feature=shared&t=70';

'>>92609907
cool
all we did back then was made some liquorice';

'>>92597971
Pol is what every place becomes when people are honest.';

'>>92608327
not always. basic flow improver is alcohol.';

'The left nid was speed painted using traditional acrylics, it took 10 mins and that was just the arms
the right one was done in a little over 5 mins and used speedpaints and a dry brush
for army painting is it worth the extra time each nid will take using traditional acrylics or should i just use speedpaints and drybrushing?';

'>>92610780
heres an example of a finished nid that was done the ap speedpaint + dry brush way';

'Another kopta.';

'>>92610913';

'>>92610426
no most people are infact not poltards
you say this because you need to tell yourself that youre NOT weird
this is cope';

'>>92610931
IF people could be honest irl you'd see fewer NPCs.';

'>>92608099
buy an ad';

'Nice /wip/ discussion anons, very cool
And I'm the most /pol/tard out there but let's stick to the topic.';

'>>92610780
Speedpaint troops, traditional paint centerpieces.';

'>>92610977
if we didnt hold any standards of social decorum youd see alot more people masturbating and defactating in public too
your point?';

'>>92611002
false equivalence';

'>>92609470
Hippie speedball helps when doing a ton of csm trim.';

'>>92610780
Depends on your goals and how much more you like the left.
If you much prefer the left and want to learn how to optimize the process as you paint your guys, acrylics. If you just want to have a finished army and want them all basically the same, right
Speed paints make a decent model, it's just not going to make you a better painter when all's said and done. Granted, neither are acrylics if you aren't approaching them with a mindset of WANTING to get better';

'>>92597971
/pol/ had exodus in 2013 and migrated from 4chan
the ones left here are even better at shitting other boards mainly because most are newfags
sorry for siderailing im done now
>>92610996
agreed';

'>>92609433
I have. Just don't put it onto unprimed unpainted plastic and you won't have a problem.
I've even used it as an oil wash and no issue.';

'>>92610780
I personally almost always dislike the look of speed paints. Unless it's like here.';

'>>92611151
>I dislike X unless it's well done
no shit';

'>>92601807
https://modelboatyard.com/
This might help. I found it while I was looking for some tau terrain, I think.';

'Is this good? Or too oversized?';

'I tried to recast some guard torsos from sprue goo. They take about 5 days to fully harden. It takes 3 days for the exterior to harden, so you have to leave them in the mold for 72 hours before you can take them out.';

'>>92611269
Side shot, pre-greenstuff of course';

'>>92611283
looks fine to me equator anon';

'Had to go outside to get my camera to cooperate, so I guess he's a Day Lord now, but he's done';

'>>92611151
speed paints are a tool that requires a different way of painting
i use them alot becuse their nice flow properties make the feel really good to paint with and ypu can get good results
heres a mini that i think turned out nice thats mostly speedpaints';

'>>92611272
silicon mold?';

'>>92611481
Bluestuff';

'>>9260884
>like this idea
>go to /smg/ to follow it
>autism';

'What color is flesh wash?';

'>>92611605
might be personal preference and mine has always been chestnut ink/reikland flesshade';

'>>92611605
Depends on what youmean. If you're asking about the valejo wash of that literal name, it's a fairly ruddy brown';

'>>92611494
interesting
do they even fully dry? as in if you cut into one in a couple weeks is it still soft/smelly?';

'>>92611556
>responding to a post from 14 years ago
???';

'>>92611151
this reminds me I stopped drybrushing exactly because of that texture it leaves';

'>>92611605
Nearly every brand has their own flesh wash, but they're generally a warm chestnut wash.';

'>>92611656
God I miss chestnut ink
Is there any real alternative nowadays?';

'>>92611345
I really liked this way of using of speedpaint, I might try it for my Dark Angels
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n9UjLYP_VZY';

'what is the purpose of varnishing your minis mid painting
i keep hearing about this new revolutionary painting technique but what purpose does it serve';

'>>92611656
>>92611718
>>92611847
I mean what is the actual color of flesh wash? Is it burnt umber or red + orange or orange brown since i want to make my own flesh wash. Citadel and vallejo wash are too expensive in my country $10 per bottle';

'>>92611956
It calms the nerves of some autists';

'>>92611956
Well it does lock in lower layers to make fixing fuckups easier, but mainly I think using gloss varnish makes washes flow into crevices easier. Not worth the effort if you're oil washing imo, but it may sooth your 'tism if you're particularly neurotic.';

'>>92611956
You varnish a model that is base coated with acrylics, if you're doing oil/enamel painting over top so the thinners can't get under the acrylics and lift the paint.
You'd also want to varnish gloss before you apply transparent decals to avoid silvering.
It's a smart idea to varnish as a barrier to protect your acrylic work if you're using chemicals like chipping fluids that require scrubbing with stiff brushes and water to activate.';

'>>92611783
I don’t know. But I split the bottom one last night and it’s almost fully dry. The other two are still a tiny bit squishy. Also they are lighter than the original torsos.';

'>>92611783
Also they stopped smelling after 4 days or so.';

'New thread:

>>92612208
>>92612208
>>92612208';

'>>92611822
It remains a cool idea';

'>>92611956
Protect the lower layers. Good if you're painting white and want to keep it fairly clean, or if you airbrushed inks as your base layers and you want to protect those thin layers from your later brushwork.';

'>>92609158
Thank you, but nothing else quite like then yet. The first round of Ardboyz had their sheilds removed for extra hand weapons, and didn't get the same helmet treatment.
This batch definitely makes me want to make more like them, however.';

'WIP Goatman. Working on my layering. Pretty happy with this even if the lighting doesn't really make sense in places';

'>>92611002
Incorrect, moral standards evolved in a vacuum specifically because those unhygienic habits are not commonly popular.
Only with indians do those particular norms need to be enforced, likewise the norms against predatory sexual harrassment.
Right wing views are so universally common though that leftism must be forced everywhere, it is naturally emergent only in a minority, a minority obsessed with controlling others.';